Whirlpool inverter box

A Cheap(er) Fix for Whirlpool / KitchenAid / Kenmore Refrigerator Inverter Box (W10629033 / W10133449) 13

The most popular DIY post on my blog is, by far, How to Fix a Whirlpool & KitchenAid W10219463 / 2307028 Control Board for $6. As of this post, it’s received over 430 comments; the vast majority from frustrated homeowners who went online in a last ditch effort to find a way to make their Whirlpool, or KitchenAid, or Kenmore refrigerator start working again after being told the control board they need is no longer available… and discovering that for a few dollars in parts (and some very minor soldering skills), they can fix it themselves in minutes.

Even though I’d guess that more than 95% of the fridge owners who stumbled across my article were able to fix their problem by replacing a single capacitor and relay on the main control board, there are a handful who’ve experienced some other problems, too.

In the case of a visitor named Marco, he wasn’t experiencing the systems I described in my control board post, but rather a total loss of everything: compressor, fans, and LED lights stopped working. He tried disconnecting the power and plugging it back in, and saw all the LED come on then go off again, then nothing.

This was a sure sign that the Digital Inverter Control for his fridge was fried. Other names for this same part are Inverter Box, Inverter Board, Compressor Control, or Digital Speed Control. From the outside, the inverter box looks like this:

Whirlpool inverter box

Whirlpool inverter box

On the inside, the box contains electronics that increases the output voltage to 230V, but also digitally varies the frequency of the current supplied to your refrigerator’s compressor from between 53Hz to 150Hz, which results in controlling its speed. Instead of simply turning “on” or “off” (like older fridges), digitally controlled compressors can run faster or slower depending on your fridge’s cooling needs. Of course, being a more “advanced” digital part means it’s more susceptible to failure (especially due to power surges). It also means it’s a lot more expensive to replace, if you leave it to your repairman.

To purchase a new replacement Inverter Board from Sears Direct, you’ll pay around $275. You if you shop online, you can find the same OEM inverters new for around $150, like this one on Amazon. If you’re willing to go with a used one, you might be able to find one on eBay for around $70-75. I recommend getting a new OEM unit on Amazon, so you know it will work and you can easily return it if you have any problems (or order the wrong one).

Once you have the new unit, replacing the inverter box on your refrigerator is as simple as unplugging the old one and plugging in the new one. No soldering skills are required, although you will need a screwdriver to remove the rear panel from your fridge to locate the inverter. After swapping out the inverter (Marco bought a new one), his fridge was working like new again.

Most Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Amana, Maytag, or Jenn-Air refrigerator use the same inverter board with part number W10629033 (which recently obsoleted the previous part number W10133449). That same inverter box will also replace the following part numbers in any of those brand’s fridges: 1384553, 2221559, 2223385, 2224047, 2304098, 2304175, 2306957, 2997771, AP5801669, AP4308835, AH1960495, EA1960495, PS8760019, and PS1960495.

If if your fridge is acting stone-cold dead and won’t light anything up, it might be worth taking a chance on a new inverter. Good luck, and thanks Marco for the heads up!

  • Dave

    I need a little advice regarding disconnecting the inverter from the compressor. That connection is enclosed in a black plastic cover on the inverter, which I can’t figure out how to remove. Can you give me a clue?

    • Any chance you can post a link to a photo?

      • Dave

        Sure. Let’s see if these two photos can be uploaded.

      • Dave

        I’m thinking a tool goes into the small rectangular slots at the bottom left and right. I just don’t want to force it and break the $$$ compressor.

        • Hmm… I’ve never had to remove mine, so I’m not sure HOW it comes out! Hopefully another reader who has will see this and reply. Anyone? 🙂

  • Dave

    Steve, I had great results from your Control Board post. Now I want to replace the inverter. The place where it connects to the compressor is obscured by a black plastic cover and I can’t tell how to remove it. I don’t want to force it and break something that isn’t yet broken. Is there a trick to removing that connector cover?

  • Hi, Frank. I wish I could be more help, but I don’t know much more about the inverter than I’ve shared here. I’ve never had to replace one myself, and am basing this advice on what I’ve collected from others who have. Based on your symptoms, it really does sound like the inverter, and it’s cheaper to simply try and replace it yourself (even if you’re wrong) than it would be to have a single service call.

  • Frank Macchia

    Hi Steve, thanks for your reply. Well then, I’ve replaced the inverter but still the same as before. Upon power up, the interior lights come on for a few seconds then go off and the display comes on displaying the interior temperatures. Tried the reset button but nothing improves. I replaced the main control board with a remanufactured one (upon inspecting it it shows the 220 mf cap and a relay only were replaced) and it restores the lights but nothing else. Does the other control board control the rest of the turn on sequence that the main control board starts in order for the fridge wo work fully on? Please help and reply ASAP. Thank you for all your help and support.

    • Yikes… that’s sounding like a serious issue. I’ve never tinkered with the other control board, but you’re running out of things to replace! The inverter delivers the proper power to the main control board, then the control board uses relays and capacitors to control the “downstream” components. I don’t know what else could be contributing!

      • Frank Macchia

        Hi Steve, thanks again for the reply. I have followed the limited but useful diagrams supplied and traced the wiring. FYI, the main control board supplies 115VAC to the inverter via relay contacts, then the board also supplies digital data to the inverter for speed control. I verified the presence of 115VAC to the inverter and some DC voltage on the other pins but probably missing the data. On my original main control board, I replaced the usual relay that goes bad and upon power up the interior lights do go on and then go off and stay off, the display remains on as described before but I can hear the compressor running and nothing else, there’s no cooling. It seems like the other control board has a smaller microchip that probably in conjunction with the microchip on the main control board control and regulate every aspect of the fridge’s operation. I’ve ordered the other control board, hopefully that will restore my fridge to full operation. If you have more suggestions, I’d appreciate it if you’d share it ASAP. Thank you for all your help and support, Steve.

  • Henry


    please i need help, i opened the inverter box to check any issues with it but it was fine and the issue was with the main control board. Now i cant close the gray box back as i forgot where the wires are blugged. Two wires that are confusing : first is the black and white wires , second is a ground wire. please check photo.


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