Testing and Replacing a Hot Water Expansion Tank

I’ve been on a plumbing DIY kick lately, and after recently replacing a hot water recirculating pump that had been installed incorrectly (upside-down!) by a professional plumber, I’ve been reminded that it’s never a bad idea to periodically test things inside your own house — even if they were installed by a “professional.”

Now, I don’t want to bag on all professionals. Some, and probably most, do fine work. But paying someone to do something for you isn’t necessarily a guarantee that the job’s been done right, which is why I decided today to test the pressure on the potable hot water expansion tank at our Utah house. It wasn’t showing any signs of trouble. I just felt like testing it… and I discovered that it was dead. Any normal person would be bummed. Me? I was stoked — because that meant I got to perform a plumbing project I’d never attempted, and write a new blog post about it! :)

What’s a Hot Water Expansion Tank?

Expansion TankA hot water expansion tank is a small metal tank (usually 2-5 gallons) that’s installed just “downstream” of the cold water inlet valve that feeds your residential water heater. The expansion tank’s purpose is to protect your house’s hot water system from excessive pressure, which can cause damage to fixtures, your water heater, lines, and/or fittings.

Inside, the tank has a rubber diaphragm at around the mid-point of the tank; pressurized air goes below the diaphragm in the bottom half of the tank, and water flows in and out of the top half of the tank.

To visualize how an expansion tank works, imagine that the diaphragm is actually a rubber ball like you’d find on a playground. The rubber ball is partially filled with air, so that it completely fills up the tank. When the water in your system is “stronger” than the rubber ball, it pushes against it squeezes it smaller — allowing some of the water to force its way into the tank. But when the water pressure outside the tank returns to normal, the rubber ball is once again “stronger” than the water, and shoves the water back out of the of the tank.

In plumbing terms, the air pressure below the rubber diaphragm acts as a “cushion” against water hammer shock, and allows the tank to absorb excess water pressure caused by the expansion of heated water in the system. It’s far better to have pressurized water push against the “rubber ball” inside a reinforced tank, rather than push against your pipes and fixtures… or even the inside of your water heater. Expansion tanks are very cheap insurance against potentially dangerous and expensive damage to your plumbing. If you don’t have an expansion tank in your system, you really should get one.

Expansion tanks will normally wear out after anywhere from 5-10 years. To extend their service life as much as possible, it’s vitally important to match your expansion tank’s air pressure to your house’s water pressure.

Why Expansion Tank Pressure Is So Important

In order to for the shoving match between the water and the rubber diaphragm to work ideally, the air pressure below diaphragm the tank before it gets squeezed should be the same as the normal water pressure in your system. That air pressure is called the “pre-charge.”

Having the tank’s pre-charge set lower than the water pressure will allow expanding water to shove its way into the tank more often it should, which wears out the diaphragm prematurely. But having the tank’s pre-charge higher than the water pressure will prevent the expansion tank from allowing water into the tank, thereby rendering the tank pointless. It could also rupture the rubber diaphragm since it’s not designed to be inflated beyond 80 psi.

Most expansion tanks are set to a pre-charge of 20 psi when they leave the factory, while the majority of residential water systems have significantly higher water pressure than that. This means that whoever installed your tank was supposed to manually increase the  tank’s pre-charge to match the water pressure at the time of install.

But did they?

The only way to be sure is to test it yourself. Follow the simple test method below to make sure your installer set your expansion tank’s pre-charge properly, and verify that your tank is still operating as it should. If it’s not, you can also follow the instructions in this post to replace your expansion tank yourself. Don’t worry — it’s really easy.

 Tools You’ll Need

To test the water pressure in your house, I recommend using something like a Pasco 1431 or a Rainbird P2A water test gauge. It simply attaches to your system anywhere that a hose would connect and tells you the water pressure at the fixture. Because I didn’t want to wait for Amazon, I picked up the Pasco at a local plumbing supply store for $12. It’s worth having one of these in your toolbox for a number of projects.

To test the pre-charge of your expansion tank, all you need is a standard tire pressure gauge. If you don’t already have one in your car’s glove box, you really should. I used a standard dial type tire pressure gauge (about $9 from any local auto parts store). My tire gauge has a bleeder valve, which makes removing excess pressure really easy.

How to Check Your Water Pressure

First, find the pressure of the water going into your water heater by attaching the water pressure gauge to your water heater’s drain valve at the bottom of the tank (the same place you’d attach a hose when you flush your water heater). Open the drain valve all the way. You don’t need to shut off any other valves or do anything else. Take note of the water pressure. Mine at the Utah house is 60 psi:

Testing residential water pressure with simple and cheap gauge

Testing residential water pressure with simple and cheap gauge

How to Check Your Expansion Tank Pre-Charge

Before checking the pre-charge on your tank, try this “quick and dirty” test to see if there’s any water in the tank: knock a few times on the side of the tank with your knuckles. You should hear the hollow “tink tink tink” noise of a metal tank that’s mostly full of air, rather than the “thud thud thud” noise of a metal tank that’s full of water. If your tank sounds full of water, then it’s possible that:

  • the pre-charge is set too low, which is allowing the water pressure to “defeat” the diaphragm too easily and let too much water into the tank, or
  • the diaphragm has ruptured or otherwise failed, so there’s nothing to keep the water out.

If you think your expansion tank may be full of water, unscrew the plastic cover on the bottom of the tank that exposes the Schrader valve, then and briefly press in on the valve’s pin (like you would to let air out of a tire). If water comes out of the valve, then the diaphragm in your tank is ruptured, and the tank needs to be replaced. If only air comes out,  continue with the test procedures below, but don’t attach your tire pressure gauge just yet!

Before you can accurately check the pre-charge (the pressure inside the rubber diaphragm in your expansion tank), you first need to relieve the pressure that’s pushing against the diaphragm from your house’s water system. Imagine, for example, that you want to check the air pressure of a yoga ball. But if you test the pressure while still sitting on the ball, you’ll get a higher number than you would if you checked the pressure while standing next to the ball. So to get rid of the pressure from your water system “sitting” on your expansion tank’s rubber “yoga ball,” do the following:

1. Shut off the cold water valve that feeds your water heater (it should be just “upstream” of your expansion tank). With these lever types, the valve is open when it’s parallel to the line, and closed when its perpendicular. This photo shows it closed:

Cold water valve turned off

Cold water valve turned off

2. Turn on a hot water fixture that’s closest to your water heater, such as a hot faucet. Keep it open throughout this procedure.

3. Turn the knob on your water heater to the PILOT position, to prevent the burner from firing:

Gas valve set to PILOT

Gas valve set to PILOT

4. If you have a hot water recirculating pump, turn it off and close the valve on the return line:

Turn off the recirculating pump and close the return valve

Turn off the recirculating pump and close the return valve

5. Connect a drain hose to the drain valve of your water heater (the same valve where you tested the water pressure), and open the valve all the way. Do a slow count to 10, then close the valve. That should remove enough water from the system to relieve any water pressure that’s pressing against the rubber diaphragm inside the expansion tank.

Partially drain your water heater to relieve water pressure

Partially drain your water heater to relieve water pressure

With the water pressure relieved, you can now get an accurate reading from your tank. Expose the Schrader valve (same valve you’d find on a bike or car tire) on the bottom of the expansion tank (you may have to unscrew a plastic cap) and firmly press your tire pressure gauge against the valve to get a reading. If the resulting pressure is higher than your house’s water pressure, then take some air pressure out of the expansion tank a little at a time by pressing in on the pin inside the valve (exactly as you would when lowering the pressure in your car’s tires). If the expansion tank’s pressure is lower than your house’s water pressure, you’ll need to fill the tank to the matching pressure, using the same type of air compressor you’d use to re-inflate your car’s tires.

If your pre-charge was set properly or only needed a minor pressure adjustment, then HOORAY! You’re good to go.

But, if you get no pressure reading from your tank (which is what happened to me today), then that probably means the diaphragm in your tank has ruptured or otherwise failed, meaning your expansion tank needs to be replaced. Here was my zero pressure reading today:

No pressure from hot water expansion tank

No pressure from hot water expansion tank

Replacing a Potable Hot Water Expansion Tank

If you’ve determined your expansion tank is bad, or it’s old enough that you just want to replace it anyway, installing a new one is really easy — especially if you’ve already followed the above steps to test the pre-charge (meaning you’ve already relieved pressure from the line and closed all the appropriate valves).

Generally, you should replace the old expansion tank with a new one of the same size. Going bigger is fine — going smaller is not. Most water heaters that are 50 gallons or smaller should use a 2 gallon expansion tank, such as an Amtrol ST-5 or a Watts PLT-5. But if you have two water heaters hooked together, or a water heater that’s larger than 50 gallons, go for a 4.4 gallon expansion tank like the Amtrol ST-12 or Watts PLT-12. Since I have two 40 gallon water heaters that are connected in series (for a total of 80 gallons in the zone), I picked up a Watts PLT-12 at a local plumbing supply store for $50, which is about what they sell for on Amazon. You can also find them at Home Depot, Lowes, or your local hardware store. The original installing plumber had actually used the smaller tank size in this house, so I figured this was the right time to correct that mistake and go one size bigger. I’m not sure the smaller size contributed to the failure of the tank, but the price difference between the two sizes is minor, so go for the larger one if you can.

After bringing the new tank home, I first made sure all the proper valves were closed and pressure relieved from the system, following all the above steps required to test the expansion tank pressure — including turning the gas valves to PILOT and partially draining the tank.

Next, I removed one side of the support strap that was helping to keep the old tank in place (it was screwed into the ductwork overhead). Your unit may not have a support strap (it only needs one if the tank is installed horizontally).

Remove old support strap

Remove old support strap

Third, I placed a towel on top of the water heater, underneath where the expansion tank connected to the cold water line. Since the failed tank is likely full of water, be ready for it to spill.

Fourth, unscrew the tank from the threaded fitting in the line. You may be able to get enough leverage on the tank to unscrew it without any tools, but channel locks will come in handy if you can’t. Here’s the fitting with the tank removed:

Fitting where the expansion tank connects

Fitting where the expansion tank connects

Here’s a shot of my old Amtrol tank (blue) next to my new Watts tank (white). Both manufacturers make quality tanks right here in the USA. I simply picked the Watts tank because it happened to be in stock.

Old Amtrol tank next to the new Watts tank

Old Amtrol tank next to the new Watts tank

As mentioned earlier, all new expansion tanks come from the factory with some amount of pressure in the diaphragm , meaning the diaphragm will be inflated enough so that reaches the opening of the tank. On a functioning tank with pressure in the diaphragm, you should be able to stick your finger through the top and touch it.

However, when I inspected my old tank, I couldn’t feel the rubber diaphragm through the opening. That means it had indeed failed, as I suspected. I stuck my phone’s camera into the hole to get a peek at the failed diaphragm deep inside the tank:

Failed diaphragm inside an expansion tank

Failed diaphragm inside an expansion tank

Even though the new tank already had some amount of pre-charge from the factory, it’s still important to set the correct pre-charge pressure in the new tank before installing it and allowing water pressure to push against the rubber diaphragm. Again, even if your yoga ball was partially inflated when you bought it, you still wouldn’t try to inflate it all the way while you’re sitting on it, would you?

Any type of air compressor that you’d use to fill your car’s tires will work to set the proper pressure in your expansion tank. I used a next-door neighbor’s compressor (it was easiest to take my tank to him, rather than bring his compressor to me). First, I tested the initial pressure of the new tank, and it was exactly 20 psi, as stated on the box:

Watts expansion tank initial pressure was exactly 20 psi

Watts expansion tank initial pressure was exactly 20 psi

It didn’t take long to add some air and take the pressure to 60 psi:

Adding air to the expansion tank with a compressor

Adding air to the expansion tank with a compressor

Expansion tank pressure set to match system water pressure

Expansion tank pressure set to match system water pressure

Before installing the new tank, I added some Teflon tape to the male threads:

Add Teflon tape to male threads to ensure a good seal

Add Teflon tape to male threads to ensure a good seal

Then I installed the new tank by slowly twisting it into place, and tightened it down with channel locks:

Tightening the new tank into place

Tightening the new tank into place

Finally, I tested for leaks by slowly turning the cold water inlet valve back on:

Cold water inlet valve opened to test for leaks

Cold water inlet valve opened to test for leaks

No leaks! I secured the new tank with the existing metal strap that had been supporting the old tank. If the tank is installed vertically (either above or below a line), you don’t need any additional support. However, if installed horizontally, you’ll need support straps to help hold the weight of the tank when it’s partially full of water.

Securing the new tank

Securing the new tank

After making sure the tank was securely in place, I turned my gas valve back to ON, turned on my recirculating pump and opened the return line valve.

Now, my system is once again protected against potential damage from thermal expansion and water hammer. I only spent $50 on the new tank, $9 on the water pressure gauge (which I’ll reuse often), and used a tire gauge I already had. The entire process, including the testing, took less than 30 minutes. I promise it’s something you can do, even if you’re not particularly handy.

But this important piece of safety equipment in your house can’t work properly if it’s not set properly, and if it’s not tested regularly. I was surprised today when I discovered mine had failed, and glad that the fix was inexpensive and straightforward. I’ve now added “Check expansion tank pressure” to my home maintenance schedule and plan to do it every six months (it’s easy to do when you’re flushing your tank and checking your anode), and suggest you do the same.

As always, I welcome your comments and questions below!

Special thanks to BJ Plumbing Supply in Orem, UT for their expert advice on tackling this project, and for always providing the parts I need at a good price.



Leave a Reply

  1. I had an expansion tank installed with my new water heater, with-in 2 months my water bill trippled. My water meter was continously fluctuating, after several visits by the plummer it was determined the expansion tank was causing the problem. The plummer removed the tank and my water bill went to normal. Could this problem have been caused by a faulty Expansioon tank? Have you ever heard of a situation like this?

    • Unless the “problem” was a water leak, I don’t see how an expansion tank could cause a bill to increase at all. When an expansion tank fails, the bladder ruptures and the tank simply fills with water, but that doesn’t create any additional demand or water use. I’d be curious to know exactly what your plumber claimed the problem was. Now, if you had a pressure tank (which is different than an expansion tank) that was increasing the water pressure to the fixtures in your house, then yes – that will increase water usage because more water is flowing through your fixtures when they are open. Although that’s not normally a “faulty” pressure tank, but simply a need to adjust the pressure down so that you balance pressure with usage.

  2. Hi,

    my husband replaced the expansion tank and when we turn on the heat for the house, there is this noise that sound like a microwave is running. Is that normal? Will this noise go away.

    Thank you

  3. I’m replacing a 40 gallon water heater with a 50 gallon. There is no expansion tank currently. I’ve bought the Watts plt-12 (4.5 gallon) expansion tank. Is this too big? Should I use the 2 gallon model? Thanks!

  4. Thanks, best blog on expansion tanks. However, I don’t agree with your “yoga ball theory” that sitting on it will yield a higher pressure. If that were true then filling my car tires with 35 psi, before I put them on my car would yield a much higher pressure – but I know that’s not true.

    • Hi, Ken. Thanks for your comment! You’re forgetting about sidewalls on your car tires, which are rigid and help support downward pressure and keep the shape of the tire intact, and therefore the volume of the air cavity in the tire more constant. A yoga ball has no sidewalls. Nor does a balloon, which is why you can easily pop a balloon by sitting on it (decreasing the volume and increasing the pressure to the point of rupture). Google “Boyle’s Law” for a discussion of how volume changes affect the pressure of gasses (like air). Or, you can test emperically. Your pressure gauge when testing your expansion tank will read higher when your house’s water pressure is squeezing the air bladder in the tank vs. if you close the feed valve and relieve the water pressure briefly via the TPR valve or the drain. A proper pre-charge pressure will make this change more noticeable. If set too high, it would prevent water from entering the tank. Give it a shot and see!

  5. Hi Steve,
    My husband replaced our old expansion tank to a new one 2 days ago due to leaking. The water was hot but got warm after about 10 minutes right after he replaced the tank. However since yesterday there was no hot water at all. When he shut off the expansion tank and run the hot water, we get hot water but when he turned it back on we get cold water. Also the sound of the circulator pump was loud when he turned on the tank . We couldn’t figure out what’s the problem. Do you know what happened? Please help, thanks!

      • Steve, the plumber who installed and removed my exspansion told me the water pressure on the bladder in the tank was expanding and deflating causing the water pressure in the line fluctuate with forward and reverse pressure to cause the water meter to spin forward and backward. The meter at the main turnoff valve was in fact spinning forward and backwards causing the meter to record a constant use of water. Once removed the meter immediately registered the correct use of water. Regardless of what the purpose of installing a pressure tank. I believe it’s a ploy to make money for the water company thereby making money for the city. We have been using water heaters for 70+ years and never had a problem. This is my belief.

        • Hi, Sam! Thanks for your comment. Your problem can be easily fixed with a check valve. I’ve got a swing check valve on my 1 inch line just “upstream” from the main water shutoff into the house, which prevents water from flowing back toward the street (and the meter). A check valve costs less than $5, and can be installed in less than 15 minutes. If that solution didn’t occur to your plumber in about 2.4 seconds, then you need to find yourself a better plumber. :)

          The only way your expansion tank would be able to generate enough pressure to push water back up your main and out to the meter is if your pre-charge was set WAY above your “normal” pressure, and/or your “normal” pressure from the street is extremely low.

          Again, I think your plumber is steering your wrong.

      • Hi Steve, thanks for your prompt reply. I really appreciate it. I opened the hot water faucets one at a time this morning, but the water was still cold. My husband checked the pressure of the tank and it matched our water pressure (20 psi). He thinks the problem could be the circulator pump. Because if we shut off the pump, we get hot water but if we turn on the pump we get cold water. We never had this problem before until the old expansion tank leaked and we changed the tank. Please let me know your opinion on this.
        Thanks so much for your help Steve!

        • First, 20psi is extremely low for residential water pressure. If you’re on a well, you should look into increasing your pump pressure. If on city water, call and complain. You should be above 40psi, ideally at around 60psi. At that low pressure, it’s possible your recirc pump is pushing harder than your base water pressure! Check to make sure that the recirc pump is pumping in the right direction (pulling from the house and pushing toward the tank). You should have a check valve between the recirc pump and the tank, to ensure water only flows the correct way. Make sure you don’t have any check valves on the cold side between the water tank and the expansion tank, but you can (and probably should) have one on the cold water feed right as it comes out of the wall. Order of components from the wall to the tank on the cold side should be: check valve, shut-off valve, expansion tank, hot water tank. Also, are you checking your expansion tank pressure with the water shut off and pressure drained from the hot tank?

  6. All of a sudden tonight my potable water expansion tank is rattling/vibrating every two minutes then it stops after about ten seconds. What is going on and how do I make it stop?

  7. Greetings. My house is 16 years old. I had the original gas water heater tank replaced about one year ago. It is 75 gal. due to a spa bath tub. I did not have the original expansion tank replaced because the plumber stated it still worked (by releasing air from the stem). I don’t know if they messed with the pressure when they replaced the WH. One year later, periodically there are vibrations coming from the pipes just above the expansion tank. This has occurred in the middle of the night when no water has been run for several hours. It lasts for about ten minutes then goes away. What to you think? Many thanks in advance.

    • Do you have a pressure gauge on the system? I’d be interested to see if those noises correlate to increased pressure. If so, then I’d guess your pressure is set wrong in the tank. And the pressure was probably never set right by the plumber… they almost never are. :)

  8. Pingback: How to Replace Your Water Heater | Steve Jenkins' Blog

  9. Thank you great explanation. I am replacing my water heater and had a few questions about the expansion tank which you answered.

  10. Steve: thank you for the brilliant details and information. In your photo titled “Partially drain your water heater to relieve water pressure” above, there is a white hose end which seems to lead to an in ground drain. What is that? I ask because my water heater in the recently purchased house has a solid pipe with an open end to the floor, but the drain is 3 ft away so the previous owner had a small bucket under the exposed pipe end which occasionally releases water into the bucket which I then check and drain as needed. I thought perhaps the expansion tank was shot but the knuckle test clearly seems to indicate that the upper portion is filled with water and the lower half of the tank has air (though the expansion tank sits vertically above the water heater with the pipe connecting from the bottom. Thank you for your time and kind assistance.

  11. Wow! I work in industrial maintenance. I at times write “How to” on the job. This is by far one of the most comprehensive DIY explanations I have seen on the internet, ever. It is how I try to make any set of instructions I put out. I am very familiar with thermal expansion and the tanks used to address the issue. Clear and informative with lots of pictures…….great.

  12. if my expansion tank is bad,and I check my water pressure at the water heater like you’ve shown,wont that pressure reading include existing”thermal expansion”? I would think that is not the reading I would want to set my new tank pressure too. What am I missing?

    • If it’s bad, the tank will actually leak water from the valve (assume the valve is pointed down when you test it… and ideally, it should be). Once you’ve determined the tank isn’t leaking water (meaning it’s almost certainly good), just follow the steps in this article to test: shut off the flow into the tank, relieve some pressure from the tank with a partial drain, and then test the pre-charge pressure on the tank! :)

  13. We just replaced the expansion tank, but when we went to test the water pressure from the drain valve on the water tank, no water is coming out. We have water running in the house and everything else seems fine, but not sure how to test the water pressure if nothing is coming out of the drain valve on the water tank.

    • Hi, Kiley. You can test your water pressure from any faucet attached to your house (including an outdoor hose-bib) with that pressure gauge. However, as you probably suspect, you may have something blocking your drain valve on your water heater.

      If you put a bucket under the water heater drain and open the drain valve, nothing is coming out?

      • The relief valve when flipped on does release water. But the drain faucet does not release more than a hot trickle.

        • Then yes – something is clogging your drain valve. If it hasn’t been flushed in a while (see my post on flushing water heaters), sediment and gunk can do that.

          On a day when you have the time to do so, try clearing the blockage by: 1) turn the gas to pilot, 2) attach a drain hose to your drain valve, 3) shut off the cold water inlet valve, 4) open a hot water faucet somewhere on the system to prevent vacuum, 5) turn off your recirc pump (if you have one), 6) open the drain valve (even if it’s just a trickle), 7) open the relief valve all the way until the water in the tank drops to the point where it doesn’t drain from it any more, then close the relief valve, 8) wait a while until the tank drains — if you can wait a few hours, that’s great, 9) open the cold water inlet valve in short bursts to see if you can swish water around in the bottom and clear the blockage.

          Another idea is that if you can turn the gas valve to pilot and wait long enough for the water in the tank to cool (overnight is preferable), attach a hose to the drain valve, open the valve, and blow in the other end of the hose (a short hose works best). You might be able to blow the sediment back into the tank, where it will disperse and drain easier. But be VERY careful with this method. Make sure the water has cooled off, of you’ll burn yourself! :)

  14. I recently replace the water pressure tank on my rural water system in the house, (the old ones bladder had failed). Now the pressure is more consant however i have noticed that when the hot water is on it wil get to a certain point the water flow will stop completly, wait a few seconds and then it starts again with now problems. I’m guessing this has something to do with the start stop pressures on the swtich, but not understanding completely what to next.


  15. This was an awesome guide! Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge! I have an eighty gallon tank with an expansion tank size of 2.1 gallons. Should this be replaced with a larger tank? The house is new and still under warranty. Any help appreciated. Thanks again.

  16. Steve, Thanks for posting this, it has GREAT information!

    We just bought a new house, and in the morning or after work, when I first turn on a water faucet I get a big rush of water for a fraction of a second. I also noticed that the water heater’s pressure relief valve is dripping most of the time. This lead me to get a pressure gauge, and do some testing. I found that when we come back from work the pressure is 150PSI!! As soon as we turn on a faucet for even a few seconds, the pressure drops back down to about 45-50PSI. This is a clear indication that we have a check valve and the expansion tank has failed.

    This has actually resulted in our water heater dying and needing to be replaced, since it isn’t supposed to be sitting at 150PSI all day, so this very simple check could save people HUNDREDS in repairs if they don’t!!

  17. Thank you very much for the clear details! We are getting ready to buy a new water heater, a 40 gallon gas water heater (not sure what to buy yet!) The plumber says, we do not need an expansion tank. I thought all water heaters do need an expansion tank. He said there was something that my previous installation had that should suffice in place of an expansion tank! Not sure what that might be! Do you know what he is referring to? Thanks! Theresa

    • Hmm… I’d be very interested to know what he says is taking the place of the expansion tank. It’s very cheap insurance against major plumbing damage, and I can’t think of anything off-hand that can truly taking its place.

  18. Additionally, there was no expansion tank when our previous one was installed about 10-12 years ago, a direct vent A.O.Smith. Thanks again!

  19. Steve,

    Thank you for this comprehensive page! I have some questions for you: the TnP pipe on my hot water heater has been dripping since we’ve turned it on a couple of weeks ago. Additionally, our gas boiler is also dripping from the backflow pipe when both are running. The two lines where the leaks are occurring are connected directly and indirectly to one another. The cold lead into the hot water tank feels warm to the touch. The boiler has an expansion tank but the 40 gallon hot water heater does not. I think it could be one of two things. Either the backflow valve on the boiler needs to be replaced (what several people have told me) and/or there needs to be an additional expansion tank ( what I think as a layperson). The water pressure is within the expected range. I feel like installing an expansion tank would stop both leaks. Should each system (boiler/hot water) have their own expansion tank or would one work for both systems? I haven’t tested the pressure in the line expansion tank but i think it might be fine. Any thoughts on your end?

    • Hi, Robert. Backflow valves (or check valves, as I call them) do eventually go bad and should be inspected and replaced as needed. I’d start there with the boiler.

      Next, if your TnP valve is a few years old, it might just be time to replace it, as well.

      As for the cold water inlet on your hot water tank being warm to the touch, I had that same problem. I fixed it by putting a check valve on the cold water side of my water heater, but you need to make sure it’s installed “uptstream” of your expansion tank. If you also run a vacuum breaker valve in your setup (like I do), the check valve needs to be “downstream” of the vacuum breaker. Check this blog post (and pay particular attention to the last photo) to see how I have mine set up:


      If your current expansion tank is installed so that no check valves exist in the plumbing between the water heater and the boiler, then one large expansion tank SHOULD be able to help absorb any temporary over-pressure issues on both.

      But if you have any check valves that could prevent any flow between the boiler and the tank, your safest bet is to throw a separate expansion tank on the water heater. They are cheap insurance. :)

  20. If I follow your directions to check expansion tank pre charge and I see that it’s on the low side can I pump it up while it is still attached or must I remove it, charge it and then reinstall?

    • As long as you have the valve that lets water into the main hot water tank shut OFF (no there’s no water pressure hitting the expansion tank from the “upstream” side) and the main hot water tank is partially drained (so there’s no water pressure hitting the expansion tank from the “downstream” side), then you don’t need to remove the expansion tank to set the pre-charge pressure properly. There must be NO external pressure on the tank’s bladder from water pressure anywhere in the system while you set the pre-charge pressure.

      • Followed your great directions for replacing the expansion tank, except I cannot get the old tank off. It’s been on for 12 years. I can get a good grip on it, easy access but it won’t budge. I’m afraid of damaging the pipe, etc. Any tips. Seems simple enough.

        • Try applying some heat to the thread location. Heat gun is preferable, but light torch if you have to.

          You might also try some type of anti-seize blasting spray (check your hardware store).

          If you’re lucky, the old tank might actually have a nut-shaped collar near the base of the threads, and you can use a wrench. Just be careful to hold onto any pipes that connect to it, so you don’t pull anything else loose.

          • Thanks for the quick response. It does have a nut collar on it and I am able to get a good grip on it, it just won’t budge. I have not tried anti-seize. I did spray it last night with WD 40. Is anti seize that much different?

          • It’s slightly different, but I think your best bet is heat. If you have a butane torch, hit it for a second or two and see if that makes the metal expand enough to let go.

  21. Hi Steve.
    Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. I was able to replace my pressure tank but still have rumbling and rattling sounds from the pipes. I cannot figure out were they are coming from. I tried draining but was not successful. Please advice me.

    • Is it water hammer type rattling? You might want to check into a water hammer arrester. I installed two on my washing machine, and that fixed the last of the “popping” noises for me!