WiFi connection on iPhone 4

My Cisco Linksys E4200 DD-WRT Settings for Max Speed 680

Maximizing WiFi Speed

UPDATED Dec 21, 2016. This post is a reference post for those looking to squeeze maximum speed out of their Cisco Linksys E4200 v1 wireless router running DD-WRT. The DD-WRT build I currently recommend for this router is K2.6 30880 (by BrainSlayer).

IMPORTANT: My testing shows that DD-WRT K2.6 builds are much faster on the E4200 vs. DD-WRT K3.x builds. But if you’re still convinced you want to run a K3.x build, read this article before migrating.

Also, you can always access my partial mirror containing recommended E4200 builds at http://ddwrt.stevejenkins.com/.

Optimizing DD-WRT on the Linksys E4200 v1

The Linksys E4200 router is an excellent choice for power-users looking to squeeze the most out of their network. It uses simultaneous dual-band 2.5 and 5 GHz antennas, which allows wireless clients to connect at speeds up to 300 and 450 Mbps on each antenna, respectively. For physical connections, it boasts four Gigabit Ethernet ports for high-speed wired LAN connections and a USB 2.0 port for attaching devices such an external hard drive or printer, which makes the device accessible on the network.

The first version of the E4200 (commonly referred to as the v1) is powered by a Broadcom BCM4718 chipset running at 480MHz with 64MB of total RAM and 16MB available flash. That’s good news for router hackers, because the Broadcom chipset means it will support third-party open source firmware (such as Tomato or DD-WRT), while the 16MB of available flash means the fully-loaded “big” and “mega” versions of those firmwares (which boast all the cool features) will comfortably fit on-board with space to spare.

Unfortunately, the newer E4200 v2, which was released after the original, is powered by a Marvell CPU and chipset, which is unsupported by third party firmware, meaning the E4200 v1 is the last — and widely recognized as the best — wireless router that Linksys has produced with third-party firmware support. As of this post, they’re still available in the Linksys Home Store as refurbished units for $79.99. Hint: If you call them @ 877-959-7467 instead of ordering it online, tell them you read my blog and ask for the extra 15% discount!

If you simply unbox your E4200 and run it with the stock firmware, it’s a great router. It’s fast, easy to set up, fast, feature-rich, fast, reliable, and fast. But, it’s possible to make it even faster, more reliable, and more feature-rich by installing a current build of DD-WRT firmware.

DISCLAIMER: Following are the steps I used to get my router how I like it. You might want things another way, and that’s totally fine. If you have a router other than the E4200, v1 don’t follow these instructions. They will not work with the E4200 v2. Keep in mind that it’s possible to render your router inoperable if you install firmware that’s not specifically designed for your router or skip any steps when installing. Proceed with caution and at your own risk. It’s strongly advised that any firmware updates be made with a computer that’s connected to the router via a physical Ethernet cable. Once the firmware is loaded, I also like to mess with configuration settings via a physically connected computer, just in case I hose something in the wireless settings and can’t reconnect.

Ready? Let’s go!

1. After verifying that I had the original “v1” version of the E4200 (it just says “E4200” on the bottom, and not “E4200 v2”), I read the entire DD-WRT Wiki entry for the E4200. It’s very important that you follow those instructions when upgrading your router, especially when it comes to doing a proper 30/30/30 hard reset when required.

2. The first time you flash this router, you must use a build of the firmware that’s made specifically for the E4200, or you’ll ruin it. A DD-WRT build that’s router-specific is called a trailed build. Trailed builds contain model-specific headers that allow flashing from the router’s stock firmware, and will always have the model number of the router in the filename. The DD-WRT E4200 Wiki entry recommends using an older mini build for your first E4200 v1 flash, but you can use any trailed build that says “e4200” in the filename and you’ll be fine.

With older builds, it used to be advisable to first flash a trailed “mini” build, then go to a more full-featured build. This is no longer necessary. With the newer DD-WRT builds, you can now flash directly to a trailed build of any size supported by your router (depending on how much RAM it has), including the “mega” build on the E4200.

DD-WRT K2.6 vs. K3.x Builds on the Linksys E4200

The decision as to whether to run a K2.6 build or a K3.x build on your router is up to you. DD-WRT K3.x builds are stable enough to run, but they yield much slower WiFi and wired network speeds on the E4200, so I still recommend you run the K2.6 builds (see my head-to-head testing on the E4200).

If you’re running a K2.6 DD-WRT build on your router and want to upgrade to K3.x (even though it’s slower), it is extremely important that you first do a 30-30-30 reset when upgrading from K2.6 to K3.x. Yes, you will lose all your settings and will have to manually reconfigure everything. No, you can’t save a backup file and restore it to the newer build. Read my article about why the 30-30-30 reset is required. If you ignore it, you’ll regret it!

My current trailed build recommendation for the E4200 is the K2.6 30880 “mega” build. Yes, that’s different than what the DD-WRT wiki says, but it’s the only place where the wiki and I don’t agree. Again, never try to use any build other than a trailed build on your first flash of an E4200, or you could brick your router (meaning make it as useful “as a brick”).

The “mega” build of DD-WRT provides all available DD-WRT functions (as opposed to the smaller “standard” and “mini” builds), including the popular OpenVPN, and as a result is much larger than the mini build in size. But since the E4200 has plenty of RAM available to run this build, it’s the one I run on my E4200 router. This build will probably meet or exceed your needs, too, and so for the vast majority of users (including power-users), that’s what I recommend.

I found a decent YouTube video where a guy named Dan Carter walks through the DD-WRT firmware upgrade process on a stock E4200. He goes through pretty slowly, but if this is your first DD-WRT install, it’s not a bad idea to watch. Keep in mind the versions he installs are older than the ones I reference in this post, so use my newer filenames while you follow along with his process, and you’ll be fine.

3. As stated in the DD-WRT.com wiki entry: “WARNING AFTER installing DD_WRT, ONLY flash -nv60k builds, Flashing anything else to the router will brick it as noted above.” This means that after you’ve flashed the trailed build above, any and all subsequent flashes must be with DD-WRT firmware files containing -nv60k in the filename. This is a bit misleading, because it’s only true for the K2.6 builds. For the K3.X builds, you can flash any newer NEWD-2_K3x_mega.bin build once you have any other K3.x build on your E4200. And in every case, it’s always safe to flash a trailed build for your router at any time (even on top of a previously flashed trailed build). So, to be safe, I always flash a trailed build on my E4200.

4. Once you’ve completed your initial flash and have DD-WRT running on your router, you can always move to a different build later. Remember, for K2.6 builds, the E4200 always needs either a trailed build or a -nv60k build. If you already have a K3.x build on your E4200, you can upgrade to a trailed K3.x build or the main NEWD-2_K3.x_mega.bin build.

Also remember that it’s always safest to do another 30/30/30 reset before attempting to install a different DD-WRT build, but that it’s absolutely required when migrating from K2.6 to K3.x builds.

5. Because a large number of wireless devices in my house are Apple consumer products (iPods, iPads, iPhones, etc.), I wanted to optimize my speeds for Wireless-N devices like these. Following are the non-default settings I currently have configured on each tab and sub-tab in my router’s DD-WRT admin interface. If a setting isn’t mentioned, it’s because I’ve left it at the default. Again, your perfect settings may be different than these. I’ve arrived at these after reading through tons of discussions in the DD-WRT Forums combined with a lot of personal experimentation and testing. I also recommend reading through some of the DD-WRT Wiki Tutorials that might address some of your particular needs.

Be sure to press the “Save Settings” button at the bottom of a tab’s page before clicking to a new tab. Otherwise, you’ll lose your changes. This saves your new values, but doesn’t apply them. You’ll need to press “Apply Settings” after you’ve saved all your desired settings, after which you’ll likely need to reconnect your wireless devices.

Setup : Basic Setup

  • Router Name: Use any name you like, like “Home Gateway Router”
  • Host Name: Anything will work here, but I always use “gateway”
  • Local IP Address:
  • Subnet Mask:
  • Gateway:
  • Local DNS:
  • DHCP Server: Enable, and leave all the defaults. Also, I recommend putting in and (Google’s DNS servers) for Static DNS 1 &2 for fast DNS lookups.
  • NTP Client: Enable
  • Time Zone: Pick the appropriate one based on where you are (I picked America/Los_Angeles)
  • Server IP/Name: pool.ntp.org

Wireless : Basic Settings

I leave the Regulatory Domain stuff alone. It defaults to Regulatory Mode Off, which is how I leave it.

Because the E4200 has simultaneous antennas, the first wireless interface (wl0) runs on the 2.4 GHz band and the second (wl1) runs on the 5GHz band. I use mostly default values here for both antennas. The Wireless Network Mode you choose will depend on whether or not you have older B devices on your network. If you do, you’ll need to used “Mixed.” In most cases, however, you can set it like I do: “NG-Mixed” on wl0 and “N-Only (5GHz)” on wl1. This allows the faster N devices to access the 5GHz antenna without competition from G devices, which can drop the speed. However, some N devices only run on 2.4 GHz channels, so that’s why I configure the 2.4 antenna to support both N and G.

Note that I use the same SSID for both antennas, so devices can “hop” between them smoothly.

Depending on how many other WiFi networks exist in your area, it may be useful to tinker with manually setting channels and channel widths. If you live in a more “congested” area with lots of WiFi signals, you may want to experiment and find the channels that give you the least interference. The lower the interference, the higher your speeds. I recommend installing the free utility inSSIDer to scan for WiFi signals and help determine the best channel(s) for your area.

In my neighborhood, there’s not a lot of interference, so I’ve found I get great results using “Auto” for the Channel and Channel Width settings for the 2.5GHz (wl0) antenna. However, according to DD-WRT contributor Fractal, with the 5GHz (wl1) channel you “have to make sure that you change the channel from auto to something like 165, as auto selects a DFS channel like 36 or so, and a large portion of WiFi cards don’t operate that low in the 5Ghz band.”

So my manual settings for the wl1 (bottom) section of this tab are:

  • Wireless Channel: 149 (but you can choose any channel above 100)
  • Channel Width: 40Mhz
  • Extension Channel: lower (but upper is fine too, just choose an appropriate Wireless Channel)

If any of the options revert to “Auto” when you press Save, just change one of the other options (like Channel Width or Extension Channel) and try again. Some manual options won’t become available until you hit Save after changing another one. You may have to also Apply Settings if it continues to be stubborn.

I also set the Sensitivity Range (ACK Timing) to 0 on both antennas to turn it off. I’ve found I don’t need it, and I get more speed by doing so.

Wireless : Wireless Security

Here’s where a lot of people make the wrong choice and cost themselves speed. Set Security Mode to “WPA2 Personal” and WPA Algorithms to “AES.” Using any other settings will cost you serious speed. Choose a decent password for your WPA Shared Key.

Wireless : WL0-Advanced & WL1-Advanced

These are the advanced settings tab for both your antennas. I make the following changes to the defaults on both.

  • CTS Protection Mode: Disable (only if you have no Wireless B clients on your network)
  • Frame Burst: Enable
  • Preamble: Short
  • TX Power: (see below)
  • Afterburner: Off

Don’t be tempted to disable the WMM Support in an attempt to get more speed by disabling something. This is actually part of the Wireless-N spec, and is required for max speed.

I’ve left a discussion of TX (transmit) power for last because there’s no consensus on exactly what these should be. That’s because everyone’s “perfect” setting will be different, based on your environment. In general, you want to run at the lowest possible setting that allows the fastest connection. If your antenna’s TX power is set too low, the signal won’t be strong enough for your clients to find throughout your home or office. But if it’s too high, the signal actually overpowers and “blows out” your connection, resulting in lower speeds. The stock firmware sets both antennae at 100mW for both antennas. This seems to work fine for the 2.4GHz antenna in my setup, but I’ve noticed faster throughput on the 5GHz channel by reducing the TX power to 51mW. Some experimentation and wireless speed testing is strongly suggested to find the perfect settings for you. Start at the defaults, run a speed test, and then tinker away. Wherever you end up, I wouldn’t take the 5GHz antenna (wl1) over 71 under any circumstances (I’ve seen no improvements above that level), and I wouldn’t take the 2.4GHz antenna (wl0) over 128 (you risk damage to the device by overheating).

Services : Services

  • SSHd: Enable
  • SSH TCP Forwarding: Disable
  • Password Login: Enable
  • Telnet: Disable
  • ttraff Daemon: Disable. If you leave this enabled, you can store traffic logs, but they fill up eventually (it takes years) and might cause some wonkyness when your router runs out of flash RAM. Most people leave this Enabled, but I really don’t need it, so I shut it off.

NAT/QoS : Port Forwarding

I set up whatever port forwards I need for my network. Yours will obviously be customized for your needs.


  • UPnP Service: Enable
  • Clear port forwards at startup: Enable


A full discussion of QoS is best left to a separate blog post. For max speed in an ideal environment, QoS should be disabled. But if you have a lot of network clients competing for your bandwidth, you’ll get the highest “effective” speeds by enabling and configuring it properly. I normally have it turned off at my house, but will enable it if we have lots of people visiting with smart phones.

Administration : Management

Not much in here will affect your speeds, with the possible exception of IP Filter Settings, so just configure options to your liking. IP Filter Settings and TCP Congestion Control discussions are like holy wars in some forums. However, after reading a DD-WRT forum post in which Fractal (who is one of the lead developers working on DD-WRT) shared his experiences and preference for Westwood TCP Congestion Control, I now run Westwood on this tab.

Administration : Commands

I have some custom firewall script commands in this tab, but I discuss those in depth in a separate post.

For speed optimization, I include some commands in my router’s start-up script (which is stored in its RAM as rc_startup). I store my most current version of this startup script as a GIST, and you can always find the latest version here.

I’ve broken my optimizations into three sections: LAN adapter tweaks, wireless adapter tweaks, and tweaks to the TCP settings. I’ve added comments to my startup script (they’re fine to paste into the DD-WRT interface) to help you understand what they’re doing.

In the LAN adapter tweaks section, the ifconfig eth0 txqueuelen option is an attempt to lower what’s called buffer bloat (feel free to look up more on that yourself). The default is 1000, and some people set it as low as 1 or 2. I’ve found 5 works well on my network, but it’s something I tinker with from time to time. Play with it to see what works best on your network (but never set it to 0).

In the wireless adapter tweaks section of my script, I enable automatic wireless interference mitigation mode and noise reduction (interference mitigation mode 3) for both antennas’ networks. For many owners of this router, this can provide a dramatic improvement in wireless speeds.

In the TCP tweaks section, I propose increased values for some buffers and other TCP settings on the router, which have been shown in some cases to help users with really fast connections (100+ mbits/second) achieve max speeds. These TCP tweaks may do nothing to increase speeds on your network, but they won’t hurt anything and might help.

To create your speed-optimization startup script, copy and paste the following lines into the Command Shell text area:

Press the “Save Startup” button to save the commands to your router’s rc_startup, which will run every time the router boots.

Note a couple of things. First, the “sleep 10” line (which tells your router to wait for 10 seconds before running the next line of the script) at the top of the script is required. I’m not exactly sure why, but my testing verifies that the first line of the script is often ignored, so I included this “throw-away” command to make the script work.

Second, I’ve found that on routers like the E4200 that have dual radios (2.Ghz and 5Ghz), you can’t set the interference mitigation mode for the 2.4 Ghz antenna (eth1) via the startup script or DD-WRT’s GUI interface at all. I believe this is a bug, and I’ve reported it here. Until this bug is fixed, the eth1 interference line of the script won’t have any effect on your router. Update: it appears that as of 27805, the eth1 interference mitigation mode issue has been fixed.

If you’re using this script on a Broadcom-based router that only has a 2.4Ghz antenna, the script will work fine. Although I’d suggest commenting out the eth2 line since your router doesn’t have an eth2.

Finally, keep in mind that if you make any changes to the wireless settings (channel, channel width, etc.) after your router boots, you’ll need to manually run the wireless interference mitigation commands again to re-enable it. The easiest way to do that is to reboot your router after you’ve tweaked your wireless settings to your liking (and saved them).

That’s pretty much it! Those are the configuration changes I make from the DD-WRT defaults to achieve max speed. For most users, stop here and enjoy your fast router.

For the hardcore, or for those feeling brave, you may want to consider experimenting with overclocking your E4200.

Speed Tests

To give you an idea of the type of speeds I’m getting with my routers, I tested on three separate networks that run the Linksys E4200 using DD-WRT with above configuration tweaks. They are:

  • Our primary residence network near Seattle, WA connected via Comcast Xfinity Cable Internet with SpeedBoost (theoretical max should be 40 Mbits)
  • Our part-time residence in Provo, Utah, connected via 1 Gigabit Google Fiber. Router is used only as an access point.
  • Our cabin in East Wenatchee, WA, connected via LocalTel on the Douglas County P.U.D. fiber backbone (theoretical max = ????)

Below are some speed test results from those networks:

Wenatchee, WA – Ethernet on PC

Wenatchee, WA – WiFi on Laptop

Seattle, WA – Ethernet on PC

WiFi connection on iPhone 4

Seattle, WA – WiFi on iPhone 4

Access Point only mode in Provo, UT

Access Point only mode in Provo, UT

I welcome your feedback, including suggestions for improvement or alternate settings that work for you, in the comments below. Happy optimizing!

Other Available E4200 v1 Builds & K2.6 vs. K3.x

Currently, the only DD-WRT builds I recommend for the E4200 v1 are the “trailed” mini and K2.6 mega builds referenced above. But I often receive questions as to whether the Linux 3.x kernel builds run better on the E4200. My experience is that they do not — and in fact, DD-WRT developer Kong has confirmed to me that because the 3.x kernel requires more space than the 2.6 kernel, some of the features in the K2.6 versions were removed from the K3.x ones.

I tested it myself, and found there is a major performance drop in both wired and wireless network speeds when running the K3.x builds on the E4200. The K3.x builds might not be so bad on newer routers with faster processors and more RAM, but for now, on the Linksys E-Series routers, my recommendation mirrors Kong’s: stick with K2.6 kernel.

If you decide to try out the K3.x builds anyway (it’s easy to safely switch back with a K2.6 trailed build after a 30-30-30-reset), please read this article to understand why you must do a 30-30-30 reset before migrating.

Of course, this is open source software, so you’re free to experience and test out any builds you like… but you’re always on your own. Beta builds of DD-WRT are located at ftp://ftp.dd-wrt.com/betas/. But unless you know how to recover a bricked router, I recommend that you do not experiment with these builds until you have confirmed their stability via the DD-WRT forums, or this blog post (which I do keep updated). Builds that appear on that Beta FTP server are not tested prior to release (that’s why they’re called beta builds). I don’t provide support for DD-WRT, so if you brick or otherwise hose your router, you are on your own… and I recommend visiting the DD-WRT forums for help.

In other words, if you ignore my advice and post in the comments below that you flashed some other build and it didn’t work, I’ll reply and refer you to this paragraph in the friendliest way possible, and wish you luck. 🙂

Partial DD-WRT Mirror of Recommended Builds

Because the DD-WRT beta FTP site can sometimes be flaky, I’ve started hosting a partial mirror of the builds I recommend at http://ddwrt.stevejenkins.com/. It will always host the following files for the recommended build:

  • RECOMMENDED #1: dd-wrt.v24-XXXXX_NEWD-2_K2.6_mini-e4200.bin – the K2.6 trailed “mini” build. Perfect for a first-time flash from stock if you want to use the K2.6 kernel.
  • RECOMMENDED #2: dd-wrt.v24-XXXXX_NEWD-2_K2.6_mega-nv60k.bin – the K2.6 non-trailed “mega” build, which you should flash following the trailed mini build. Only use this if you’re already running another K2.6 DD-WRT build.
  • dd-wrt.v24-XXXXX_NEWD-2_K3.x_mega-e4200.bin – the K3.x trailed build for the E4200. Perfect for a first-time flash from stock if you want to use the K3.x kernel, but be warned that you’ll get much lower network speeds (both wired and WiFi) with a K3.x build.
  • dd-wrt.v24-XXXXX_NEWD-2_K3.x_mega.bin – the K3.x non-trailed build for the E4200, and other routers that will support it. Use only if you’re already running another K3.x DD-WRT build. Note that you’ll get much lower network speeds (both wired and WiFi) with a K3.x build.

Outdated DD-WRT Builds I Still Recommend

The only outdated DD-WRT build that I still recommend for the E4200 is Kong’s 22000++ build. It might not have all the latest features, but This it’s extremely well tested and a rock-solid version of build 22000, with the Heartbleed bug patched. I ran (and recommended) this build for a long time with much success. It’s still awesome, so I also host it on my partial mirror.

List of E4200 Router Wireless Radio Capabilities

For those who are interested, if you want to show the wireless radio capabilities of your E4200 v1 router, you can issue the “wl cap” in the Administration:Commands tab or on the command line in a telnet/ssh session. Here’s a key of the wireless capabilities reported:

  • ap: supports Access Point mode (can act as an access point)
  • sta: supports Station Mode (can act as a client to an access point)
  • wet: supports Bridged Client Mode (Wireless Ethernet Transceiver Mode)
  • led: (still researching — possibly supports flashing LED on activity)
  • wme: supports Wireless Multimedia Extensions (also known as WMM)
  • pio: supports Programmed Input/Output for data transfers
  • 802.11d: supports the IEEE 802.11d standard
  • 802.11h: supports the IEEE 802.11h standard
  • rm: (still researching)
  • cqa: (still researching)
  • mbss16: (still researching, although possibly size of Flash ROM)
  • afterburner: supports 125 High Speed/Afterburner/SpeedBooster mode
  • ampdu: supports Aggregation of MAC Protocol Data Units
  • amsdurx: supports reception (RX) of Aggregated MAC Service Data Units
  • amsdutx: supports transmission (TX) of Aggregated MAC Service Data Units
  • acktiming: adjustable Sensitivity Range/Acknowledgement Timing
  • rxchain_pwrsave: (still researching)
  • radio_pwrsave: (still researching)
  • bcm_dcs: (still researching)
  • Love that speed, I pay $99/m for up to 2mbps.

    “12Mbit fiber backbone” isn’t bandwith always calculate using mb/s not mbit ?

    • Yes – by saying “Mbit” I’m implying it’s “per second.” 🙂

  • Thanks for writing this post. I also have a e4200v1 and will try some of these suggestions. I’m using kong’s 19545 build but I heard that the latest one has functional openvpn support.

  • Imy

    Great write up.
    Can you comment on stability of the router with 20202. I see QOS is not stable which I can live without. How is the 5Ghz? as I plan to use it for media sharing over a wireless bridge.to WNDR3400(also dd-wrt)

  • HeRog2012

    Can you talk little more about Guest Wifi setup with this DD-WRT? Thanks.

  • James Petters

    QoS is critical for the router setup I need to build.. what version do you recommend as stable for that?

    • You may have luck with 20202, but if not, I’d use 18777.

    • As a follow-up, it appears they’ve fixed a number of QoS stability issues in 20801, which is now the build I recommend.

      • James Petters

        thanks for following up on this!!

  • Luis Magdaleno

    Link is down!!!!!

    • Looks like the host had some issues, so I’ve hosted the 20202 E4200 files locally. Links should work now.

  • Links are dead 🙁

  • Imy

    Installed dd-wrt(20202) on my E4200. Initially did not get good download speed within network file transfers(less than 6MB/s). After some tweaks it is not around 8-10 MB/s for 2.4G and 11-12MB/s for 5G.
    In my case if I enable Afterburners it limits the speed to 54Mbps. So I have it disabled. Also the CTS and Frame burst both Enabled for me.

    For Guest network creation, one shortcoming in dd-wrt is that it sets it only on the 5Ghz radio which is a problem as if a G radio connects it will limit it. If you know a way around to set on the 2.4Ghz let me know.

    • Imy

      Just to add one more item, I noticed quite a number of Tx errors. I am getting about 10-20 an hour if network is used. Maybe it is normal but did not find many complaints about it when I googled. No errors on the Rx. You can see under the Wireless section under wireless packet info.

      • I now recommend 20801. It seems to fix a number of issues since 20202. Give it a go and let me know if you see fewer of those initial Tx errors.

        • pwaseem

          Hi. Steve , is it safe to use 20801 as its build didnt have nv60 in the name.
          I just download 20801 mega above link

          • It’s safe to use any “trailed” build (meaning a build that has a specific model number in it, like “e4200”) on a router of the matching model. So any firmware with e4200 in the filename (even if it doesn’t have nv60 in the filename) is safe to load on the E4200 v1. That nv60 instruction applies only to regular (or “non-trailed” builds). A trailed build ALWAYS has to be done first, and then other normal (nv60) OR trailed builds can be flashed after that.

  • Imy

    Another update, errors are mainly when I reboot the router or apply changes. I am getting about 20-30 errors than and they rarely go up too much after that unless I do reboot/apply changes. I have noticed very few errors during normal operation,

  • slightly off topic but… I’ve seen people in the ddwrt forums who have hooked up wifi usb dongles into their routers. Is it possible to hook an awus036h to my e4200 without compiling new firmware. Others have done it with broadcom chipsets but i don’t know how to apply that to rt8187. I figure since my awus036h works in backtrack 5 without installing drivers, my ddwrt router should recognize it, right? btw, it would be to extend the range of my repeater.

  • Gijs

    Thanks for the article, was very useful. I do however have a problem. When I install DD-wrt on my E4200 router, the mac book air in the network starts dropping connections. It doesn’t happen with the normal firmware. The laptop with win7 and the other i-devices don’t seem to have that problem.
    Do you have any idea what that could be?

    • It could be any number of things that you can tweak in the settings. Do you have your configuration set to match mine?

      • Gijs

        For the most part I used your configuration. On the basic wireless settings I did specify the channel. there are quite some wireless signals here and they mostly were on channel 6.
        An other thing i noticed is that my 5ghz is not working. I checked it with inSSIDer and on the 5GHZ tab nothing shows, both wl0 and wl1 show up in the 2,4ghz tab. even if i set the network mode to N-only.

  • Nicolas Silber

    Hi Steve. I want to flash my E4200 in order to be able to setup VPN on the DD-WRT control panel. Does this build version 20801 that you recommend includes that function??? You said that for most users there was no need to flash again after trailed version. What I dont know is if VPN PPTP support is already on this trailed version you posted or if I need to get a MEGA or BIG version. Thank you very much for your dedication!


  • Nicolas Silber

    Also wanted to ask you if you heard abt the Kong 20780M kingkong-nv60k-broadcom

    Is this Kingkong the best version to put????

  • Maikel

    Hi Steve, thanx for you post but i have some troubles it seems like my router is blocking all internal rpd trafic, i have searched on the internet but could it be caused that i upgraded my firmware from 17990 to 20801 that causes this? upnp works fine but manual redirects are not working.

    hopefully you can help me

    • I doubt the firmware update alone caused the issue… but my recommendation is to post in the 20801 thread on the DD-WRT Forums and see if anyone else has experienced it.

  • Nicolas SIlber

    Hi Steve

    I want to flash my E4200 in order to be able to setup VPN on the DD-WRT control panel.


    The only reason I want to flash my router is because is Because I want to share the VPN PPTP connection from my Router CISCO E4200.

    I found lots of different builds in many sites including dd-wrt official site but I dont know which is the most updated one. All I know is that first I need to flash with the MINI and then with the BIG or MEGA. But I dont know which ones are the most updated ones.

    I also know there is a new flash called Kong 20780M kingkong-nv60k-broadcom
    But dont know if its the best one.

    Thank you very much for your dedication!

    • Hi, Nicolas. I don’t use OpenVPN (I actually have a separate dedicated VPN server on my network), so I haven’t tested it personally, but others in the DD-WRT Forums have reported it as working in this build.

  • Nicolas SIlber

    Steve..one last thing…
    In the Peack Thread it says:

    In this post you are suggesting to install the following file as the initial flash:

    This is the build 20801.

    But the version that appears in wiki: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Linksys_E4200 is this one:


    So which of them should I choose?? It seems your file is different than the one that appears in wiki. Peacock thread suggest me to use wiki’s but I do really like your blog and it seems you know a lot. Thats why I was confused.

    Thank you for your time
    Best Regards

    • Hi, Nicolas. I totally understand your concern, and it’s always good to be careful when trying something out for the first time. 🙂

      The “peacock” thread is correct in that the FIRST time you flash this router, you MUST use a “trailed” build — meaning a build that has the model number IN the filename (like e4200). On many routers, and especially with new users, the thread recommends that you always flash a “mini” build first, because the mini build is guaranteed to be small enough to be able to fit in the router’s RAM without causing any trouble.

      However, the wiki isn’t updated daily, and hasn’t been updated since the 20202 and 20801 builds (which I consider stable). Any “trailed” build that will fit on the E4200 is fine to use for the initial flash. Again, as long as it’s a “trailed” build, you’ll be fine. So, in the case of the E4200 (which has 8MB of RAM), it’s perfectly safe to flash the dd-wrt.v24-20801_NEWD-2_K2.6_std_usb_nas-e4200.bin build (or even a trailed mega-e4200 build) directly from the stock Linksys firmware. Any “trailed” build that’s E4200-specific will work just fine.

      Of course, you won’t HURT anything by flashing the 18777 mini-e4200 trailed build first, but you’ll save yourself some time (and be just as safe) by just flashing the trailed std_usb_nas-e4200 build directly.

      • Nicolas Silber

        Thank you very much Steve for your dedication. So this version you posted in your blog would be a “trailed” flash or the BIG one??? Asking you this because there is a new version called Kong 20780M kingkong-nv60k-broadcom

        Have you ever heard abt this version¡¡¡??

        And just to know…whats the best website to get updated “trailed” builds??? I mean where did you get the build version 20801??? I just asked so I can always be updated when something new is out.

        Las question: If I flash my router from the vesion suggested in wiki can I then update to your vesrion??? In other words, if your vesion is trailed as well as wiki’s version can I update from wiki to your version??? A trailed version can be updated with another trailed version?? Or a trailed versionc an only be updated with a BIG version??

  • jake

    I recently noticed that there are 2 u. fl ports on that board that don’t have antennas attached. I know the black wires are 5ghz and the 2.4ghz are the grey ones but could someone tell me which band the open ones are for. here’s a link for the pic, you can see the ports all the way on the right side of the board by where the gray antennas are soldered.

  • Bob

    Hi,Steve !
    All settings are set E4200. If you include the connected cable WAN – WiFi does not work, the device can not connect. If you turn on without WAN, everything works, even if you then turn WAN.
    Can not influence this command:
    wl-i eth1 interference 2

    wl-i eth2 interference 2?
    What commands it can be turned off?
    Any idea why does not work when the WAN?
    Sorry for my english …

    • Hi, Bob. The options for interference mitigation are:

      Get/Set interference mitigation mode. Choices are:
              0 = none
              1 = non wlan
              2 = wlan manual
              3 = wlan automatic

      So you can shut it off with: wl-i eth1 interference 0

      Try issuing those commands via the command line (SSH). There shouldn’t be a difference, but I find it’s sometimes more reliable than the web interface. 🙂

      • Bob

        Thanks, Steve!
        With the installation of a “0” it worked fine!
        What is different commands with “1”, “2” and “3”?
        Thanks for the help!
        Sorry for my English.

        • Those are different settings for trying to manage (mitigate) the amount of wireless interference in your area. Whichever one works best in your setup is the right one. 🙂

          • Bob

            thank you, Steve…

  • Nicolas SIlber

    Thank you very much Steve for your dedication. So this version you posted in your blog would be a “trailed” flash or the BIG one??? Asking you this because there is a new version called Kong 20780M kingkong-nv60k-broadcom

    Have you ever heard abt this version¡¡¡??

    And just to know…whats the best website to get updated “trailed” builds??? I mean where did you get the build version 20801??? I just asked so I can always be updated when something new is out.

    Las question: If I flash my router from the vesion suggested in wiki can I then update to your vesrion??? In other words, if your vesion is trailed as well as wiki’s version can I update from wiki to your version??? A trailed version can be updated with another trailed version?? Or a trailed versionc an only be updated with a BIG version??

    • 1) The version I recommend in the main body of the article is both “trailed” and “standard” – meaning it has OpenVPN, USB support, and NAS support. The links at the bottom of the article are also all “trailed” builds, but of different versions (and a couple older builds that some users still like).

      2) Yes – I’ve heard about the 20780 kingkong version, and hear good things about it. Based on the version number alone, 20801 is a later build, and incorporates more of the bug fixes in the DD-WRT source code. However, whether or not those fixes will make any difference between those version numbers depends on what you need to have working in your setup. Keep in mind that the kingkong versions are NOT trailed, so if you want to try the kingkong version, you MUST flash a trailed build first. Then after flashing a trailed build, you can flash any compatible (nv60k) build you want onto the E4200, including another trailed build, if desired.

      3) The best place to watch for updated builds is the DD-WRT forums. I watch the Broadcom SoC Hardware forum, as new builds are generally posted in there right away, and then users can post feedback and share tips for tweaking.

      4) Yes – if you flash version 18777-mini as suggested in the wiki, then you can upgrade to a 20801 build (either trailed or non-trailed) after that. Yes, you can flash a trailed build after a trailed build.

      Based on your question, however, it seems you may be confused regarding trailed, non-trailed, big, mini, etc. First, all builds are classified as either a) “trailed” — router specific, with the router’s model number in the filename, or b) “non-trailed” — non-router specific, and has a generic hardware indicator in the filename (such as nv60k) and no router model number in the filename.

      In addition to the trailed/non-trailed distinction, all builds are ALSO classified based on the number of features included in the build. Such distinctions include micro, mini, OpenVPN, VOIP, standard, big, or mega. Check here for a list of which features are in which builds. The size of a router’s flash ROM determines how “big” of a build will fit on the router. So again, all builds are classified as either trailed or non-trailed, as well as by size/features. So you can have a trailed big build, a non-trailed big build, a trailed mini build, a non-trailed mini build, etc.

      Again, a trailed build must be the FIRST non-stock firmware flashed on a router. After that, you can flash any build that a) will fit (which isn’t an issue for the E4200 since it has 16MB of Flash ROM) and b) is compatible with the router hardware. In the case of the E4200, it must have “nv60k” or “e4200” in the filename. And you can go from trailed mini, to non-trailed big, to trailed standard, to non-trailed mega, etc. With the E4200, You can upgrade FROM any nv60k (non-trailed) or e4200 (trailed) version (big, mega, mini, etc.) TO any version trailed or non-trailed big, mega, mini, etc. Just make sure the FIRST build you flash is trailed.

      Hopefully that clears things up! 🙂

      • Nicolas SIlber

        You are a genious!!!!!! So clear now. Thank you!

  • Thanks for this! I had no idea we had a build this good yet! wOOt!!

  • Nicolas Silber

    Hi Steve…I just flashed my E4200 with the trailed version that appears on WIKI….So long its working good. I have some questions…..

    A) Do you think it’s worth it to upgrade to version 20801??
    B) Your “”Settings for Max Speed” you wrote in this blog are just for streaming media inside my home netowork ?? Or it also improves the quality of the signal of the wifi???
    C) Can I update my wiki flash version 18777 with yours even if both are trailed version right??
    D) Can I apply all your settings with my current trailed version (without updating to 20801)?

    Overall I am an intermediate user not an advanced one….but if with your version and your settings I will be able to improve the wifi signal and the speed of my connection I think it’s worh it.

    Again I would love you to explain me in what terms I will be beneficiated if I apply your settings.

    Thank you a lot.!

    • A) Yes. Many fixes of bugs still included in 18777.
      B) No. These will also improve the WiFi signal and speed, as well as WAN speed.
      C) Yes. You can always flash a trailed build.
      D) Yes, but you’ll get even better results with 20801.
      As to how you’re better off if you apply my settings, two things: 1) Your upload/download speeds will be faster. 2) Your router will be more stable.

  • Nicolas Silber

    Last question Steve….after upgrading to your version is it possible to downgrade back to 18777???

    • Yes. You can always flash a trailed build, even if it’s an older one.

  • pwaseem

    After Installing build 20801 i had issue to get DD-WRT working as a proper internet gateway in New Zealand! then finally i found this link


    and add cmd into Firewall script section under Administration > Commands:

    ip route replace $(nvram get wan_gateway)/32 dev $(nvram get wan_ifname)

    ip route replace default via $(nvram get wan_gateway) dev $(nvram get wan_ifname)

    Its work now, i will tune my DDWRT as per steve Settings for Max Speed,

    Thanks Steve.

  • Nicolas SIlber

    Hi Steve, pls when you have some time can you please answer the last last question regarding thr upgrade to your vesion!.

    • I did reply. It is ALWAYS ok to flash a trailed version. Always. Even if you’re flashing an older version on top of a newer one. It is ALWAYS ok to flash a trailed version.

      • Nicolas SIlber

        Hi Steve….I realise my last question was never posted.

        Now I have version 18777 and I am going to upgrade to your version 20801.

        The question is if in this new upgrade I need to perform the same wiki procedures I followed when I flashed for first time. With wiki procedures I mean

        A) Disconnect all cables and wireless clients.
        B) Do a Hard reset or 30/30/30 on router.
        C) Set your computer to a static IP-address
        D) Connect 1 Lan cable to pc doing the flash.
        E) Flash the latest E4200 specific mini build E4200 Trailed Initial Flash Build
        Wait for the flashing process to complete.
        F) Wait at LEAST another 5 minutes after the flashing process has completed.

        Do I need to do all this???? Or I can just upgrade from control panel without doing this????
        Did you do all this when upgrading to your version ???

        • I know some that go ahead with upgrades without doing the 30/30/30 each time, so while isn’t “technically” required, it’s never a bad idea, so I always do it to be safe. Re-doing the settings on your router is faster than dealing with it being bricked. Otherwise, yes — you can just go ahead and upgrade the firmware using the Administration:Firmware Upgrade screen, without disconnecting everything. My personal preference, however, is to do the firmware upgrade from a wired client (like my desktop). It CAN work from a wireless client, but I don’t like to take the chance of dropping the WiFi connection mid-upload.

          Also, while you can back up your settings to a file (Administration:Backup), you should NEVER restore a settings backup file that was saved from a different build. There’s a warning saying that same thing on the Backup page, but some people ignore it.

  • Nicolas Silber

    Hi Steve, sorry to write you again but I had a problem. Yesterday I flashed my router as you know (with trailed version from wiki). Router was working good. Today morning I left to office and everything was fine. Now I just returned home and I had no internet. So I unplugged the AC from router and re-connected. Nothing happens. I disconnected AC power from my cable modem and reconnected and nothing happens. I reseted my ruter from reset button and nothing happens. I can access to I thought maybe I had a problem which would be solved if I upgrade with your version. So I flashed again with your version and did it successfully but still no internet. I performed a hard reset 30/30/30….but nothing happens.
    So I thought maybe it was a problem of my internet connection and not the router itself so I connected the cable from cable modem to the PC directly (without passing through the router) and I could connect to the internet. I don’t know what to do??? Is it possible my router is bricked but I can still access to Would really appreciate your help in this. What it’s weird in my case is that I had the router working for 10 hours and then its all gone. Is it possible that the router bricks once it has been flashed sucesfully??? (I am now connected without the router..connected again the cable from cable modem to PC)

    Best Regards and appreciate your help!

    • If you can access the admin screens, it’s not bricked. It won’t “auto-brick” after a successful flash, either. You may want to try the DD-WRT forums to troubleshoot further.

    • I am far from an expert at this, but from the reading I’ve done on the DD-WRT forums, one possible cause is that your router still had some variables set in NVRAM which isn’t being reset when you re-flash your router.

      Make absolute sure you perform every step of the whole 30/30/30 procedure, exactly as its written in the wiki. Failing to completely reset the entire modem and clear all NVRAM variables can have some really bizarre after effects, even if the router partially works.

      If that doesn’t work, another suggestion would be to reflash back to the original Cisco firmware. You can download that from their website, and assuming that works properly, start over with an E4200 build. If you can’t even go back to the Cisco firmware, or you still have problems with DD-WRT after that, then sadly, but it sounds like your router is having hardware problems and its probably best to replace it.

      • That’s expert advice, Mike.

        30/30/30 reset and reconfigure is always the first thing to try (if the router doesn’t prompt you to set up a new admin username and password after the reset, then it didn’t really reset).

        And reflashing to stock Cisco firmware and starting fresh with a trailed build is a good “last resort” move.

        Give those a shot, Nicolas, and see if that helps.

  • Steve, thanks for the excellent information. I am currently running the E4200 trailed build of 18777 and everything I need works fine, except SNMP. I use Wallwatcher on a Windows 2008 server and want to be able to track traffic bandwidth. On an older E2000, SNMP was an option on the Service tab of DD-WRT, but unfortunately, this feature is missing on 18777.

    Can you confirm whether or not this feature exists on 20801? I am really hoping it is!

    • Hi, Mike. Sorry, I haven’t tested SNMP. But I’d love for you to give it a try and let me know! 🙂

      • I definitely can test it, but what I was looking for is if the option physically exists. On the 18777 build for the E4200 the option is physically missing. If its there on 20801, I will upgrade and test it, but if you can’t see it either, then I know its not worth the effort.

        In case you’re wondering what my apprehension is, that I have a HUGE list of static IP reservations and port forwarding rules setup that I am not looking forward to re-entering when I upgrade. So it would really be a hassle to go to 20801 and re-enter all that info, only to find that the option I’m looking for is still missing.

        • Ah – that makes sense. I just logged into the router and checked and yes, I see SNMP listed on the Services tab on this build, between SES / AOSS / EZ-SETUP / WPS Button and Secure Shell.

          I hate re-entereing IP reservations and port forwards, too. A great feature would be the ability to import/export just save THOSE settings to a file.

          • Hey, Mike. Your question got me curious, so can now confirm that SNMP works great in 20801. I did a quick test using the check_snmp plugin on my Nagios server.

            Here’s what I ran to check the cpu remotely:

            # ./check_snmp -H xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx -C public -o

            SNMP OK – 0 % | iso.

            Here’s a RAM check:

            # ./check_snmp -H xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx -C public -o

            SNMP OK – 18896 kb | iso.

            And here’s a router description check:

            # ./check_snmp -H xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx -C public -o
            SNMP OK – “Linux gateway #48 Fri Mar 1 20:11:05 PST 2013 mips” |

            So go for it! 🙂

    • SUCCESS!!!

      I took screenshots of every tab in 18777-mini reset to factory, then flashed dd-wrt.v24-20801_NEWD-2_K2.6 as instructed above, then painstakingly re-entered everything (it only took 25 minutes so it wasn’t as bad as I was making myself think it would be).

      Sure enough, not only is SNMP there, but Wallwatcher responded to it immediately. I am once more collecting bandwidth usage!

      Thank you so much Steve! There is SO MUCH info out there that is so confusing and contradictory and scary that I was afraid to ever depart from the recommended firmware suggested in the wiki. I am happy that I have a newer update that possibly has some other tweaks or such that I haven’t noticed yet.

      If anything strange crops up in the next couple of days, I will post back.

      • Awesome! Glad you’re having good results so far! It’s still chugging along on a number of routers I’m using (3 as routers and a few as access points), and I think 20801 is a major step forward for DD-WRT.

      • Now I’m hoping for some help from you. 🙂

        I figured I’d try the SNMP bandwidth logging myself, so I just installed Wallwatcher again (it’s been YEARS time since I used it.. since before I even used a router in my house). Got it running OK (a bit tricky in a 64-bit Windows environment), and the syslog stuff displays fine, but can’t get it to un-grey the “From snmp” option in the Bandwidth tab. I’m using the exact settings here:


        You using any settings different than in that post?

        • Think I may have answered my own question. I think the received OID is and the sent is You using the same?

          • Uptime:
            Community: Public

          • Yep – you’re right. The xx.12 is for br0. The xx.2 is for eth0 is, and the one we want for the WAN port (after running the OID scan, it’s the largest pair of values and the biggest change). Got it all working now. Thx! Oh, and you can set the SNMP params in DD-WRT to whatever you want. I have them all custom, including the Community name.

            I think maybe a “setting up Wallwatcher and DD-WRT” post might be next on my list.

          • I think it would make for a good post. Having a way to monitor the activity and bandwidth of your network is one of the many great features of DD-WRT.

            If you do make your post, a couple things that might help others who have a dedicated server, Wallwatcher is designed as an application, not a service. This means that it needs a user to be logged in for it to run. If you run a headless server (like I do), this is a problem because you don’t want to have a user logged in to make the monitoring work. A workaround to this is to use something like “srvany” to launch Wallwatcher as a service.

            This does work, and it accomplishes the task of creating logs and tracking bandwidth, but one flaw to this method is if you want to review your settings in Wallwatcher, it will not open properly because it thinks its already running. You have to use Task Manager, and end task on the Wallwatcher process, then re-launch it. This isn’t a huge deal though, since the logs are easily readable by any text editor and the bandwidth monitor still works on its own.

            Another tip for running this on a server is to point the logs to a folder that is shared across your network, that way you have quick and easy access to the daily logs from any computer on your network.

        • In DD-WRT, under SNMP, I left the deftault settings for everything except Location. The article you linked to says to leave that as “Unknown” but instead, I put the IP address of the PC on my LAN that is running Wallwatcher. For what its worth, the PC is running Windows Home Server 2011 64-bit (which is basically a Windows 2008 Server.

          In Wallwatcher itself, on the Router tab, I have Auto-Select unchecked, Router is DD-WRT, LAN addr is, Port 514, everything else is the default setting.

          On the Bandwidth tab, I first clicked “Scan for valid OIDs”, it takes over a minute to complete. Then I clicked “Test snmp” and after it completed, I checked the box for “Collect bandwidth usage”, then From SNMP, Every 1 min, File format text, everything else default.

          Hopefully you can get it working. If, by chance, you can’t and you know of another Bandwidth collecting program, please share. While Wallwatcher does accomplish the basic need I have for it, its a very old program that doesnt run well as a service on a Windows Server, and theres a few things I wish it would do, that it can’t. Too bad its not maintained anymore.

  • Fred Marin

    Thanks for this! I’ve been reading as much as I can before I flash my e4200. You cleared a lot of my concerns. Would you happen to know where I can find e4200 big build? I can’t seem to find it. I’ve looked at posts on ddwrt forums by Redhawk0 but can’t find a link for that build.

    • Hi, Fred. Fractal now hosts his builds here:


      He didn’t roll a “big” build for 20801, but chances are the std_usb_nas has what you want, and if not, just go with the mega.

      • Fred Marin

        Thanks! I will be going with the “mega” build. I read a lot of posts stating the “Big” build is a little unstable with OpenVpn.

        These builds are all for the initial flash, would it be safe to just flash a trailing build and use that or must I continue and flash a nv60 “Mega” build? Have those even been released?

        • I think you’ll be happy with the mega. It’s running great for me.

          It’s ALWAYS safe to flash a “trailed” build (even on top of any another build). It’s ONLY safe to flash an nv60k build on top of a previously flashed trailed build OR previously flashed nv60k build.

          And yes, Fractal has released a “non-trailed” nv60k mega build:


          (all 20801 versions, including that one, are hosted on that ftp link in my prev comment)

          Let us know how it turns out!

          • Fred Marin

            After posting my follow up question I saw the nv60 mega build on that same link you provided earlier. Again thanks for the help and providing that link. Very helpful.

          • Fred Marin

            Well following this very helpful guide has really improved my home network. I flashed dd-wrt on my e4200 and my wrt160nv3. my e4200 is my primary router while my wrt160n is on repeater bridge mode. I can now get a signal anywhere in my house and the backyard. And with the mega build i got a reliable VPN

  • Jussi Torhonen

    Thanks for great article, Steve. It woke me up considering later svn build than current. I have a E4200 (v1 I guess – no mention abt v2 and serial # is starting with 01C10C) running DD-WRT v24-sp2 (03/19/12) big – build 18777. Just cannot remember anymore, where to got that. I’m pretty sure, that I installed trailed e4200 first and then big-nv60. Is there any way to check that?

    Now, if I want to get svn 20801, can I use any of those e4200 trailed builds that you listed here? Is trailed build always a safe bet? Or if I have now a SVN 18777 big nv60, should I put SVN 20801 big nv60 to be on the safe side?

    Any way safely backing up the current SVN 18777 big configuration and restoring it into SVN 20801? Have several DHCP reservations, WLAN MAC filters, etc and would not like to write them manually back. Sure need to do it, if restoring such an old config is not safe.

    • Hi, Jussi. You do have a v1, because you could have never got 18777 on a v2. Yes, you can put a trailed build 20801 on top of the 18777 build, or you can use the mega nv60 on there (Fractal isn’t rolling “big” builds). A trailed build is always safe. But if you already have DD-WRT of ANY type on the device, you can flash a non-trailed nv60 build safely.

      There is no safe way to back up the 18777 config and restore it. I wish there was, and some people have reportedly gotten away with it, but it’s not recommended. Just take screen shots (or copy and paste fields into a text doc) and rebuild your config after a fresh flash.

      I also notice Fractal has just released 20979 (ftp://ftp.basmaf.com/Fractal_Builds/20979/). I’m going to test it out and see how it works.

  • Jussi Torhonen

    The following command line in Administration – Commands Startup script does give here some boost to wired WAN speed according several speed test services. Using 110 Mbit/s cable modem internet connection and it comes to E4200 router via Cisco EPC3825 cable modem device configured to bridged mode. Perviously used this with SVN 18777 big build, and now using the same with SVN 20801 std_usb_nas-e4200 trailed build. Without the xommand, I can see download speed max 75 Mbit/s and with the fix I can see the full speed.

    echo 200 > /proc/sys/net/core/netdev_max_backlog

  • Michael Griffin

    Hey there Steve! I followed your guide and have had great success with setting up DD-WRT and I’m loving the new control I have over the network. I have some questions relating to getting local DNS resolution working, and proper DNS caching/forwarding settings. I thought it setting up local DNS support was going to be really simple, and according to many tutorials it is, but I seemingly cannot get it working. Here’s my question outlining what I’m facing:


    I’d really appreciate your assistance! Thanks so much for such a well written article.


  • Pingback: How To: Overclock a Cisco/Linksys E4200 Router running DD-WRT | Steve Jenkins' Blog()

  • Dominic Pace

    Is there any disadvantage to using DD-WRT over the stock firmware? Does anything not work the same or better with DD-WRT than it would with stock?

  • PiSToLBR
  • Sir.Robin

    Great blog post! Answered a few questions i had 🙂
    Been running the
    dd-wrt.v24-20979_NEWD-2_K2.6_mini-e4200 myself some days now. Seems fine.

    However, i see BrainSlayer has this one as the newest:

    What exactly is the difference? Are there multiple versions with same file/build name?
    A bit confused…

    • Sir.Robin

      Maybe my question isn’t that clear… 🙂

      Why are two separate contributors making builds with same file names? And how do you know wich of these you eventually use?

      • Technically, the filenames are different, because the source build number is different. As to how to decide which build to use, most of the Broadcom folks in the DD-WRT forums use the Fractal builds, since he targets his builds to that hardware.

        • Sir.Robin

          Thank you for explaining 🙂

          So Fractal and BrainSlayer are working on their own separate versions then?

          Are there other developers too?

          • Separate versions of the code? No. They use the same code base from the DD-WRT SVN (Google to find that). Multiple developers contribute to the code base (it’s open source), and multiple developers use that central code base to make builds from that code base for specific hardware. The most well known builders are BrainSlayer, Eko, Fractal, and KingKong. Some of them add some extra things in (like Kong), and others primarily focus on tweaking their builds to specific hardware (like Fractal). But the central source remains the same.

  • Luis

    Steve, I have a question for you. In my trailed (or initial) flash, I used dd-wrt.v24-18777_NEWD-2_K2.6_mini-e4200(1), can I use this same trailer firmware and then do an upgrade with the one you’re recommending – dd-wrt.v24-20979_NEWD-2_K2.6_std_usb_nas-e4200.bin? Please let me know, or I may have to reset router back to original linksys firmware and then do another flash with the one you’re recommending, which I really don’t want to do. If possible, I would like to just use the one you’re recommending as an upgrade. Thanks Steve.

    • Hey, Luis. Yes – you can upgrade directly to the one I’m recommending right from the Firmware Upgrade tab of build 18777.

      • Luis

        Thanks Steve. Trying it out now, nervous but excited! Thanks for making life so much easier for someone that’s non-techie and flashing this myself.

        • Luis

          Steve, do you have a post teaching people how to setup a e4200 as an exteer or bridge, sorry lack of terminology. What I am trying to do is that, I already have a wireless network setup at home. I brought this e4200 to be placed in my room and going to install strongvpn on it so we can see all the goodies that Americans can ( I live in Canada). So this e4200 will be connecting to our current network wirelessly, and I am going to open a new wifi name for it, so that when my family would like to watch Netflix Hulu and all the other goodies they can connect to this wifi.

  • Luis Magdaleno

    Are the links down?

  • Thomas

    Hi Steve,

    Great article! I managed to get my E4200 a little bit more up to speed, but a can’t get the results you’re getting… Did a 30/30/30 reset after flashing the suggested dd-wrt.v24-20979_NEWD-2_K2.6_std_usb_nas-e4200.bin (was running an older Big build before). When I plug my pc directly in to my cable modem (so the WAN IP gets assigned directly to the pc over Gbit ethernet) I get my full 150 Mbit (150,8 actually, did several tests) when I connect it trough the E4200 with both wireless radio’s off and only my pc connected to it, I only get to 110 Mbit and after following your guide 125 Mbit!

    How can I get the full 150 trough the router?? Any hints?

    • Hey, Thomas. First, congrats on getting it up to 125! That’s awesome! As far as further tricks, I’m not sure what else to tell you. These are ALL the tricks I know of. I’m sure there’s some sort of bandwidth loss by using the router, so perhaps my “raw” upper limit is high enough that I’m getting these speeds even after “paying” that overhead. But it’s great to have a fellow E4200 speed-tweaker, so if you stumble across any additional tips that make things even better, please let me know and I’ll include them here!

      • Thomas

        Well, I started Googling after upgrading my cable contract, and (beside your guide) found this: http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-reviews/31399-cisco-linksys-e4200-maximum-performance-wireless-n-router-reviewed?showall=&start=2
        Does stock f/w realy gets it to 680 Mbit? That’s a huge difference comparing to DD-WRT. The most exotic features I’m using are DDNS and PPTP VPN client. Do you know if Tomato supports these? I read somewhere that they manage to get higher speeds…

        Did you try plugging the WAN in directly at East Wenatchee, WA?

        • Thomas

          Well, it seems Tomato doesn’t deliver either: Just installed a special E4200 build and did a nvram reset, disabled everything (from firewall to wireless radio, etc) and still no more then 105 Mbit.

          I guess DD-WRT + your startup script is the fastest option for this router!

          • Sigh. Bummer. I used to be a DD-WRT user, then switched to Tomato user on my old WRT-54GL, but have switched back now that I’m running the E4200. I’m considering trying out a recent kong build to see how the speed compares to the latest Fractal build. If you beat me to it, lemme know what you discover. 🙂

      • Thomas, something Ive noticed with ALL routers, regardless of firmware (DD-WRT, Tomato, Stock) is that the higher your speed, the higher the change your total throughput is affected by the router itself. Things like the SPI Firewall and any service you have (SNMP, Logging, etc) will affect its speed. I only have Comcast’s Bast service 50 down 10 up, but with these things enabled, I lose between 5-10%. If I disable them, it goes back up.

        10% isnt really that big of a deal for most people though, so I doubt theres much you could do. Even overclocking the router probably wont help since the CPU isnt being bottlenecked under most circumstances.

  • Jay

    Hi, I’ve come to your blog in search of newer E4200 firmware.

    This is the current dd-wrt firmware I have (I installed this when E4200 first came out and did no upgrade)..

    Router Name DD-WRT
    Router Model Linksys E4200
    Firmware Version DD-WRT v24-sp2 (12/12/11) big – build 18000

    If I were to upgrade to the 20979 build, do I simply go to DD-WRT Control Panel->Administration->Firmware upgrade from dd-wrt menu?

    Thank you!

    • Yep! That easy!

    • Steve is correct, but to be 100% clear, you’ll need to re-enter any custom settings you entered on your 12/12/11 build. Flash the 20979 build and you’ll need to re-setup your wireless, and any other settings like static IPs or port forwards. I recommend going through every tab of your old firmware and taking a screenshot and copying and pasting it into a Word document or something, so that you have the settings referenced for when you are on the new firmware.

      • +1 to what Mike just said… IF you’re doing it “right” and doing a 30/30/30 before your upgrade.

        However, I’ll admit that I’ve upgraded from 18777 -> 20801 -> 20979 without the resets in-between, and all settings remained intact. You should ALWAYS do a 30/30/30 before and after your initial DD-WRT flash, but between some of these later versions, I’ve actually been able to upgrade without problem, keeping my settings. Of course, this is NOT recommended, so you’re on your own to troubleshoot if things go wrong. However, when things DO go wrong, I’ve always been able to just 30/30/30 and start from scratch anyway. 🙂

        • Jay

          Awesome! I was able to upgrade without performing 30/30/30. I should’ve done it earlier if it was this easy 🙂

          Thank you!

  • Thanks for writing up your setup, it was a breeze to configure my router. =)

  • baz

    So I’m using build 20979 with your setup, and it seems after a week or so, (Maybe longer) the wireless connection starts to die (very very slow) and the router needed to be rebooted to fix it. I’m kinda wondering why support for these devices seem to be slow these days. I can remember going out buying a router and tossing ddwrt/tomato/etc and it work with little or no problems. I also have an Asus Blacknight and same problem nothing runs well in it.

    • Hey, Baz. I set mine to automatically reboot weekly, just to get a “fresh start” by clearing the RAM and any caches and restarting all the start-up services and settings. Give that a shot.

  • Thanks for your informational site. I’ve been a longtime WRT54G with DD-WRT user and the WRT54G has been showing it’s age for a while, but I had been unsure what router to upgrade to. I just ordered a refurb E4500 v1 via the phone number you gave in your original post. The cost was $79.99 and I mentioned this site and asked for the 15% discount and was told all they could give was a 10% discount. At $71 with free shipping, it still seems like a great deal to me. Thanks again!

    • Hey, Jason! Yeah – I upgraded from my trust old WRT54G to the E4200 myself, and have never looked back. Glad they’re still doing the over-the-phone discount, and tossing in the free shipping. Come back and post your speed results when you’ve got it all set up!

  • Has anyone been saying a thing about the intiial flash for the E4200 using the BrainSlayer 21286 builds? Also, are you running into any issues?

  • JnB

    Hi, just wanted to let you know that for apple macbook-macmini (that’s the one’s I know for sure) you need to be on channels lower than 140 for wireless-n 5ghz.
    I copied your settings exactly and saw no activity on the 5ghz, so I started searching and came up with the supported channels: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 100, 104, 108, 112, 116, 120, 124, 128, 132, 136, 140

  • Ard Righ

    I just wanted to say thanks for the article, helped answer my questions about moving from the stock firmware. I am like you, went from WRT54G -> GL -> E4200. I was using the stock firmware (IPv6 capability is nice) but finally moved to DD-WRT build you recommended.

    I notice there is a newer Fractal build out, but most people are reporting problems with it.

    • Glad it helped! And yes – there is a newer build, but I only recommend whichever one is the most stable on this article.

  • Pingback: Auf meinem Cisco/Linksys E4200 läuft nun OpenSource | vbnm.ch()

  • Nicolas Silber

    Hi Steve, I have build 20801….do you think its neccesary to update to 20979?? What are the changes or the benefits from my version to this one??


    • There are some improvements, and a newer wireless interference mode available. It’s worth the upgrade, and you can go from 20801 to 20979 without doing the reset.

      • Nicolas SIlber

        Ok and with the new firmware do I need add a new configuration in this new “wireless interference mode”? or with the last post is ok?

        • The settings in this post are always updated to be optimized for whichever build I’m recommending, so if you’ve got what I’m showing above, you’re good to go!

  • Cristian

    Hello Steve, Thanks for the great tutorial. Question, In 20979 can I restore the settings with the file created under 18946? Or do I need to configure the router from scratch?

    • It’s never a good idea to restore settings saved from one version onto any other version. You’d be better off attempting an upgrade from 18946 to 20979 without resetting.

  • mimi


    First congratulations for your blog. It’s very easy to learn with you.

    I’m going to put DDWRT to my V1 Linksys E4200 and I appreciate if you answer some questions.

    My E4200 is hidden in the wall and is very laborious to access the router so:
    -There is some other process to install DDWRT than do a manually 30-30-30 reset?
    – Did you test the 21402 version? If yes: is best, same, worse?

    Very thanks.

    • Hi, Mimi. It’s possible to attempt flashing without a 30-30-30 reset, but I really don’t recommend it. At least this first time, it’s going to be worth the laborious task. 🙂

      Yes, I’ve tested 21402 and still recommend 20979, as does the person who created that build (Fractal). 21402 has a number of known issues.

  • hid3

    Now I’ve configured my router according this and of course tuned to “recommended” (read known-good) settings. The problem was that I actually decreased performance. Wile testing I found that for 2.4 GHz it downloads/uploads best with 47 mW of power and Sensitivity Range (ACK Timing) set to 10.

    Now this was my test box to be put in production. I’ve set the SSID to my production one, and simply turned off the old/production box. All the WiFi clients jumped to the “new” dd-wrt one.

    And they started complaining! Packetloss, lower speed than before, etc etc.

    So I reverted everything back, turned on the old box to keep people calm and happy. Now WTF 🙁 Any clues what’s causing that? Any hints for settings to tune?

    Also, I’ve talked to a colleague. He told that having 5 GHz and 2.4 GHz with one SSID might not bring the expected result of clients switching for “better” frequency, as the client computers would always prefer 2.4 GHz just because this band will always be stronger/more powerful. The higher the frequency, the lower the signal strenght is.. Any ideas if these words are true?

    • First, good job actually testing to find out what works best in your environment. Because wireless networks are subject to interference, and no two locations are the same, everyone’s “perfect” settings will be different. My settings work well for most situations, but they should be used as a starting point for those who like to test, measure, and tweak.

      Playing with the mW and ACK Timing is a great place to start. By using those settings with the other suggestions I’ve made, do you still get packet loss issues?

      Also, your colleague is correct in saying that 2.4GHz signals will generally transmit farther than 5GHz ones. You might try setting your 2.4GHz antenna to G-only, and 5GHz antenna to N-only, and see how that works in your particular environment.

      Again – test, measure, and tweak is the best method to find your perfect setup. And sharing your findings with us is always appreciated!

      • hid3

        Steve, thanks for inspiration. I’ll spend a few weeks tweaking and testing the setup. Will respond if I find something that improves the situation.

  • David

    I’ve followed your guide and installed DD-wrt build 20979 and have a weird problem. My laptop can run max 150Mbps on width channel but I can’t get it to work, the max speed I can get is 72Mbps
    I’ve set width channel to 40Mhz and use NG-mixed mode. When my laptop connect to e4200, ISSider reports my router max rate at 300Mbps and run on two channel, after a few minutes it automatically switches back to 144Mbps and run on single channel. The result is my speed is limit at 72Mbps.

    How do I fix it?

  • Kees

    Hi Steve,

    Great guide you wrote here.
    To make live even eassier, would it be an idea to offer a complete backup file of the 20979 build including all tweaks and scripts (firewall, startup), but off course without any user specifi settings.



  • Jay

    Where could I download the latest builds? Is there a forum that has latest builds? 20979 doesn’t seem like it works for me well. I would love to try the latest build but I wasn’t able to find one on dd-wrt forum. Please let me know. Thank you!

    • Latest Fractal builds are at ftp://ftp.basmaf.com/Fractal_Builds/

      As of the date of this comment, I still recommend 20979 as the most stable build for the E4200 (and other E-class routers), even though 21402 is the latest build. If you choose to install 21402 anyway, good luck — you’ll need it. 🙂 If 20979 doesn’t seem like it works well for you, you may want to try and figure out why. It’s widely accepted as the most stable current build for late model Broadcom-based routers.

      • Jay

        How can I access the ftp server? I don’t have an ID/PW nor guest access do not work..

        • I clicked the link just now with my web browser, and it works fine.

          I’m guessing the next question you may have for me (once you see the huge list of files on that FTP server) is which file to download.

          My answer is… to change your mind and use the build I recommend in this blog post. You’ve already told me you weren’t able to find the builds you’re looking for on the DD-WRT site (even though they are discussed and linked to in the forums there, and found with a little digging or Google searching). You’ve told me that the build I recommend (which is widely reported as stable, and still recommended by the developer who makes those builds) doesn’t work for you, but you haven’t provided any details regarding specifically what problems you’re encountering. Finally, you’re having trouble just clicking on a web link to an open FTP server.

          Please don’t take this the wrong way, Jay, but maybe flashing non-stock firmware may not be the right thing for you to do. However, if you insist on moving forward, you really should spend some time in the DD-WRT forums — start by reading the “Peacock Thread.” Then read the threads that are specific to your router. Then decide whether you still want to move forward and, if you do, you can decide whether to use the build I recommend, or if you’d like to try something else. It’s not difficult to turn your $100+ piece of hardware into a useless brick, if you make a wrong move. Proceed carefully, and good luck! 🙂

  • terry

    You have to have one of the most logical and complete articles I have seen yet on this DD-wrt and ins and outs of it. A couple questions I have is will this DD-WRT build you recommend in main article do multiple subnets or what might be called multi homed? I have two separate subnets sharing one internet connection and need that to simplify. The other question I have is most certain one of inexperience. I have looked around the dd-wrt site and it seems that these builds are listed years ago. Meaning I looked up a bunch of router firmwares and they have not been updated in years. I did notice the cisco e4200 does have firmware that has more recent April dates on it. Is most of the dd-wrt firmware still being updated?

    • Yes – you can run separate subnets, although that’s a somewhat advanced configuration, and goes beyond the scope of this blog post. Your best bet is to hang out in the DD-WRT Forums and seek advice there for precisely the setup you’re looking to create. I’ve got another post on my blog that talks about a separate subnet I’ve set up as an isolated guest network, so perhaps some of the concepts in that post will help you set up what you need.

      Yes – the DD-WRT firmware is still being updated, but only the “beta” versions… many of which are still quite stable. Ignore the “Router Database” on the DD-WRT site. It’s useless. The forums and DD-WRT wiki are the right place to look for the latest versions for your hardware.

  • Joe

    Steve, kudos on a great blog about the E4200 and DD-wrt. It’s evident you have a tremendous amount of experience with the device and firmware. I’m hoping you can help with an issue I’m having. I’ve tried a number of versions of dd-wrt including the standard trailed build you recommend above but it does not seem like any of them have a working pptp client or I’m a complete idiot and can’t seem to figure out the configuration. I don’t seem to be the only one having problems with the pptp client. There are a number of posts on the dd-wrt forums that mention the broken pptp client and none of them seem to have found a resolution. I need to setup a persistent vpn tunnel from the E4200 to a Microsoft RAS Server. Do you have any insights or suggestions about getting the pptp client to work?

    • Hi, Joe. Sorry to hear about your issues, and sorry to say I don’t have any experience with the pptp stuff on DD-WRT. I do have a VPN set up at my location, but I only go “through” the router — from an outside Windows 7 client to a Windows 2008 RAS server inside the network,. But the only thing that required as far as the router is concerned is just forwarding port 1723 to the RAS server.

      • Joe

        I’m able to do the same using “vpn passthrough” and the Win 7 client, iOS client, android client, etc. That’s why I know the Win 2008 RAS server is working and the router is configured properly on the other side. Every other client can connect to the RAS server except the DD-WRT pptp client? I’ve even had success Tomato’s pptp client. Based on my research, it looks like dd-wrt’s pptp client hasn’t worked since build 15962 and I don’t think there’s a 15962 build that works for the E4200. Thanks for the reply.

  • Edward

    Hi Steve,

    This is awesome information thank you. Being a newb user, I have some quick questions for you. Right now, i’m using the stock Cisco firmware build 1.000.5 or something like that, if I do use the DD-WRT build 20979, would it help improve the following:

    1) I have an external HD connected to the USB port of the router right now, when I transfer files from my comp to the HD, it only processes at 1.5 to 1.7mb/sec. Would flashing it with the firmware help mitigate this issue?

    2) I watch the shows from my Samsung tv. The TV is connected wirelessly, would flashing it to the DD-WRT firmware and using your set up help with the buffering? Right now, on a good day, I can watch a 5gig movie with minimal buffering. Anything above that and it becomes unbearable.

    Thanks so much for your help with this!

    • Hmm… I wish I had data to answer these questions, but I just don’t. However, flashing is pretty easy, and it’s very easy to go back to the stock firmware (download it before you start your first flash). Run some comparisons and come back and let us know!

  • Ali Arman

    How applicable do you guess-timate that these tips&tricks would be applicable to e3000 running the same load of DD-WRT? Anything specific that you know won’t work? Thanks!

    • They’ll work great! I use these same settings on some E1200 and E1500 (except I only optimize one channel, since they don’t have a second antenna).

  • Massimo Ronca

    Just one question, if the value accepted by wl interference are 0, 1, 2 and 3, why are you putting 4? (with 4 it gives me an error BTW)

    • If you’re getting an error with 4, that means you’re probably running a build earlier than the one I currently recommend. Upgrade to 20979 and mode 4 will become available.

      • Massimo Ronca

        Hi, thanks for your reply, I’m using build 21676 and my question was just because either the docs for the wl command and you in reply to a comment say:

        Get/Set interference mitigation mode. Choices are:
        0 = none
        1 = non wlan
        2 = wlan manual
        3 = wlan automatic

        I’m using 3 on mine, I was just wondering what 4 is for 🙂
        I don’t think the flags are ORed such as 4 means 3 OR 1.

        • Hi, Massimo. OK – the build you’re running will have option 4, and that’s the best one (automatic with noise reduction). My old comment must have been from back before that option existed. Here are the most current options as of today:

          Get/Set interference mitigation mode. Choices are:
          0 = none
          1 = non wlan
          2 = wlan manual
          3 = wlan automatic
          4 = wlan automatic with noise reduction

  • Pascal

    Will I get a faster wireless speed with the DD-WRT firmware? The thing is wired to the modem (MOT SB6141) or to the router (E4200) I get up to 60 mbps but with the wireless connection I get only 40 mbps (after optimizing the settings). I can’t really disable the QoS with 2 smart phones, 2 tablets, 2 PS3, 1 laptop… Granted they’re not all on at the same time but there are a few (4).
    Is there any more recent and stable build than 20979 I could flash or you recommend to stick with 20979?
    Thanks and kudos for your amazing blog.

    • Hi, Pascal. You’re always going to get faster wired throughput than wireless, regardless of your firmware. Whether you get faster wireless with DD-WRT vs. stock really depends upon your environment (channels, interference, other clients, etc.). Because it’s easy to flash DD-WRT, and easy to go back to stock, it’s worth experimenting a bit to find out what works best for your situation.

      And the answer to your question about whether or not there are more recent or stable builds will always be answered in the first paragraph (highlighted in italics) of this article. 🙂

  • Edward

    Hello Steve, So after flashing my E4200 to the build 20979,
    and using your setup, my Samsung TV is having issues finding the
    NAS via the usb port on the router. I believe I have already
    correct, see below: SERVICES –> USB —
    /dev/discs/disc0/disc Block device, size 1.819 TiB (2000398933504
    bytes) DOS/MBR partition map Partition 1: 1.819 TiB (2000395698176
    bytes, 3907022848 sectors from 2048) Type 0x07 (HPFS/NTFS) Windows
    NTLDR boot loader NTFS file system Volume size 1.819 TiB
    (2000395697664 bytes, 3907022847 sectors) Status: Not mounted
    Status: Mounted on /mnt I have enabled Samba and used the following
    options: Path: /mnt Name: Public Public: ticked Access: Read/Write
    ticked Any idea what’s going on? When I used the Linksys stock
    firmware, my TV would pick up the NAS right away after connecting
    to the wireless network. Also, is there an option in ddwrt to eject
    the external HD? Thanks, Edward

  • Stan

    Steve, great article, it’s been at least a year since I’ve
    uninstalled DD-WRT from my E4200. For me speed wasn’t as important
    as range and the stock firmware had significantly better
    performance the further away you moved from the router. I was
    wondering if the new firmware resolved this issue and if you had a
    chance to test this? Thanks, Stan

    • Stan

      Any comments on the range of E4200 with DD-WRT and stock firmware?

      • Hi, Stan. The range is more a function of the transmit strength from the chip, and DD-WRT lets you increase that power to help increase your range. Of course, increasing TOO high can cause more interference and actually make things worse. I can safely say that the range with DD-WRT is no worse than stock, and is potentially better, depending on your environment and your settings.

  • Anon

    hey steve , new 22000 build is out, can you give us your

    • Yup! Currently testing 22000, but early thoughts are positive. Some reports that NAS broken on Mega, but have yet to confirm. NAS working on std-usb-nad build.

  • Amy

    Hey Steve, question for you. I have the E4200 running the
    latest build you recommend. Before this install, I was running the
    stock firmware and I have an HP Laserjet MFP M175nw which is
    wireless. Worked fine before and I was using the same security, and
    SSID. This printer you have to use either the wps method, or plug
    in the printer via usb to the computer and run through the
    configuration. The printer does get an IP so it’s definitely on the
    network but when the SW gets to the point of searching for the
    device (after the configuration stage) it says no compatible
    wireless device is found. Sounds awfully like a printer issue, but
    it is sure suspect that the day before the fw switch it was working
    just fine. Is there anything in the router configuration that I am
    missing, or change or something?? Anything off the top of your

    • Strange. If you can ping the printer, or access its built-in web interface (assuming it has one), then it’s on the network. I don’t know what would cause the not found issue, unless it’s finding old config settings on your computer and using that instead.

      • Amy

        Well, I cannot ping it or access the built-in web interface.The wireless configuration printed from the printer says it’s connected shows the corred SSID, auth is wpa2-psk/tkip+aes it’s on the correct channel. This is driving me nuts.

        • FYI – you shouldn’t be TKIP+AES, as that will kill your speeds. Try returning the printer to original settings, then re-run the WiFi network configuration. Your router should be WPA2 AES only, and all your clients should be, too.

          • Amy

            Thanks Steve, router is AES only as well as all clients… except that this printer shows that tkip+aes.

          • Not certain, but that could be part of the problem. Any way to force the printer to AES only?

          • Amy

            Wow, I found a solution, at least for now. One thing I have learned about this printer, is that with any router changes (i.e. security, etc.) you need to power cycle the printer for the printer to see the change. Previously, I had even switched my network to no security, just to test and still it would not connect… I feel now, that if I had power cycled the printer it actually would have worked. Anyway, I had setup a guest network, and decided to not only try that network, but changing the security to tkip+aes (since this is what the printer kept displaying, and still we do not know if that’s the issue, as with my previous router fw, I was NOT using tkip+aes. Anyway, changed the guest security, cycled the power, re-ran the software and SUCCESS!

            At the moment I absolutely do not care that it’s on the guest side of the network, it’s connected and working.

            Thanks for all of your help and suggestions Steve.

          • Great! Glad you got it working, Amy. I bet if you set back to the secure network settings and power cycle it, it will work. Don’t you hate it when the answer is just “turn it off and turn it back on again?” 🙂

  • Hi Steve, Nice article, might use your script for wireless
    optimisation. I have currently a nv60k version from Brainslayer and
    might want to switch to Fractal version for e4200 (22000). Can I do
    this without bricking my routeur ? I never tried to use Fractal
    firmware and I was wondering if I can switch to one made especially
    for e4200. Thanks, Phil

    • The upgrade won’t brick your router, but I’d still recommend the 30-30-30 reset to avoid strange behavior.

  • Edward

    Hello Steve, So after flashing my E4200 to the build 20979,
    and using your setup, my Samsung TV is having issues finding the
    NAS via the usb port on the router. I believe I have already
    correct, see below:

    /dev/discs/disc0/disc Block device, size 1.819 TiB (2000398933504
    bytes) DOS/MBR partition map Partition 1: 1.819 TiB (2000395698176
    bytes, 3907022848 sectors from 2048) Type 0×07 (HPFS/NTFS) Windows
    NTLDR boot loader NTFS file system Volume size 1.819 TiB
    (2000395697664 bytes, 3907022847 sectors) Status: Not mounted
    Status: Mounted on /mnt

    I have enabled Samba and used the following options: Path: /mnt Name: Public Public: ticked Access: Read/Write
    ticked Any idea what’s going on?

    When I used the Linksys stock firmware, my TV would pick up the NAS right away after connecting to the wireless network.

    Also, is there an option in ddwrt to eject the external HD?

    Thanks, Edward

    • I have to admit I’m not an expert with the Samba stuff on DD-WRT, but are you able to access the share from a standard Windows box? That’s where I’d start looking first.

      And as far as I know, there’s no option to eject the external HD.

      • Edward

        Hi Steve,

        yes I can access the NAS from my windows 7 PC. So I find it really strange I can’t see it from my Samsung TV.

        • That’s weird. I’m jump in the DD-WRT forums to see if someone with better Samba knowledge than me can hook you up.

  • JasonC

    First – great article. Very well written and the active comments/your replies have added further value. Thank you.

    Question – is there a way to tell which clients are connected to which radios? I could use this for a few reasons. First to know who is 2ghz and who is 5, possibly even to determine if I have an G clients connecting. Any ideas on how to accomplish this? I have noticed the client list does not change when you change radios in the status.

    • Hi, Jason. The default system info page (Status/Sys-Info tab) will show the connected clients per device, and then you can hazard a guess at which radio (2 vs 5) based on the TX rate (assuming you have 5 set at N only).

      Otherwise, no – I don’t know of any way to break out that data. But that’s a great suggestion, and I’ll pass it along to the developers!

  • Steve Villarruel

    HI Steve,
    Thank you for this great how to. I see that you said these setting can be applied to the E1200 would the Command script you gave also apply to the e1200 as well? is there any modification to script that needs to be done:
    sleep 10
    wl -i eth1 interference 4
    sleep 10-> I think I would need to take this line out.
    wl -i eth2 interference 4 -> and this line out. right?
    echo 262144 > /proc/sys/net/core/rmem_max
    echo 262144 > /proc/sys/net/core/wmem_max
    echo “4096 16384 262144” > /proc/sys/net/ipv4/tcp_wmem
    echo “4096 87380 262144” > /proc/sys/net/ipv4/tcp_rmem
    echo 1000 > /proc/sys/net/core/netdev_max_backlog
    echo 8192 > /proc/sys/net/ipv4/netfilter/ip_conntrack_max

    thank you again keep up the Blog its freak-in awesome.

    • Yep – you are totally right. Just take out the extra sleep line and the eth2 line (since the e1200 only has one antenna). Should work great!

  • lrocks

    So Steve, how does the 22000 compare to your recommended
    20979 build? is it worthy? Better/Worse? Your thoughts please, or
    do you need more time?

    • It’s OK. Mega version has NAS support broken, but it works on the std-usb-nas version. I’ve reported the error on the mega build. So I recommend 22200 for std, but not mega.

  • Hi there,

    I really appreciate your help with the settings.
    The Wireless security part, I would have never figured it dropped speeds THAT MUCH.
    I had to install DD WRT on my TP-LINK N750, as I had to bypass the silly UK SKY Fibre router, that had an MER setting.

    Here’s what I had to do:

    Anyway, I’m all up and running, but I had a few questions about the settings – I would appreciate your feedback:

    1. Why is my WIRED name the same as my 5GHZ wireless name? Is there a way to change it?
    Under basic setup I have it as DD-WRT only, yet it seems to pick up my 5GHZ wireless name.

    2. Is the “Server IP/Name” needed? I didn’t put anything and left it blank

    3. Is it wrong to have both my WIRED and WIRELESS MAC codes identical?
    I had to “trick” the WAN connection of my Cable router in order to get online, to bypass the Sky system. Thus thought to include the same wireless MAC code for the wireless part.

    4. For the wireless section:
    -I have put 40mhz for 5GHZ (left the channel on auto) and 20mhz for 2.4ghz (channel 9).
    -Under advanced, I changed the Domain to UK
    -Apart from that I left everything else default, like the TX power to 20 dBm

    Is that OK?

    -I also put WPA2 personal like you ddi and AES, but why not WPA personal MIXED?

    Under services, what’s the use of SSHd?

    Under UnP I enabled both clear port and the service, just wondering what’s the point of clearing the port?

    Finally, under admin and management, I ticked HTTPS – is that fine?

    I really appreciate if you took time reading and going through this!

    • 1. Not sure what you mean by “wired name.” or what you have set up as “DD-WRT only?”

      2. Nope. You can leave blank.

      3. Hmm… I would have guessed it would cause problems, but if you’ve got it working, then maybe not!

      4. Those settings are fine.

      As to why not WPA Personal Mixed, the “mixed” means it’s AES+TKIP, and using TKIP will drop your speeds.

      SSHD enables a text-based command line shell to the router. Just leave it off if you don’t plan on getting in there and tinkering around.

      I clear the port just to keep things clean.

      HTTPS is totally fine.

      Good luck!

  • Oscar

    Hi Steve

    Thanks a lot!!! I just got my new e4200v1 and spent 4h reading know issues in different versions and so to get the most stable one. After a while I found your website and it has a lot of really good stuff.

    Thanks a lot!!!

    • You’re welcome. I’m glad the post helped you out! The E4200 is a great unit. You’ll love it.

  • Ray

    Steve, I have been looking for a guide like this for a while But I do have a few questions as well as a bit of usefull information. Hopefully this will prove helpful to others that might be having AT&T uVerse work correctly.

    I have AT&T Uverse and when I first started using DD-Wrt Behind the Uverse Gateway a 2wire 3801HGV I was having all kinds of problems one of the biggies was that every I would work fine for 3 min and then poof nothing worked. jprez1980 told me to enter this command and apply it to the firewall
    iptables -I INPUT -p udp –sport 67 –dport 68 -j ACCEPT

    Then click save firewall. After you do this you need to reboot, sometimes twice and or reset the gateway too and poof the problem cleared.
    If you look under the Status Tab then the WAN tab the remaining lease time should NEVER drop below 5:00 if it is this clear’s the problem.
    I was still having a number of issues one was just accessing my modem crashfly gave me some advice See: http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=161983&highlight= to one of the biggest was to use different sets of Ip addresses for example for me my 2wire gateway was setup at (you can’t bridge a AT&T Uverse 2wire 3801) and My E4200V1 is my DHCP Server using the address of After following both pieces of advice and multiple reboots of the E4200 V1 & the 3801 all has been great.

    But now the big question. I have decided to change from my current firmware DD-WRT v24-sp2 (04/07/12) big – build 18946M NEWD-2 K2.6 Eko to your most recent advice 22200 Trailed std and all of your other advice but when I do this will I still need to use the iptables -I INPUT -p udp –sport 67 –dport 68 -j ACCEPT command? if so where do I put it in with all the commands you advised to use?

    Thanks again for all of your help


    • The command you mentioned is a Firewall command. I’m not certain if you need it, but if your testing shows that you do, enter it in the text field and press “Save Firewall.” Then you can replace the text area commands with the other commands I recommend, and then save them with “Save Startup.”

      Then, every time your router starts up, it will apply the firewall rules to the firewall, and also run the startup commands.

      • Ray Dicks

        ok, thank you. I did notice you didn’t give any suggestions for: Setup – Basic Setup:Network address server settings (DHCP) for example what goes in Static DNS? I’ve heard you need to put the DHCP server and the Google servers but what is your advice? Also I have seen a lot of posts on DD-WRT about additional firewall protection is this something that can be done at the router level?

        • Hi, Ray. Good suggestion. I’ve updated the post to include Google’s DNS servers in the DHCP tab. Yes, you can do additional firewall protections, but you don’t really need any unless you’re doing custom stuff.

  • Javier

    Hello Steve i want to say thanks for this great tutorial you did, I followed your instructions and flash my E4200 V1 and works just good, I have a VPN astrill account which I want to use with this router, they have a sw that installs in the DDWRT router so astrill users can configure and use astrill vpn. when I try to do this after I installed the Big FW you suggest on this article I get the following error VMRAM Lock waiting… I tried the 30/30/30 and the erase nvram from a telnet and still getting the error, I Google and found another command which I’m afraid of running since could brick the router and I’m a newbie on this DDWRT topic and that is mtd -r erase nvram, if anyone could help or has any idea on why I’m getting this error.


    • Hi, Javier. I wish I could help on the VPN stuff, but I don’t use it. I recommend asking in the DD-WRT forums with your specific case. I’m sure someone will be glad to help you out. 🙂

      • Javier

        Thanks Steve, will try the DD-WRT forum.

  • Just had an interesting find… I had to configure the wireless settings on the 2.4Ghz antenna to allow TKIP + AES, so that my canon printer could connect to the wifi (it only can auth over TKIP). Well, this screwed up the wifi-priority for some of my clients.

    Previously, my wifi clients would choose between 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz and pick whichever was best for them, as my SSID’s are the same for both antennas. After changing 2.4Ghz to TKIP+AES with 5Ghz at only AES, I found that none of the clients would choose 5Ghz anymore… even if they were right next to the router!

    So, in my case, if I enabled TKIP+AES on one antenna, I have to do it on both, or the clients never choose the 5Ghz network.

    • Maybe there’s a firmware update for your printer to allow it to authenticate AES?

    • I ran into similar problems with an older printer. I ended up buying an Asus WL-330N and plugging the printer into the 330N with an ethernet cable. Works great and no more problems with old wifi hardware.

  • Kees

    hi steve,

    Set up the new 22000 build and it seems to work OK.
    There’s just 1 thing: Though i’ve chosen (and double checked) WPA2-Personal + AES as security mode on my WLAN, SSID notes that my Security is WPA2-Enterprise.

    Any Ideas?


    • Not to worry. The only difference between Personal and Enterprise is that Enterprise uses a Radius server for authentication, while Personal just relies on the pre-shared key. InSSIDer might just be classifying it wrong. If you’re connecting from your wireless devices and aren’t using a Radius server, your running Personal.

  • Kees

    Hi all,

    I’ve got some second (and maybe little paranoia) thoughts about adding (only) Google’s DNS servers as static DNS servers. With half of the world leeching their DNS adresses, IMO they aren’t the fastest way to go. I personally wrote a simple batch which pings the 2 Google DNS servers, the 2 OpenDns servers and the 2 DNS servers offered by my ISP. Based on the average round trip time i then choose 3 static DNS servers, which i feed to my router. I realise that round trip time doesn’t make up the whole “chain of speed”, but i found that most of the time the second adress offered does seem to reply fastest due to the fact that they’ve got to carry relatively less load.

    • Hey, Kees. I hear you. Paranoia is healthy. I use NameBench from a local server to do real DNS testing, and Google won (from my location). Try it from your location and see what’s best for you. You can include your own list of servers to add to the defaults. https://code.google.com/p/namebench/

  • Harry

    Hi Steve

    Thanks for the manual! Gives a lot of insights in how you configured your E4200. I did some changes anyhow. When connecting wireless with your settings, my speed is reduced to 54mbps (both on 2.4ghz and 5ghz) after reverting the afterburner and frame burst settings, my laptop (with intel N6300 card) connects fine (5ghz: 450/ 2.4ghz 300)

    Can you confirm or explain it? In the forums I see some more guys having troubles with max connection speed at 54mbps.

    Btw, great tip only using AES encryption for security. It’s so easy to select AES+TKIP and run in a lot of performance issues!

    • It really would depend on what other clients are connecting to your router. Sometimes, speeds drop down to maintain compatibility with certain clients. But if tweaking any of your settings (even if different than mine) give you better results, that doesn’t hurt my feelins and those are the settings you should use! 🙂

  • routeee

    Looks like Cisco Home Store doesn’t have these anymore. The only place I can find them is already with DD-WRT installed from FlashRouters.com and their store on Amazon.

    • Too bad. FlashRouters prices tend to be significantly higher than the price of the hardware alone, and flashing is easy.

  • Kees

    Hi Steve,

    Since i’ve upgraded to version 22000 i’m experiencing system event 1014 (DNS Client Events) on my W8Pro wired PC. Nothing much, just a handful a day. But i’ve been running the same PC for over a month with 20979 without any events.

    Anybody else noticed this too?


  • Kees

    Hi Steve,

    I went back to 20979 because IMO that version seems to run smoother and more responsive (based on the screen response). Speed benchmarks are equal to 22000 though.

    Regards Kees

  • Great

    Version 22208 is out, thank you Fractal and Steve.

    • It is — and I like it. 🙂

      • Great

        yes, it’s been good for me as well 🙂

  • gericb

    Hello Steve!

    I am decently tech savvy. I sometime back, purchased 2 of the E4200’s from the Cisco Home site, even got that discount, thanks to you. 🙂

    Back in the early days, circa 2005 of 3rd party software for Linksys routers, it was pretty straight forward, only 1 or two options available, just enough organized and documented feature lists, installation steps, etc. It still seems that BrainSlayer and those involved with the DD-WRT line of things, are largely considered the best options.

    So now, though in many ways things are more organized, the sheer amount of information out there lends itself to being more disorganized/confusing in the forums, and in many cases, actually conflicting information, where only sticking with the published options on the “Router Database” is the best way to protect that router investment and not bricking it.

    What I am curious about, is your thoughts on the several variants out there: BrainSlayer, Eko, Fractal and Kong.

    What sets each of these variants apart from one another, typically there is no clearly defined value-add breakdown, and why one might want to go outside of the safe Router Database steps.

    Does one variant seem to have less bugs, more features, more regular updates or based on your own personal testing, to be more reliable and stable?

    Thank you for your response on this in advance, and all of your great areas of technical interests and sharing!


    • Kees

      I agree with that and what i like to know even more is: What makes this version “better” than the previous one(s)? Is speed the main concern, or is it extra functionality?
      As it turned out (in my situation) version 20979 seems to do the job for me, whereas 22000 turned out buggy


    • I get this question often enough that I decided to write a separate post today to answer it! 🙂


      • Kees

        Thank you Steve,

        This clarifies a lot, but still some sort of changelog of these Fractal builds would be appreciated.

  • TZ

    Hi Steve, great write up! I’m hesitate to do the upgrade to DDWRT for a long time, but after reading this and see all the speed boost, I’m definitely going DDWRT!
    Just a quick question, is 20979 still the recommend build? I’ve seen 22208 is up on that http://FTP...

  • Pingback: Difference between DD-WRT BrainSlayer, Eko, Fractal, and Kong Builds | Steve Jenkins' Blog()

  • Thanks Steve, I really appreciate you taking the time and effort to conveying with such clarity
    and detail, all your accumulated knowledge on this very popular question. I have tended to use the Eko builds in the past, noticing exactly what you were talking about with the legacy/maint. BS builds. I just recently tried the Kong builds, impressed with many of the extra features and functionality, but not had it long enough for real world testing.

    I have a 2nd E4200, I will try out the Fractal builds, since your a tad more preferential to those. I’ve visited your E4200 Blog and done my setup that way thus far, so a few questions here and there to follow later.


  • Kees

    Hi Steve,

    Dunno what happened, but with version 22208 my internet speed went up 5%.
    Read somewhere that my ISP is busy implementing improvements, but those normally go in steps on 10 or 20 mB.

    Strange… but Great 🙂


  • Robert

    Worked like a CHAMP! Thanks Steve.

  • Hello there, I tried downloading “dd-wrt.v24-22208_NEWD-2_K2.6_mega-e4200.bin” from your link, but it seems that the file size is zero!!!! any idea where to download this build?

    • Strange – I just downloaded it and it was 7.85MB. I’ve double-checked the link and it works. Try again?

  • Ray Dicks

    Hey Steve, I am so glad you have this article up, I only wish I found it sooner, I would have purchased more of the modems new when they were available…
    The fact that you keep it current even the info at the beginning is GREAT.
    I do have a question though, I setup one of the E-4200’s for each of my son’s one of them is using Comcast 50mpbs and it works great except that he has a gaming computer upstairs about 20′ away from the router, he is using an external Linksys AE3000. I have everything setup as you posted it however his computer keeps dropping connection it will not even stay up for 5 min. I removed all of the startup commands that you had in your post, the problem cleared but the speed / throughput is not as good at it was. Any suggestions as to what is wrong?
    Thanks again,

    • I had the same problems with the interference mitigation commands. Turning them on causes my Wifi TV and my Wifi-enabled Sony Blu-Ray to frequently drop connections for a split second. I had to frequently restart Netflix titles. After removing the commands the connection stays up longer but still disconnects. I’m not savvy enough with my router yet to fully diagnose the problem, however in my research it may be that I didn’t not follow the Wiki instructions. (I first upgraded from stock firmware to Tomato, but switched to DD WRT after similar problems happening. Enabling QoS alleviated some of the symptoms but not entirely.) I plan on reinstalling the firmware following the proper steps and seeing if that alleviates the problems. If not I’ll probably revert back to stock firmware as I never had any connection issues despite my throughput not being as high.

  • Mike Hogan

    Hi Steve,

    A great article which gave me the confidence to have a crack at installing DD-WRT after over a year of worrying about bricking my router. All went well and it’s running like a dream.

    The main reason I installed DD-wrt is so I can run Astrill VPN on the router instead of on individual devices. I know from previous questions that you don’t use Astrill but these questions are more generic to the mypage extra page on the administration tab so I wondered if you might know the answers?

    To install Astrill, I now have to run a web script which will instal an extra page on the administration tab. My question is this, will the extra page take up more flash memory? If so, is there enough flash memory available after installing the mega build on the E4200 or should I go for a big build. If I need to install a big build, do you know where I can get one for the latest stable build that you recommend as Basmaf only seems to share the Mega build.


    • Hey, Mike. You’re right, I don’t know ANYTHING about Astrill, and I don’t know if an extra page will put you over the top as far as RAM space. However, I do know that the latest (22208 as of this reply) build is available in a std_usb_nas version. I’m looking at it right now on Basmaf’s FTP site. Go to ftp://ftp.basmaf.com/Fractal_Builds/, click on the build you want, then search for “std_usb_nas” and then grab the trailed build for your router (e4200). That’s only 6MB, and has all the features 99% of users will ever need, and leaves 2MB of RAM overhead for whatever else you might need!

      • Mike Hogan

        Hi Steve,

        The Astrill website states “minimal build is 13309 (v24 or newer; Mega, Big, VPN, OpenVPN builds)”.

        I guess I will have to go for the OpenVPN build from Basmaf’s FTP site though it does seem to be missing some nice functionality.

        Thanks for your help and quick reply.

        All the best,


  • Kees

    Hi Steve,

    I’ve used your guide to set up my router and it’s running OK
    Now that i’ve got my router up and running, i’d like to hook up an external USB HD to it to share files amongst some windows clients or as a backup device.

    I’ve been reading about how to do this in the DD-WRT forums, but i just can’t seem to get the right information to get it working (installing optware, partitioning HD, etc.).

    Can you help me out with an easy guide on how to do this the easy way without installing tons of extra’s i’m probably not going to use?



    • It’s something I’ve been thinking about doing for a while, so I’ll put it on my “to do” list!

  • Ash

    Just wanted to say thanks, hesitated to do this, but your post made it clear for me to do. And did it succesfully in under 1 hour without any troubles. Currently playing with config settings.
    Thanks and will look regularly on this post to see if you have any updates.

  • Quanah Harjo

    So I’m thinking of putting DD-WRT on my E4200. This is partly to get a USB drive up and running as a Samba share, DLNA server, and a BitTorrent server. I’m getting the idea that I’ll be able to do Samba and DLNA from the 22208 build, but that BT is out because Optware won’t run on current Fractal builds. Is this still correct? I could go back to an older build that still had the FPU enabled, but I figure the wireless stability would suffer.

    Also, the matrix on the DD-WRT site of features is confusing…can std_usb_nas fully support an Ext3 formatted HD, or will I have to use Ext2 unless I go Mega? But then the last note I saw said that Mega’s NAS page was blank. $*!)*$)!**#)! If I do go with 22208, would it still make sense to stick an /opt partition and swap on my HD in case Optware comes back, or is it a lost cause?

    Occasionally figuring DD-WRT is like reading tea leaves.

    • It really IS like reading tea leaves, and I wish I had more accurate info for you. You are correct that Optware won’t run on current Fractal builds, and I’m not even sure about the current Kong builds, since his builds now come direct from the DD-WRT SVN trac (to which he now officially contributes — see my other blog post about this).

      I do, however, know that you can mount an Ext3 filesystem with the 22208 std_usb_nas build, because I’ve got one mounted right now, running Samba, and I’m considering writing a blog post about getting that working for new users.

      • Luis


        You def. show do this write up and explain which format of the hard drive to use and what the expected speed should be on copying to and from the hard drive. I know it has a lot of variables but I’m sure we would all appreciate it.

  • Ray Dicks

    Steve, I’ve been using your setup connected to AT&T U-verse for about 2 months now without problems (Thank you!). I have an issue I’ve tried to correct without luck so far hopefully you will have some insightful advice.

    Background: I have a 2 story house with a basement, at one end of the home on the 2nd floor I have 1 Cat 5 cable connected to a U-Verse IPV set top box.
    Issue’s I’m hoping to resolve and after searching the internet there are a lot of people with similar problems:
    1. In that part of the house the wireless signal drops off significantly which results in slow internet.
    2. If possible I would like to put a 2nd U-verse Set top box in that area and the boxes I have are hard wire STB’s.
    3. From what I have read, U-verse distributes the IPTV signal via multicast and wireless routers go into paranoid mode when presented with multicast, i.e. they slow way down to be sure every multicast packet gets thru (since error detection/retransmit isn’t a viable option). This results in backing up or slowing everything down. Supposedly the 2wire 3801HVG Router/Gateway knows how to do this but other routers don’t.

    My questions:
    1. I purchased a 2nd E4200 v1 and configured it per your directions, if I connect it to the cat 5 cable that is run to where the 2wire 3801HGV is connected via bridge mode to the E4200v1 that I have are to correct the wireless issue do I just configure it as a access point and configure it to the 1st E4200v1 should I use the same SSID that I have for wireless per your instructions for the 1st E4200 or do I need to use a Different SSID?
    2. Is there a way to connect the current STB I have and hopefully a 2nd one to that 2nd E4200 I have via Cat 5 cable & overcome the Multicast issue? I .e. is there a command that can be entered directing multicast to those 2 ports only?

    Hopefully you will have some insightful advice. Thank you again for everything (and I’m going to try the product you wrote about for Snoring I am hoping I have the same luck you did)

    Thanks again, Ray

    • Hi, Ray. Sorry, but I know nothing about U-verse’s setup (I use Comcast). But if you’re looking to use an E4200 as an access point, then all you need to do is set “Connection Type” in the “WAN Connection Type” section of the “Setup/Basic Setup” tab to “Disabled” and also disable the the DHCP server on the same tab. Then plug one of the LAN ports (NOT the yellow “Internet” port) into one of the LAN ports of any other connected switch or router. I use the same SSID for all access points in my setups — makes roaming easier.

      As far as your U-verse specific questions, I’d bet that some folks in the DD-WRT forums would be able to answer those with better expertise. Good luck!

  • Omer

    Hi Steve,
    Thank you for your post!
    I have a e4200 v1 with an updated stock firmware (1.0.05) for over a year.
    The devices connected to the router: two laptops, one wireless printer and one NAS (Readynas Duo with wired connection).
    I’ve had no problems with the router until recently it started to randomly disconnect. both the wireless and the wired connection. The light on the router is still on but the SSID signal is completely gone. I have to unplug and plug again the power cord in order to recover the connection. It happens after several minutes or several hours at most. It also not randomly every time I’m trying to transfer large files from or to the nas in wireless connection. It happens more often since I installed WIn- 8 on my laptop (thinkpad T500 with AGN 5300 with the most updated driver)
    I tried hard reset and reconfigure the router with no help.
    I finally decided to flash DD-WRT (22208 mini, trailed) in order to obtain a more reliable and stable connection, but that didn’t help either.
    I’ve been looking in the forums but found no solution to my problem.
    I hope you can help me with this.

    • Sounds like the problem might be hardware related, if it happens across two totally separate firmwares. If you’re still under warranty, I’d try to replace it. If not, make a post in the Broadcom section of the DD-WRT forums and I’m sure someone smarter than me can help you troubleshoot. 🙂

  • Dave Page

    Hi Steve

    An excellent article which gave me the confidence to install the 22208 std_usb_nas trailed version of DD-WRTyou recommended on my e-4200 v1. Everything went extremely well and I am up and running with no apparent problems at all.

    I do have one question though. Does this build support OPENVPN which is my preferred choice with HMA ProVPN? Thanks in advance of your assistance.


    • Hi, Dave. There is a Services/VPN tab on this std_usb_nas build, but I don’t think it’s OpenVPN. There is, however, an OpenVPN build of 22208 for the E4200: ftp://ftp.basmaf.com/Fractal_Builds/22208/dd-wrt.v24-22208_NEWD-2_K2.6_openvpn-e4200.bin

      • Ray Dicks

        Steve, Thanks for all of your help you keep providing here vs pretty much everyone else that write an article and never keep it current or provide additional support or advice, you stand alone from what I have seen and I really appreciate it.
        On your last post to dave about Open VPN, which I have considered using, you talk about the Open VPN version of 22208 however, in other builds you talked about issues with the NAS not working or being broken. Is that an issue on this build and do I loose anything else by using this build that would direct me into using the NAS version unless I need the Open VPN?

        Thanks again, Ray

      • Dave Page

        Many thanks for your very quick response to my query Steve.
        I shall now go ahead and try the build you suggest.


  • Anonymous

    Hi, I just want to ask that is this overclocking and do i need to install a heat sink?

  • does the standard dd-wrt.v24-22208_NEWD-2_K2.6_std_usb_nas-e4200.bin
    have usb ntfs support in it?

    • Hey, Dirk. I’m not sure – I’ve only mounted an EXT3 partition. Maybe ask in the forums?

    • Kees

      Hi Dirk,

      I can confirm that this works (tried both NTFS and Ext3 actually), but you’d better go for ext3 because that’s 2~3 times faster in read/write operations.


  • Kees

    Hi Steve,

    Got this HP laptop which uses an Intel 3945ABG wireless card to connect to my router running v22208. Despite the fact that i’ve set wl1 to N-only (5-GHz), this laptop (which is able to use 5 GHZ but doesn’t support 802.11n) connects to wl1 (eth2) without any problems.

    It’s not a big problem but IMO shouldn’t be possible

    Any ideas?

    Regards Kees

    • Kees

      As it turned out, it’s an afterburner issue. When setting wl1 to N-only (5-GHZ), afterburner defaults to “disabled”. This makes sense, because afterburner is an 802.11g technology.
      The “disabled” setting can however be overriden and set to “auto” or “enabled” in which case not only N-clients but also A-clients are allowed to connect to wl1.

      Therefore it’s perhaps better to correct this in your manual above and maybe fixed in any next build.

      Regards Kees

  • Jussi Torhonen

    As a tip for all users having WAN disconnect problems, pleasetry adding following into Administration – Commands – Firewall. Helped me. I don’t know what’s special in the DHCP implementation af my ISP, but this iptables rule did the trick.

    So my DD-WRT WAN port has a dynamic DHCP address delivered from the ISP’s DHCP server. Without the rule, normal DHCP renew was never done as it normally is made after half of the DHCP lease time has gone. When lease time was spent, my DD-WRT did full DHCP release/renew and got the ip again. But that killed all active TCP connections at the same time. So, if you think you might have this kind of problem, please feel free to try this out.

    You might want to check the behaviour of your WAN port via Status – WAN and there watching Connection Time and Remaining Lease Time counters. If your WAN ends up to full DHCP release/renew, then connection time will be reseted. If your DHCP renew is done normally, then Connection Time increases all the time and Remaining Lease Time goes up every time when the router has successfully done DHCP renew.

    So, here is my 2 cent tip:

    iptables -I INPUT 2 -p udp –sport 67 –dport 68 -j ACCEPT

  • Demir


    Thanks for a great instruktion regarding uppgradering Cisco E4200.
    I have done that to, before the upgrade i could only get 105mbit/s but now i get 135Mbit/s WAN troughput. But the problem is that i have a 1000/1000Mbit but still cant get over 135Mbit down and 80-90Mbit Up. I have Gigabit Link on WAN and LAN ports but still cant get near 1000 Mbit, what am i doing wrong :/ ?

    Best regards

    • Kees

      Hi Demir,

      Looks like you’ve hit the max throughput of your HDD. Try transfering files between two ram disks over the network.

      Regards Kees

      • Kees


        Got me confused with bits and bytes ;-). 135 MBytes/sec. would more or less be the limit of any harddisk, whereas 135 Mbit/sec (which is ~ 17 Mbytes/sec) should be no problem.

  • Kees

    Need some help on Router (E4200) behind Router,

    Hi Steve,

    I’ve been having some troubles with my internet connection lately and called in my ISP. They sent someone to look at things and this cableguy found out that my UBEE cable modem was faulty. So he replaced it with a Cisco EPC3925 EuroDocsis 3.0 2-PORT Voice Gateway.

    This adds a new dimension to configuring my network. Where i fist used my E4200 as an AP to the Internet (via a dumb cable modem), I now have to configure things twice (DHCP, Firewall, etc.), let alone that NAT is now done twice, which is potentially not good for speed.
    The cableguy couldn’t help me out, merely because his job was done and he didn’t know the E4200 that well.

    Can you give me some advice on how to configure my E4200 as the “main” router?

    Regards Kees

    • Ask your ISP to disable the gateway on your modem. That’s what I did with mine. Tell them you want to run it as a “dumb” modem only, and that your router will handle all the routing. It’s not something you can do on your end — customer service will have to do it for you. And even if they say they can’t, insist that you know they can. 🙂

  • Bob

    Steve, thanks for the excellent writeup. I have issues connecting on 5Ghz from my Macbook Retina… tried a second E4200v1 with 22208, still no connection via 5Ghz. Used your settings and for testing I have the 5Ghz radio on a separate SSID. Any suggestions?

    • Bob

      Wanted to share, the resolution was to take a look in the full System Profile output at the Wifi section: it turns out that the Macbook Retina does not support channels above 140. I set the E4200v1 to channel 132 and it works now excellently. Here is the list of the supported 5Ghz channels on the newer Macbook Retina’s:
      36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 100, 104, 108, 112, 116, 120, 124, 128, 132, 136, 140

  • I’m running the STD-USB version and when i run the user interface
    i experience long delays between switching pages ( from 5 to 50secs)
    However the router seems to work normal otherwise.

    Anyone else had this and maybe have a solution for me?

    • Kees

      Hi Dirk,

      Mine does too.
      This could be due to the fact that the router is busy handling traffic. Especially when copyng to/from an attached USB HDD (i guess traffic control has priority over presentation eg screen building).

      Regards Kees

  • Just want to touch on the importance of hard resets, hopefully it will save others the hours of frustration that went into trying to diagnose issues with my router. I had always used stock firmware on the e4200 without any problems. When we had to switch to ATT Uverse due to a move, I had to follow the instructions to set up a bridged router. (Basically adding the WAN IP of the router to the DMZ+ section of the modem.

    Since I had to change the ip of the router as is taken by the modem, I was in the Firmware anyway and had read great things about Tomato. I found Toastman’s latest build and installed it without doing the hard reset before and after. The problems started creeping in right at the beginning, as it would take a few saves for the changes to hold in the Tomato GUI.

    For the most part Tomato did an ok job routing. I have a few PC’s and a few Wifi enabled devices for streaming Netflix/Amazon and smartphones. Tomato would get overwhelmed with too many devices on and I enabled qos. This helped with the traffic but my streaming devices would frequently lose connection and mbps would drop from between 4.5 – 10 to .05. Sometimes I would need to reset the router before speeds would return to normal.

    Frustrated, I tried tweaking nearly every setting. Sometimes the disconnects would happen less frequently, sometimes more frequently but they would not resolve completely.

    I installed DD WRT hoping this would help. It did! Throughput was higher and my Blu Ray player was no longer losing connections. Then I purchased a new TV with built in Wifi (Vizio). The TV’s connection dropped constantly.

    At this point I had literally spent hours tweaking and researching settings. I finally found a post in a forum stressing the importance of the hard reset before AND after flashing. I did the hard resets, installed Tomato (after all the big sell of Tomato is the qos, supposedly able to handle the traffic of hundreds of devices) but the connection problems were back.

    Almost giving up, I flashed back to DD WRT with a hard reset before and after this time. After tweaking the transmit power for W0 (40 mw was too low and caused interference, 50-70 seems to be the sweet spot for me. W1 was set to 50mw per Steve’s settings) no more dropped connections. When I have lost connections it has been due to overload on Netflix servers. My speed will drop drastically on Netflix, I’ll switch to Amazon and get speeds 13 mbps and higher. This was probably another wrench in the works when trying to diagnose the problem. So far, so good. I’ve had uptime for about 2 weeks now with no issues.

    Steve, perhaps you can write an article about how to read the log, as that knowledge probably would’ve helped me pinpoint the issue.

  • Felix

    Thanks for the writeup. Having issues with accessing the 22208 standard USB build, any other links?

    • Felix

      My bad, had my VPN on and it wouldn’t load. Its working now. thanks!

  • im having problems with every other mode except AP…ive done that on all my other routers with dd-wrt but this one idk what the problem is

  • Randy

    Could you assist me in setting up pptp server on dd-wrt. I have tried to vpn to my router but with no success. I have setup a no-ip ddns account and I can ping my domain address, but I cannot vpn. Thanks, Randy

    • Hey, Randy. Sorry – I’ve never had to set up a PPTP server on a DD-WRT router. But I know guys in the DD-WRT forum have, and can shove you in the right direction. There might even be a how-to in the wiki.

  • Joe Wind

    Hi Steve,

    Thanks a lot for this grate tutorial.
    Does your startup script work in another brother router i.e. E3200? It has been hard to find E4200 v1 where I am living.

    And another question is; I have alredy the below startup script for my openvpn:

    Would they work together if I put yours just ahead of it, and/or how do I “separate” them in order to work simultaneously?

    • Hi, Joe.

      Yes – the start up script should work fine for any E-series Linksys router, but make sure you adjust the start up script to remove the sections that apply to eth1 for routers that only have one antenna (single antenna is always just eth0).

      And yes – you can paste my script just after yours and everything should work fine.

      • Joe Wind

        Hi Steve,

        Thanks for the quick reply!
        I have tried your script but I haven’t noticed any improvement. The router is a Cisco E900 (dd-wrt.v24-18946_NEWD-2_K2.6_openvpn_small-nv64k.bin), behind main router, running Openvpn client in the Middle East, server in NY. I have got stuck with a download speed of around 2.7 Mbps (ISP runs 8 Mbps; I get full speed on the main one).
        That is why I’m looking for a router upgrade. From my researches I have found that for Openvpn you need good CPU speed and RAM. I believe throughput plays a role as well, so I’m sticking to the Smallnetbuilder “router charts” too. I have decided for the cost benefit of both E4200 or E3200, plus Cisco/Broadcom reliability and support (DD-WRT).
        As the E4200 v1 is now rare to find, I think I will go for the E3200. I’m aware of the 5 GHz issue, and if I really need it I could also try a Tomato build later.
        Thanks anyway,

  • Anon

    Build 22524 is out! After work, I’ll give it a test.

    • Anon

      Doh, It’s been removed now, for the 4200.

  • James

    Steve – Great article. I’ve been considering moving my E4200 to DD-WRT for a while now to catch up with my old WRT54G, and this looks like the info to follow!

    I noticed in a post way above that you use a dedicated VPN device on your network as well, and I wonder if you have that configured in conjunction with your E4200. If so, would you mind giving me some more info about how you’re configured? If you don’t want to put it here, a direct email reply would be perfectly welcomed. I ask because I wonder what trade-offs were considered in determining your setup. I have been considering adding a dedicated VPN device to my environment as well, and then I found that newer versions of DD-WRT now have better VPN support options than the PPTP support in v23. In the end, I need two subnets into my network – one that is VPN protected and one that is not, and any advice on the best way to set that up via DD-WRT VLANs in conjunction with a dedicated AES VPN would be very helpful.

    Either way, still thanks for this article on DD-WRT tuning. I’ll be installing that and then overclocking it tonight. 🙂

    • I’m actually just running a Windows 2008R2 box at the house as an Active Directory server, and I enabled the RAS function to act as a VPN. Then I just use the port forwarding on the E4200 to forward VPN traffic directly to the Win2K8 box.

      Because I have the Windows VPN stuff running reliably, I’ve never had to even both with attempting to configure the DD-WRT VPN stuff. I know that guys are using it successfully — I’ve just never had the need to become one of them. 🙂

      • slor

        I may try something similar with a dedicated VPN device behind my E4200, but I have a feeling I’m going to find that the one I have actually provides slower VPN than the SSH tunnel I’m currently. PPTP on the router was slower than SSH, and so far I haven’t had the drive to figure out how to set OpenVPN up on it properly.

  • James

    Steve – have you had any luck setting up separate VLANs with build 22208? Installation went seemingly fine, but every time I attempt to move any port to a new VLAN and apply, the router becomes unresponsive and I have to re-flash it. Same result if I leave it unplugged for a while and power it back on. I’ve been attempting variations of the port-based VLAN tutorial on dd-wrt.com, and I am using your recommended STD+USB+SAN build.


    • Hi, James. Sorry, I haven’t messed with that stuff at all. I keep meaning to get around to it.

      • slor

        No worries. And I misspoke above – I didn’t have to re-flash it, but I had to do a hard reset each time. After enough frustration, I actually ended up replacing DD-WRT with a Tomato build by Toastman. Everything on that seems to work great, and vLAN setup was a breeze. Thanks for the replies.

  • Philippe

    Hi Steve,

    I got a E4200v1 too and I was wondering, what make you choose DD-WRT over Tomatoe or even Open-WRT directly ?

    I have a partial explanation which is more features, web UI integrated and less CLI to do.

    I’ve heard to that Tomatoe might be better for Stability than DD-WRT. Might depend on your router model cause I’ve got in the past;

    the good old wrt54g, a cisco E3200 and recently, a E4200 and I never a so much trouble about stability for what I end up using it.

    2 D-Link DIR-615 that I’ve used to extend signal from neigboor internet wireless sharing that goes to thick brick wall. Yeah it was shitty about 20% of the time. Sometime depend on weather but of that 20%, I can say Atheros chips is 65% of the problem too !

    Anyway, all that to know what you think about that as an IT guy like who seem oriented pretty well in networking.



    • Kees

      Hi Philippe,

      After trying several of these DD-WRT builds i’ve switched to the latest Shibby Tomato firmware.
      I find Tomato eassier to maintain (not to many and often confusing or contradictive features). In terms of performance Tomato also comes out on top in with a more stable radio signal (tested with my war drive laptop) and throughput (especially file transfer via the USB port)
      Tomatoe’s stability is OK too, it’s been running here for a few weeks now without any hiccups.
      For now I guess i won’t go for DD-WRT anymore.


  • Chris

    I’ve used the Linksys E4200 V1 router with DDWRT. Unfortunately, I’ve found DDWRT very slow. I’ve only been able to get 30mbps download speed max both wired and wireless, and when I used the stock firmware I get 100+ mbps download speed. I’ve tried factory defaults and tweaked the settings and nothing worked to get faster speeds. I’ve had to resort to go back to stock firmware so I can actually use my router’s full potential.

  • When I look at the status>wireless under packet info :

    Received (RX) 100% 196859 OK, no error
    Transmitted (TX) 46% 2604859 OK, 3061679 errors

    Is this normal?

    Firmware: DD-WRT v24-sp2 (08/19/13) std-usb-nas

    Time: 20:30:52 up 36 days, 1:50, load average: 0.09, 0.06, 0.01

  • Tim

    I’m no computer expert and was looking to optimize my net at home.This guide was down right easy to follow and very comprehensive.Thank you so much for your time – Tim

  • Dan Dimenza

    Hi steve,

    Was wondering if you could comment on a few things. I just recently purchased a e4200v1 and we have both a verizon dsl link as well as a clearwire clear hub both have ethernet ports and both can act as an access point over wifi. Our DSL connection in the area is a little bit inconsistent especially with inclement weather the same is the case with the clearwire hub. Our speeds fluctuate a lot and i would like to combine both the clearwire and verizon dsl connection together outputting it over wifi on the e4200. I’ve been able to do something like this using two connections jacked directly into my laptop and then running a jimmied proxy and speeds are pretty decent using the DownThemAll firefox extension. However i lose the leg room i have with the e4200. Is there any way to combine both connections on the e4200 ?

    I also tend to get a more consistent connection with stock firmware on my e4200 with my mobile devices. I would still like to move to something that will give me more freedom like dd-wrt or open-wrt.

    Thanks for your time.

  • Pizz

    Does build 22208 STD have working QoS?
    I’m upgrading from 21061 as the 5Ghz channel just isn’t working, even after following your guide :\ Thanks!

  • Anon

    22786 is out.


    Thanks Fractal, will load and test it out.

  • Anon

    Naming of the files on the site are now pretty generic. What gives?

  • Josh

    how are your LAN transfer speeds? For some reason my router keeps negotiating to 100 mbit connections, however when I direct connect through unmanaged switch, it bumps back to gigabit, any suggestions?

  • Alex

    link for the trailed build is dead

    • Thanks for the heads up! Remote FTP server apparently deleted them. I’ve decided to always host my “recommended” build locally. Should be fixed now.

  • I upgraded from svn 22000 to 22960 and I noticed a couple noticed. The first is that RFLOW (netflow) is missing from this build. The second is that download speeds are erratic (ranging from 5Mbps to 12Mbps) from one test to the next. I know TWC has its ups and downs, but I don’t recall seeing such a variation between speed tests before.

  • Jesse

    Hi Steve! I have the e4200 router n recently flashed 22960 firmware. im not very good at computer amd tech issues so my question is what do u recommend for my second flash. I have 4 iphones, mac Book & Air and Pad, xbox 360 … plus will b adding the xbox one and smart tv by christmas. I would really appreciate your help. thanks Jesse

    • Hi, Jesse! First, congrats on a successful first flash. Second, the answer to your question will always be in the first paragraph of this article, right where it says “For those reading this post only to find which build I currently recommend, it’s…” That will always show the version of the firmware that I’ve tested and am comfortable recommending for all E4200 users. 🙂

      • Jesse

        Thanks Steve… i will be trying it out.. Do i need to do a 30/30/30 every time i do a flash? and also the settings you recommended should i keep them on the next flash

        • So… the “official” answer is “Yes – you should ALWAYS do a 30/30/30 reset between firmware updates and then go through all the hassle of re-configuring your router.” Now, do I always do that myself? Nope. Of course, I always do a 30/30/30 on the FIRST flash, but after that, I always risk it and just update over the top without resetting. So far its’ worked fine. Of course, I keep all my settings written down in a Google Docs spreadsheet (port forwards, DHCP reservations, etc.) so if the flash goes bad or the router acts weird afterwards, I can do a 30/30/30 and be up and running quickly again. So if you want to chance it, it’s probably going to be fine, but there is some risk in doing so, which is why the “official” answer is always “do a 30/30/30 every time!”

          • Jesse

            That is great advice.. I will giving it a try n tinkering with the setting for my household needs.. I appreciate your fast response to my questions. Thanks

  • Mike Walsh


    First, great site. I’m struggling with an issue. I posted to DDWRT forums but never got any replies. I’m wondering if you have seen this problem ever reported or discussed.

    I spent the weekend Googling and searching the DDWRT archives, but could not find this issue, so please forgive the noob question.

    I have a E4200v1 that I got on refurb a year ago maybe and set it aside until my existing router died recently. I flashed the trailed mini build (18777)as recommended on the wiki, and kept it because my needs are simple.

    I’m running only the 2.4ghz radio, in mixed mode for b/g/n clients with WPA2/AES and a virtual interface in WEP/128 for a few old devices.

    The E4200 worked great until I had a power loss. After the power loss I would get dropped connections on my PCs. I tried rebooting and other troubleshooting, the only thing I found to work was to do a 30-30-30 and reconfigure from scratch (I’ve seen other connection issues reported on stock cleared the same way).

    I had another power loss last week (winter!) and tried various combinations of rebooting, 30-30-30 w/ reload of config, etc. Even the 30-30-30 with reload of config doesn’t work because after the router reboots from the config load, connections start dropping again.

    The connections will continue to drop randomly until I 30-30-30 and manually reconfigure.

    The ONLY thing that seems to work after a reboot or power loss is to 30-30-30 and then manually reconfigure. It works perfect until the next power loss or reboot.

    Has anyone seen this?

    How can I fix this?

    Is it a HW problem?
    (hope not, it’s a refurb way out of return period)

    Will a newer build fix it?

    I’m not doing anything odd on this. All I’m configuring are those two interfaces and not running any other non-default options or services.

    Any help appreciated!

    I’m totally fine with switching builds if you have seen this to fix this issue, but it is used heavily so taking it down can be an issue, and if this is a known HW defect behavior, I’d rather toss in the towel on this one and buy something else….

    • Sorry to hear you’re having trouble. I doubt it’s a HW prob. I suggest you go ahead and flash the mega version of the build I’m currently recommending in this article (links above). This latest version contains newly updated wireless drivers, and I suspect they will fix the dropped connections.

      There have been MANY bug fixes since 18777. The wiki is out of date. It’s fine just to flash the trailed build that I recommend here, and then I recommend doing all the steps I outline for max speed and reliability. You really should consider running the 5GHz radio. You lose nothing from the 2.4GHz by doing so, and if you have any 5Ghz clients (smart phone, tablet, etc.) they’ll really benefit from the lack of interference on that channel.

      Let me know how it works out after you’ve reflashed and tweaked the settings!

      • Mike Walsh

        Thanks Steve. When I get a chance I’ll flash the mega load you recommend as the starting point, and reconfig. I don’t have much to config luckily. I’ll let you know. The fact that something goes haywire on reboot is odd, and the fact that forum posts on the stock e4200v1 had solution as 30-30-30 and manual reconfigure makes me wonder. Hopefully the fractal build has some nice startup code that keeps things clean.

        And, to your point, I was running the 5ghz interface previously, my only issue with it was of course the reduced range, and sadly enough, the devices that can access the 5ghz are also the ones that are used the furthest away from the router. As far as I can tell with this e4200, the biggest drawback is the lack of external antennas. While the router reports better signal/noise ratio for the devices than my old TPLink did, the signal strength reported by my devices is significantly lower and my performance speeds appear to be less than my old TPLink also. All still greater than my cable modem speed, so it’s not a big deal though.

  • Jake

    I just updated to 23040 and when I run the script for inference mitigation the output looks like this now:
    NON-ACPHY. Get/Set interference mitigation mode. Choices are:
    0 = none
    1 = non wlan
    2 = wlan manual
    3 = wlan automatic
    4 = wlan automatic with noise reduction
    ACPHY. Get/Set interference mitigation mode. Bit-Mask:
    0 = none
    1 = desnese based on glitches
    2 = limit pktgain based on hwaci (high pwr aci)
    3 = limit pktgain based on w2/nb (high pwr aci)
    So a value of 7 would enable all three

    Do you know what ACPHY? I tried setting both radios to 7 but I can’t really tell if there’s any improvement. Thanks

  • Ron

    I got the router flashed last night per your recommendations. Speeds are great and I thank you for that. The problem I am having is the router won’t keep broadcasting with AES. I have tried to change it and re-enable AES and it will broadcast for a bit but disappears again. Any suggestions?

  • nixgadget

    Hey Steve, With 23151 im seeing this wierd issue.

    2.4 and 5Ghz were setup according to your post. I set both encryption to AES based. but unfortunatelly SSID isnt broadcasting. If I set 2.4Ghz to TKIP + AES and leave 5Ghz as AES then it works now. Any reason why this is happening ?

    Router is E4200v1 and flashed with DD-WRT v24-sp2 (12/18/13) mega (22786)
    Thanks in advance

    • Hey, Nixgadget. I’m seeing similar issues with 23151 after further testing, so I’m rolling back my recommendation for the E4200 to DD-WRT build 23040 for now.

      • nixgadget

        Yeah I did roll back my version as well. Will give it a thorough test and report back if I find anything. Thanks for this great write up

  • Arnold

    Thank you for posting this in such a great format. Even more appreciation for the fact that you keep it up to date. I used your notes and suggestion for initial flash. Was expecting build no. to report as 23040 in ddwrt, but it reads 22786. Is that normal?

    • Arnold

      Yeah. As much as I read this i must have missed the update at the top. Sorry about that. Again. VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!

    • Yep! Read the first couple paragraphs of the post. It’s a known issue for this build.

  • Ted

    Hey Steve,

    Thanks so much for the info on this site. Some very helpful stuff! I’ve been wanting to flash DD-WRT for a while and finally got around to it. Using the firmware link you have for build 23040, I couldn’t get anything to work! I flashed multiple twice with resets and the router wouldn’t save settings or even change wireless channels (I would set 6 and it would remain at channel 1 despite the setting staying saved).

    I flashed 18777 and that is working well for me at the moment. Maybe I didn’t flash 23040 correctly? What are your thoughts on 23151?

    • Hi, Ted. 23151 has major issues, which is why I don’t recommend it. But keep trying to flash my recommended version. Lots of fixes over the one you’re running.

      • ted

        Got 23040 up now; it took the config from the old build and the speeds are fantastic. the only problem is I still have trouble making any changes to the basic wireless settings page (ssid, ACK timing, channel). Clicking save or apply gives me a request timed out or blank page. This doesn’t happen on any other page or with the 18777 build.

        • Strange… I’m not seeing the same problem with mine. I hate to suggest a 30/30/30 reset in which you’d lose all your settings, but that usually will fix issues like you’re reporting… 🙁

          • ted

            Weird. Being new to this, it may be a silly question, but I presume that a 30/30/30 reset will erase all settings and reset the router name to dd-wrt, right?

            When I hold the reset button at the back of the unit and do a 30/30/30 reset, all the settings remain intact. (meaning holding the button for 90 seconds total, with 30 power on, 30 power off, and 30 power on, then releasing). Am I missing something here?

          • Hey, Ted. You’re right – a “proper” 30/30/30 reset will indeed reset the router to the default DD-WRT settings (including setting the router and WiFi network names to dd-wrt). If that’s not the result, then I’m wondering if something’s strange with your reset. You’ll need a paper clip, and then you hold in the reset button for 90 total seconds without releasing it. After 30 seconds, you pull the power. After 60 total settings, you plug back in, and after 90 seconds, you release the paperclip. Is that what you’re doing, and still not getting default settings on the router?

          • Ted

            Whoops! I was using the wps button and not the reset button.

          • Hehe… well, I didn’t want to come straight out and accuse you of that, but I was thinking that’s probably what was happening… which is why I suggested the paper clip. 🙂 Hopefully, the reset did the trick!

          • Ted

            I’ll try it out and let you know!

          • Ted

            So I finally got around to doing a proper 30/30/30 reset and while I find the 23040 build to be much faster, I still have a lot of trouble applying new settings, mainly on the wireless basic settings page. Saving settings leads to a blank page on apply.cgi and applying settings leads to a connection was reset error message. I’ve tried this in three browers using regular and private modes and deleting cache.

            Any thoughts?

  • Mike Walsh


    First, Happy New Year!

    I installed your recommended build of 23040 mega. It took me a while since Christmas brought a lot of new devices for the kids, and nobody wanted to hear “Dad’s taking down the wireless for a while!”. This morning they seem to be sleeping in!

    I did a 30-30-30 on the old load (18777), loaded in 23040 mega, 30-30-30 on the new load, and then started configuring.

    All seems well except there seems to be an issue with wireless interfaces. Once you enable a third, it seems to futz up the admin access to the router for a while, and then eventually you get back in and see that your changes were not saved or applied.

    I am certain that on 18777 I had both physical and one virtual running at least at one point in time (I had eventually disabled wl1 because the signal was so bad in my house – so this appears to be with this 23040 build)

    I’ve done various 30-30-30s and reboots, and nothing seems to get me beyond this problem.

    (the only piece of new good news is that so far I don’t get an indication of regularly dropping connections after reboot, so I’m hoping it is now stable in case we lose power or my son has to power reset it)

    I’ve done it in multiple orders, first leaving both physical interfaces enabled, and then trying to add my WEP virtual interface (no luck).

    The next time, I disabled wl1 physical interface from the start, configured my wl0 and added virtual interface for my old WEP network SSID. That worked fine. As soon as I try to re-enable the wl1 physical interface, same thing, locked out of admin interface for a while, then eventually it came back (1-2 minutes?), and no changes.

    I can get the same admin interface lockout if I go into Status-SysInfo and toggle the wireless interface selection to wl1.

    I’ve done some Googl’ing on this, but have not found anything that relates exactly or even closely.

    Does this ring any bells? Thoughts? Fixes?

    PS: the other weird thing is I swear I did a 30-30-30 before the final time I configured interfaces, and when I added the virtual interface for my WEP, when I went to the security page my generate key phase was already there! Any idea how that could be? I thought 30-30-30 reset everything.

    • Hmm… that’s a weird one for sure, and no — I haven’t encountered that (although I’m no longer doing multiple networks on mine). However, you say “WEP” — but do you mean WPA? WPA2 is what you should be running.

      • Mike Walsh


        Here’s where I think I’m at.

        First, this router seems to have a reboot issue. I had the fractal load in today, and as mentioned before, I ended up doing a reboot on it. And as before, I got the same loss of internet connectivity issues. I had it hear on my work laptop, and my son had it on his xbox. The connection to the router stays up, but internet connectivity just dies for 15-20 seconds. I run Skype and Google Drive in my tray, so I see it there – maybe others experience it and don’t notice. I know my son gets notified on the xbox that he’s lost connectivity to the gaming server. There is definitely something odd there. I have NEVER had it happen off a 30-30-30 and full reconfigure. Only after a reboot, power loss or otherwise.

        Second, I also swapped in the Kong 22200 build. I forgot to do a 30-30-30 after installation, and I think I couldn’t connect up to wl1, but in any case I did a 30-30-30 and was more careful and I can connect up to wl0, the virtual over wl0, and wl1.

        Third, there is still some weird behavior with these more recent loads where after a Save or an Apply Changes, the web page will not reload. It is less obvious in the Kong build, but still there.

        I have not rebooted, and I’m now connected to a UPS, so I’ve told the family to go beat the heck out of the router and see if it’s now fine. If anyone wants to take the other side of the bet, I’d wager if a reboot occurs, we’ll get the same dropping again.

        I’ll report back and let you all know.

        I can say this, I don’t think I’ve had what I would consider to be a satisfactory wireless router setup for at least the past 5 years. Back in the good ole days I could run on a WRT54G with Tomato or DDWRT (or stock), and things worked perfect. Now, I’ve got 15x the devices, heavy bandwidth use from every corner of the house, and when I read reviews on Newegg it seems like the common complaint from everyone is “I never seem to find a router regardless of the load I use that is worth a darn”. Seems like every router out there is loaded with negative comments on the reviews…..

        In any case, we’ll see. Time to go check in on my testers to see if they’ve been able to kill the router yet!

  • Vincent T

    Hi Steve… had a few question comments.

    My mileage with 23040 has been less than stellar. Curious as to if (or why you don’t) offer a list of you past recommended builds.

    Also I noticed you’ve not suggested any of 3.x builds or any mention Optware.. and wanted to get your thoughts on them.

    • Hi, Vincent. I don’t know of any stable 3.x builds for the E series routers, but it is on my radar. And I’m not sure of the current status of Optware or OWR with the current builds, because I can’t get any official word in the forums.

      As for previous builds, that’s a good idea. I used to recommend 20979 and 22960. But I’ll keep a running list at the end of the article from now on. Thanks for the suggestion!

      • Vincent T

        For a 3.x build I had pretty good success with the 22118 build. I actually went back to the 2.x line to start dabbling with Optware again (something I hadn’t done since I first started with DD-WRT). I’m about to try Kong 22000 (which I’ve heard good things about overall and he’s know to work well with Optware).

        In theory I’d like to go back to the 3.x line and help progress Optware there, but reality says that won’t happen anytime soon.

        If I have really good results with that setup I’ll share so maybe you can recommend something for the more adventurous.

        • Hi, Vincent. I’m not sure if Kong’s current builds work with Optware or not. Please come back and lemme know if you have any success! I’ve been meaning to write an Optware how-to, and any nudges in the right direction concerning which “current” builds will work would be appreciated! Kong’s busy, and has been understandably slow to answer my messages. 🙂

          • Vincent T

            So bit of an update… Optware with the Kong build worked like a charm… although the main Optware feature I use right now is that YAMon (bandwidth monitoring) which is really good. I do seem to have the random wireless drop

            I’m definitely seeing the same weird wireless drop that Mike Walsh mentioned, although I must be honest; I’m not sure if I did the 30-30-30 when I loaded the Kong build. At first I thought it was me or my config, but Mike is having me reconsider that. I may reload with a 30-30-30 and see where that gets me. I have the Backup feature from Optware, so restoring my settings should be alot easier.

            If a reload doesn’t do the trick I may jump back to the 3.x line and give another go at getting Optware going there. I know they’ve made some progress with it.

            More to follow.

          • Great, Vincent. Which Kong build number did you use?

          • Mike Walsh

            First, Steve, is there any way to more easily get to a specific comment? Even if I click on the link in the emails, it sends me to page one, and now I’m doing the trick of “Newer Comments” and then changing/guessing on the page number in the URL manually.

            As far as the random drops problem, I had it on the wiki recommended load (18777), the 23040 fractal and now with kong 22200 also. I posted to DDWRT forum, and never got any responses on the issue. This last time I did a 30-30-30 after plugging it into a UPS, configured, and then took my hands off it. If it ever reboots, or needs rebooting, I’m certain I’ll have to clear it out with a 30-30-30 and reconfig by hand again just like I mentioned. I have seen some indication in forums that some e4200 have shown the exact same behavior of needing 30-30-30 on stock firmware too, so I think it might be a hw issue on certain units. Oh goody!

            If you figure anything out on this problem, let me know.

  • Hi Steve,

    Are you still hosting locally your recommended build? Basmaf’s FTP seems to be down and I can’t seem to find any mirrors. I’ll review my own hosting situation and see if I can also contribute some bandwidth for mirroring purposes if this helps.

    Thanks muchly.


  • Victor

    Hi Steve,

    I am a DD-WRT newbie and came across your blog about installing DD-WRT for Linksys E4200 earlier today – as I was educating myself prior to taking the leap of faith 🙂

    I have a question i was hoping you could help. I am currently using an Apple Extreme router and recently just subscribed to a VPN service. Unfortunately, the Apple router does not play nice to DD-WRT, which is required to install a VPN-wide connection through the router. Also, I would like to continue using my Apple as the “primary” wireless router at home – due to its wireless performance. So my question is – how effective will it be for me to have the E4200 run as a DD-WRT (with VPN setup), and then have a LAN/WAN connection with the Apple router? This means that all clients/devices will only connect wirelessly to the Apple Router. Will this work? Would the E4200 connection (or bridging via cable) have any detrimental effect on my Apple router’s wireless performance?

    Your feedback would be much appreciated.

    • Hi, Victor. If I understand your setup properly, then yes – what you’re doing is called “double NAT.” You’ve got a router behind a router, and that will work fine! 🙂

      • Victor

        Hi Steve,
        Thanks for your reply.
        I managed to run/install the DD-WRT successfully on my Linksys router 🙂
        Unfortunately, I am unable to connect to my VPN service (VyprVPN).
        I have contacted support but still to no avail.
        I am wondering if it has something to do with my ISP’s triple-play modem/router in my house.
        If you have any inputs re VPN (especially VyprVPN), would be grateful!
        Wishing you and your family a blessed and successful NY ahead!

        • Hi, Victor. I’ve actually never used any of my routers with VPN, apart from just port forwarding through it to a separate VPN server that I have running on one of my internal home servers that I use while travelling. Please let us know if you get it figured out!

  • Luis

    Link for dd-wrt.v24-23040_NEWD-2_K2.6_mega-e4200.bin is down 🙁

  • Aaron

    How can I get tcpdump installed, i remember I had that on my old router (e2000 w/ddwrt) but this e4200 doesn’t have it.


    • Hey, Aaron. Sorry, I’m not a tcpdump user. Have you tried in the DD-WRT forums?

  • deathpulse


    Excellent site – this is my “go to” site whenever I upgrade my 4200v1. One quick comment – it seems that disabling afterburner (rather than setting it to “auto”) gives me the most speed by FAR. In fact, my computer went from 18 or Mbit to 98 Mbit with just this single setting. Not sure this will work for everyone but figured I would try to contribute as much as possible to this very excellent resource!

  • Rob Fritz

    When setting up a Repeater Bridge to interface with this router, are there any considerations with regard to the channel selection and the advanced radio settings (Frame Burst, Preamble,Afterburner). The DDWRT wiki says to make the radio parameters the same, but as soon as the operating mode is set to RB, the settings are removed/disabled. So do RB’s boot up and do some sort of channel / frequency sweep to re-pair to the master router?

  • patrick

    Steve. Just flashed my E4200V1 to the above mentioned firmware.
    Runs stable.
    But having issues with mounting NTFS formatted USB disks.
    Before flashing to dd-wrt ii had access to all my NTFS formatted disks
    After flashing my disks are recognised but not mounted with the notification “Not mounted – Unsupported file system or disk not formated”
    Is this a known issue.
    All other settings are correct.

  • Rob

    I’ve got an e4200 AP and an e4200 RB. Since each router has 2 MAC addresses for wireless, when looking at the AP wireless client table, shouldn’t I see both RB’s MAC’s? I’m following the threads which state that wl1 should not be left to auto and that prior to RB mode selection, it should be set to match the AP. But I have had no luck getting getting a connection between routers on wl1, only wl0.

  • Hi Steve,

    I followed your instruction for the Linksys E4200 and I am pleased to report that I have your recommended DD-WRT installed and working perfectly.

    I do have a question that I am hoping you might be able to help me with?

    I have installed the OpenVPN Server running VyprVPN on this build as per the recommendations from Giganews and although everything is working, the connection through the OpenVPN Server is extremely slow.

    I have a 120 Mbit Cable Internet Connection however the OpenVPN connection only appears to run at around 2Mbits

    Do you have any experience with settings that I should consider tuning to improve this or can you point me somewhere that I can get some assistance?

    Many thanks in advance and thanks for the great E4200 advice and an excellent Blog.

    Best Regards,

    Mike Scheerer

  • Pingback: OpenVPN / VyprVPN and DD-WRT Router » Mike Scheerer()

  • Johnny Mezzanin


    After few years using DD-WRT on dir-825 and e4200
    as always LINUX BASED devices DONT WORK they are not stable and require ALWAYS REBOOTS!!!!!!!
    i get ONLY 3- 4 mb wifi connection ON e4200 while with stock firmware I HAVE NO PROBLEMS AT ALL,
    NOW LINUX IS NOT MORE A YOUNG OS….(15 years) AND IS PURE SH*T!!!!!!!!!
    enter COMMAND PROMPT do this and that for HOURS to get a STUPID RESULT!!!!
    F**K LINUX and the id*ots who create it and who are spending their lives to build SH*T

    • Um… yeah. I’d be there’s just a small handful of people who might disagree with your assessment of Linux. But if the stock firmware works for you, then there’s nothing wrong with running it!

      I’m not sure what OS you’re using to write your comment, but whichever it is, you might want to check your caps lock. I THINK IT’S STUCK ON!!!!! 😉

  • Rk

    So I’m running BS K3.x 23720 (e4200 build, not nv60k) . Is it safe to flash straight back to dd-wrt.v24-23040_NEWD-2_K2.6_mega-e4200 ?

    • Yes. Always safe to flash a trailed build to the correct device.

  • Jerry

    Can you please fix the link for downloading the firmware? I’ve tried navigating DD-WRT forum and couldn’t find a working link to download 23040 build. Thank you.

    • Rob

      I’ve searched everywhere as well and the only reference I can find to the 23040 build is this blog and one for another router which link to the same broken site. If someone who has it could upload it somewhere, maybe we could find another place to host it permanently.

    • Sigh. Yeah, looks like those links are down on Basmaf’s FTP server. The only locally stored version I could find on my systems is the mega build, so I’ve updated the mega links for 23040 to one of my servers. I’ll keep looking for the mini and std links, too. 🙂

  • Matthew

    Hi Steve, Are you still using 23040? I can’t seem to download the version from the link you provided. Are you able to host the files?


    • Hi, Matthew. I’ve hosted the mega for now, and am trying to find the other builds so I can host them, too.

  • Redeye Dog

    Finally got an e4200. I know you may have moved on to newer routers but was that the last build 23040 you ended up using reliably. Thanks for the write up. Very helpful!

    • Hey, Redeye Dog. Nope! Haven’t had the need to “move on to newer routers.” The E4200 is STILL awesome! 🙂

  • Kent

    Hi Steve,

    I was wondering if you might be making any comments on build recommendations vis-a-vis the heartbeat bug that would be a vulnerability for those using DD-WRT’s OpenVPN, which uses OpenSSL.

    Btw, I find your DD-WRT articles are very helpful.


  • Kent

    “heartbleed” I mean.

  • rhfritz

    I have been having continuous problems with e4200 builds 21061 and 23838 specifically with regards to Client Bridge and Repeater Bridge modes. And I think it applies to other builds/modes where I’ve read in other threads where people are having issues with radio wl1 not connecting.

    Suffice it to say that I now have five e4200 v1’s that I’ve unsuccessfully attempted for months to integrate/replace into a configuration that has been working for years with wrt54g’s. I have a main access point connected to my cable modem plus a client bridge and some repeater bridges. So I have a lot of experience properly configuring with these settings. I had attempted to replace the wrt54g’s with faster N-capable routers. What I have found is that the 54g’s with older fw versions will work with an e4200 main access point, but no more than one e4200 can be a bridge and co-exist with any other routers of any type on the network. So I ended up with 5 e4200’s so I could attempt to setup a parallel network to understand what was going on and rule out a defective router.

    There are multiple symptoms, but what ultimately happens is that after the second bridge is added, you lose communications with all the routers and end up unplugging them. And when you plug them back in one at a time, you discover that they’ve all reset back to default settings. After this happened a few times on my main network, resetting even the 54g’s, that’s when I started down the parallel network approach.

    What makes the issue difficult to track down is that when configuring a bridge, the radio channel settings must be the same as the main router. But as soon as you change the Wireless Mode to a Bridge, the wireless channel settings are hidden/taken way. And the only way afterwards to understand what is going on is to be on the Status + Wireless tab on both the main and bridge routers. And what I found is that the wl1 channel settings often don’t stick after they’re set.

    My test case is as follows. I have my main router set with wl0 on Channel 6 and wl1 on Channel 9. When you join a client to your main router, the MAC address of your client will be associated with the interface to which it connected. For example, your iPhone MAC will be shown to be joined to either eth0 or eth1 depending on whatever criteria the iPhone uses to connect. In my case, when connecting an e4200 bridge, you would expect connections from Channel 6 eth0 to eth0 and Channel 9 eth1 to eth1. What I found was that even though the bridge was being set properly, on the main router client table, I’d sometimes see the MAC’s for both wl0 and wl1 connected to the same interface eth0 channel 6. Then I’d go look at the
    Status + Wireless tab on the bridge to discover that both interfaces were using 6. So I’d go back to the wireless tab, change the Wireless Mode to AP and Save settings so I could see the channel settings again, and see that wl1 was still showing channel 9 while being on 6. So I’d set the settings away from 9 to 1, save the settings. Then I’d set them back to 9 and Save. Then I’d set the mode back to Repeater Bridge and Save, hiding the settings again. Then I’d click Apply. Then on the main router I might but not always see the proper connections on eth0 and eth1. One time eth0 & eth1 came up not as 6 & 9 but as 9 & 6. Regardless, if I rebooted the router, wl1 would invariably move somewhere else, once to not either 6 or 9.

    Other symptoms I’ve seen:
    1) When using a laptop to configure a client bridge router, after applying the configuration and rebooting the router, the laptop reported it was being given a conflicting IP Address. This causes the laptop to shut down LAN access. But comparing the laptop’s IP and to the main router’s client table shows there is no conflict. Can DHCP still be running on the bridge when it shouldn’t be?

    2) Amazon Prime Streaming sometimes hangs for no apparent reason. I typically use Amazon Prime streaming via my Smart TV through the Client Bridge. When it does hang, even after a fresh reboot, at times I’ll see Error Counts in excess of 10,000. But last night I ran a 50ft cable from my TV directly to my main router to rule out wireless issues. I still had to restart the movie several times. Restarting the Bridge and/or Main router doesn’t make a difference. But if I use a Home Theater PC to watch youtube also via the Client Bridge, I have no issues. I don’t have NetFlix, but Amazon Prime streaming is talked about elsewhere as being somehow different from NetFlix.

    Steve prefers version 23040. But I can’t locate a source for 23040 to test it. And it’s very difficult to establish what changes between these builds anyway because the DDWRT version description documents don’t appear to be updated except for vague / unspecified checkmarks for “compatibility.”

    So I’ve posted this message here so perhaps someone who has the source and the ability to debug it might come across this message. I’d be glad to test any release someone might produce. But as I’ve been trying to move to an identical set of N routers, preferably a dual frequency, I’m shortly going to give up on this set and do something different. If someone has had success with a main + bridges using another brand of router or a different build of DDWRT, I’d welcome the opportunity to have a discussion with them.

  • Patrick Hurley

    The 22000M Kong build has a date of 4-14-2014. Are you installing very new builds on your production 4200 or testing them first?

    • Hi, Patrick. Great question. 22000 is actually a very well-tested build. The “M” means it’s been modified with the OpenSSL fix. Everything else in the build is from the original 22000 version source, so it’s production-ready. I’m running it on mine and haven’t been able to break it for the past 24 hours.

  • Patrick Hurley

    Hi Steve,

    I have never been able to get my 2nd radio running 5Ghz N to work consistently with my iPad or iPhone. It freezes then kicks them over to the 2.4Ghz radio. I can test this by using a different SSID. Because you are using the same SSID for both radios, you’d never really know. Is this an inherent issue with 5Ghz on the 4200?

    • Hey, Patrick. I’ve heard of this issue with the E3000 I believe, but not with the E4200. And in fact, there IS a way you can check to see which antenna is connected with which clients. Go to Status tab, Wireless sub-tab, then check the Clients section down bottom under Wireless Nodes. In the Interface column, eth1 is connected to the 2.4GHz, and eth2 is connected to the 5Ghz. I just checked mine right now, and I’ve got Apple clients showing on eth2 just fine! Not sure if it matters, but on mine I currently have NG-Mixed on wlo0 (eth1/2.4Ghz) and N-Only 5Ghz on wl1 (eth2/5 Ghz).

  • Philippe

    Hey Steeve,

    Thanks for the notice about the kong firmware for the Heartbleed Open-SSL issue. I was wondering if anyone who got a e4200 have packets lost for TX like I do over time ? Not sure if it’s an issue about the Broadcom model in it or about a DD-Wrt settings .. Might be both but the problem seem to still be there with different settings / different dd-wrt version. It seem to be related to 5ghz network for me I think .. Anyway it’s not a big deal but when I stream music to an HTPC who got XBMC trought Airplay, it sometime cut for a second ..

    Hope the Kong’s firmware help ..

    • I’ll be really interested to see if the Kong firmware addresses that issue. Please report back!

      • Philippe

        I confirm that it definitively help. Lot less packet loss in upload on 5 Ghz Network with that firwmare.. Great news so far …


  • Redeye Dog

    Thanks for the updated kong build. As soon as I learned that your old recommendation suffered from the heartbleed bug, it was a no brainer. I’m having a problem with kong though.

    I setup both antennas with the same ssid and everything was working great until I began setting up static leases and MAC filtering. I still haven’t put my finger on exactly what the cause is but the effect is NO WIRELESS.

    I’m writing this from a wired computer. I have used DD-WRT before but I had trouble with the newer builds so I moved to Tomato, Shibby’s build. It was pretty good but my connection strengths weren’t so good. So now I’m back here. I noticed that kong’s build has TWO(2) MAC filtering lists, one for each antenna, which I populated both with all the MACs I want to allow. This is to extend the idea of being able to hop between antennas as needed. This may be where the problem is, however. Not sure. I believe other DD-WRT builds only had one pool of MACs.

    You could argue that having two pools of MACs provides better control by restricting use of a particular antenna, I suppose. But it seems to have the effect, in my case, of paralyzing the DHCP server when the same MACs are populated in both MAC filtering lists.

    Any ideas on how I can manage this to support your original idea of providing easy hopping between antennas but while restricting wireless to specific MACs?

    • Hey, Red. Hmm… No wireless = no bueno. I don’t use MAC filtering (just WPA2 with AES), so I don’t have any first-hand experience troubleshooting that. If you disable the MAC filtering, does wireless come back?

      • Redeye Dog

        I tried disabling MAC filtering and at the time, it did not resolve the problem. I ended up returning to factory defaults and trying again. This time I changed the order of setting things up and all the MACs were accepted. I have a theory. I was also doing static leases when this first occurred. After saving and then “applying,” that’s when everything broke!

        I went back and looked at my MAC filtering lists and somehow, my 2.4 antenna list reverted to “prevent clients listed.” No idea how that happened. Meanwhile, in entering my static leases, something happens when I enter the 25th lease. I get an error message indicating that the host name is using illegal characters. It is not.

        I wonder if the static lease function is limited to 24 static leases? I allowed for 25 DHCP clients but that shouldn’t matter. I certainly cannot find any documentation which says there is a 24 lease maximum. At the moment, wireless works but this continues to be work in progress.

        • Great update. Not sure why there’d be a 23 client limit, but if it works with 24 and breaks with 25, then chances are you’ve discovered a bug. You should report it to Kong (or to another DD-WRT dev) in the forums. It may be fixed with subsequent builds, but they rely on power users to find that kind of deep-down stuff. 🙂

          • Redeye Dog

            Great! If I can find the appropriate location to submit a kong bug, I certainly will do that. Anything to assist in the good work being done with DD-WRT. That said, thanks for keeping your blog alive. It’s a plethora of useful information.

  • Bazz

    I just wanted to say thanks for keeping up on this post after all this time. Anytime I wonder if I should update, this is the first place I check. Thanks again!!!! In My world… You rock!!

  • Joe

    I know this is an old thread but I hope you still monitor it. I ran an E4200 router with stock firmware until I introduced Apple products into the WiFi mix. When I did, the router started randomly rebooting and general performance sucked.

    Fast forward.. I did a lot of research on the router and it said it was a common problem people had. Most people fixed that by installing third-party firmware. I decided to try it because I don’t have money for a new router. When I installed DD-WRT, my speed immediately dropped from 100Mbps+ to 30-50Mbps+. I thought I had found the solution by following your settings.

    I meticulously followed your instructions changing everything that you instructed. My speeds now are 15-20 Mbps.

    I am at my wits end with this stupid router. Any suggestions?

  • Bazz

    So I have been fight with ad block. Any idea haw I can get it to work with this setup?
    I’ve tried this set up http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCgQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dd-wrt.com%2Fwiki%2Findex.php%2FAd_blocking&ei=r_xTU4byM8PgsASc-4GQBA&usg=AFQjCNHrGLroAnUvy6QYt2wxyMxPOnvVkg&sig2=DuBPreibhThg3f-5ovm_Vw&bvm=bv.65058239,d.cWc

    This one http://blog.joelchristian.com/?p=264

    And this http://www.howtogeek.com/51477/how-to-remove-advertisements-with-pixelserv-on-dd-wrt/

    I use to have the last one working on one of my older routers and I loved it. I so wish I could have it work on this one. Any ideas?
    Thanks… and sorry.. I know its a derailment on the subject..

    • @Bazz
      I would love to know about the pixel server ad-blocking options as well @Bazz

  • Neel

    Hey Steve,
    Firstly thanks for the awesome guide! I’ve been using DDWRT for years but never got these sort of speeds.

    I’ve followed your configuration exactly, and the only issue I’m having really is with my PS3 (wireless). Previously on stock firmware, i’d get the occasional lag but now on DDWRT kong build I’m getting quite a bit. I don’t want to go back to stock because all my other devices are preforming much better, but was wondering if you had any tips to get better latency or better connection?

    I’ve tried to make changes to QOS but it hasn’t really helped. Any other advice would be fantastic.

    Thanks again.

  • Dank

    Hey Steve,

    Big Thank you for this great guide, I have been following it for a while now 🙂

    I have a questions if you ever saw this happen,
    I have a Gigabit connection where I live and manage upwards of 800MB/s when connected directly to the pc but when passing the connection through the e4200 I cannot get above 102MB/s.

    I have tried a lot of things but was never able to figure it out.
    Did you ever see this.

    Really appreciate your article, keep up the good work


  • Vasco

    First that all, thanks for tutorial, your help is really appreciated, but, i followed several times (at least 3) all details of it, the last time i was very strict with follow details.. And my router don’t reach at the speed that you say, even, i just have 3MB/s from my local NAS in both wifi signals, and inSSIDer says the 2.4ghz signal just have 144mbps max rate, is really strange.

    On wired connection (gigabit) i get 23MB/s from local NAS

    With “mega” build i get 12MB/s on 5ghz, and 6MB/s on 2.4ghz. in default settings, and no problems with inSSIDer but i think the speeds are still low.

    My wireless card is a intel centrino n6300 450mbps.

    I really apreciate if you can put on network any config file backup, for proof in my router.

    greetings from Chile.

  • Jan beckerman

    What is the latest firmware for the e4200 v1 that you recommend and can you tell me where to download it. thanks

    • Hi, Jan. I appreciate all comments, but please forgive me if my reply to this one sounds a bit cheeky. If you were anywhere else online, and posted this question, my reply would be to link to this article. It’s always contains two things: 1) The latest firmware I recommend for the E4200v1, and 2) a download location for that recommended build. Reading the article should answer both your questions. 🙂

  • Gerald Scott

    I moved my router to another room causing my girlfriend to complain about the slow response times. Now it is faster than before, so thank you for saving my relationship.

  • dru

    Hey Steve,

    Thanks for the awesome post. You clear up many questions i have regarding flashing my e4200. All the information is there in a well organized and easy to understand manner. So thanks again!

  • steve thanks for the awesome tutorial i know a lot of people are going to benefit from this.
    i was wondering however if the kong build also fixes the 7 new openssl vulnerabilities discovered this past week. there were only 2 that were critical out of the 7 if i remember correctly

    thanks again

  • I’m still running the 23040 firmware can you explain when
    i can expect to be vulnarable bc of the openssl bug?

    Is it only when i run it as a webserver (which i dont) ?

  • Robyn

    I just used your settings for my ea6500 and was wondering if you think the scrip will actually do anything or if its more designed for the e4200

  • Kent

    HI Steve,

    I’m sure all you’d like is more work, but I was wondering if there’s any way to put a button at the end of the article that would lead to the last page of the comments.
    I think we’re on page 17 now, right ?
    Someone new coming in would probably have to click through sixteen pages to get to the end.
    Just an idea.
    All the best,

    • I’ll look for a plugin or mod for that. It’s a great idea. 🙂

      • Kent

        I somehow have a rough idea of the page number in my head, then change the number in the url to that, and it usually works.
        I don’t know how much trouble it’d be for the meantime, but perhaps you could put something at the end of the article like “Comments are now at page 17” ?

        Anyway, thanks very much for all your postings and advice on DD-WRT firmware.
        Until I found your advise and explanations I used to dread installing or updating DD-WRT, because so much time would go by since my last mind numbing research project for it that I’d forget how I made it through the labyrinth.

        I can’t believe the DD-WRT site still has so many pages for that, that you’re actually not supposed to be using. It’s not a good sign when the recommended path is to spend a lot of time in the forums to figure out.
        But hey, we have Steve !

        The actual install is easy, but getting to that point could otherwise be a bit of a workout.

        Thanks again !

  • Patrick Hurley

    I am using an E3000 right now. Is kingkong-nv60k-broadcom-22000M.bin okay for that router too? How is your wifi stability?

    • I’ve heard that the E3000 has some 5GHz issues, but not sure if that extends to the Kong builds, too.

  • Kent


    What do you make of this . . .
    I was just reading up on the DD-WRT site – thinking about installing OptWare on my DD-WRT.
    On the page for that, under Service Explanations you will see “4.6 Fixtables”.


    In that section it says, :

    Fixtables – This service is used to fix a firewall rule-set bug that is present in all K26 firmwares. K24 is not affected. The service also contains VITAL security measures against current DD-WRT builds! It is highly recommended to use.

    With your recommended Kong build, aren’t we using a K26 ?

    Just curious if you’ve ever heard anything about that.

    All the best,

    San Francisco

  • Lucas

    Hello Steve, awesome post.

    I’ve set up my E4200 v1 according to your instructions.

    In addition, I have created a guest Wi-Fi and subnet and have used firewall commands in order to isolate it from all other subnets.
    Since I also want to limit its download and upload speed, I have also enabled QOS using the GUI and set upload and download limits (Manual priority) for the guest subnet. The reason I’m not using commands for this is that afaik upload limiting does not work using commands.

    Everything seems to go well. However, the router freezes once per day. It may have to do with conflicting settings between my commands, and the QOS GUI. How can I “debug” this problem?

    Keep up the good work!

  • Ken Erickson

    Really appreciate the time and effort you put into this post, it was extremely helpful in setting up my E4200. Everything is working well except my two wireless bands can’t talk to each other. If I have a machine connected to 2.4ghz (eth1) it can see LAN machines and the WAN, if I have a machine connected to 5ghz (eth2) it can also see LAN machines and the WAN but neither of these two machines can see each other (i.e. ping each other). I have setup both 2.4ghz (wl0.1) and 5ghz (wl1.1) guest networks also. The guest networks operate correctly (I haven’t tested to see if they can see each other yet). For the guest networks I created br1 with different IP and created two bridge assignments, current bridging table:
    br0 no vlan1 eth1 eth2
    br1 yes wl0.1 wl1.1
    Only firewall rules I have are:
    iptables -t nat -I POSTROUTING -o `get_wanface` -j SNAT –to `nvram get wan_ipaddr`
    iptables -I FORWARD -i br1 -m state –state NEW -j ACCEPT
    iptables -I FORWARD -i br1 -o br0 -m state –state NEW -j DROP

    So what does it take to allow the two wireless networks to talk to each other?

    • Shane Forsythe

      Hey Ken,

      Did you get bridging to work? I want to buy new wireless router and try this build but need to be able to bridge specific MAC/ip address from the wifi to the LAN.

      • Ken Erickson

        Wifi to lan works fine the only problem I have is 2.4ghz to 5ghz lan and it is a matter of getting the right firewall rule in place. I haven’t had time to try and figure out the correct rule yet.

  • Tony

    Hi Steve,

    I echo the thanks of others for this awesome tutorial, a huge help from installation all the way through.

    I find that my router crashes a lot when I enable QoS. The above comment sounds familiar but withoutt the guest network and corresponding firewall commands. Others have trouble with QoS on DD-WRT. Apparently just the fact that it’s enabled is the problem. Perhaps it’s a memory issue with the packets. Anyway, I had the impression that the Kong build doesn’t have this QoS issue, but I couldn’t be sure from what I have researched, so I’ve been afraid to flash that build only to have it not solve the problem. Flashing is in convenient for my household, so I really was hoping to be sure it would do some good to flash again. What is your experience with this build and QoS when compared to other builds?

  • Rob Fritz

    I wasn’t doing anything as sophisticated as this bridging. I replaced my main router with a 4200, but I never got repeater bridge or client bridge to work with more than one E4200 “client”. The radio issues were maddening. You’d configure channel and frequency and when you added the second client, you’d get random resets. I was trying to replace a main router and 3 clients with E4200’s. Initially I thought I had a hardware issue and bought an extra. So now I have 4 gathering dust on the floor in my office and am still running my old clients. They’ll go up on eBay as soon as I decide on something different.

  • arne van theemsche

    hi… i happen to install the version of the router database (silly me), and now found this page. Can I upgrade a stable build to a kong release on my e4200 without loosing the config, our will I have to start from scratch?


    • Hi, Arne. If I’m upgrading to a newer build from the same builder (Kong, in this case), then I’ll usually just risk it and upgrade over the top, keeping my config. However, if you’re going from the database version to my recommended Kong version, you should do screen captures of your config pages, do a true 30-30-30 reset before upgrading, and then re-do your config. You’re asking for trouble otherwise. Also, you should NOT save a config file from a previous build and then load it on to a newer build. Config backup files should ONLY be used on the exact same version of a build. I know it’s less than ideal, but it’s the right way to go.

  • Hi thanks for a very comprehensive blog post. I already had dd-wrt but I was unsure as to which build to upgrade to so I tried the Kong build however I’ve found that the 5hz band is not acting as it should, often i find it doesnt connect to the internet or has good speeds and then suddenly drops. Can you think of what could cause this? Are there issues with the 5ghz band with ddwrt?

    • Just as follow up, I went through the settings again and it turns out I missed some earlier steps and im now getting 80mb in my room! Thank you so much for this blog post.

  • Wade

    Hi Steve, Thank you so much for this blog and keeping it up to date. I would like to add printer server support to my e4200 w/DD-WRT for my Canon printer. I’ll be upgrading to your latest Kong recommendation this week. I’ve found sites describing 3+ ways to add printer servers. Do you have a recommendation? If it matters — the clients are all linux and the printer is currently shared on a Win7 box.
    Thanks, Wade

    • Hi, Wade. Hmm… I’ve never used mine for print servers, as all the printers on my network have either wired or WiFi interfaces. Let us know what you find out — could be another good blog article 🙂

      • Dan

        i would also like to see some love for printers as well as HFS and HFS+

  • Jake

    When i follow this guide i cannot get more than 145mbit out of the router over ethernet.. thats quite a bit under my internet connection. Got any idea? 🙂

  • Phillip Trapp

    Hi. Was just curious why you recommend Fractal’s trailed build? Why does it matter which trailed build you use if you are going to turn right around and flash Kong Mega? Are drivers carried over from the trailed build? I was under the impression that a flash of Mega wipes out everything and installs anew. Love your blog!

    • Hi, Phillip. You’re absolutely right – it really doesn’t matter which trailed build you use, as long as it really is trailed. No drivers are carried over from the previous build. Any trailed build that is specific to the unit will work fine. 🙂

  • Manuel

    Will installing this increase LAN speeds and decrease ping times. I ask because I am not as concerned with wifi as my most important devices are connected via ethernet.

  • Ang

    Hi Steve, i followed the instructions here and successfully flashed my E4200. i followed the same configurations. i have 2 issues:

    1. i can’t get any good speed. in fact very bad speed. looking at the info page, for wl0, i get the rate between 19 – 52mbps. for wl1, i get 1 – 13mbps only! i also tried hard reset, so i use the default settings, but i still get the same rate. i used android wifi analyzer and it is showing the same rate.

    2. i cant connect wirelessly to the router using my laptop. i can see the ssid but the bar is showing no signal. empty bar. i get error message “Windows was unable to connect to “. i am using windows 7 pro.

    pls advise. thank you.

    • Ang

      i managed to solve issue #2. I tried changing the Wireless SSID Broadcast between Disable and Enable then I can connect to it.

      for issue #1, now the speed automagically runs between 39 – 65mbps. still quite low. i did disable wl1. i will continue to test.

  • Ray

    Hello Steve I use your Blog all the time and this one has been a huge help for me I also need to use USB Printing any word yet? Thanks

  • Shirin

    This is probably the best laid out instructions for setting up a DD-WRT router I’ve seen. The Kong version that you recommend is truly stable and great to work with. Thanks for sharing this!

  • Eban

    If I want to change from Tomato to DD-WRT do I simply write the stock firmware back (performing the 30-30-30 reset method first of course) to the router then forward with the DD-WRT firmware?

    • Hi, Eban. Yes — that’s the recommended way to go from Tomato to DD-WRT. There’s a chance things could go wrong if you try to go directly from one third-party firmware directly to another. Good luck! 🙂

  • Kong’s build has broken ftp protocol, it’s a shame this has not been fixed as it’s a more than year old issue.
    Wireless signal on 5GHz is a little worse than on 18496 build.
    Also there is no hardware NAT, which pretty much kills any DD-WRT option if you’re having an 1000Mbps connection coming next month.

  • Hi Steve,

    I’ve been following your blog for some time. Thanks for the great tips on the Linksys E4200.

    Have you implemented and used OpenVPN on the E4200? If so, what has been your experience with it, good or bad? I currently run OpenVPN from the command line of my Synology DiskStation. The issue is that it doesn’t allow me to access it via Dynamic DNS once the VPN is enabled. So, I was thinking to let the E4200 handle the OpenVPN responsibilities with selective routing at the port level enabled. Can the E4200 with DD-WRT handle this effectively?

    One other detail point out. I’m currently traveling abroad, so my friend is hosting my server hardware behind his LAN (10.10.1.x), effectively making my hardware LAN 2 (10.15.225.x). He’s opened up a DMZ to my LAN by assigning an IP to my E4200 on his LAN 1.

    If I were to go the OpenVPN route on my E4200, do you foresee any issues with this particular setup?

    Thanks in advance.

    • Hi, Mark. Sorry, but no… I haven’t messed with the VPN stuff inside DD-WRT. I run a Windows 2008 R2 server in my house, and that handles all my VPN stuff. I just forward the appropriate VPN ports through my DD-WRT router directly to the separate VPN Server. I do get asked about the best way(s) to configure OpenVPN on the DD-WRT routers a lot, tho. So I may just have to set up a test and tinker with it for a while, for the sake of a blog post. 🙂

      • Hi Steve, I flashed the 22000++ KingKong build on my e4200 and run OpenVPN via the command line. I’ve also set it up to have certain traffic bypass the VPN.

        So far so good after about 3 weeks. Let me know if you’d like any information about it.


  • Hey Steve,

    Nice guide. Was actually looking to fix up my e4200 that is currently running build 20202. Installed it back in 2012 and I haven’t really mucked around with it. Unfortunately the place I’ve moved into seems to have some odd signal issues for our wireless.

    About 30 feet away, near the bathroom and one of my roommate’s bedrooms, there’s barely any signal whatsoever. Taking a look at average SNR values, they hover anywhere from 9-12.

    Tried poking around and raising my antenna transmitter mW to 100 (@2.4GHz) and 105 (@5GHz) and mucking about with the channels, etc… But to no avail.

    I’m considering tossing on another build. Would it be possibly to directly upgrade from 20202 to the 23040 trail build you mention? Was thinking of trying Kong’s bundle out and see how that works out (not to mention, avoiding heartbleed is a big plus).

    The only other solution I’m seeing to this situation is to try and mount the e4200 in the hallway somewhere on the wall. Might help matters a little.


    • Hi, ET. I’d start by running some sort of WiFi scanning software (I use inSSIDer) to find the least congested channels. Next, the higher you can mount the unit in the house/apartment, the better.

      To answer your question, yes… it’s possible to go direct to the Kong build as long as you have any version of DD-WRT already on board. But I still strongly recommend the 30-30-30 reset! 🙂

  • Pat

    Hi Steve, I am also running a Linksys WRT54G V5 as a client bridge. May I ask if you have a Kong build for that unit link in your stash? Thank you so much.

  • Martin Rubenstein


    I’m so perplexed by how difficult it is to find info on the “best” or the “right” build for my Linksys WRT54GL, that I might even consider buying an E4200 just so that I can gain the benefit of the expertise in your blog, thereby avoiding the dog’s breakfast of confusing information on which DDWRT build to use. However, Amazon reports that the E4200 is superseded by the “newer model” N900,, and I don’t suppose for one minute that the settings and advice in your blog would read across to that model? I suppose I could always look for an E4200 on ebay? What are your thoughts?


    • Hi, Martin. I have an old WRT54GL router in use on my network as a Client Bridge. I’ve been running build “14929 std” on it for years. It’s rock solid stable. The DD-WRT Wiki suggests initially flashing with the 12548 mini NEWD Eko build (I agree), before going to a later build (like 14929). Keep in the mind the WRT54GL is not big enough to run Mega builds.

  • Umar

    Hi, I am facing a big issue with my DDWRT firmware. Currently I am using the one recommended by you but I have tested this on different version as well. I am using freeradius server for my user authentication set the WPA2 enterprise security. Now the problem is when I reboot the router my users are unable to get access from radius server. I have to access the AP and press the apply settings button to make it functional. However When I use the default firmware of E4200 (Which comes with the box) everything works fine I dont face any authentication issue on reboot. Please help.

    • Yikes. Sorry, but I have zero experience using the Radius stuff with DD-WRT. I’d recommend posting in the forums and I’m sure that someone with more experience will hook you up!

  • Jason Kendall

    I was reading your post about the optimized dd-wrt settings for your E4200 router an noticed you recommended kingkong-nv60k-broadcom.bin (22000++). I currently am running DD-WRT v24-sp2 (04/14/14) kingkong (SVN revision 22000M). Do you know if the one you are recommending is a newer build date or if there are any differences between the two? Any help is greatly appreciated and thanks again for the how-to’s!!!

    • Hi, Jason. Yes, there is a newer build date available. If you look at the Kong’s repo (http://www.desipro.de/ddwrt-ren/K26/) you’ll see that there is a directory with a build date of June 7, 2014. That’s the latest Kong build for this router, which includes the fix for the Heartbleed issue.

  • Jason Kendall

    Thanks for the quick reply! Since this is an upgrade I’m going to upgrade through the GUI Admin console. My question is how do I backup the current firmware with settings BEFORE I update? Just in case so I have something to fall back on. I currently go to Administration> Firmware upgrade> Click on backup. From my understanding this is simply backing up the settings and NOT the build. If I flash to the 22000+++ and want to revert back I can’t use this file?

    • Correct. You should not restore a backup from a different build, even when from the same developer. Might it work? Sure. But you might also be opening the door to problems, and you’d just have to reset and start from scratch anyway. Just take screen shots of all your settings pages, and then re-configure after the new flash.

  • Jason Kendall

    Do you believe it is absolutely necessary doing a 30/30/30 reset before upgrading Kong? Im going from kong to kong so there shouldn’t be any issues correct?

    • Yes, I really do believe that, or I wouldn’t have said so in the article. 🙂 You can try and shortcut it if you’re feeling bold, but personally… I wouldn’t.

      • Richard

        Thanks for this guide, thanks.

        I have a problem: the Transmitted (TX) still standing on 0%.

  • Dan

    Good evening, first thank you for this well written blog. Now my question. Is it OK to go from DD-WRT v24-sp2 (12/05/13) mega – build 22786 to 22000++?

    • You bet. It’s always OK to go FROM any version of DD-WRT TO any version of DD-WRT. Just do a 30/30/30 first!

  • Dan

    Thanks, I ended up going back to mini first and then the 22000++. Working great just like the previous walk through you did. Thanks again!

  • Richard

    Steve, Thanks for this guide, thanks.

    I have a problem: the Transmitted (TX) still standing on 0%. I have this problem only on the WL01 (N-Only 5 GHz).

    I’m using kingkong 22000++

  • Hello Steve! BIG Thanx for this manual! IS there any newest DD-WRT build for E4200? Thank you in advance!

  • Steve, awesome write up. Do you plan continue to keep it updated with latest recommended builds?

    • Hi, Red Baron. Yes – I update this thread every time there’s a newer build that I’ve tested as safe and reliable.

  • Richard

    Steve, Please, can you help me? Thanks!

    I have a problem: the Transmitted (TX) still standing on 0%. I have this problem only on the WL01 (N-Only 5 GHz).

    I’m using kingkong 22000++

  • Les Garten

    Hello Steve,
    Have you tried a K30 version of the firmware?

    • Hi, Les. I haven’t seen any that are stable enough and have all the features working that I need, so I’ve been sticking with the tried-and-true K26 stuff for now. Nearly all of the K30 development is focused on newer hardware, so I’ve been considering getting a newer router to experiment with K30 stuff, too.

      • Dan

        The Netgear R7000 was a nice upgrade for me. Office Depot had them for $99 this week. Unfortunately DD-WRT hadn’t been extremely stable but the stock firmware has actually been great.

  • Hi steve,
    First of all, thank you for this great article. I ran into some issues installing DD-WRT on the E4200. Had it running on other devices, but the E4200 had a bit of a temper.
    I’m running the E4200 as a reapeter bridge, boosting range from my main router and using network devices wired to the E4200 and letting the E4200 providing the wireless communication opposed to every device connecting wireless to the main router. It is a huge boost in network performance.
    I am using the basic idea from this wiki http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Repeater_Bridge and all the specific setting from your artice.
    I still encountered some stability issues running the Kong mega build you linked directly in the article. So I went to the Kong download page also mentioned in the article and downloaded the latest build (now his tests builds and not official Beta’s as there was no recent one for the E4200).
    With this build the E4200 is running stable and getting great performance. So to anyone still having some stability issues, it is worth a try to load the most recent Kong build. It sovled the problem for me.

    • Spike, did you have any problems in repeater bridge mode around clients reporting duplicate IP addresses? What are you using for your main router?

      • Sorry for the late reply, bit busy moving to a new country.
        Nope, no problems around duplicate IP addresses.
        Main router is a TP-Link TL-WR841N supplied by my provider running stock firmware. That thing is realy stable.
        Actualy switched to Client Bridge. My wifi signal from the main router gets around the house. With Cient Bridgethe WiFi on theE4200 running DD WRT is only for the bridge and I use the ethernet ports to connect my Xbox and media center. Moving from Repeater Bridge to Clientbridge improved stability.

  • Hi Steve,
    After upgrading to the Kong version, my ntp client stopped working (UTC+05.30). From command prompt, I had the date set but again it resets every time the router reboots. Are you facing this issue ? My older kong version used to work fine though.

    Anyway great post and I remember way back when i bought E4200 you site had the best “How to” for ddwrt., Thanks again.

    –Sachin Gopal

  • Ok, seems there was a bug http://svn.dd-wrt.com/ticket/3513#comment:3 which seems to be still there with this build.


  • Can you recommend a good K3 build that has JFFS2 working made AFTER shellshock came out ?

  • Hi,

    Is it possible to update the separate packages on an E4200 or do you have to install
    a new build to do that?

    Can you import a saved settings file from a previous build ?

    Thank you for your great E4200 website

    • Hi, Dirk. No, you have to flash the firmware all at once. And while you can attempt to import saved settings from a previous build, I don’t recommend it.

  • Tommyloui

    Steve, Thank you very much for your guide its been very helpful for myself as well as a number of my friends that I have told about it. I have a few questions though.

    1. In my home I have installed 1 E4200 configured per your instructions as a Router. out of one of the Ports of my Uverse modem. one port goes to a smart switch that connects to our receiver, Roku etc. another port goes upstairs to another E4200 that I followed your configuration and then I followed the instructions here http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Wireless_Access_Point using the long version. and I made the few changes from your instructions on the E4200 I put upstairs I used the same SSID on both Routers and both channels of the Routers for example 1 router might have the address of and the other and both systems on both routers used the same SSID (I.E. ourhouse ) is this the proper way to follow your instructions and setup both routers?

    2. At a friends Medical practice it takes up 2 floors in a building Comcast business service uses a SMC SMCD3G-CCR I connected 6 E4200’s to this all were configured per your instructions and then modified to meet the access point instructions listed above. the SMC had Comcast’s DNS addresses listed in the SMC Router. I named all of the E4200’s with the same SSID name i.e. Medical THe smc ip address was and it was setup as the DHCP server The Routers and Printers were using Static IP addresses. I am having a problem were the notebooks connecting wireless to the network had a issue connecting to the internet. when I had windows troubleshoot the network error I was not uncommon to get the DNS address?

    What am I doing wrong? do I need to change the DNS address on the SMC router to Googles & ? am i missing up using the Same SSID for all 6 routers and both channels of each?

    Thank you in advance for your assistance. and suggestions.

    as a side note should I start looking for replacement routers or if I can still keep finding these E4200’s are they the best answer?

    Thank you

  • Jim

    Hi Stevie, my box e4200 is actually running ddwrtv24k26e4200 kong 22000++ firmware .Is the new build dd-wrt.v24-25697_NEWD-2_K3.x_mega-e4200.bin safe and better upgrade for e4200? Thanks

    • Early reports show it’s OK, but I’m actually testing 26528 right now. Will update the post when I’m confident it’s stable!

      • Super thanks, Steve!!!

      • Howard


        You provide an EXCELLENT resource indeed.

        With the more recent updates to various browsers that restrict or otherwise prevent certain https connections, is there any way to enable external SSL connections to the E4200? I can use SSH but if I am not on my own machine I can’t be sure that SSH will be available.

        I have read many postings in various places but I’m not clear on whether it is at all possible and if so what I need to do.

        Thanks and looking forward to hearing about your 26528 experiences…

  • Kevin

    Sorry for the noob question, but once the router is setup, are there any special settings to enable VPN access?

    • Yes, but you’re best checking the DD-WRT forums for those. I use a Windows 2008 box for my VPN.

      • Kevin

        Thanks Steve… You have some great blogs, thanks for sharing.

  • Edge

    Brilliant Post / read with all the comments too.
    I was searching for info to help in cascading routers, the Cisco been sitting in drawer gathering dust so thought I’d add through Lan to Lan connection.
    I used a few of the tips provided in setting up router as it was very slow & without flashing the router – and it gives us full capacity from broadband provider – so I shall stick with it for now.
    (The router is next to the PC though!)
    Nice to know this router has some die hard fans/users. I’ve even noticed there’s a seller in the U.S. selling a mod kit for this unit – seems very rock n roll!
    Cheers Steve & other contributors in the comments.

  • scott

    Thanks for the guide, Steve. Been running the 22000 build you suggested for a while now and all seems solid except for 1 thing. When I download off usenet @ ~5 MB/s it seems ok for a bit, but every now and then my whole connection will go down. The router doesn’t show it reboots, but my computer loses internet connectivity briefly. Then everything comes back less than a minute later. Haven’t checked if other devices on the network lose connectivity also. It’s a somewhat common issue for this to happen with a larger download. Maybe this is something you can be sure to test newer builds? Thanks!

    • Still testing some newer builds. A few show promise, but I like them to be rock solid before I recommend them to my readers.

  • Kevin Field

    Steve Thank you. I was able to update to DDWRT on my E4200 and I also did my WRT150. The WRT 150 is running as a repeater bridge. A couple of questions for you, first is there a recommended site for a newbie to learn about port forwarding and second I can not get to Fractal’s ftp site is there a required protocol.

  • Ray

    Steve, love the guide, it really had made it simple. a quick question. If i’m going to add additional E4200 v1’s as access points do you have any advice or direction. is it as simple as just following your directions and then change it to access point and turn off DHCP?

    Thank you again

    • Hi, Ray. Yep! It’s really that simple! Don’t forget on the Basic Setup tab to turn WAN Connection Type to Disabled for an Access Point.

  • crramirez

    Hello Steve,

    Yesterday I flashed DD-WRT in my E4200 following your instructions and directly using your recommended builds, in order to use it as VPN client.

    Let me tell you that I am very happy not only the VPN just works perfectly but also the WiFi signal and speed have increased. I still didn’t apply the start-up commands about interference mitigation.

    A question for you. I saw in wl1 that I can choose 2.4 instead 5gz. Is it possible? To have 2 antennas transmitting in 2.4? I see can be useful because if I put them at different channels I choose one or another depending on the room and the interference there.

    Thank you

  • Ray

    Hello Steve, Thanks for your speedy replys to everyone and keeping us current! I have a question as I’m getting ready to flash 3 more E4200’s.

    I have been using a file that i downloaded from your link at the top of the article. I went to check your article to get the latest file and I noticed the name was a little different but they both ended in 22000m.bin the file today is 224kb smaller and the # changed from #611 to #620 what is the different? and should I consider reflashing my other routers to keep current? Thank you, below is a list of the 2 files and the info on them.

    Thanks again,


    Back on 22 April 2014 I downloaded a file that was named kingkong-nv60k-broadcom-22000M.bin on the “Status” “Router” tab has the following label:

    Firmware Version DD-WRT v24-sp2 (04/14/14) kingkong – build 22000M
    Kernel Version Linux #611 Mon Apr 14 00:24:46 CEST 2014 mips

    Today I downloaded of the link from at the top of the article named: kingkong-nv60k-broadcom.bin on the “Status” “Router” Tab has the following Label:

    Firmware Version DD-WRT v24-sp2 (06/07/14) kingkong – build 22000M
    Kernel Version Linux #620 Sat Jun 7 21:57:31 CEST 2014 mips

    • Hi, Ray. I actually recommend build 26138 now, and just updated the article today! 🙂

  • Ray

    Wow, that was fast! Thank you!, quick question, could you if you have time tell us a little about the enhancements of using this new version.

    • Hi, Ray. Overall WiFi stability (which leads to better speed) is the big one, but you can track all the changes between any build versions of DD-WRT here: http://svn.dd-wrt.com/

  • Ray

    Thanks again. I’m sure that this has been said many times, but I’ve been in this industry since 1975 and you are the FIRST person that has ever cared enough about their readers to keep an article current.


  • René

    Hello Steve,

    yesterday I installed the 26138 Version which you recommend. I have to say, that this is the first version of DD-WRT on my E4200. Before I used a WRT54GL with 14929 and it worked fine.

    Since yesterday I got the problem, that any device which connects over wifi to the E4200 gets its IP from the DHCP server delayed. Approx. after 2-3 minutes I would say. The connection is established after a few seconds, but no IP is assigned. Any LAN device is working instantly.

    I got another E4200 in my network with the standard firmware and it is configured in bridgemode. If I connect a wifi device to this router the same problem is occurring. With the WRT54GL everything works.

    Is it possible, that this is a bug in the 26138 version? Maybe it is only a wrong configuration, but I don’t know where to look. Do you knew this kind of problem?


    • HI, René. That seems very strange, as the DHCP server has been working on DD-WRT for quite some time. I’m not aware of any problem, but I’d check in on the DD-WRT forums to see if anyone there has!

      • René

        Hi Steve,
        thanks for your answer. I fixed my problem by installing your old recommendation 23040. With this build everythink works as expected. 🙂

  • Hi Steve,
    I noticed you updated the recommended build, from the Kong version to the BrainSlayer now.
    Will try that today.

    I have been running:
    DD-WRT v24-sp2 (12/26/14) kong – build 25735M
    I was running it in Repeater Bridge mode, using your settings recommendationsto optimize.

    Had change to Client Bridge in order to increase stability. Normal use like gamng and browsing no problem. But still encountered the following isue:
    On high/full load communication from or to one of the devices connected via ethernet cables to the E4200 (High quality stream Pi media center, Transferring files to a NAS, Downloading content with the Xbox 360) the connection will freeze. The E4200 connects via Wifi to the main router/modem (TP-Link TL-WR841N) and the main router remains stable and reachable, just the E4200 that freezes.
    – 100% packet loss
    – Extreme ping if a packet does go through
    – No connection via web interface
    If I cut the proccess, the E4200 comes back, I can open the web interface again, but as soon as I restart a high data load transfer if works for a short while (1 min) and feezes.
    I can’t see the buffer or memory filling up durin that period so can’t really put my finger on it as to what causes the issue and how to fix it / what settings to change.

    The devices connected via ethernet cables to the E4200 connecting to each other, so not using WiFi for external data, I have no issue at all.

    Main router is stable and connecting to that direcly I have no issues (other than moving equiptment through the house to test it…)

    Any ideas?

    Wil try the BrainSlayer build and see what happens, thx anyway for updating this great article and helping us out!

    • I have been running the BrainSlayer build for two weeks now. Still had issues with freezing of the E4200 under high load, especially with my Xbox 360 and Kodi – Pi media center. Went digging into the statistics and settings.
      wlan0 – eth1 almost no RX/TX errors, good signal, good SNR
      wlan1 – eth2 only connected on some occasions, near 100% TX error, bad signal and near 0 SNR.
      So apparently, wlan1 is just on the edge of being able to connect to the main router. When it does, the traffic that goes through it get’s lost, causing an even higher load on wlan0 and delays for the lost packages that need to be send again. I disabled wlan1 completely and with that, I have had no stability issues.
      So it is not the optimal solution in terms of speed, but availability is as it should be now.

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  • slimething

    I could not find the 26138 build for e4200. Link anyone? I already have it flashed to earlier version a year or two ago, but don’t see e4200 in the build list. Thanks.

    • Hi, slimething. Please re-read steps 2-4 in the first section of the post. That answers your question and gives you the links you need. 🙂

  • Ray

    Steve, I’ve read thru your whole blog and searched all over dd-wrt and i’m not sure what i’m doing wrong. I have your latest version installed and the E4200 is configured as an access point.

    I’m pluging in a usb flash drive (64gb ) currently setup as fat 32 and following all the instructions I can find I still get this as my output:

    — /dev/discs/disc0/disc
    Block device, size 58.89 GiB (63233327104 bytes)
    DOS/MBR partition map
    Partition 1: 58.89 GiB (63229198336 bytes, 123494528 sectors from 8064)
    Type 0x0C (FAT32 (LBA))
    Windows NTLDR boot loader
    FAT32 file system (hints score 4 of 5)
    Volume size 58.86 GiB (63199805440 bytes, 1928705 clusters of 32 KiB)
    Volume name “”
    Status: Mounted on /mnt
    Status: Not mounted

    any chance you could tell me what i’m doing wrong?

    Thanks again


    • Hi, Ray. I don’t have a lot of experience using USB drives with my DD-WRT routers, but I’ve always formatted them as EXT instead of FAT. I know FAT is supposed to work, but if you can get away with EXT, I’d give that a try before you pull more hair out. Otherwise, your best bet is the DD-WRT forums for people who know it better than me. 🙂

  • what was the reason for the recent build change? from Kong 22000 to BrainSlayer 26138.. also, when upgrading from the Kong build, should you perform a 30/30/30 reset either before or after the install?

  • Gustav Strandberg

    Hi Steve! Firstly thanks for a great article!

    I have been running my e4200 to your recommendations for little over a year.

    A few days ago I did a 30/30/30 reset followed by flashing build 26138 and another 30/30/30 reset after that. Then I reconfigured everything following a few screenshots of the previous configuration.
    Now I have two problems with my Wifi.
    The router will not broadcast SSID for Virtual Interfaces wl0.1.
    wl0 works fine. And I get a lot of transmission errors on wl0 and wl1.

    Any suggestions what could be wrong?


  • Jimmy

    Hi Steve, just installed the 26138 today and all of the settings you recommend and my speeds are very slow less than 2 download and less than 1 upload. I upgraded from a trailed build that i used off the dd-wrt site of 18777 which I was getting alot better speeds. Any suggestions? Thanks so much.

  • Jimmy

    disregard my last post. it was actually my internet provider. I guess by some odd coincidence i was running the speed test as our service was going down. Back up and all good

  • tydu

    Hi Steve, why good choice is K26 and not K30? Thanks in advance!

    • Hi, Tydu. Please check the “Other Available Builds” section of my post and look for the sentence that starts with “I often receive questions as to whether the Linux 3.x kernel builds run better on the E4200…” 🙂

      • tydu

        Thanks Steve, i switched on 2.6 kernel (26138) but now i get same Gustav Strandberg problem on virtual interface wl0.1. Is it a issue? Any suggestion?
        Thanks in advance!

        • Strange. Looking into it. Thanks.

          • tydu

            Ok. The problem occour if i set a security mode.

  • Ray

    Steve, 2.4 & 5 is very congested (see attached screen captures) I was going to change to 5Ghz however it appears that the E4200 with the current installed OS you advise at the top of the article

    Your instructions said any channel above 100 however it appears that only channel 149 – 165 work am I doing something wrong?

    you can download the screen shots via this link, thanks https://www.hightail.com/download/UlRUTmZldzhGOFFkVU1UQw

    I’m sure this is an issue for others but I didn’t know how to attach the pics to the Blog.

    • Hi, Ray. You may have to press “Save” after setting one option on the Wireless Basic Settings tab, before the drop-down list for others is updated. For example, set your channel width, then press Save, then choose your channel. Experiment with that and I think you’ll be good to go.

  • Ray

    I forgot to add one other issue, the command for interference mitigation mode seems to have an issue with using the # 4 as a command so when i enter the following string and run it
    sleep 10
    wl -i eth1 interference 4
    sleep 10
    wl -i eth2 interference 4

    i get the following response from the Router

    Get/Set interference mitigation mode. Choices are:
    0 = none
    1 = non wlan
    2 = wlan manual
    3 = wlan automatic
    Get/Set interference mitigation mode. Choices are:
    0 = none
    1 = non wlan
    2 = wlan manual
    3 = wlan automatic

    is this a bug or is this feature not enabled in this build?

    Thanks again , Ray

    • Thanks for catching that, Ray. The correct setting is now 3 (this version uses different drivers than the older Fractal and Kong versions). I’ve updated the article!

  • Gustav Strandberg

    Hi again!
    I tried build 26322 as 26138 gives me really slow WiFi and loads of transmit errors on both wlan interfaces. I switched to build 25974 and everything works flawlessly!

    • Yeah, I’m on 26138 and I’ve got 20,000 transmission errors in the past 15 hours as well (6,000,000 traffic) and internet keeps dropping. Don’t seem to have very many receiving errors though. Not sure what’s causing the issue, but it is definitely noticeable.

      I also can’t seem to get static DCHP leases set up (any time I put one in, it kills the connection for that computer), but that might just be a settings issue.

  • Gustav Strandberg

    26322 gave no improvement over 26138.

    • Hi, Gustav. I’m currently testing 26348. If you do the same, let me know how it goes. I’m not seeing the same problems you are, but I’m trying to replicate.

      • Gustav Strandberg

        I’ll give 26348 a try and let you know how it goes. If it doesn’t work I can send you a backup of my settings if you like.

  • I’m still running Firmware:

    DD-v24-sp2 (08/19/13) std-usb-nas 22208
    can i use the firmware upgrade from within DD-wrt to upgrade to :


    • Hi, Dirk. Once you’ve got any version of DD-WRT successfully loaded on the router, you can then safely flash any other build that’s compatible with the hardware (in the case of the E4200, it must be a 60k build, so the kingkong-nv60k build you mentioned is fine). However, my recommendations for max speed and stability get updated from time to time, so my suggestion is to go with whichever one I’ve tested and recommend in this article.

  • Ray

    Steve, a few quick questions and a rather serious problem:

    I recently started having a problem on My E4200’s,

    I have 3 E4200V1 setup as access points they all are configured per your instructions with the few changes from the Long Form version of DD-WRT Access Point setup. All three of them have the same SSID for Wlo and a slightly different one for WL1. I recently upgraded to dd-wrt.v24-26138_NEWD-2_K2.6_mega-nv60k and i’m having a massive number of Transmit and receive errors will this be corrected if I upgrade to your newest advice to use dd-wrt.v24-26446_NEWD-2_K2.6_mega-nv60k.bin will that correct the problem?

    Will it effect anything if I change the Router Name and or Gateway Name so that it will be easy to know which location is which when I log into them other than knowing which IP Address is located where?

    If I’m using the same SSID’s as I listed above, If i use an app for my Android phone to look at the WIFI Network is there anything I can change like the Router name or Gateway name to tell which Access Point I’m connected to other than Mac Address since The SSID is the same for all of the Access Points.

    Thank you again for all of your help

    • You can name them different names to make it easier (that’s what I do) and keep the same SSID for easy roaming. The apps, however, won’t tell you the Router name. What I do is make sure each is on a separate channel, and then I can tell with the apps. And yes, I’d give 26446 a go.

  • em

    I followed your recommendation and upgraded my E4200 V1 with the dd-wrt.v24-26446_NEWD-2_K2.6_mega-e4200.bin. Everything is working fine except the virtual interface. I added a virtual interface for a guest network, but its wireless SSID can not be found when I scan it with my mobile phone, it just isn’t there at all. I wondering if you have similar issue when you test out the firmware?

    • ramosel

      Even with 26446 there seems to be an issue with the virtual interface if you set a security method. I’m not sure if running “open” but setting “AP Isolation” is a smart move so for now I’m just running without a guest account. Steve, sent you some PMs (one of the Ricks from the FerrariList) but I guess your are busy or traveling… I didn’t know you were an upsidedownlander…

  • arne van theemsche

    I’m still using the KONG release DD-WRT v24-sp2 (06/07/14) kingkong.

    Can I upgrade to your currently recommended release without losing my config?

    • Hi, Arne. The answer is “maybe.” Still, I’d take screen shots off all the non-default settings you’ve used just in case. And if anything starts acting weird, just go ahead and 30/30/30 it then re-configure based on your screen shots.

  • Ard Righ

    I just updated toe 26446 build, and now when I go to apply settings is the UI, I get constant connection reset messages in Firefox on Fedora, failing to reload with the apply.cgi page
    It seems to work better in Firefox for Android, but still get the occasional reset message there too.

    I never had this issue with previous firmware releases so I don’t know what has been changed.

    Has anyone else experienced this problem?

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  • Gaudi

    Can you please review your statement “(as opposed to the smaller “standard” and “mini” builds), including the popular OpenVPN, and as a result is over 11MB is size”.
    The mega build is just 7.7 mb. I was worried about not having downloaded the right version.


    • Hi, Gaudi. Sorry – that was old info. I’ve updated the article. Thanks! 🙂

  • Gaudi

    Hi Steve, thanks for your extensive testing and comments.
    I my former reply I have noticed that I may have been rude. I apologize for that.
    I have upgraded my two e4200 routers to the latest dd-wrt.v24-26490_NEWD-2_K2.6_mini-e4200.bin and have found that WDS using WPA2 does not work.
    Previously I had them running Kong 22000 and it worked, althoug from now and then the link was lost and took me several minutes to hours and several reboots to have it running again.
    Can you comment what alternatives do I have for establishing such a link?


    • Gaudi

      Managed to overcome the issue using Repeater Bridge. The WDS connection was not consistent, as it did work with no security, and got broken as soon as I enabled WPA or WPA2 security.
      Repeater Bridge is working at this time.

    • No, not rude at all. 🙂 And I see from a later comment that you got this working. Great job! 🙂

  • Gaudi

    Hi again, after having configured the router, I have noticed some issues:
    * WDS does not work using WPA2 or WPA. I had to resort to use Repeater Bridge. Previous kong build 22000+ did work (although the initial binding was quite tricky and required several reboots).
    * Virtual interfaces do not work. They do not show on a network scan.
    *The connection is very unstable. All my clients (Android devices, iPhone, Notebook) keep disconnecting and connecting again, resulting in drop of communications, for example while using Skype.
    * DHCP server (on the Server router) does not seem to work all the time. It depends on the timing of the routers startup. It is very annoying.

    I will find time to revert to the previous firmware and recheck this issues.

    Has someone else had these problems?


    • ramosel

      Yes, I’ve seen some of these issues but I only use my e4200s as APs behind my primary (PC based) router. The virtual interfaces do work… just not if you add security. I know, same end result. But this is just Steve’s blog. He doesn’t write the DD-WRT code. Your concerns are valid, very well defined and well conveyed. You should post this over at the DD-WRT forum. There is a new beta as of this morning – 26622. Might try that.

    • I have had some issues. I use the E4200 as a 2nd router. Primary is provided by my internet provider but the connection is not in a convenient spot. Not wanting to have all devices connected wireless, I have the E4200 in the living room. Wired connection to NAS / Xbox360 / Pi Kodi and the E4200 bridging wireless to the main router.

      Repeater bridge: Forget it, not stable. Switched to Client bridge. So not extending the wireless anymore.
      WL1 I have disabled completely. The SNR and Signal are just too low. This causes a lot of TX errors and the connection becomes unstable (under high load with data transfer to the NAS and downloading to the Xbox). With WL1 disabled, it only uses WL0 and that does have better range and SNR and signal values. It works quite stable. Only downloading to the Xbox seems to be an issue still.

      Your issues:
      Virtual interfaces: I have had no issues with this. Did you enable wireless SSID broadcast? Are you using the same or a different SSID for the virtual one?

      Unstable connection:
      Check the signal conditions, SNR and TX loss. You might want to play with the power setting of the interface a bit, although the recommended settings by Steve work best for me. If your WL0 has bad signal and SNR values, try disabling it to see if there is an improvement.

      Have had some issues with previous builds. I disabled it on the secondary E4200. Only the primary router runs DHCP and it works fine now. It could be that after re-flashing the E4200, you need to power up the primary router first, then the E4200 and then connect the devices. As a re-initialize phase for the network.

      Good luck, I am off to test the 26622 build now. See if that allows me to run WL1 and fixes some xbox issues.

    • Rick Moseley

      Just a quick note for those watching/wondering… I’ve got a couple of spare Linksys e3000s that I use to guinea pig the betas – same chipset and virtually the same function as my e4200s. I’ve been watching the SVN timeline and loading the new betas as soon as they come out. Looks like they have been fighting a DNSMASQ issue for the most part recently so I’m not even sure if they are looking into of the WL0.1 interface issues at this time (they were made aware Dec 2014). Yesterday I loaded the 4/1 release of 26635 and it still has the SSID no broadcast if security applied. Still seeing a lot of TX errors too. As of today (Easter) there appears to be a 26639 changeset in the works that has some broadcom driver updates… fingers crossed

  • gde

    Hi Steve,

    How long do you test the new build before you recommend it in the blog? I am wondering how do you know the stability without running it for days?

    The 26622 was just out for few hours but it is recommended.

    • Hi, GDE. Good question. I’ve been doing these recent ones more quickly than normal, because BrainSlayer is trying to get close to a release version, and the current changesets really aren’t that drastic from one build to the next lately (I following the changes in the DD-WRT SVN timeline). Also, it was actually released “yesterday” because the release times are in Germany. I load them on at least three different E4200 routers (on three different networks) and make sure all the basic functions work, and that throughput seems stable, then I let them run for a few hours and make sure the RX and TX errors are relatively low when compared to the total number of packets. My primary router that’s been up for over 12 hours is showing 378061 OK (no errors) for RX and 681466 OK (174 errors) for TX.

      • gde

        Hi Steve. Thanks for explaining your test approach. The reason I am asking is that I saw an issue on the build 03-05-2015-r26446 after running it for about 1 week. It droped internet connection suddenly and I had to reboot modem & router 2-3 times to make it work again. This issue occured 3 times randomly during 20 days. I had been running kong’s 22200++ for 6+months without rebooting and the router works perfectly before I changed to r26446. So I am suspecting it is the build issue not my router. I am lazy and do not intend to try builds so I just rely on your blog to upgrade my router to a recent stable build. But it seems it is hard to prevent this kind of issue in testing. I changed to 26490 and so far it seems to be ok.

  • Samantha

    Hey Steve,

    Been using your guide to set up my router for a while, so thanks for that!

    I had been running into a bit of weirdness using the kong build you had recommended for a long time so I decided to come and check for an upgrade in firmware. Just upgraded to 26622 last night but I noticed some troubles in connecting to and holding a connection on the 5ghz band. After another reset and reconfiguration my troubles returned. I noticed that my troubles started happening around the time I enabled your startup script, so I removed all the lines not related to interference reduction and it seems to have solved my problem for now.

    I don’t know what the last 5 lines of code do exactly and why it might cause issues, but I just wanted to give you a heads up that they might be contributing to instability for some users.

  • This weekend updated from 26446 to 26622.
    Use the E4200 as a secondary router in client bridge mode. Absolutely worth it. Stability improvement under high load and it solved the issues I had with downloading content to my Xbox 360. Previously when downloading, or better attempting to download to the 360, there would be a freeze and the web interface of the E4200 would be unavailable. Same thing with transferring big / multiple files to my NAS. The Pi media center could also mess up the router a bit.
    Now downloading with the 360 at my max internet speed is no issue and can monitor it via the web interface without problems. Pi media center also no longer causes network issues.
    I have to disable the 2nd interface (wl1) as the distance to the primary router is apparently too far. Signal rating is weak and SNR varies between -6 and +8, This causes strange behavior and connection instability. With this disabled and only using wl0 everything I need now works like a charm.

  • Kbarb

    What’s going on with the blog’s formatting now ? Your blog reads in a gigantic font, sort of kindergarten style.
    I’m on Firefox 37.0.1 – not sure what’s going on.
    Always good reading though. 😉

    • Weird. Tried restarted the web server. Still wonky?

      • Rick Moseley

        Looks “normal” here now… I just thought with your age approaching mine you had gone to a senior friendly font. New build out this morning – 26653

  • Kbarb

    Right now I’m seeing about size 16 font. I don’t know if it’s just me or what.
    But I’m seeing that also in IE and Chrome so it looks like it’s not on my end.
    Every other web pages on all other domains I’m looking at looks normal, meaning no change from before.

    • tsmith35

      I used Firebug to check some of the text. The style for html contains “font-size: 16px;”, and .main contains “font-size: 1.25rem;”. According to Firebug, the calculated font size is 20px with a line height of 30px. Running FF 37.0.1 — Opera (latest), IE11 and Chrome (latest) all show the same size text.

      • Kbarb

        Yes, I checked that last week as well – kind of nuts to read in that large a font (20px).
        Nevertheless I do like reading Steve’s blog, Just kind of feel like I’m back in 1st grade.

        • Weird. I just purged the cache. Is it still happening? 🙂

  • Hi,

    Very pleased with my e4200 running your recommended firmware.
    May I ask what will be your next dd-wrt router?

    greetings dirk

    • Hi, Dirk. Great question. I’ve been eyeing the Netgear R7000 lately. 🙂

  • Ray

    Steve, Thanks again for keeping this up to date! I am upgrading a number of E4200’s I have and thought I’d follow your instructions again to be sure nothing changed that i have missed. right off I noticed this and I thought you might want to talk with brainslayer and see if he is going to fix it again or if you need to change your instructions. Here is the first difference I noticed.

    Since you went back to brainslayers firmware there has been a change in the Time Settings Section.
    Your instructions show the NTP info as it has been a long time. However all that has changed.
    Now under Time Settings in the firmware your choices are:
    NTP Client Enable Disable
    Time Zone A world wide listing
    However when you choose US/Eastern there is no longer any ability to pick times zones based upon the UTC info
    Summer Time (DST): Is no longer there at all

    I’ll let you know if I notice anything else.

    • Thanks for catching those, Ray! All fixed. Keep ’em coming. 🙂

  • Shadow

    Hi Steve,
    Great post, I followed all settings (+many more tweaks mentioned on the DD-WRT forums). However I have one issue regarding my actual speed; I get a maximum download speed of 120-120 Mbps, where I should be able to get 200 Mbps. With stock firmware I reached 199,95, but I could no longer rely on that Linksys crap… 😉

    Any further suggestions/tweaks I can try? I have already included your startup script and I tried disabling all other services on the router.. But at no avail. Only DHCP, NAT and firewall enabled. Average load 0.01 – 0.17 seems find and around 70% RAM free.

    Anything help is appreciated.

    Oh and in regards to post above, your site looks fine as always (FF + Safari).

  • Terry

    Hi Steve,
    Love the site and recommendations for new builds. Your current recommendation for “dd-wrt.v24-26653_NEWD-2_K2.6_mega-nv60k.bin” is linked to the big build, not the mega build.

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  • k3vmcd

    The latest recommended builds – 26622 and 26653 – seem to have a bug that prevents utilizing wireless encryption (e.g., WPA2 Personal) on the virtual interfaces (e.g., wl0.1 and wl1.1) which are used when creating a guest network.

    The older KingKong 22000 build is able to create the password encrypted guest network properly as long as you use the manual unbridging and firewalling process oulined here: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Multiple_WLANs.

    Just something to keep in mind if you have need of a guest network with a passphrase.

  • Scott Mitchell

    Hi Steve:
    I’ve enjoyed reading your blog and the many comments thereafter. I have an E4200 V2 router which I use as a wireless access point. I’m wondering if your settings would help performance of my E4200? I’m using an Alix (2d13) box running pfsense as my router. I’m also interested in your comments about this combination and how you think it compares with DD-WRT?
    Best regards,


  • Ard Righ

    Hi Steve,

    In your wireless settings for wl1, you note you prefer to use channel 149, 40Mhz, and lower extension.

    In the options for build 26653 you recommend, Channel 149 (5.745 GHz), Wide HT40 (20+20 MHz) only appears if you select the Upper extension.

    Just in case anyone else is confused why channel 149 isn’t available.

  • Stefan

    Hi Steve,

    i can confirm the post from “k3vmcd”. The version 26653 seem to have a problem with wireless virtual interfaces. In the GUI all looks good, but for the virtual interface there is no running “nas” process and the virtual wireless network was not visible neither accessible.

    May you can add a hint in your post near the recommendation because it takes me a lot time to track this.

    Best regards,


  • Gaudi

    Hi Steve, have you got the chance to check the new 26866 build for stability?

    Also, and BTW, I have noticed that you are quite acknowledgable on networking so allow me for some question on network configuration.
    I currently have my ISP (50 mbps) cable modem/router (CISCO DPC3825) installed in the kitchen. There is no way to connect it via wires to my computers/apliances, which are actually connected to a different router (client E4200) and switch building a wired network.

    So, I installed a “server” E4200 connected to this cable modem, and originally used WDS to link both E4200s for transparent link. With newer builds, especially after 22000, the connection is very unstable, and sometimes it requires several reboots to work. I am now running 26490 in a client repeater configuration.
    For the sake of speed, I have connected both bands as clients, so there is a redundant link between the routers using 2.4 and 5 GHz.
    I have some spare routers that I can use if there is a better (performance wise) configuration. These are WRT300N, WRT350N, 2 x WRT610N v1, and a E2500 which I have lent to my parents in law.
    I have thought of using on of the WRT610N as dedicated client bridge, and then connect using ethernet the client E4200 as a dedicated AP.

    Your comments are appreciated.


  • Gaudi

    Hi, since your last review several new builds came out. Have you got the chance to test any of them?

    Thank you.

  • Christopher Oak

    Hi Steve,
    Following your guide and using the mega build 26866. Under the Wireless Physical Interface wl1 settings, The channel width is now “HT40 (20+20 MHz)” . If I choose that, my Wireless Channel goes back to Auto. I tried every possible combination but I can not make the Wireless Channel to 149-5.745Ghz stick with HT40 (20+20 MHz). It only sticks with 20 MHz. Any suggestions?

    Also, do I enable Wireless SSID Broadcast on interface wl1? Yes same SSID is entered for both inteface wl0 and wl1.


    • Hi, Christopher. Have you tried “Apply Settings” after setting the channel width, and then trying to edit the channel? That’s how I got it to work on mine .

      And yes, SSID Broadcast should be enabled on both interfaces (which is the default).

  • Gaudi

    Build 26866 still has problems setting up WDS with WPA2 security.
    Anyone managed to make it work?

  • Mat

    Hi Steve!
    Do you know if the “bug that prevents utilizing wireless encryption” (comment from k3vmcd) was fixed in recommended version 26866?
    Thanks a lot for all this very useful and up-to-date information on this blog! I’m using DD-WRT on Linksys E4200 and found your suggested settings very helpful for the configuration.
    Greetings from Switzerland!
    Best Regards,

    • Hi, Mat. I’m using WPA Personal 2 encryption with no issues. I haven’t been able to confirm that it was ever broken.

      • Stefan

        Hi Steve,

        to reproduce the problem just add an virtual interface (vInt) to the wl0 (2.4 GHz) physical interface. The physical interface is already configured and uses WPA2 encryption. First all looks good and the SSID is visible, but after you enable WPA2 Personal encryption for the vInt the SSID from the vInt disappears.

        At the shell you can see that only two “nas” processes are running but it should be three:

        2992 root 1740 S nas -P /tmp/nas.wl0lan.pid -H 34954 -l br0 -i eth1 -A -m 128 -k XXX -s WLAN-WPA -w 4 -g 3600
        2998 root 1740 S nas -P /tmp/nas.wl1lan.pid -H 34954 -l br0 -i eth2 -A -m 128 -k XXX -s WLAN-WPA-5GHz -w 4 -g 3600

        “/var/log/messages” shows that three nas processes started successfully:
        May 14 15:44:03 DD-WRT user.info syslog: NAS : NAS lan (wl0 interface) successfully started
        May 14 15:44:03 DD-WRT user.info syslog: NAS : NAS lan (wl0.1 interface) successfully started
        May 14 15:44:03 DD-WRT user.info syslog: NAS : NAS lan (wl1 interface) successfully started

        I also can see this behavior on my Asus RT-12N (bcm4716b0 cpu, 4 MB flash and 32 MB ram) router.

        • Samantha


          I’ve had this issue recently as well, it’s a bit frustrating for sure — I was digging around in the SVN though and I may have found a potential work around.

          The author suggests setting up wl0.1 up as a dummy access point and then setting up wl0.2 and using that one instead. It seems there may only be an issue with 0.1 and none of the other virtual interfaces. I haven’t had a chance to test this out as I ended up changing my network configuration a bit, but perhaps this will work for you.


  • Michael

    I haven’t been able to get guest wi-fi working on an e4200 with the last few builds. I’m currently using 26866 and still can’t get it to work. I’m using this guide (http://tips.desipro.de/2013/12/06/guest-wifi-setup-dd-wrt/). The guest SSID never broadcasts. Any suggestions?

    • Hi, Michael. I’m currently testing 20796 and inSSIDer seems to see the guest SSID (virtual interface wl0.1) just fine.

  • My currently recommended build of DD-WRT is 27119.

  • Oscar

    Hi Steve, I have read in the comments a few people experiencing high Transmitted (TX) Errors. Have you encountered the same? I have tried you last two recommended releases and I too experience high Transmitted (TX) errors. I have not noticed a performance issue. I’ll probably upgrade to 27119 soon, but I would like to know your input on this. Have you found the same? Any Recommendations?

    Firmware: DD-WRT v24-sp2 (05/09/15) mega – build 26866
    Time: 11:35:12 up 15 days, 16:18, load average: 0.04, 0.08, 0.01

    Received (RX)9205490 OK, 2 errors
    Transmitted (TX)11284370 OK, 2281 errors

    Received (RX)10414764 OK, no error
    Transmitted (TX)33680770 OK, 3590 errors
    Thank You,

  • Vijay

    Nice piece of Information. I have Linksys e4200 and I am planning to flash it with K2.6 builds. Can I use 3TB Harddrive with K2.6 builds? Somewhere on DD-WRT I have read 3 TB is only supported on K3.x builds, is it true?

  • Patrick Hurley

    Steve what are the fixes in 27119? I just upgraded to the last version you recommended a couple weeks back.

  • BoyNamedStacy

    Hey Steve, I followed your instructions here and eventually flashed the kingkong build. I’ve used your recommended settings but now I can’t connect to the Internet for some reason. I can wirelessly access the router but when I try and go to a website I get “server not found” error. I will admit, I’m a router noob and I fear I may have gotten over my head. Anything you recommend checking? I’ve double checked my settings and I have security access. Any help would be great, thanks!

    • Hi, Stacy. That’s very strange, unless you edited the WAN settings. I’d do a 30/30/30 reset and plug it in with a “vanilla” stock setup, make sure you can access the Internet, and then ONLY modify the stuff in my article. 🙂

  • quadra

    I tried your recommended build 27119, but still no hw acceleration (CTF/hw NAT).. after overclocking to 533 MHz and tweaking some values I reached WAN to LAN speed (wired) 125-130 Mbit (with heavy CPU load).. with original Linksys fw 150 Mbit is without any problem (that’s my ISP connection)! I hoped that after 4 years it would be better..
    WiFi on 5 GHz is still about 30% slower than original fw.
    For some reason ext3 fs on USB hdd is recognized, not mounted.. that was working in kong 22000 version.
    It seems that DD-WRT on Broadcom SoC has still long way to go.. and E4200 is old hw from 2011!

  • pazante

    Hello Steve! I see on your sig on dd-wrt forum that you have reach 928Mb/s and 237Mb/s is this with the E4200?
    I have 1000Mb/s upload and download from my isp now i am using the stock firmware on my E4200v1 do you recommend that i change to dd-wrt

    • Hi Pazante. For raw speed, the stock firmware still seems to be the best for the E4200. I still like DD-WRT because I get good speeds, but also a lot of other features.

  • tomcraft29

    Hello Steve

    I have got a little problem. My PC connect to my broadband modem (Cisco) and internet speed: 235Mbit/20Mbit. (~this is the max. speed). If I connect PC to router (linksys e4200) and internet speed: 116Mbit/15Mbit.

    I configurate my router with your dd-wrt technical manual + insert your script to the rc_startup, but the result same: 116-117Mbit/15-16Mbit… What is the problem? I use the recommended build: DD-WRT 27119.
    (I try “mini” and the “mega” version, the result same).

    Thank you for your answer.

    Best Regards, Thomas

  • Eric Nyamu

    so by now you have google fiber

    • At the Utah house, yes. So there I use my E4200 as an access point only, and it also handles my DDNS (because the Google router doesn’t support my DDNS provider). I still use the E4200 as my primary router in two other locations.

  • Nathan R

    Hey, thanks for keeping this post updated. Just came in very helpful for me.

    I just installed the 27490 build you recommended and immediately noticed a significant performance increase over my old build from the dd-wrt wiki.

  • Tom

    So, I was told by my internet provider that my area had increased speeds (300mbps down, 20mbps up). I kept maxing out at around 70mpbs down and 23mbps up using brainslayer’s builds. I tried reflashing with all defaults and slogging through each screen individually to ensure that my setup was clean, but no change in speeds.

    I went to Kong 22000++ and now I’m getting 111mpbs down and 23mbps up. If I bypass the e4200 completely, I get 285mbps down and 23mbps up. Seems like the e4200 is a bottleneck. I use it for DHCP and DNS, and I’ve tried both with/without your startup script, but I don’t see any difference through the e4200.

    Any recommendations on potential causes? All speeds are via CAT6 cable, not wifi. I have QoS turned off.

    • Have you tried over-clocking the E4200?

      Also, I’m currently testing a different router, and seeing if I’m ready to migrate away from the E4200 in favor of something else. Watch for a new post soon…

      • Tom

        No, no overclocking yet, but I’ll give it a shot. I have two Asus APs, so I can probably disable wifi on the e4200 to decrease temperature risks.

        By the way, I have been fighting DHCP & DNS problems with the newer brainslayer builds. It appears that “cache-size=1500” is now part of the firmware, and including that parameter in the DNSMasq options through the web interface will cause both DHCP & DNS to fail. This apparently affects builds since 5/19. I found it by Googling for >> cache-size=1500 dd-wrt dnsmasq <<

  • Terrance

    Hi Steve, I’ve been following your great article for two years now, I’m glad you are still updating it, thanks!
    I just took your recommendation and upgraded from 22786 to 27490 to get the easy guest network setup function. 27490 works fine until I enabled the virtual interface for guest network, I followed this guide by kong: http://tips.desipro.de/2013/12/06/guest-wifi-setup-dd-wrt/

    I did everything according to kong’s guide and my guest network is not broadcasting, I made sure my SSID is set to broadcast but still none of my device can see it, even worth, when the virtual interface is on, all my wireless clients will drop connection every few minutes, it took me a long time figuring out it’s the virtual interface that’s causing the issue, after I turn it off, everything went back to normal. But I really want to have a working guest wifi, any suggestions?

    • Hi, Terrence. Hmm… I don’t use a guest WiFi account, but I’ll try testing and seeing if I can reproduce. Have you checked the DD-WRT bugtracker to see if anyone else has reported it? http://svn.dd-wrt.com/

      • Terrance

        It doesn’t seem to be on the bugtracker. Although I did find somebody reporting the same thing on the dd-wrt forum and also someone on this comment section too. They all say if you create a virtual interface with no encryption then it works fine, I tried that and it does work, but who would want a guest network with no encryption?

  • Patrick Hurley

    Hi Steve, I cannot get 27490 to show any channels past 9 in 2.4Ghz settings. I was able to use 11 before which is the best channel for me in my area. What happened to the channels past 9?

    • Hi, Patrick. I’d bet you’re using the Wide HT40 (20 + 20 Mhz) channel width, with the “upper” extension channel. If you switch the extension to “lower,” or choose the 20 Mhz channel width (then press Save), I bet channel 11 shows up in your list.

  • jbellx3

    Do any of these builds contain a upnp media server? If not, what is one that I could install on e4200? also, I dont see 27119 for e4200 on download page?

  • Sam

    Is 27119 still the best version trailedversion to use?

    • Hi, Sam. I’m currently testing 27745, and it’s looking pretty good so far.

  • tlavarea

    The link from dd-wrt does not work: http://download1.dd-wrt.com/dd-wrtv2/downloads/betas/2015/07-06-2015-r27490/broadcom_K26/dd-wrt.v24-27490_NEWD-2_K2.6_mega-nv60k.bin

    Can any one point me to a download of that specific firmware?

    • Rick

      try the direct link via FTP
      But there are newer versions, Steve (and I) is testing 27745. FWIW, I’m having wonderful results with the K3.x version. Virtual interface is working with security applied

  • Hi, yt. I think the sad truth is that our beloved E4200 is getting a bit long in the tooth, and the on-board processor just can’t keep up with the REALLY fast speeds. I’m tinkering with some newer routers now to see which one I want to focus on next.

    • y t

      Hi Steve, Just FYI,
      I got a free meraki AP MR18 so I say good bye to DD-WRT for now and going back to original firmware,
      turning off wifi and used as wired router.
      I really want to keep using DD-WRT but It seems the hardware-acceleration have pretty good throughput.

      I hope DD-WRT can utilize hardware-acceleration…..
      I believe e4200 have a capability to route faster broadband.
      Thank you!

      • I don’t blame you. As better WiFi options become available, the older routers naturally get phased out.

  • For those tracking the comments, I now recommend build 27805. The startup script and GUI command issues with setting WiFi interference mitigation mode appear to be fixed. Article has been updated.

  • Hi, Henk. That’s strange. What’s the build number on the actual .bin filename?

    • And yes, there should be a “big” build on the FTP server. Hit the first link at the top of the article.

  • Gastón Vergara Valladolid

    Hi Steve.

    After some doing some changes on the Asus config.

    First screen 2.4GHz band, second 5 GHz band, ethernet reaches the maximum without any issue.

    I have to admit that after few days playing with the new one, the E4200 just got old for the fastest connections…

    Do you have any replacement on mind for your E4200?

    Thanks, regards.

    • I’ve ordered the Netgear Nighthawk R7000, and will be messing with it this week!

      • Gastón Vergara Valladolid

        Nice choice! It was the other option that I had on mind but finally I took the Asus, looking forward to read your next post about the Netgear.

        • So, I went a different way. I added a Ubiquiti UAP-PRO access point on the top floor of the house, and now it’s blasting rock-solid WiFi throughout the entire house. I’ve totally disabled the WiFi on the other access points in the house (including my E4200). Right now, it’s only doing routing, and its WAN to LAN speeds are hitting the ISP’s max (around 120Mbits/s). So I think I’m going to return the Nighthawk and roll this like for a while. 🙂

  • Patrick Hurley

    Hi Steve, are you having wifi drop issues with 27805? Or is it IOS 9. My ipad completely disconnected last night and I could not get it back up for 10 minutes. It finally connected. I am using Wide HT40 11+9

  • Hi, Red Baron. Yes, I did research a number of options, and always came back to the Ubiquiti stuff for “bang for the buck.” I’ve been using a UBNT NanoStation out at our cabin for a few years, and it’s been bulletproof. I’ve also helped set up and manage a few of them at our church, and again… they were always bulletproof. I got sick of wishing my home network was as bulletproof as the UBNT-powered ones… so I made the switch!

  • Lior Dafadi

    I tried to configure my linksys e4200 based on this great article, unfortunately, when i tried to surf on the N wireless network my MacBook pro didn’t discover the network.
    When i changed the N channel to 40-64 channels only this worked for me…
    any reason why MacBook pro cannot discover the 100 channel and above?

    • Very strange. My MacBook pro finds those channels just fine!

  • Lior Dafadi

    Is there anything I can do in order to have the 100 and above channels?

  • Hi, Patrick. Yes, I’m still running DD-WRT on two other E4200 boxes. One is the router at my cabin, and the other is a second AP at the Utah House (Google Fiber, meaning I have to use theirs… for now). All the builds are available from the Beta FTP link near the end of the article. 🙂

  • Jollyriffic

    Netgear WNDR3700v3 + Firmware: DD-WRT v24-sp2 (03/25/13) mega with your Command Shell (commented out the 2.4/5 part) took me from 22Mbps to 90Mbps. finally! been working on different settings all night and this did the trick.

  • Ben

    Please update you partial mirror to include the 27805 build. DD-WRT’s servers are on the fritz a lot.

    • That’s a good idea. I’ve got an update planned to the article today.

  • It’s back online, but it does get flaky. I’ll start locally hosting my recommended build(s).

  • It might be that there’s not room on the mega build for iperf3 to fit. Have you tried a smaller build to see if it’s there?

    I haven’t seen any pre-combiled binaries for iperf3 on DD-WRT yet. I might try installing a smaller build and grabbing it, then hosting it on my partial mirror.

    • Gaudi

      Thanks for the reply. Considering iperf is a little command, it should not increase by much the size of the firmware. I will really appreciate if you could grab the compiled source (source here http://svn.dd-wrt.com/browser/src/router/iperf?rev=24533&order=name), host it and briefly explain how to install it to the router and run it.
      I do have some knowledge and can access the router via SSH.

      Thank you!

      • That link isn’t the compiled source, it’s the uncompiled source… meaning it would need to be compiled for a DD-WRT compatible. I don’t run a compiler on my routers, so I’m unable to “make” it. I’ll keep looking for compiled bits, however. 🙂

        • Also keep in mind that even if you DO get an iperf (or iperf3) binary on the router, I wouldn’t trust the speeds it’s showing. You won’t get a true line speed because the CPU on the router needs to generate the packets and transmit them (that’s how iperf works), and the router CPUs aren’t robust to do that properly.

          You’re better off running iperf on a Linux box (or VM) from inside your LAN out to a public iperf server. That will test the true throughput of the router.

          I also kind of addressed this issue in another post about the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter and iperf:


  • Denys Pavliv

    Oooops… Steve, here is some problems with your mirror at http://ddwrt.stevejenkins.com/ it replay with 404….

    And thanks for the link to K3.x 28211 – I’ll go to setup my E4200 one more time and hope to forget about it for next 1+ years, if it’s same stable as prevues DD-WRT v24-sp2 (12/13/14) kong (SVN revision 25630M)

    Thank you one more time Steve!

  • Thomas Jose


    Thank you for this blog. It is very useful.

    I am having an issues with any of the K3.x firmwares. The problem that I am having is my overall speed is slower when compared to using a K2.6 firmware.

    When using a K2.6 firmware my speed is approximately 85/85. When using a K3.x firmware my speed goes down to 70/50.
    (Speeds were tested with http://www.speedtest.net)

    Keep in mind these speeds are tested on a wired connection. After seeing the speed drop I figured it wasnt worth testing wireless.

    I have followed the instructions for upgrading (do 30-30-30 first…etc) and tried different K3.x builds including the one you are hosting which is version 28211.

    Any ideas to why there is a speed drop with K3.x kernels?

    • If you switch back, does the speed go back up? You should verify to make sure it’s not just variability in the testing times.

      • Thomas Jose

        Yeah I’ve checked. When I go back to a K2.6 firmware, speeds go back to normal.

        • Ahh… are you overclocking? Turn on overclocking, and that might help the K3.x run as fast as the K2.6.

          • Thomas Jose

            Ok I will try that hopefully this weekend. I’ll post back with results.

          • Thomas Jose

            I tried overclocking. I set the overclock to 500mhz and tried with 533mhz. Wired speeds are still slower when on a K3.X firmware compared to a K2.6 firmware.

            Any other things to try ?

          • Hi. Thomas. That’s a bummer. I’ve tested on mine, and am getting max indicated speeds through Comcast with an E4200, and I had someone else test K3 vs. K2.6 on an E3000, with the same results.

            The correct overlock speed should be 533Mhz.

            I wish I had some other “magic bullet” for you, but I don’t. Not sure what else to suggest other than going through and triple-checking your settings!

  • Sorry – that was the wrong link. Fixed in the article now. 🙂

  • Make sure you have your 2.4GHz antenna set to allow N+G. I’d guess the printer is not connecting on 5Ghz.

  • Denys Pavliv

    Hello Steve, I can’t find in v3.0 settings this one –
    Wireless : WL0-Advanced & WL1-Advanced
    Afterburner: Off
    Looks like there is no any Afterburner settings, or it’s renamed?

    • Hmm… maybe it’s renamed! Lemme go in there and see…

  • Omagod

    Hello Steve. I just can’t get any reasonable wifi speeds out of my E4200 running DD-WRT. A little background: I was an early adopter of the E4200, owning a v1 immediately after they came out. I have tried various DD builds in the past, and every single one of them performed significantly worse speed-wise (wifi) than the stock Linksys firmware did. I thought I’d give it another go as I have upgraded my internet service to allow for 300 Mbps down and 35Mbps up max speeds. My current modem is a Surfboard SB6183. With stock firmware (1.0.06) I can achieve 150Mbps down, and 35Mbps up consistently. The very best I can get using kingkong 22000++ or 3.0 v24-28211 is 55Mbps down. Implementing your tweaks and experimentation has yielded no increase. Reflash back to stock and I can get 150 again. I even bought a used E4200 v2 and updated to the latest stock firmware, and actually got 160Mbps down. I really want to love the DD-WRT setup, but not at the cost of wifi speed. What am I doing wrong? TYIA.

  • That’s great info, Jon. I have to admit, I only run the E4200 as my primary router at one location now (my cabin). At the other two houses, I run UBNT EdgeRouters… with the stock Ubiquiti firmware.

  • Omagod

    @Neccie: Thanks for the great information! The fast-NAT feature makes sense. I have tried every conceivable firmware and setting combinations but I just can’t get the wireless speed I need.

    My main reason for running DD-WRT was to allow broader 5GHz channel selection. I have lived in the same apartment for many years, and up until fairly recently, I owned the upper 5GHz channels. Now, no longer so.

    I have ordered two routers that I’m going to play with: ASUS RT-AC3100 and ASUS RT-AC5300. I’m also installing an AC1900 PCI wireless card into my PC. Since ASUS uses modified DD-WRT firmware, it will give me the mid-band channels I need to stay out of the interference, and if I stay with the tri-band, I’ll have fail-over capability for the fastest channel.

    Thanks for your input!

  • Pingback: Replace Your Google Fiber Network Box with a Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite()

  • John Ivans

    @Jon – Do you know of any instructions to upgrade to the Tomato version ? Is there a Link that you can post ?

  • Darren

    Thanks for all the tips Steve. I have just configured my E4200 like you suggest above.
    I also have an Apple time Machine connected to the E4200 by ethernet and doing speed tests I am getting up to 82Mbps when connected to the Time Machine’s wifi, however only 35Mbps when connected to the E4200.
    Could this just be hardware differences between the 2?

    • HI, Darren. It could be just hardware, but it might also be settings and/or interference related. Are you able to tell which antenna (2.4 vs 5) you’re connecting to on both devices for both tests?

  • kbarb


    I’m thinking the way you’re headed, you probably should just jump in and build your own router :

    “Numbers don’t lie—it’s time to build your own router – ArsTechnica”

    You probably already saw that I would imagine.

    • Well, truth be told I’m migrating completely to Ubiquiti hardware. It’s much easier to tweak for performance. 🙂

  • Based on the relative location of your laptop, it’s sensing that the 2.4GHz signal is stronger, and choosing that antenna instead. The only way to “force” the laptop to use the 5GHz is to set a different SSID, and tell the MacBook Pro to auto-connect to the 5GHz SSID instead of the 2.5GHz one. The 2.5Ghz WiFi signals generally travel farther than the 5GHz ones.

  • Lior Dafadi

    But i’m setting next to the router…it is not related to the configuration i have?
    5GHZ –
    Channel – 136
    Channel Width – 40
    Extension Channel – lower

    • Try channel width 20. With some Apple products, that’s the key. 🙂

  • __JP__

    Hi Steve, I have 2 e4200 v1 hardwired bridged. I have found that using K3.x 29048 “mega” build my internet speed went from 130mbps to 75mbps. The DD-WRT firmware considerably slower compaired to the e4200 v1 Firmware Version: 1.0.06. I have also noticed that the 2.4ghz band is a lot slower than the 5ghz band when doing speed tests and I don’t understand why. I tested with laptop, iphone 6 plus and Nexus 10. I have both set to manual channels and tried changing all the settings.

    • Jon

      __JP__ I did a lot of testing in early Jan 2016 on various e4200 v1 routers I have, I found that K3.x 28211 and even K3.x 28598 (12/24/15) resulted in far less wired download speeds than the same K2.6 builds. So e4200 DD-WRT routers for me remain on the K2.6 train, which is DD-WRT v3.0-r28598 mega (12/24/15) for now. If you use K3.x whatever your download speeds will be much lower than they should be! You have been warned! This may change on later K3 builds. However I have not tested on the very latest (e.g. those dated Feb 2016).

      • __JP__

        I got confused sorry. So you are saying DD-WRT v3.0-r28598 mega is the best build you have tested so far? I have mine on AdvancedTomato AIO latest with the modprobe bcm_nat hack from one of the posts below and its running really fast. Just not undertanding why the wifi rates value are different under 2.4 and 5ghz. 5ghz will say 450mbps but 2.4 will say 144mbps….strange. Also overclocked to 532

  • Hi, Charlie. I don’t use OpenVPN myself, but I’m looking at the Services/VPN tab on that build, and all the goodies seem to be there!

    • Charlie Runnalls

      Thats good to know, thank you.
      Brilliant article/guide and it will help me out in the next few days 🙂

  • PDK

    Are these settings still relevant to this router? Do you still stand by them I mean?

    • Yep and YEP! 🙂

      • PDK

        Steve. I get 75 Mbps for unverse. My 5ghz-side gets 45-60. My 2.4, which is N-only gets 17-24. I only have N-devices so both are set for N-only. Both sides can handle 75. Why is the 2.4 getting so much less?

        • Are the channel widths the same? If so, then interference on the 2.4 channel is probably the culprit. Experiment with different channels to see if that improves things.

      • PDK

        FYI, I use all your settings including startup script.

  • If you’re already at 22000M, then you SHOULD be able to just upgrade directly. If anything acts weird, tho… just do the 30/30/30 and start over with the config.

  • Nicolas Viéville


    Wanted to say that since I bought an e4200, I followed this great article, and because of this blog I flashed it with DD-WRT.

    But, since I wanted to “Use DD-WRT to Create a Guest WiFi Network and Block Skype” (another article of your blog), I encountered the “DD-WRT VAP not broadcasting SSID and don’t allow wireless connexion unless security settings are off” (e.g. no WEP or WPA or WPA2 to secure this guest access).

    Unfortunately your DD-WRT recommended builds don’t allow to setup this functionality.

    I was able to setup a wireless guest access according to your post with WPA2 Personal AES settings only when reverting to DD-WRT build 25974.

    I thought it was useful to share this information.

    Thanks again for these great blog posts about DD-WRT.

  • P-a Bäckström

    Nvm, got it working now. Turned out that the internal server stubbornly refused to set the correct gateway and therefore the connection could not be established. While almost going bald over this, I did however go for Kong 22000++ in the process and it was after that I first saw the forwarded packets on the server.

    Hats off for mentioning the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter. It’s about time to replace the good old E4200 as my main router anyway, so I’ve ordered one of those 🙂

    • You’re going to love the UBNT router. I still use my E4200 as the WiFi antenna in a couple of my setups with UBNT routers, and I get blazing fast throughput.

  • Hi, Ray. I use wireless printers in my home and office, so I’ve never had to tinker with the DD-WRT printer settings. I’d recommend the DD-WRT forums to help troubleshoot that.As far as a future router goes, I’ve made the switch to Ubiquiti (UBNT) products. Their USG (Ubiquiti Security Gateway) is an excellent product for home or small office use.

  • Hi, Louis. The version numbers can be confusing. That V3.0 doesn’t actually refer to the kernel, but to the software version of DD-WRT. Check the “Kernel Version” line on the Status/Router tab.

  • James

    Hi Jon

    Could you please show me how to upgrade from dd-wrt flash to tomato? I have two e4200v1 flashed to k3.x and k2.6. I’d like both to fly to Tomato moon. Thanks!!!!

  • Dave Houser


    I recently moved to a new home, and have FiOS installed (150Mbps down/up). I can’t get my WAN speeds above 100Mbps. Do you know why this is? I have heard that DDWRT uses a software NAT which limits the way the CPU can send throughput, is this the problem? Is there a solution?

    I am currently running

    DD-WRT v24-sp2 (06/07/14) kingkong – build 22000M

    From SSH

    [email protected]:~# grep DD /tmp/loginprompt
    DD-WRT king kongmod Release: 06/07/14 (SVN: 22000:23903M)

    Is there a difference between the 22000M and 22000++? Hardware is running on a E4200 V1.

    • Hey, Dave. It’s sad news, but the E4200 just isn’t up to the task of the higher throughputs. I’ve moved to the UBNT EdgeRouter with a separate UBNT access point. Blazing fast.

  • Ning

    Hello Steve,

    Thanks for this great article which makes my E4200 v1 life much easier. I wonder if you share a similar experience that when you move around the house, you kind of in-out the range of 5ghz. Ideally, when you sit closely to router, you want the router to switch the client to 5ghz, vice versa. I wonder if one can come up with a script to monitor 2.4Ghz RSSI of given pool of mac address (those have both 2.4ghz and 5ghz capability), and the router will disconnect the client when it sees its 2.4ghz RSSI strong enough (i.e. the client is close, and should use 5ghz), and the client will automatically reconnect to 5ghz. Would this work? Thanks.

  • TheJT

    Hi Steve, I’ve recently tried the 30771 from the beta section you have linked, and I’ve received a nice boost in speed.
    Usually 18 to 20 Mbps , Now 30. Are they safe enough to use? Very happy so far.

    • I’ve been experimenting with later builds, too, and have been happy with the results. I’m THIS close to updating the article with a new stable build recommendation.

      • Char Winger

        Is that still a 2.6 build, or have the 3.X builds improved?

        • I still use the 2.6 builds. But I should probably run another K3.x speed test to see how it goes. I now recommend 30880.

      • BearJammer

        Hi Steve, any closer to your recomendation?

        • Yep! I’m now cool with 30880. Ones newer than that seem to have OpenVPN issues that are still being worked out.

          • BearJammer

            Thank you Sir! Love your Blog, and just updated to Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite and AP Pro based on your/other recomendations. So, for ~$250-300 you get router and an AP with much more capability and way better coverage/speed, and room to grow. They are less user friendly though. Will still keep the e4200 and e3000 for expansion/backup.

          • Yes, it’s more spendy… but I haven’t regretted the move. Hopefully, you won’t have to tinker with it after it’s set up. 🙂

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  • Ray

    Steve, i have a friend that I set this up on 3 of his offices for him. He uses a Macbook that is running version 10.11.6 of the OS it stopped working at the locations running newer firmware the one location that works with his macbook is running DD-WRT V24-SP2 (04/09/15) mega – build 26653 linux #24931 Thu Apr 9 01:24:35 CEST 2015 mips

    an example of what isn’t working is Firmware Version DD-WRT v3.0-r29739 mega (05/19/16)
    Kernel VersionLinux #29692 Thu May 19 00:44:04 CEST 2016 mips

    can you advise me as to what I may be doing wrong or what might be a fix.. I follow your setup then i use the long version for making it an access point this is what I have been doing for a long time any advice?

    one other question I have these setup in Medical offices running the Netgear SRX5308 Firewall/ Router with Auto Fail over and a cellular modem incase the cable service dies. I have a Nettgear GS752TX-100NES Switch as the primary Switch and the 3 E-4200 V1’s for wifi. I read how you upgrade to UBNT EdgeRouter with a separate UBNT access point do you think a wac720 or WAc730 would offer the same performance better or worse? any advice? I just have t ypically installed Netgear Thanks

    • My gut says it’s a settings issue. Channel width, or channel itself, or something of the kind. I’d 30/30/30 reset them all and start the config from scratch, making sure they’re consistent with each other.

      I don’t know anything about the Netgear stuff, as I haven’t played with it. I’m still very happy with the UBNT solutions, tho.

  • Patrick H.

    Ubiquiti AC Lite – I decided to throw in the towel with my e4200. I went and bought two Ubiquiti AC Lites for my home and I won’t ever change. Easy to configure using the controller for all APs. Thanks for all the support Steve over the years. I followed your blog and used it to upgrade. I just couldn’t keep doing it any longer.

  • Chris Colden

    Hi Steve,

    Your script has interference 4. Should this not be 3 for auto? I cannot find a 4 documented anywhere.

    ## Set eth1 wireless LAN interface mitigation to Auto (Default: Not set)
    wl -i eth1 interference 4

    ## Set eth2 wireless LAN interface mitigation to Auto (Default: 1)
    ## Comment out the followoing line if on a SINGLE radio device
    wl -i eth2 interference 4


  • Irateb

    Hey Steve! Long time follower, first time commenter. I had been using the Kong 22000+ with your settings for a few years now, and yesterday I decided to try one of the newer DD-WRT firmwares . I ended up going back to the Kong because none of the DD-WRT firmwares would automount my USB drive with multiple partitions properly. They all wanted to automount to just one mount point, which in turn messed up my OTRW and swap partitions. I could have done some manual work to straighten it all out, but I didn’t notice any other added value other than the overclocking option in the GUI. Not sure if anyone else has run into this, but just thought I’d mention it. Thanks again for all your posts!

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  • I think you are looking at the DD-WRT version number, not the Linux kernel version. The current DD-WRT version is v3.0, and that applies to all builds on both K3.x K2.6. Check the Status / Router tab to see for yourself. 🙂

  • Great tip. I didn’t know this! I’m going to tinker with it myself to see if I can get the same results (I’m guessing I will). Thanks!

  • __JP__

    When you say internet port do you mean WAN? I have two e4200 hardwired bridged from main router lan port to bridge router wan port.

    • Kai Harrekilde-Petersen

      My label says ‘Internet’ on yellow background, but it’s the WAN port that sits in the middle of the chassis (vs the four ports marked ‘Ethernet’ in white-on-blue print)

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  • Craig Schafer

    Thanks Steve. Unfortunately build K2.6 30880 for me has some issues with JFFS — missing from the Admin GUI and couldn’t get it working manually. So, I went ahead and am using the latest K2.6 31227 so far for 3-4 days without incident.

  • It *used* to exist on the earlier drivers. I’ll have to go tweak. 😉

  • Lior Dafadi

    Steve, my e4200 is running k.3- DD-WRT v3.0-r30880 mega (11/14/16)
    I tried to downgrade this to k2.6 but it seems it is still with the k.3.0.
    could you please advise what are the steps in order to downgrade this to k2.6?

  • Борис Оганов

    There is a E4200. For many years I use your blog.
    Can I get dd-wrt 30880K2.6_mega (30880K3.x_mega) to work with Huawei E3372H (Hilink)? And with a Huawei E353 (Mode “only modem”)? The Huawei E353 works in 22000kingkong and dd-wrt.v24-23040_NEWD-2_K2.6_mega-e4200.
    Kong (http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=984980) wrote that in new versions of dd-wrt the does not work of hilink interface …
    Thank you.