New capacitor in place

How to Fix a Whirlpool & KitchenAid W10219463 / 2307028 Control Board for $6 590

UPDATE: Whirlpool has finally publicly admitted (kind of) that they’ve left their customers “high and dry” with this control board issue. They published this Class Code 91 Letter (though they never actually explain what “class code 91” means and Google wasn’t any help) with a list of all the model numbers that use the control board discussed in this article… and there are a lot. The letter states “Due to the failed ACU board W10219463 and the complexity of the control boards function the only resolution is to replace the entire control assembly with a service kit.” I have no idea about the price of this new “service kit,” but I’m confident that the process I explain below is just as effective as it’s always been in solving the control board issue. I recommend you try my extremely cheap and affective (read the comments to see how many people it’s worked for) approach first, before you spend big money on a new Whirlpool part.

In 2007, I purchased a brand new, stainless steel, side-by-side KitchenAid refrigerator for our Utah house. It worked great for almost 7 years, until two months ago… when I noticed a small puddle of water coming from under the fridge. Upon further investigation, I also noticed that the unit wasn’t able to keep the freezer below 0° F or the fridge below 38° F, and and that the metal divider between the fridge and freezer (which is called a mullion strip) was warm enough to make the rubber door seal give off a faint melting/burning odor. I guessed that all the problems might be related, but I wasn’t sure how. I decided to attack the temperature and mullion strip problem first.

One of the most common causes of a fridge not being able to keep temperature (as well as a warm mullion strip) is dirty condenser coils. If not cleaned regularly, they can get clogged with dust and prevent airflow from cooling the coils as the condenser fan tries to draw air through them. I removed the vented plastic cover on the bottom of the fridge, where air is supposed to come in, and inspected the coils. Ewww. They looked like this:

This is what condenser coils that haven't been cleaned in years look like.

This is what condenser coils that haven’t been cleaned in years look like.

As gross as that looks, it actually made me happy. I figured this was the cause of at least one of my problems, and that cleaning the coils with a vacuum would solve it. After a quick cleaning, they did look much better!

Cleaning the coils would certainly fix my problem... our would it?

Cleaning the coils would certainly fix my problem… our would it?

With the condenser coils clean, I rolled the fridge forward so I could check behind it. The puddle of water was bigger back here, so I knew I was closer to the source. I put my hand down next to the vent at the bottom corner of the fridge, expecting to feel warm air coming out as the condenser fan drew room air from the front of the fridge, across the newly cleaned condenser coils, and out the vent:

Checking for air flow from the condenser fan

Checking for air flow from the condenser fan

To my dismay, I felt nothing… which meant my problem was worse than simply dirty condenser coils. Time to take things to geek DEFCON 3, which meant busting out my tools!

Using a 1/4″ hex head drill socket, I removed all the sheet metal screws from the fridge’s rear panel:

Removing the rear panel to access the condenser fan

Removing the rear panel to access the condenser fan

I could hear the compressor running, but I could see that the condenser fan wasn’t spinning.

That’s bad.

That’s very bad.

To oversimplify it a bit, that means that while the compressor was circulating coolant through the metal tubes inside the fridge (to absorb heat) and through the tubes attached to the condenser coils outside the fridge (to release that heat and cool off), the condenser fan wasn’t drawing any air from the front of the fridge and across the coils to help them cool off. That’s explains why the mullion strip (which houses some of those heat-exchanging tubes inside the fridge) was warm, and why the the unit wasn’t able to keep things cool.

I also noticed that the small plastic tube feeding water to the ice maker was resting against one of the copper heat-exchanging tubes. That tube was hot (due to the fan not working), and it had melted a small hole in the ice maker supply tube. Every time the ice maker called for water to make more ice cubes, water would spray out of the hole, forming a puddle on the floor. Here’s a close-up of the slightly melted water tube:

Over-heated heat copper exchange tubing melted a hole in my ice maker feed tube

Over-heated heat copper exchange tubing melted a hole in my ice maker feed tube

I still didn’t know why the condenser fan wasn’t working, but at least I’d solved the mystery of the puddle! So to help cool off the condenser coils while I continued to troubleshoot, I grabbed a floor fan, turned it on HIGH, and set it at the rear of the fridge (my floor fan actually has double fans, but for obvious reasons I only turned on the bottom one).

Floor fan blowing air across the condenser coils

Floor fan blowing air across the condenser coils

Normally, the fridge’s condenser fan would pull air from the front of the fridge and push it out the vent in the rear. But because I still wanted to be able to open the fridge doors, I put my fan at the rear of the fridge pushing air across the coils and out the front. As long as air is flowing across the coils, they’ll cool properly, and after a few minutes with the fan running, the mullion strip started to cool and temperature inside the fridge began to drop!

As the fridge cooled off, I turned my attention to what I knew would be the easy fix: the melted ice maker tube. First, I shut off the supply valve in the wall behind the fridge.

Ice maker water shut-ff valve

Ice maker water shut-ff valve

Next, I used scissors to cut out the melted section of plastic tube.

Cutting out the melted section of tube

Cutting out the melted section of tube

It looks like a sad and deformed piece of macaroni!

It looks like a sad and deformed piece of macaroni!

After a trip to a nearby hardware store, I returned home with a 1/4″ quick-connect plastic coupler, which is a far easier (and reliable) way to repair refrigerator water lines than trying to use copper fittings.

1/4" quick-connect plastic coupler

1/4″ quick-connect plastic coupler

I pushed the connector onto one side of the ice maker tube:

Quick-connect half-way done

Quick-connect half-way done

then pushed the remaining tube into the other side:

...and done!

…and done!

I turned the supply valve back on, and re-routed the plastic tube away from any copper heat exchange tubing to avoid such problems in the future, and turned my attention to the condenser fan.

A condenser fan is designed to run any time the compressor runs. If your compressor is running, but your condenser fan isn’t, then one (or possibly both) of the following two things is broken:

  1. The condenser fan itself
  2. The control board that provides voltage to the fan when it’s supposed to run

In most cases, your fridge’s condenser fan is designed to go bad long before its control board does. Swapping out the fan is relatively fast and inexpensive, assuming you can get your hands on one (and they’re not hard to find). I removed the wiring plug from the fan, and checked the fan’s label to see what voltage it required:

The label says the fan wants 115V

The label says the fan wants 115V

I also noted the fan’s part number (UDQR007W7), and was happy to find that I could buy a new one on Amazon for less than $60. Please be a dead fan… please be a dead fan… I pressed buttons inside the fridge to lower the desired temperature, which kicked on the compressor. Using my volt meter, I checked the voltage on the wiring plug that I’d removed from the fan. At first, I read 109V:

109V reading

109V reading

Then zero: IMG_2568 Then 112V:



Then zero again. The low and intermittent power readings let me to suspect that maybe the problem wasn’t with the fan, but rather with the control board that’s supposed to send at least 115V (and probably more like 120V) to the fan whenever the compressor is running.

To find the part number for the control board, I went to my fridge’s secret compartment. Did you know your fridge has a secret compartment? Yep – it probably does! Because professional appliance repair dudes can’t possibly remember all the various part numbers for every electronic piece on your fridge (and let’s face it… if they did have that ability, they probably wouldn’t be working as appliance repair dudes), most manufactures hide printed wiring and service sheets somewhere in a part of your fridge that anyone other than a repair dude would probably never look. On this KitchenAid fridge, it’s tucked inside the rear of the plastic vented cover that I’d removed to clean the condenser coils:

The secret compartment where the printed schematics are hidden

The secret compartment where the printed schematics are hidden

And here’s what it looks like unfolded:

It may not be a treasure map, but it's still got what you're looking for!

It may not be a treasure map, but it’s still got what you’re looking for!

The service sheet showed the main circuit board’s part number was 2307028. I looked up that part number, figuring I’d able to quickly get my hands on one for decent price, especially since my fridge was only 7 years old, right?



My search results included a number of major online appliance parts outlets that listed the control board’s part number… but all of them showed it as “Out of Stock.” After 20 minutes of searching through parts providers’ websites and owner DIY forum posts, I was shocked to discover that I was far from the first to have these types of problems with a KitchenAid, Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, or JennAir fridge — all of which used this exact same Whirlpool control board with part number 2220398, W10219463, AP4411082, 2307028, W10185291, 2307005, 2303934, 2252111, or 2223443 (depending on the brand).

But the kicker was that all sources reported the same thing: that part is discontinued, and Whirlpool Corporation (who owns KitchenAid and all those other brands) doesn’t make it any more! I figured there’s no way that could be true. My “high-end” fridge had cost thousands of dollars… and was barely seven years old! KitchenAid’s website, however, still showed the part priced at $225.79 as a “Special Order” item:

This actually doesn't make me feel special...

This actually doesn’t make me feel special…

I called KitchenAid’s customer service line and asked for their parts department. They informed me that their website was mistaken — they no longer make the part. But they did give me a phone number for an independent repair company (CoreCentric Solutions) that I could contact, arrange to ship my board, have them repair it, and ship it back. I took down the number, but wasn’t ready to give up so quickly.

Further online research revealed an apocryphal story about the Japanese manufacturer of these boards being destroyed in the tsunami of 2011. I’m not sure if I believe that, but even if it is true, I find it hard to believe that Whirlpool Corp was unable to find another source willing to make them. They probably didn’t want to incur the cost of establishing a new vendor and going through quality control… although, with the seemingly high failure rate of these boards, it doesn’t seem like quality control is really that big a deal to them.

Anyway, when my “regular” DIY parts sources don’t come through for me, I go where all power shoppers go: eBay! I searched for “2307028” on eBay and was flabbergasted by what I found. Turns out you can buy a replacement control board… for $850! Obviously, once this problem became widespread among the thousands of owners whose refrigerators rely on this defect-prone board, the laws of supply and demand took hold… driving the price of this control board to nearly half the price of a new fridge (or a tenth of the price if you bought a $9,000 Architect Series model). eBay listings also included repair services for the control board priced around $250. That’s still nuts for a board that used to cost less than that brand new! In my geek rage, I decided I’d do a little more tinkering before I caved and paid for the repair. It was time to yank the control board and see if I could identify the problem myself.

I unplugged the fridge, moved my fan out of the way, then used a screwdriver to remove the inverter box (the grey plastic box in this photo):

The grey plastic inverter box needs to be moved out of the way to access the metal control board housing

The grey plastic inverter box needs to be moved out of the way to access the metal control board housing

With the inverter box out of the way, I removed the screws holding the metal control board housing in place, then pulled the housing out to expose the control board:

The infamous Whirlpool / KitchenAid control board!

The infamous Whirlpool / KitchenAid control board!

I unplugged all of the connectors (it’s always smart to snap photos like this before taking anything apart), and got my first clear look at the naughty control board:

Control board with all connectors removed

Control board with all connectors removed

I removed the board from the metal housing by pinching the five plastic pins (one in each corner plus one in the middle) and put it on a towel on my kitchen counter to get a better look:

Control board, up close and personal

Control board, up close and personal

Because I knew the problem presented as intermittent power to the fan, I speculated that cause was most likely one of the following three things:

  1. A bad physical connection where the board connected to the wire running to the fan
  2. A failed (or failing) capacitor that regulates the power to the fan
  3. A failed (or failing) relay that switches power to the fan

I traced the two condenser fan wires back from the fan to determine which of the six plastic plug connectors on the board fed voltage to the fan, and it turned out to be two of the pins in the connector marked P5 on the board (lower right corner in the photo above). I tested the wires for continuity, and they checked out fine. I flipped the control board over, and re-soldered the pins on connector P5, thereby (hopefully) eliminating possibility #1. To eliminate possibility #2, I inspected the capacitor nearest the P5 connector (looks like a silver cylinder wrapped in black plastic in the photo). It was a 220 uf 35V (pronounced “two-twenty microfarad thirty-five volt”) unit, and if you carefully compare its top to the other two capacitors in the above photo, you’ll notice that the light reflects off it differently… meaning it could be slightly bulging at the top, which is a sure sign of failure (or impending failure). Here’s a closer shot of all three capacitors (the one in question sits in position C32):

Faulty capacitor? Maybe...

Faulty capacitor? Maybe…

I figured I wouldn’t take any chances, and capacitors are cheap… as in “$1.49 at Radio Shack for a new one” cheap. I don’t shop at “Da Shack” much these days (update – Radio Shack is now out of business), and there’s a store less than two miles from the Utah house. A few minutes later I was back home with a replacement:

Will Radio Shack part 272-1029 do the trick?

Will Radio Shack part 272-1029 do the trick?

Since Radio Shack closed down, there’s probably not a local electronics store near you where you can run out and buy a new capacitor. So if you’re following these same steps to fix your fridge, a comparable one would be an Amico 610256488578 ($5.50 on Amazon with free Prime Shipping) or a Nichicon UPW1V221MPD ($3.25 on Digi-Key plus around $5 shipping). An upgraded capacitor (that will still fit and last the longest) is a Panasonic EEU-EB1J221 (62 cents + shipping on Amazon).

I desoldered the old capacitor:

Old capacitor removed from location C32

Old capacitor removed from location C32

and soldered in the new one, making sure to keep the “stripe” on the side of the capacitor facing the same direction (toward the bottom of the board) as the original (which is more important than just cosmetics):

New capacitor in place

New capacitor in place

To eliminate potential problem #3, I’d have to figure out which relay controlled the fan. I flipped the board over, and traced the circuit with my finger from the connecting pins and determined that the potentially faulty relay was the second one from the top in this photo:

Relays on the control board

Relays on the control board

The relay shows NAIS part number JQ1P-B-12V-Y3, meaning it’s a 12VDC relay (i.e. the relay coils expect 12 volts of direct current to actuate) and it’s also marked “4A 125VAC” (meaning its contacts are rated to handle a circuit of up to four amps of 125 volt alternating current). Among all three possible problems, this relay had the highest probability of being the actual culprit. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find a source for these relays in Utah, and I was headed back to Seattle in two days, so I wouldn’t have time to find one online and get one shipped. I hoped that maybe fixes #1 and #2 had solved the problem, so I re-installed the board and powered up the fridge. After a few minutes, the compressor came on… and so did the fan! Hooray! But after another minute or so, the fan stopped… while the compressor kept running. Nooooooo! I tested the voltage to the fan connector once again, and was disappointed to read only 88V:

88 is the perfect MPH for a time travelling Delorean, but bad for a 115V fan

88 is the perfect MPH for a time travelling Delorean, but bad for a 115V fan

And then zero volts again. Arrgggh…. Power still wasn’t getting off the control board reliably. I don’t leave a lot of food in the fridge when I’m not in Utah, but I didn’t want the food inside the freezer the thaw, so I decided I’d throw a temporary fix at the fridge while I was back in Seattle for a few weeks, and then deal with the control board issues again when I returned the following month. Using an old VCR power cord and some spare computer power cables, I cobbled together a 120V power cord and spliced it directly into the condenser fan. This meant that the fan was plugged directly to the wall, and no longer powered by the control board, so it would run 24/7:

Home-made fan power cable

Home-made fan power cable

Why did I make a connector instead of just wiring the fan directly to the cable? Good question! It was so I could easily disconnect it and install the back vent panel on the fridge, which is an important part of ensure proper air flow over the condenser coils:

Fan connector through the vents

Fan connector through the vents

I used the fridge normally for the next couple of days, and then returned to Seattle.

On my next trip down to Utah the following month, the fridge continued to work fine with the compressor fan running 24/7, and I was tempted to leave it as it was… but the question of that final relay was still nagging me. So, at the end of my week there, I emptied the fridge (we used all the frozen food that week), removed the control board again, and decided I’d wasted enough time on the board myself. I phoned the company that KitchenAid’s customer service had suggested: CoreCentric Solutions. They quoted me $121 (including shipping) to “recondition” the board and send it back to me with a one-year warranty. I figured that’s a far better deal than some of the other online locations such as that offer to do it for $220! I shipped it off, using the Utah house’s address as the return shipping address, so the repaired board would be waiting for me the next time I went to Utah (which was only three weeks later). As you can imagine, I was extremely curious to examine the board and compare it to the “before” photos I’d taken. Here’s what my “reconditioned” board looks like now:

Reconditioned board from CoreCentric Solutions

Reconditioned board from CoreCentric Solutions

At first glance, it was obvious they’d replaced the C32 capacitor (the exact same one I’d already replaced myself), but their “RECONDITIONED” sticker conveniently covered the other new item on the board. Here’s a close-up shot with that sticker removed:

One of these things is not like the other...

One of these things is not like the other…

I knew it! The original board had four identical NAIS-branded relays here, but CoreCentric Solutions had replaced the second one from the top with an Omron 12V relay that was rated to support up to a 10A 250VAC circuit… which is considerably beefier than the original NAIS relay that was only rated for 4A 125VAC. Omron’s part number for this replacement relay is G5Q-14-DC12. The bummer (for me) is that you can buy that relay between $4 – $8 on Amazon or Digi-Key. One of my readers recommends using an even better-rated G5Q-14-EU12DC relay (available on Mouser).

I flipped the board over to inspect the solder joints:

Checking which solder joints are new

Checking which solder joints are new

It’s easy to see a human-made solder joint vs. a machine made one, so I was able to quickly verify that CoreCentric had replaced nothing else on the board. I’d spent $121 to confirm exactly what I’d thought… the fix for the board was a capacitor and a relay totaling somewhere between $6 and $10 in parts. Live and learn.

I installed the “reconditioned” board back in the refrigerator:

Repaired board back in place

Repaired board back in place

I buttoned everything back up, and fired it up. After a few minutes, the compressor and fan came on… and they stayed in sync the entire week. The fridge now works great again!

To make my $121 “tuition payment” worthwhile, I hope that anyone else experiencing this problem finds this blog post, tracks down a replacement capacitor and relay, then replaces them on their own control board themselves (or you can ask a geeky friend with basic soldering skillz to do it for you). I’m very disappointed in Whirlpool Corp’s lack of customer service with this issue, particularly since this one control board affects so many of their products.

For your convenience, I’ve created a short Amazon Listmania list with the two components you’ll need for this fix, as well as a soldering iron and de-solderer if you don’t have them.

Or, you can search on your own for these part numbers:

Also, for your reference, here are a few of the model numbers of Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Kenmore, and JennAir refrigerators that use control board:


Yeah. That’s a bunch of them. And there are probably more! If you’re the owner of one of these refrigerators and have experienced this problem, please tell me about it in the comments!

Update: New to Soldering? Try a Desoldering Tool

If you’re new to soldering, you may want to consider using a desoldering tool when removing the capacitor and relay before installing the new ones. You can pick one at your local Radio Shack, or I’ve included one in my Amazon Listmania list for this fix.

Update: Solder Points for Replacement Relay

I’ve had a lot of positive feedback on this article, which is great. I love hearing about others who’ve been able to fix their refrigerators with these same steps.

I’ve also received some requests to point out exactly where the solder points for the relay are on the rear of the control board. This is another copy of a close-up of the rear of the board, with the five solder points for the relay that should be replaced outlined in red:

Five solder points for the relay are shown in red

Five solder points for the relay are shown in red

I hope it’s helpful!

Update: Don’t Replace Just the Capacitor

I’ve received lots of comments from readers who have successfully completed this fix on their fridges (yay!). But a recurring theme I’ve sees by reading those comments is a fridge owner who replaces only the capacitor (since it’s the easiest component to find), then re-installs the control board. In many cases, this works… for a short period of time. Eventually, however, the fridge stops working again and replacing the relay mentioned in my article does the trick for good.

The hard part of this entire process is taking your fridge “offline,” getting access to the control board, and removing it. While you’re going through that trouble, I strongly recommend that you replace both the capacitor and the relay at the same time. It’s literally only $5 – $10 more expensive. Hear me now, believe me later. 🙂

Update: Make Sure Your Fridge Isn’t In Demo Mode

One of my blog readers recently did this fix to his Kitchen-Aid fridge, but was disappointed when the fridge didn’t come back to life. He actually had fixed his fridge, but during his troubleshooting he had tried to put his fridge in “MAX COOL” mode, but accidentally put it in “DEMO” mode instead. Demo mode allows all the lights and electronics to work, but not the cooling (perfect for a demo unit in a store).

So when testing your fix, if your fridge is in demo mode, here’s how to put it back to normal:

  1. Shut off “MAX COOL” if it’s turned on.
  2. Press and hold the “MAX COOL” and “Cooling On/Off” buttons simultaneously until you hear a beep (the MAX COOL light will be off while both buttons are pushed).
  3. Turn on “MAX COOL.”
  4. To enable normal cooling mode, press and hold the “MAX COOL” and “Cooling On/Off” buttons simultaneously for about three seconds until you hear a beep.

Thanks to Jeff for sharing this great tip!

Update: How to Prevent This from Happening Again

Even though it will only take you $6 to repair your control board following these instructions, it might be worth a few dollars more to protect your fridge from future issues… by installing a fridge surge protector.

Power surges, nearby lightening strikes, and/or brown-outs (low power situations) are what cause the majority of household electronics problems. They weaken capacitors, fry relays, and installing a surge protector is cheap insurance against having to pull it apart, get parts, and maybe spoil a fridge and freezer full of food in the process. I suspect a thunderstorm (which are common in Utah) was the cause of my board’s failure.

To prevent it from happening again, I bought an RCA PSAPP1R Appliance Surge Protector, which cost me less than $25 (with free shipping from Amazon). A regular power-strip surge protector probably wouldn’t be sufficient — you want something that is designed to handle the amperage draw from you fridge when the compressor kicks on, and that has a fast “clamp” rate (reaction time to a power event).

The RCA PSAPP1R has two LEDs: a red one showing the power is on, and a green one showing that the appliance is protected. However, what I really love about this unit is that it has an audible beep when power protection kicks in… and the unit “sacrifices” itself to save the fridge. This is perfect, since it’s plugged into the wall behind my fridge where I can’t see the LEDs!

Here’s what mine looks like installed on the wall behind my fridge:

RCA Appliance Surge Protector plugged in

RCA Appliance Surge Protector plugged in

If it looks big in the photo… that’s because it is. It only plugs into one three-prong perceptible, but it takes up both receptacles’ space in standard two-receptacle outlet, and has a plastic “prong” on the back that slides into the bottom outlet’s ground hold to keep the unit stable on the wall:

RCA PSAPP1R flipped over

RCA PSAPP1R flipped over

However, if you only have a single three-prong outlet behind your fridge, I see no harm in cutting off that plastic prong on the back of the unit. It does nothing but help hold it in place. Of course, you do so at your own risk… and it will technically void the warranty. If your equipment does get damaged, any modification to the unit will be an excuse for them not to fulfill their guarantee.

The RCA surge protector allows you to plug in two appliances (one on each side), but I only needed one for my fridge.

Also keep in mind that this unit sticks out from the wall just over 2 inches, so you won’t be able to push your fridge flush against the wall. That’s a good thing, however… especially if it’s installed in a cabinet (like mine). You need a couple inches of vent space behind your fridge for air to be properly drawn in the front, over the condenser, and out the back.

To give you a better idea of how it looks, here’s an overhead shot showing how far the surge protector sticks out from the wall:

Fridge surge protector sticks out about 2 inches

Fridge surge protector sticks out about 2 inches

After installing the surge protector, my fridge slid right back into place, and the 2″ space at the back will probably do it some good!

So my advice to prevent this issue from happening in the future is to pick up an appliance surge protector that’s beefy enough to protect the electronics on your fridge (like the RCA fridge surge protector I got on Amazon).

Update: Radio Shack is Gone

When I first published this article, Radio Shack was usually the quickest and cheapest location for the capacitor you’ll need for the repair. Radio Shack has now gone the way of the Do-Do, so I’ve updated the links to other locations (such as Amazon and Digi-Key) where you can get the capacitor you’ll need. In fact, the capacitors I link to now are even better quality than the Radio Shack one.

Update: Inverter Box Replacement

After hearing the repair story of one of my readers named Marco, whose symptoms were worse than the ones I faced, I’ve written another post for Whirlpool / KitchenAid fridges on replacing the inverter box. If your fridge is totally dead and won’t power up, there’s a chance it could be the inverter.

  • Jake White

    Though I’m not having an issue with this, I just wanted to say I really enjoy reading your DIY blog posts. I’m a pretty avid DIYer myself, and I wish more people would post their solutions to problems online. Keep em’ coming!

    • Thanks, Jake!

      • Sven

        Steve replaced the capacitor and relay… works perfectly. Your are the best and yes and I like saving money and not being ripped off by Whirlpool who does not care about their customers. I would have been happy to buy a new board if I could buy one. Whirlpool and the other OEMs have most likely have planned obsolescent built into their components. They are in the business of selling frigs so I guess it makes sense but now they have lost a customer by not supporting their product. Most people will buy a new frig and not think twice about fixing it once it has reached its useful life (10 yrs) and that is what they are counting on. Replacing a frig in less then 7 years is a rip off. Whirlpool wake up….

        Just a note my frig has a temperature alarm which is most likely the beeping noise other people are hearing and have made posts about. They can turn it off to stop the beeping until they repair their frig. The button is on the frig side upper right hand side of the control panel.

        Again thanks for the “most excellent” post. If they had a web award for best post you would win hands down. A+++++++++++

        • Gary Brown

          I have an identical frig and problem at the moment. Wish I had read this before ordering repair at $79.00 from Ebay. If that doesn’t work, I know now that I can easily replace the Cap. and Relay. Your Blog is by far the best I have ever visited. Thanks. Whirlpool will not be my next Frig. buy! My frig is only 7-1/2 years old. I just called Whirlpool Pars this morning, the guy said we don’t support that part any longer, go on the Internet an try to find a solution!
          I did and that’s how I ran across your blog. You can be proud Steve, you’ve helped a lot of people. You had to spend a lot of time on the creation of it. Great Job!

          Gary Brown

          • Thanks for your very kind words, Gary. Sorry to hear you spent $79, but I’m still very glad you didn’t have to buy a new fridge. 🙂

      • Brendan

        Help! My board just came back from CoreCentric marked “un repaired”… “Microprocessor Unavailable”!!! Any miracle suggestions? Is the micro processor the part with “64” written on it? – Brendan

        • Ouch. I’m hoping CoreCentric also refunded your money. The microprocessor is the “chip” that acts as the brains on the board… and unfortunately, there’s no way to miracle your way around that. I interpret their message to mean that CoreCentric no longer has a supply source for the microprocessor, and as much as I hate to say it, I think that means your next best bet is to find a refurbished board on eBay. 🙁

          • Brendan

            Im not quitting yet! looking for microprocessor sources on-line. Q: is the micro processor the large chip on the board with “64” written on it in pen? $700 question!!! its a $25 part if that!

          • Hey Brendan…Did you got any about this???mine was returned by Corecentrics also…..any head up???

        • Brendan

          …$700 question here! Is the microprocessor the big chip on the board labeled “64” ?
          I have taken the numbers off the “#64 chip” and found cheap sources but I dont want to go through all the hassle if I cant be sure which chip is the microprocessor or if there are other deal breakers w my approach for a new microprocessor replacement. Thanks!

  • Larry

    Interesting. But are you sure 2220398 is the original number of the control board — rather than just for the ice maker control? Also, curious as to why, when you temporarily hooked up your floor fan, you didn’t turn it 180 degrees so it pulled air through in the same direction (front to back) as the condenser fan. Probably no difference in efficiency?

    • Right you are – thx. I’ve fixed the part number. 🙂 And the fan didn’t work backwards as well as I wanted it to, since I couldn’t enclose it behind the rear panel. So I opted for “turbo” mode, which actually helped cool stuff down faster!

  • Will

    How do you know when capacitors, relays, or whatever are bad? Is it primarily a visual test, such as looking for discoloration or bulging, or is there a way to test it without unsoldering pieces off of the board? I guess I need to learn how to read a circuit board better!

    • Hey, Will! Whether the capacitor is bulging is the “quick and dirty” way, but to truly test a capacitor you need a a digital multi-meter that measures in farads (and microfarads, and nanofarads, and picofarads, etc.). Testing relays can be trickier. To truly test, the low amp circuit on the relay needs to be powered, which engages the electromagnetic switch inside the relay that closes the high amp circuit (which allows power to flow to the “downstream” device the other side of the relay). So you’d need to power the low amp circuit, then test the high amp circuit for continuity. 12V relays are easiest to test because you can just hook up the low amp side to a battery, then throw a continuity tester on the high amp side, and hope for a “beeeeep!”

  • Mahmood

    You are the BEST. Thank you.

  • eric

    Liked the blog. I have the same fridge, same issue. I am sending mine off to be repaired, as I lack the soldering tools and confidence to complete without burning the other components on the board in half!

    • It’s always good to know if a DIY is outside one’s comfort zone, but glad to know you’ll be getting a repaired part back. 🙂

      • Vincent

        Hi Steve,

        Wanted to thank you so much for posting this solution. My refrigerator – a Whirlpool GC3SHEXNS00 – purchased around 2004 also started having the same problems.

        The compressor was constantly on, and the center divider (mullion strip) was reading at over 110 deg. F. I too noticed that the condenser fan was not coming on. I ordered a replacement fan before finding your site. I ended up replacing the fan anyway since I already had a new part…After finding your site, I went ahead and ordered a new relay switch from Newark – which – including shipping and tax cost $11.73.

        Interesting thing is my board isn’t 100% the same as the one you show on your site. There’s a huge transformer in the middle of my board and fewer caps. But the relays are in the same place – and are labeled the same (K2, K3, K4).

        Took me about 30 minutes to unsolder the old part and solder in the new one (a little tricky since it has 5 pins – and I didn’t have a desoldering tool). But once I got the board back in the refrigerator – it worked!

        Took a little while (2-3 minutes?) for the compressor to come back on, but when it did, the condenser fan spun up as well. The mullion strip stays cool now, and the compressor isn’t constantly on. I thought I was going to have to empty out my fridge, and send the board in for expensive repairs – or buy an insanely expensive replacement board – as it was, I didn’t have to take anything out the fridge, and was able to make all of the repairs in under an hour.

        Really appreciate your page, it saved me a LOT of time and money!

        BTW – I thought your name looked familiar – I followed your Tivo hacking site many years ago when hacked my first gen Phillips Tivo.

        • Hi, Vincent! The transformer difference isn’t a big deal, especially since yours is the Whirlpool vs. the KitchenAid version. But as you found, the relays are the same, and they are certainly part of the problem here. Glad you were able to get it fixed… and glad to see another old timer who remembers the good old TiVo hacking days. 🙂

  • Sarika

    Hi Steve, we also mailed our control board part off to Core Centric Solutions. It was returned, saying that they couldn’t fix it. However, it is obvious (by looking at the solder joints) that they replaced the capacitor and the relay (like yours). I have just hooked it up again and the lights on the control panel is on, but no fan/compressor sounds yet. I think you mentioned that I should wait a couple of minutes.

    Anyways, I have actually noticed that there is another single relay (opposite side on the board – almost across from the 4 relays) that looks like it had leaked at the back. Almost looks like there is a yellow discharge on the back. So I was wondering if I should maybe try to get another relay and then get someone to solder it back.

    But I am female and quite clueless when it comes to electronics, so I would appreciate your thoughts.

    Thank you very much!

    • Hi, Sarika. Yes – it could take up to 7 gut-wrenching minutes, so don’t give up hope until 8 mins have passed. 🙂

      I’m shocked they said they couldn’t fix it. However, I’ve actually seen the repaired ones dropping in price on eBay. Maybe the market has corrected itself? 🙂

      Relays don’t usually “leak” – since there’s generally nothing inside them that CAN leak. I’d call them back and ask for a more specific diagnosis of precisely WHAT they weren’t able to fix… especially if you paid them the repair fee! Please let me know if they tell you. I’m VERY interested to hear what they have to say!

      • Sarika

        Hi again Steve, I sent a message on April 4.

        This is a follow-up: So, CoreCentrics did not charge me for the repair (only had to pay shipping ($50 to the USA and another $50 back to us in Canada), but they were our only hope, at that stage). The receptionist could not (didn’t want to) transfer my call to a board tech and only kept on saying that the board was “unfixable” because is was a “bad prosessor” and couldn’t give me anymore info!

        So, I was extremely happy to find your blog. I actually came upon someone else’s message, saying that they had bought a new control board from for $100. So, realizing I probably don’t wanna fix the control board myself, I phoned Sears Canada. They couldn’t get the part from Sears USA (for reasons unknown). But Sears USA doesn’t ship to Canada! Luckely, I have a friend living in PA. They ordered this part and mailed it to me.

        I installed in late yesterday afternoon and left the fridge to cool during the night. When I woke this morning, the temperatures were perfect, BUT the mullion was burning hot! So, I revisited your blog and read again! I thought it must be a failed fan (since the control board must work!). Whilst the compressor was working (and the fan not moving), I just gave the fan a spin with my fingers, in frustration (it was a bit dirty) and whalla! It started spinning. So, I unplugged the fridge, cleaned the fan (and coils), and switched it on again.

        The fan has been working with the compressor, as it should. So, hopefully this will last! Thank you again for this great blog!!! Now I also know a little more about compressors, fans, relays, etc. You have made it possible for me (and many others) to be able to troubleshoot!!!! I will post again if anything changes.

  • Jay snouwaert

    Thank you for your great posting about the Kitchen Aid 2307028 Control board.

    We are in the same situation, although our unit is about 8 years old.

    1. Refrigerator stopped working, but was freezer okay for a day but then also quit. During this time we heard a beeping noise which we know is coming from the main control board.

    2. The repair people came out, said it was the fan behind the back panel in the freezer compartment and charged us $126. Later, apparently after the repair guy discussed some strange voltage readings he’d gotten with his boss, they decided it must be the control board and said the repair would be $700 dollars because it needed a new control board. We went on line and saw that Sears had one listed one for $91.00, so we ordered it. A week later when I called about it, they said that they were mistaken and they have none available.

    3. Opened up the back/bottom panel and like you found similar to what you describe that the condenser fan was not blowing and that the beeping noise was coming from the control panel.

    4. We unplugged the refrigerator and went to do some research on line, including your site.

    5. During this time of about a week, we found that if we plugged the refrigerator back in after it had been off for more than a day it would start up again and run for about 12 hrs before it would start beeping and stop cooling effectively. The time it would run varied but all the fans would be running correctly. However, if we tried plugging the refrigerator in after only a few hours, it kept beeping and the fan didn’t come on.

    6. Last time it turned off we did what you suggested. We wired the fan directly to an outlet, but have not yet replaced the capacitor or relay. This did not keep it from shutting down in about 6 hrs.

    7. The question we had is whether your board was beeping?? Once it crashed, did if ever come on again? Could our board be bad also but the failure is a different component?

    8. We have ordered a soldering kit and have located the capacitor you mentioned at Radio Shack. We’re planning to switch out the capacitor while leaving the condenser fan plugged directly into a wall out let. If that works, we’ll go ahead and order a replacement relay. If that doesn’t work, we’re trying to decide between ordering a replacement relay as you suggested, or going directly to sending the control board for refurbishing.

    We’d appreciate any advice you might have in the matter.


    • Hi, Jay. To answer your questions, no — mine was not beeping. And once it “crashed,” I couldn’t get it to turn on the condensor fan at all. It’s very possible that a different component could be at issue with yours, but if your condenser fan isn’t working, I suspect it’s the same issue… and you may just have a different build of board that “complains” with a beep.

      My fix is cheap and relatively easy, and if it doesn’t work, you can still send it off and get it fixed for around $120. Please come back and let us all know how it works out!

      • Jay

        Replaced the capacitor with one I bought at RadioShack and everything seemed to be working fine. So I reconnected the fan to the control board and everything still seemed fine. I screwed everything back into place, pushed the refrigerator back against the wall, and it’s been working better than before the problem started for more than 10 days now. My wife wrote the repair guy who misdiagnosed the problem in the first place, and they agreed that the information on how to fix the problem was worth $50 dollars off our bill.

        Thanks for all the information.

  • David

    Wow, It comes back to life. It is working … again !!! yahoooo.
    Thanks God I found your posting. Thank you so much Mr. Jenkins for your time and generosity in sharing your DIY blogs on the internet. Your work saved us at least a few hundreds dollars, lot of time and lot of headache. Total cost of repair: less than $1.46 for part and about 10 minutes soldering. Thank you again, will try to get back here to give more detail later. David L.

    • Hi, David. THAT IS AWESOME! One of the BIG reasons I love DIY projects is because it feels like I’m “sticking it to the repair guys” who would charge me full retail for parts and crazy hourly rates. The only feeling better than that is knowing that I helped someone else do the same thing… so it feels like I’ve “stuck it” to two of them. 🙂 Congratulations on a successful and cheap fix!!!!

  • steve,

    Thanks for this great blog. Are you saying that you replaced that one relay with the 5A omron relay or rather it was core centric who replaced it with the 5A? Then you’d put the original 4A back on? Does that relay control the compressor? Thanks for your site!


    • Hi, Tony. Corecentric did all the repairs to my board. I merely took “before” and “after” pictures so that I’d know EXACTLY what they changed… and then kicked myself because I could save changed them myself. 🙂

  • Sorry Steve,

    Just one more question. After looking for the 5A, I’ve come to a website that shows various ones that all read the same part number, only they apparently all do different stuff. Can you give me a hint as to which one it might be?

    Thanks again,


    • Hey, Tony. That website actually looks to me like it’s showing all the same relay, and just different distributors and their stock levels! But they all seem to be the right relay.

  • IceMan

    thank you so much! I have this same problem, and b/c of your pictures, I was able to confirm that my capacitor was bad. Thanks for also sharing the relay thing as well. I’m going to try replacing that as well

  • Jason

    Thanks. I was able to fix mine by swapping out the capacitor. Cheers

  • Mike


    First off, thank you for all you’ve done for everyone. Second of all, do you know if there is a difference between a 2307028 and2307028H? I did everything you’d said but my board was the one with the “H” after it. Not only did the LCD light up prior to me changing out the capacitor and relay (with an omron 5A 250VAC) but the problem still persists (in other words, now the LCD is out and the fridge doesn’t work.) What could I have done incorrectly, that is if you have ANY idea and is the difference in the board number suspect?

    Thank you,


  • Jimbo


    I read somewhere that the “power supply circuit” could be the issue on this board with certain people’s refriges. Being as keen as you are with this stuff, you wouldn’t happen to know what it looks like so that I may do what you recommend- change it out!?

    Thank you very much for your help Steve.


  • Kevin

    Wow! Ordered the parts from DigiKey online. Took two days to get and after a quick soldering job, the fridge was back working again. The total costs for the relay and capacitor was $4.99 Thank you very much for writing this article. It saved me time and money!

  • Bill

    Thank you for taking the time to educate everyone. I too had the hot mullion strip. Call ed the service dept and no parts. I am not capable of soldering, but did hot wire the fan. So far so good. But what else is not working? Only time will tell. Our K-aid SxS has custom panels installed on it, so we certainly want to keep out 6 year old unit as long as possible. Again thanks for your time.

    • Hey, Bill. If you’re not comfortable doing the fix yourself, just find a geeky friend who’ll do it for you and show them this post. 🙂

  • Domenic


    I wanted to share my experience & drop you a note of thanks
    Your blog is well documented, detailed & your diagnosis perfect!

    I have a 48 inch built in side by side Kitchen Aid that uses the same control board
    I replicated your troubleshooting steps & came to the same conclusion
    I order the parts (relay & capacitor) from a Canadian online supplier (yes I live in Canada) – total cost $13.34 (including $8 shipping) & the parts arrived next day
    A few minutes with a soldering iron & we were back to normal operation

    Its frustrating to see an expensive appliance become nonoperational due to a $0.88 part & shame on Kitchen Aid (Whirlpool) for cutting corners

    Thank you for your time & care to post

    Its good to know there are still good people willing to share their knowledge & experience


  • Jaggy

    I just fixed my Kitchenaide by replacing the capacitor too. My little 25w soldering iron would not melt the solder they used to make the board. I bought a 65w iron from the ‘Shack for $10. Thanks for posting your fix.

    • That’s awesome, Jaggy. With online retailers so easy to use, I don’t hit the ‘Shack for much these days any more… but I will totally admit that’s where my soldering iron comes from! 🙂 Congrats on the successful fix.

  • Erik Anderson

    Any ideas I replaced the capacitor and relay… At first the refrigerator didn’t work… It just beeped and the minion strip got hot.. I took the back panel off and it just started working… I then moved it on a uhaul trailer to my house about 35 miles away… Plugged it in… And same problem… The unit just beeps and the fan doesn’t work…

  • Ken

    Excellent write up Steve. My built in was beeping and unable to keep temp. Unfortunately, wife phoned a repair tech who replaced a fan for $200. Sure enough, beeping started soon after. After reading your post, i ordered the capacitor and relay switches. Took it into an electronics store since my soldering skills are non-existent. For $30, soldered capacitor and, to be safe, all 5 relays (bought for $8 total). Works like new!! Definite sense of accomplishment, and thoroughly impressed my wife with my incredible intelligence;)

  • Vince Bray

    Just did this repair with your excellent instructions. If it makes you feel better it actually cost $23 to get two relays and a capacitor shipped from Newark. Fridge was clicking and it was the fan relay that we were hearing. It would click and run the fan for random lengths of time then got shorter and shorter time running and quit. Fridge cooled the whole time until probably the thermal relay tripped and we shut it down until we could get the parts. Pretty sure we’re fixed and wanted to say a huge thanks to you for taking the time to post this!!



    • Vincent

      My guess is that small fan draws about 25-30 Watts – which is probably less than 1-2% of the total power the refrigerator is using. Other than prematurely wearing out the fan motor, I don’t see any reason why you couldn’t just leave it on all the time.

      Steve, thoughts?

      • I agree. As long as you periodically check to make sure it’s working, and clean dust from the blades (which will make it wear out quicker) when you check the dust build-up on the coils (which you should do more often than I originally did), having an external fan move the air around should be fine!

  • Patrick

    Thank you very much for your web page. Replacement of the
    capacitor on position C32 seems fixing my refrigerator problem too.
    My refrigerator had problems (very noisy, alarm/beep sounds, cold
    in freezer/warm in refrigerator, display on/off etc..). My wife and
    i could not notice any discolor or bulging of the capacitor, but i
    went ahead to replace it with new one from RadioShack, since i
    checked all other components (air damper, thermistors, fan
    (compressor, evaporator), heater etc. 7 minutes waiting time for
    compressor to turn on after replacement happened to me too. but my
    refrigerator first 24 hrs is bumpy, the temperature are up and
    down, from 6 to minus 10 for freezer and 38 to 44 for refrigerator.
    they finally became constant as what i set after 24 hrs. BTW, my
    model is KSSO48QMB01. Hope my frige will stay this way for a while!
    thank you again for sharing detail valuable experience and

    • Awesome, Patrick. I love hearing these kinds of success stories! 🙂

    • Cindy

      We just changed ours. I came back to the site to see if anyone said anything about the temperature after. Our fridge has been running for about 3 hours since replacing the parts and the freezer has come down to 0 degrees from 29 but the fridge has only come down from 46 degrees to 44. I’m hoping it just needs a little more time to cool down and all is okay.

      • Curious to see if everything is working for you, Cindy!

        • Cindy

          Tanks for asking. We’re still having a problem with the temps in the fridge. The freezer is holding at zero where it’s supposed to be but for some reason the fridge is going as high as 50 degrees. There are no more weird noises and cutting in and out so it seems to be running smoothly, I just don’t know why the fridge side is not as cool as it should be. I have the KSSC42QTS00. Do you have any suggestions of what else we can try? We changed out 2 relays and 2 capacitors in the two boards.

          • Cesar

            Hi just wondering if you were able to get this issue resolved. I replaced the cap and relay yesterday and my temps are stuck at 70 degrees on both the freezer and refrigerator sides. If I turn on the Quick Cool feature it drops the freezer temperature to -6 and the fridge temperature to 34. I has not “reset” itself the 0 degree temp for the freezer and 37 degree temp for the fridge side as it should be. Thanks.

    • Billy

      hey Patrick, was your main display turning on and off all the time with a beep from control board on top?

    • Joe Kane


      Thanks for the share. My very similar/identical 2007 fridge had a similar failure, except the fan was cycling on and off rapidly and hadnt completely failed yet. I ordered both the caps and relays, but the caps got here first. Examining the board, the cap was bulged and I know the electrolytic failure mode from my work. I did the cap replacement and am back in business. If it dies completely Ill have the relay on hand.
      It wasn’t initially obvious where the control board was located (on the side of the fridge) but after pulling out the inverter I could see it.

  • Patrick

    BTW, the manufacture date for it is 5/2005.

  • Brenda

    Steve! This is unbelievable! Just stumbled upon your post, while searching for a solution to this ridiculous problem that I too am having! Same exact issue, in fact I thought I wrote your story at first! I live in UTAH…..Will you come and fix mine? LOL!
    Not to sell women short, of course….but…I do not even have a tool! I need someone to fix mine!
    Thanks for your knowledge and great info!

    • Hi, Brenda! Even if I was in Utah currently, you don’t need me. You can totally do it! Or, just put an ad on KSL for someone with soldering skills to spend 30 minutes removing and soldering it (that’s all it will take) and trade them a dozen cookies. 🙂 Just make sure you have the two replacement parts already… and the cookies. I’m sure someone will help you out. 🙂

  • Mandy

    You are amazing! I had called a repair company for this issue and they decided it was the motherboard and told me it would be $500 and two weeks without a fridge to get it fixed. Mine was also pinging every few seconds as others have reported. I refused to believe that and found the control board on sale at amazon for $160. I thought, perfect I will just pop that in and all will be well. Of course, even though the picture showed the exact control board you have and I have, what arrived was something completely different. I sent that back and in the meantime found this post. I couldn’t believe this issue was so common that someone had done a step by step tutorial on how to fix it. I went to radio shack and got the capacitor. I actually took my laptop and showed them the photo in your blog. I had to order the relay online and wait a few days. Today I got the relay in and took everything apart. Having never soldered a board before I was pretty nervous and found that the de-soldering process was much much more difficult than soldering. For those of you reading this that like me have never done this, spend the extra few bucks on the little de-soldering vacuum gun. The braided copper is NOT for newbies!! After my efforts on the board, I was certain I would have killed it with all of that heat and clumsy soldering but I plugged it all in anyway and it came to life humming!! I am so excited! I am telling all of my friends how awesome it is to be able to do this from an internet post! I even bought a bottle of champagne to celebrate! Thanks again for the post! I was convinced I was going to have to get a new fridge because I didn’t see the point in paying $500 to fix one that has known issues. You saved me thousands!! If you are ever in Colorado Springs, I owe you a drink! 🙂

    • Wow, Mandy. Your first time soldering? That’s awesome! Congrats! Great suggestion on the vacuum gun, too. 🙂

  • Peter

    Hi Steve, thanks for posting all this information. I was able to use it to fix my 42″ KitchenAid, model KSSC42FMS01. I had the same symptom (hot mullion strip) and made the changes to the control board you identified to restore operation of the fan. One note for anyone who has the same model as me, all the working parts are located on top of the unit, not underneath or at the rear. But by removing the metal enclosures and following the wiring, it is quite easy to locate the control board. From there on, all your instructions work perfectly! Thanks again!

  • Thanks for the info and fix. I performed the fix, and the compressor is working fine, but the unit does not go into defrost mode. I have to go into diagnostic mode and force the defrost every day or so. Any ideas?

    • Hi, Eric. Sorry – I don’t have any first hand knowledge about that issue, but it makes sense that it could be another relay issue. I’d try swapping the other relays out, and see if that solves it.

    • Niles

      How did you enter into diagnostic mode? I have the same issue. Is your defrost mode issue fixed now? If so, what was the fix? Thanks!

  • I live in Austin, Tx, and have a house in Taos, New Mexico with what I think is the same KitchenAid fridge you have. Every symptom yours had matched mine, so I followed your instructions, and we’re back in business. Send me an email if you’re ever in Taos, I would love to share an adult beverage of your choice out of my nice cold refrigerator. Thanks so much for your fine detective work and for posting your findings.

  • eduardo

    thanks for the info, very helpful! i had the same problem, but for me, the capacitor was the culprit.

  • Kathleen

    Same problem with our 7 year old Kitchenaid built in. If I was not so annoyed, I would find the “send out” solution proposed by Kitchenaid to be laughable Was happy to find your post as I now have a clear understanding of what is wrong and a better idea of the actual cost to repair. Many thanks!

  • John-Peter Smit

    Steve, thanks for this – I wish I had read it sooner. I had the same issue and managed to find a new control panel, which I installed last night. The fridge works instantly better and the walls have cooled down. The only problem is that the digital display no longer works. The lights come on when I open the door and the blue light on the ice maker works but not the temperature settings. any thoughts? Thanks in advance!

  • John-Peter Smit

    OK I may have been a bit premature – turns out there is an on/off switch – who knew doh! now to see if it will cool properly. Keep you posted

  • Cindy

    Steve, You are amazing to take the time to post all of this. We own a Kitchenaid KSSC42qts00. So as previously commented, our board will be located on the top. We Paid almost $8000 for this fridge and have had it under 6 years. We have constantly had problems with the ice dispenser but now we have this board issue. Get this, we’ve already spent $600 plus to a service company just to figure out what the problem is. They sent us 2 different guys on 2 different occasions who still had to call Kitchenaid to find out that our board was bad. ‘Frustrated’ is mild to what I’m feeling right now. I agree with you in being disappointed with Kitchenaid on not being more responsible with this issue. It’s as if they just don’t care. I have contacted them twice. All they respond with is there’s only a 1 year warranty on the fridge and that when I get this problem fixed, it should be as good as new. I was about to order one from the site you mentioned “” when I came across your post. They are charging me $870 for a reconditioned board and to repair mine with a 2 year warranty. I can’t wait to show this post to my husband when he gets home. He is quite a do-it-yourself guy so I’m sure he can handle this.

  • Cindy

    Found these on Amazon. Are these the correct parts that I need?

    20 x 220uF 35V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor 8x12mm $4.63


  • Cindy

    Sorry, I just realized that you had the links to the parts that I need to order. I missed that. Thanks!

  • John Cole

    Just got off the phone with KitchenAid, they told me the same story about the company getting wiped out by the Tsunami. He than told me about sending the board to Corecentric to be reconditioned. He than put me on hold, once he came back he told me that KitchenAid had some new boards and that I had to send my old board back with-in 3 weeks after I had the new one replaced by a local KitchenAid technician. So if you are calling KitchenAid with this issue ask them if they have any control boards that they can send out as a loner.

    Good Luck Everyone

  • George

    Great post and I am glad I found your website for future reference. The fan on our KitchenAid KSSC36FMS01 side-by-side refrigerator/freezer stopped and the mullion strip was extremely hot. The unit is one month shy of 8 years old! I read elsewhere to try cleaning the coils and fan assembly. The unit is a built-in and everything is on top. I never pulled out the unit and cleaned it before and it sure was filthy. I cleaned everything and the fan started but stopped about a day later. I purchased a new fan for about $100 bucks at and installed it last night. The fan started immediately but stopped a few hours later. I decided to look at the control board and it looked fine but I didn’t really check for the beginning signs of a failing capacitor (it was late and I should have used better lighting). None of the capacitors was clearly bulging. I removed each wiring harness and then reattached each after very gently blowing the wiring and board with compressed air. The fan started again and has been running about 9 hours. I suspect the capacitor or relay is beginning to fail and I will be replacing them if the problem recurs. Many, many thanks for alerting us to the problem and fixes. Whirlpool products stink – I’ve had issues with their clothes washers and driers, too (bad circuit boards, rusting washer tubs, etc.). The problem is that Whirlpool makes so many brands of consumer appliances (and supplies parts to brands/companies they don’t own). Of course, their customer service is horrible.

  • Randy

    I read this post and comments and decided to give it a try. I ordered the relay and capacitor on line. I chose to install only the relay upon completion I plugged the board in and it has been humming away since. FYI while I was waiting for the parts I wired the fan direct and that kept the fridge running fine.

  • Doug M


    You are so very awesome in posting your detailed blog on repairing the Kitchen Aid refrigerator. Just like George, the fan on our KitchenAid Superba KSCS25INWH side-by-side refrigerator/freezer (manufactured 10/04) stopped and the beeping was annoying. I am in a rental home and the owner is currently in Japan. Since I am am a former electronics technician, I thought I would fix the problem myself and save the owner between $300.00 to $800.00 dollars.

    The longest part of the whole repair job was removing the PCB. Once I removed all the screws and connectors and freed up the PCB, replacing the 220uf capacitor was easy. The capacitor tested bad when I removed it. I used the old Multimeter test first charging it in the Ohms position, then switching to DC voltage to look for the drop. Of course the charge was successful in the Ohms position but there was no drop in voltage testing the DC voltage. For my first refrigerator repair, I was completely satisfied and it was very successful. Thanks again and keep up the great posts.

    Doug M

    • That’s great, Doug! That homeowner is very lucky to have you renting the place! 🙂

  • J. Johnson

    Thank You for saving me $2000+ on a new fridge! I won’t retell the same story…you know the ending anyways.

    Again, thank you!!!

  • Do you have any information on the capacitor that CoreCentric Solutions installed? I’m unable to find a capacitor with the values that you stated, through Mouser. As they used a higher quality relay, I’m curious if they adjusted the values of the capacitor to avoid future failures.

    • Hey, Jose. They used a 220uF — same rating the original, but maybe just a different brand?

  • Robert Mc

    Wow, worked like a charm . Thanks

  • Brian

    Hi Steve,

    I have similar KitchenAid refrigerator, but mine also has the same control board.
    I was out of the house for a month, and the fridge broke down in the meantime.
    My issue is that the condenser fan and the compressor are working fine.
    However, it is not cooling, and in about 6-7 hours running, it shuts off automatically.
    I only replaced the bulged capacitor, but I haven’t replaced the relay that you did.
    The compressor is quite hot, and when it stops, I hear some liquid flowing in the refrigerator.
    I guess that is the coolant.
    I also tried to read the diagnostic mode messages, and everything seems fine.
    Would you think of any reason why my fridge is not cooling? or suggest anything to try?

    • How do the condenser coils look?

      • Brian

        It was dusty, but I cleaned up. It did not help, though.

  • IB


    Thank you more than you can understand!!! Fridge went down 2 am yesterday. Everything I had read prior to finding this, was incorrect. Click-click and buzzing seemed to be sending me in the way replacing the piece attached to the compressor. I played with my multi-meter and things were not making sense with that conclusion, then I found your reply. Pulled the board and saw the bulging capacitor. Replaced and just started running perfectly.

    Ok, why I am really so thankful is because I brought the fridge down to my apartment in Rio where no one can service it. Replacing the fridge here would have been a little over US $30k. Even replacing parts takes several Fed Ex shipments and would have left me for quite a bit of time without a fridge. Instead it was resolved with a 30 cent capacitor!! (ok, plus $4 to a guy who asked me to pay any little “cafezinho” for him to solder it on for me).

    I also want to say it was really well written, as I have absolutely no experience with motherboards beyond shoving video cards in them. Which by the way the fact you are a gamer cracks me up, My wife sometimes wants to kill me when I play too much. Before I read your Bio, moments ago, I had already told her you were clearly a bright guy that knew what he was talking about, (She happens to be very appreciative as well, and is the one who suggested I write to say thanks) Now I get to rub the “gamer” in her face!!!
    Well glad life looks good for you, and that you don’t need it, but I’ll send some good Karma your way anyway, you definitely saved me a lot of headache down here in Rio.

    Kindest Regards.

    • That’s fantastic, IB. I appreciate hearing these success stories, and I truly appreciate your compliments. Here’s to many more years with a happy fridge! 🙂

  • IB

    I am certainly keeping your website, in case I don’t. Since I read that, I had a laugh when I saw the Cinema Grand with your name on it. I myself have been through a ton of components and somehow my Carver stays with me. It’s now in the bedroom with a couple of Aerials. I had those same Cinema Tech Mechanized seats and the problem I had with them was they make you want to fall asleep in them. As for red things with horsies, or black ones, or… not even going to go there.
    Once again… Thanks!

  • David


    After 2 months of battling with Whirlpool and finally our refrigerator dying, I came across your blog. We followed your steps exactly. I replaced both the relay and capacitor for about $8.00 total. I found the capacitor at Radio Shack and ordered the relay from Ebay. After about a half hour of connecting things up, soldering, etc.. I switched the once broken refrigerator back on and BOOM, just like new. Thanks for your help. I truly was at my wits end and was not ecstatic about any one of the terrible options provided by Whirlpool.

    • Awesome, David. Good job doing your part to make sure one more Whirlpool repairman goes hungry tonight. 🙂

      • Brad Pope


        It sounds like my KitchenAid has the same problem with the control board as mentioned above. However, the control board is making a chirping sound and the temperature displays are going dim and bright after each chirping sound. Was your control board behaving the same way?



        • Hi, Brad. Mine didn’t, but I’ve heard others complain of this same issue. I believe this fix will address it.

      • David

        Steve, Oddest thing. Looks like the fridge was working perfectly for about 4 days. This evening, the temperature in the freezer began to rise and after the fan turns on, it does not turn off. Is it possible that the relay I installed could have gone bad already? or is there something else I should be looking at. Both the capacitor and the relay were changed 4 days ago.

  • giang nguyen

    Just found out that my condenser fan is not running, I hired a tech that had no idea where the control board is. We thought it was the inverter box, after looking at the repair manual I found where the control panel was. Well after 1/2 an hour, I have the board out. My frig lasted 12 years, same board made by whirlpool. Thank you Steve, now I know more than my tech. I will try to fix the board by replacing the relays and capacitor.

  • IB

    Good Morning Steve,
    Seems that I got a bit ahead of myself with my excitement. Oddest thing is happening. Yesterday I changed only the capacitor and the clicking and buzzing stopped and the refrigerator cooled perfectly. Unfortunately late last night I noticed that the fan and condensor were not turning off. Stranger yet, with the condensor still running the temperature reading in the cabin was showing the correct settings. I will play around more and try to get the relays tested somewhere to rule out one of the problems. I am curious though. It was the one thing I could not understand in your otherwise excellent explanation. When I tried tracing the connector to its relay, on the underside of the motherboard, it seemed the line connected to many other lines and I lost the ability to follow it. If you have a photo of the underside and can draw red lines on it to show how you did this it would be helpful. If not I already really appreciate what you have already done to help.
    Kindest Regards,

  • IB

    oops.. i meant compressor and not condensor.. I need less time with refrigerator and more sleep!

  • IB

    The only other piece of information I can think of is: If the refrigerator is plugged in when the cabin is already below the set temperature the compressor and fan will not immediately run. When the cabin warms above the settings. IT DOES turn on, so it is only turning off that seems to be a problem? Would a relay work one way but not the other? Otherwise maybe I need to start looking at if it is a problem with something related to the thermometer, not even sending a message to the control board.
    Troubleshooting from Rio is really a treat. And again, thanks!

    • Hi, IB. First, keep in mind there is often a seven minute delay after powering on the fridge, so don’t worry if it doesn’t run within that first seven minutes. Second, yes… a relay can indeed get “stuck” in either the open or closed position. I’ve updated the article with a photo of the five solder points outlined in red for the relay that needs to be replaced. Hopefully that will help you locate it better. Let us know how it turns out! 🙂

      • IB

        I read about relays and then really assumed that was also the problem, I even ordered two from your link, but then I read what the invertor does and a peace and calm set in.
        I really just assumed the compressor went on and off on all refrigerators. Once I understood otherwise, all my concerns disappeared and I knew it was functioning properly after only the simple capacitor change.
        I remain shocked at the fact some people probably throw these refrigerators out based on a $1 piece going bad. I could only think about had this been my parents. I am also amazed a company would betray its consumer like this in the US. That has to be almost 500 models you listed, I have no idea how many of each model gets sold on average but that has to be an unbelievable amount of refrigerators for which a control panel can not be purchased.
        Well most importantly, once again, thanks, as there is absolutely no way I could have done it without having read this.

        • 🙂

          • SKO

            Hi Steve, We have had the same initial trouble with our side by side kitchen aid with the freezer not freezing and very hot panel between the fridge and freezer. We have had the panel replaced and now the refrigerator is not cooling. It is up to 60 degrees when it should be at 37. Do you know by chance what the problem is? I really don’t want another big expense!!! UGH!! Thank you!!!

          • Hi, SKO. When you say the “panel” was replaced, do you mean the actual panel between the fridge and freezer compartments? Unfortunately, that probably won’t solve the problem… since that’s just plumbing stuff. Or did you mean you replaced the control board?

        • Lou Pernia

          Steve, thank you so much for the research the generosity of your time, effort and shared experience. have mine going with the fan “hotwired” am afraid to take the motherboard out and repair as everything is running beautifully with the fan on continuous and do not have another motherboard as back up if my repair fails …… in an all or nothing situation and cannot afford another.
          Am disgusted in the way Whilrpool/Kenmore and Kitchenaid have treated their customers is a class action lawsuit something to be considered; would be more than happy to join in!!; the cost of a new motherboard is now around 1600$.

          • Hey, Lou. Order both new parts and have them on hand. If you have a friend who is handy with a soldering iron, bring them over. You’ll be able to yank the board, swap out the capacitor and relay, and put it back in before any of the food in your freezer starts to thaw. 🙂 You can seriously do it in probably 20 minutes. You CAN do it. 🙂

      • Greg

        Hi Steve –

        I’m ready to take on KitchenAid to fix my $6000 fridge for $50, thanks to your help! One question — your picture showing the solder points for the relay didn’t have any red highlights for me. I tried a couple of different browsers, but no dice. Any chance you can send me the picture showing the relay points.

        Thank you so much for your help posting this. You are a lifesaver.


        • Hi, Greg. The little red circles in the graphic are kinda thin — look in the top right section of the photo. You can see where the solder points are “burnt” a bit.

  • Steve, you have saved the day in Cave Creek Arizona! I too experienced the same problem with the fan turning on and off constantly on my Kitchenaid side by side. . I have a home warranty and they sent out a technician who quickly troubleshot the problem to the control board. He then gave me the bad news stating that I was out of luck and that there was no fix for me cause the manufacturer was not making that part anymore. I just could not believe what he was telling me, so I googled it. Sure enough, he was right and luckily, I found your site, which is epic! Lot’s of other interesting items, which I will take the time to read later. Got the parts expedited to me so it cost me $18 and change, but still 1000% cheaper than buying a new fridge. Oh, and because the home warranty company couldn’t fix it, they sent me a buy out of $400. So, I guess I’m ahead for now, thanks to you! I replaced the relay and capacitor. My soldering days were quite rusty, so I fought the de-soldering part a bit, but turned out to be fun.

    • NICE! I love these success stories, but yours is now one of my favorites because you ended up $400 ahead! Well, $382 ahead if you subtract the $18. 😉 GREAT JOB!

  • David

    Steve, I replaced the capacitor and relay on the board. The fridge worked for about 4 days and then the temperature started to get warmer in both compartments. I called a repair guy as I was at a loss (shame on me). He said the part on the mother board that sends the freezer into a defrost cycle was likely bad. Any idea which part on the mother board controls the defrost cycle? I might have to break down and send this core centric, ugh!

    • Hi, David. I wish I did know… but I don’t. I only stumbled upon THIS fix with trial and error, and by closely examining the before and after photos when I sent the board to CoreCentric. Unfortunately, it sounds like that might be the cheapest fix for you, too. But if you decide go that route, please take many close-up before and after pictures of both sides of the board, and then I’ll update this post to address that fix, too! 🙂

  • Teri

    Success! Thank you so much for posting this fix! Bought the solder vacuum from Radio Shack ($10) and it worked like a charm. Read that if you heat up the pin a few seconds, add some new solder first, then press the plunger, it clears out the old solder easier. Had my husband suck it up after solder was liquid. The most time consuming part was getting to and removing the control board. Ours is located on the top. Fridge/Freezer is back to 37/0 degrees AND NO BEEPING! Thanks again!

  • Cary

    I have a Kitchenaid built in and it had the same board you documented. I could hear the relay cycling every few seconds while it ran (with a faint beep). This was after noticing some random times that it had stopped cooling properly. The capacitor replacement stopped the cycling and now the evaporator fan runs correctly. Thanks for posting the information.

  • Mark

    Steve, thank you! I have the exact same problem and this post is awesome. Question for you, I can’t tell if the capacitor is busted on mine, can you tell? Here’s a photo: Also, is there any way to test the relay or is it just better to replace it?

    • I can’t tell from that photo, and while there are ways to test relays (you have to provide the proper power to it and then check continuity on each of the “downstream” contacts), I’d just go ahead and replace both. Based on the feedback from others on this post, that’s almost guaranteed to fix your problem. That relay and capacitor really are the weak link.

      • Mark

        Thanks Steve. I had a friend check the capacitor and he told me it looked fine so we replaced the relay and my fridge now works!!! This is the first time I have ever done anything like this and it saved me from having to buy a brand new fridge! Thanks so much, if you are ever in Orange County CA hit me up for a free lunch….I owe you that at least.

  • UTR

    Worked perfectly. Thanks so much for posting this!

  • Jeff

    Thank you for posting this excellent and well detailed fix! I’m about to jump into my Kitchenaid Architect fridge and see if this is the problem. Great work! Your $121 dollars paid off in my opinion!

  • gina

    Hi Steve
    thanks so much for your detailed troubleshooting and solutions. So generous of you to take the time to help others…
    Im ready to embark on replacements of my board and found a local shop that will do the soldering for me (way above my tech level) at $90 hour and 1 day turn around its better than 10 days without my fridge with corecentric!
    so my question is to anyone…should I order 4 new relays and have them all replaced? and which relay goes to what?
    thanks for your advice.

    • Hi, Gina. $90 an hour seems pretty steep. If there’s someone handy in your neighborhood, I bet you could trade them a few cold beverages in return for the soldering. It’s literally 10-15 minutes of work to swap out the capacitor and relay. If you DO decide to go that route, find out what their minimum charge is and make sure you don’t pay more than that. If they disagree that it’s more than 15 minutes of work, invite them to visit this blog post and explain in a comment below why a professional electronics technician can’t do 7 solder connections (two on the capacitor, five on the relay) in 15 minutes. See if you can find a shop that will maybe charge you for half an hour. That’s plenty of time to do the fix — including a bathroom break, testing all the connections with a multi-meter, and perhaps even a brisk walk around the block. Seriously.

      Also, I doubt it’s worth replacing all four relays. It seems that the relay most likely to fail is the one that runs the condenser fan. I have yet to receive a comment on this thread reporting anything but 100% success after replacing the capacitor and that one relay (knock on wood). Also, those are the only two pieces CoreCentric replaces, and they offer a 1 year warranty on the repair… so that confirms to me that those two pieces are the “trouble children” of this board.

      Please let me know how it goes!

      • gina

        I agree I suspected it wasn’t more than 15 minutes too. I’ll ask them for min. He did say that he will test the board before he begins…do you think I should forgo that?
        I bought 2 relays just in case and will pick up capacitors at RS, any use in changing out the other capacitors too?
        might go to craigslist and ask for a handy person. I’m sure there are 100s out there.

        also I had a tech on the appliance blog post that he thought it might be the inverter going bad..
        “The noise you hear sounds like the high frequency noise the inverter starts making as it gets older. It could also be the cause of the compressor running constantly:
        VCC Compressors Erratic High Frequency Noise Highest Compressor Speed.pdf”

        but my gut says no…
        here’s his instructions on how to check it…

        “NOTE: If the compressor does not operate perform the following steps.

        Connect power to the refrigerator and allow it to enter the “cooling” mode.

        While the refrigerator is in the cooling mode, the inverter and main control board voltages should be 3 to 6 VDC between the red wire and the white wire at the inverter and 120 VAC between the black wire and the white wire.

        If the 3 to 6 volts DC is not present at the inverter red/white and red wires, check P7-3 and P7-8 on the main control board for 3 to 6 volts DC. If the voltage is not present, replace the main control board.

        If the 3 to 6 volts DC is present at the main control board, unplug the refrigerator or disconnect the power.

        Disconnect the wire connector going from the inverter to the compressor. Set the ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale.

        Touch the meter leads to any two compressor pins. The meter should indicate approximately 9 to 10 Ω. Check between each set of pins to test all three windings.

        Set the ohmmeter to the highest scale. Touch one meter lead to the cabinet ground and the other lead to each of the three compressor terminals. The meter should indicate an open circuit (infinite). Any other reading indicates a shorted compressor.”

        • While it can’t hurt to have him test the board, I also had an electronics shop “test my board” and find “nothing wrong with it” before I sent it to CoreCentric. So I’d say save your time and money and replace only the two components that CoreCentric does: that single capacitor and that single relay.

          Inverter? Possible, but based on all the empirical evidence, I really doubt it. Like I said, every single person who has changed those two elements and reported back here has had success. Could you be the first failure? Possibly… but you’d be breaking a pretty good win streak. 🙂

          I think your CraigsList idea is a good one. If you’re a single woman who lives alone, of course don’t let him come to your house. Take a friend with you for safety (I love CraigsList, but I’m always careful), and see if you can pay someone $30-$50 for the quick fix… especially if you’re providing the parts. You’ll have your fridge running again in a matter of hours. 🙂

          • gina

            great thanks for the advice and confidence in solving it.. i’ll report back.
            does anyone want a recording of the sounds? i can upload and get link

          • Lawrence Bardfeld

            Great, wise advice, Steve!

  • like2short

    My fridge was doing the “blick click” cha cha for a few months, with the Freezer Cold and the Fridge part running on the warm side. Over the weekend, the touchpad inside the fridge stopped turning on, but will beep and flash when I press on/off, but won’t stay on.. I replaced C32 which had a bulge and I still have the same problem. I am having digikey send me some relays and I hope that solves my problem.



    • Jeff

      Well..I forgot to plug in P5…plugged that in and now the touchpad works again, but fan does not come on! Hopefully the relays I’m getting today will fix the issue. So I think I had both components fail. First I had the fan running intermittently the sound of the relay clicking, eventually the C32 failed which caused the touchpad /control panel in the fridge to go out.

      • like2short (aka Jeff)


        Ok….so I put a new relay and NO DICE……so then I changed ALL the relays and NO DICE….The problem ended up being that FRIDGE was in DEMO MODE!!! In Demo mode, diags don’t work, nothing works! It’s a bit of an “easter egg” to get it going again.

        From Kitchen Aid
        Shut off the Max Cool feature if it is on.
        1.Press and hold “MAX COOL” and “Cooling On/Off” keys simultaneously until the User Interface beeps.
        2. Turn on “Max Cool”.
        3. Return to normal cooling mode, press and hold “Max Cool” and “Cooling On/Off” keys simultaneously
        until the UI beeps (about 3 seconds).

        It was like an act of God when everything came back on!

        Now I figured out what happened.

        1. C32 Capacitor was failing, doing the click click cha and then finally gave up.
        2. I somehow put the fridge in demo mode when I was trying to put the fridge in max cool mode in attempt to cool it down.
        3. Display went out in the Fridge and went dead because of bad c32 and demo mode.
        4. New C32 made the Display come back on again, but unit was still stuck in demo mode.
        5. Replaced Relay, still did not work….Tech said relay taken out was actually good.
        6. Diags did not work. In desperation I replaced the 4 other relays (not necessary) and it myself….
        6a. I got a Radio shack
        this thing makes desoldering EASY! I should have gotten this in the first place!
        7. It still did not work.
        8. Finally tried the turn off demo mode…and it came back on! the directions are from Kitchen Aid are a bit confusing!

        So really I just need c32 and needed to RTFM (read the fine manual) a little better to turn demo mode off!

        Thanks Steve! I appreciate your blog and you sharing this information! Have a great weekend!

        • Hey, Jeff! Wow. You had me worried there for a bit… I thought you were going to ruin our repair winning streak! Great to know your capacitor fix worked, and that it was just some minor user error temporarily keeping you from enjoying it. Thanks for posting those demo mode instructions. I think I’ll include those at the bottom of the article in case they can help someone else.

  • like2short (aka Jeff)

    one more thing: I bought my relays from digikey. $3.25 each plus $7.99 for priority mail shipping (2day), they have cheaper and more $$ shipping options based on how fast you need it. I suggest buying spares. the control board has 5 and I think the other control board has like 4. Plus have some 200uf 35V capacitors as spares too…this way if it fails again, you can get it up and running w/o having to wait for a few days.

  • Gabriel

    Thanks Steve…You saved my marriage!!!…After a month with no solutions at all from KITCHENAID, I found your blog. My brother is a electronic engineer who owned a specialized repair shop for control boards, so I shared your blog with him..After review it, he understood it was 100% the same problem we have on ours. He ordered just one relay from ( for around $10, including shipping. I went to my nearest radio shack to get the capacitor ($1.49)….We placed everything in place and BINGO!!!! My fridge is back to life!!!!!
    Great job Steve!!!

  • gina

    Steve geting ready to remove my board, but I have no idea how those 5 plastic clips come out. Mine is harder to get to since it is mounted on top of fridge and set back into a tight metal surround.
    please explain an easy way of popping them out with out breaking the board. I looked at your picts and was surprised to see the pins still attached, it seems those pointed ends with the tab would somehow be pushed through and thats how you remove it.

    • Hi, Gina. Those plastic clips hold in the metal housing on my fridge, but yours might be slightly different. It’s easiest to remove the housing first, then try to release those clips.

      To release them, use needle-nose pliers to squeeze the the “teeth” inward on the clip, so the board can slide up (or the clip can slide down). Be careful to not scratch the board.

      • gina

        OOOH no so they release from the back? there is no way I can get to the back. the housing is integrated on top of the fridge. Unless someone else sees a way to get it out.
        KBFo42FTX02 (a built in fridge with compressor on top) maybe there is a repair manual out there I can see how to remove it? I can send pict but don’t know how.

        • It depends on what you call “the back” of the board. They release from what I’d call the top, which is the side of the board where all the electronic components are visible. They’re designed for (ahem) “professional” repair guys to remove them, so I’m certain there’s a relatively straightforward way to do it. 🙂

    • Teri

      Gina, mine was the same as yours. It takes some patience for sure, a step ladder, a bright flash light and the right tools to remove the Set screws holding the metal housing down. I was able to squeeze the plastic clips with my fingernails while pressing down on the board and got them all to release. Good luck.

    • gina

      Follow up on my repair, It’s fixed!!
      Steve, if you lived closer I’d buy you some nice beer : )

      I got that board out finally (I never could get to the back of it, too tight not enough room to remove the screws)
      geeky friend soldered the capacitor (yup bulging) and the relay, which had a very prominent rattling sound in it (might want to add that to your notes).
      Waited the 7 min restart period (longest 7 min ever) and ta da… the patient survived the surgery.
      I want to note, that in my research, I found that Sears sells reconditioned boards for $150! The only catch is you need to pay the $75 house call and ONLY the tech can order the part for you. Still maybe not a bad option for the non-DIY. (might add that to your notes too)
      Thank you again for your support, it will come back to you 10x.

      • gina

        Hate to keep filling up the comments section I wanted to share 2 things with you

        1. Ever since I repaired my board, by icemaker started leaking into the bin! I just briefly read somewhere when another person had the same issue. What could have gone wrong in my repair? (the fridge was only off or about 1.5 hours, and I did set it to max cool for 2 hours before I started) wondering if there is some clog somewhere? Can’t be coincidence that the icemakers breaks right after the board.

        2. I posted your awesome solution on and apparently they don’t like to be upstaged and removed all my solutions that linked to your posts! So instead I have quickly posted solutions to 5 questions before they decide to take them down again, obviously those guys only want to sell you parts!

        • Hey, Gina. Don’t worry about filling the comments. That’s why they’re here! 🙂

          That’s strange about the ice maker. I haven’t had that issue, but hopefully someone else reading this has, and they can chime in with an idea.

          And I think that’s funny that they removed the low cost solution. The professionals don’t tend to like DIY folks that much. 🙂

  • John

    I am experiencing a similar problem, but the intermittent power problem is the the electronic control board in the refrigerator (electronic board where temperatures are set). Do you know how I can determine which and relay controls the power to that board? Wish I would have found your blog earlier…already in the hole for $250 in multiple service calls and I have not even sent the board in yet.

    • Hi, John. I haven’t had that issue, so I won’t be much help solving it. However, if you can get the board out and send it to CoreCentric, there’s a good chance they can fix whatever it is. If you go that route, take before and after photos of both sides of the board and share them with me — then maybe we can figure out what components will fix your issue, too! 🙂

    • Larry

      I just fixed my built-in over the weekend. The display board was blinking and I was about to replace the display board until I saw Steve’s post. I went ahead anyway to replace C32 capacitor and everything works fine. I didn’t even replace the relay yet. Steve’s post certainly help me saved time and money. Thank you so much!

    • Steve

      John, the problem is the control broad that Steve has shown how to fix. It’s all connected.

  • Eric

    Just wanted to say thanks for this information. Our fridge was having the same problem with the condenser fan and the repairman was no help. Found your post and replaced both the capacitor and relay myself. Fridge is working fine now. Next time we will skip calling the repairman!

  • Hi Steve so my board went bad on fridge its a hotpoint & its model #hss25gfpdww with board #wr55x10942 what happened is the fuse blew & after I reset breaker fridge wouldn’t run. The light came on but nothing else. I goofed around checking things & came up with nothing so I decided to try swapping the board with a similar board off another fridge & fridge started up. But the board I used does not have ground wire on it & I’m guessing I should use the correct board. But after inspecting the old board I can’t see any obvious signs of failure? Is there a way I can test this to repair the board. The board reconditioning place is like only 20 minutes from my house & wondering if I should try contacting them. With the old board compressor or fan wouldn’t run & ice maker or ice/water dispenser wouldn’t work either? Thanks in advance & have a blessed day my friend.

    • Corecentric is in Glendale heights IL which is like 20 min from my house I meant to say. Thanks.

    • Hi, Ron. I think your best bet is to probably call up CoreCentric. All the stuff I know about my fridge is self-taught, and I’d be totally guessing at any advice I’d give. A local electronics shop might be able to test it for you, but as you can see from my article… they don’t always fix the problem. CoreCentric is who rebuilds the boards for the big boys, and I think it might be your cheapest way out… unless you can find an identical replacement board for cheaper. 🙂

  • Dan Midtdal

    Thank you for posting this comprehensive description of the fix. Well done! My fridge would go 12 hours at most before the condenser fan stopped. The relay was hot to the touch.
    After being faced with dead ends for finding the relay, (min $100 order to ship to Canada),
    I took a long shot and having felt how hot the relay became at failure, I thought it may be a heat dissipation issue. I proceeded to drill 4 3\8″ holes in the sheet metal box, 2 on the front end and 2 on the bottom to provide more ventilation. So far, 48 hours later there are no overheating shut downs. Prices for the board range from $160 $900 Can.

  • Suzie

    Wow! This post saved us probably close to $600 bucks and we were able to fix our fridge for under $50!
    For a few weeks the fridge was clicking and chirping and progressively getting worse so it would go on and off, chirp, on off, chirp and so on. The freezer was cold, but the fridge was warmish, but overall seemed to be working ok besides the fact that is sounded like it was going to stop at any moment.
    After reading your info above and my husband calling the repair guy – the story about the control board was the same, not being made any more, factory damaged in tsunami. The repair guy quoted us $450 to take the board and re do it and two weeks of time to get it back. Then if we did not want to live out of a cooler, we would probably want to buy a temp fridge. So we decided with your detailed guide we would try it our selves. Took the cover off and the capacitor was bulging just like your photo so we were pretty certain of what to fix. I could not believe I was happy about the bulging capacitor! Found the capacitor at Radio Shack along with a small soldering tool. Decided to buy the relay too just in case, but had to order that on line. Mouser had them for less than $3 so we 2nd day aired two of them just to have a spare. The hardest part of the whole thing was removing the board – clips were hard to remove and getting it back in was tricky, but ultimately we turned the switch on and IT WORKED!
    Thank you so much for the great article/photos and advise. Now can you help us fix our LCD display on the microwave? I can do that while my husband goes out and kills some moles! Seriously – the LCD display has most of the number bars burned out and only a few remain on so it cannot be read. Everything else works perfectly. Thanks again!

    • Hi, Suzie. Congrats on a successful fix! Concerning the LCD display, I’ve actually had that same problem on a Jenn-Air stovetop. The LCD display was integrated with the control board, so I ended up just buying a new one online and replacing it.

      Probably your best bet with the microwave, too. Look up the model number, search online for the part, and then buy the cheapest one. 🙂

  • dave

    Jenn-air JS48PPDUDB00 and Board W10219462. Purchased frig in 2008 for $7500. Random clicking at the board and annoying alarm. Freezer temperature frequently goes to -10F when setting is 0F. Determined it was a board problem but no boards available except on eBay for >$1K or, alternatively, you can send the board out for repair and wait without a refrigerator to use. Following up on this blog, I purchased more robust relays and capacitors from Digikey (Z225-ND (5), P5867-ND (2), and 493-1578-ND (1)). Replaced all five relays and three capacitors on the board. Reinstalled. No more clicking or alarms. Frig and freezer work perfectly. Whirlpool should be ashamed to leave customers in this situation, especially given the cost of these refrigerators.

    Interesting info on original relay—see page 6 of this document that suggests the original relays were not installed in the right orientation, if I am reading the document correctly:

    • Dan Midtdal

      After a week, the 4- 3/8 holes I drilled in the sheet metal housing for the circuit board, are still doing their job. The fridge has not shut down once since. Before I drilled the holes, the fridge was shutting down 2 times per day.

      • That’s great to hear, Dan. Looks like heat is one of the contributing factors to the failure, at least in your case. Where in your fridge is your board located? You can see from the photos where mine is (lower bottom, as you face the rear of the unit), and heat down there isn’t a big factor, so I suspect a power issue (lots of thunderstorms at certain times of the year in Utah). If I were you, I’d be tempted to go to “geek overkill” level level and wire up a 120V brushless fan (same ones used in PCs) to blow air on the board 24/7. 🙂

        • Dan Midtdal

          Well, now after a week the fridge is acting up again. The holes drilled in the box evidently are not enough. The box is located as you state in the lower left corner tucked up inside where it is a bit of a dead zone for air circulation. I am thinking of dropping it down and laying it flat, as was mentioned, there is an issue of operating the relays with the legs parallel to the ground (earth).
          As I am Canada, I cannot find the relays anywhere. My electronics store does not sell them. With a life cycle of 50,000 cycles it is probably worn out anyways. I will try the fan idea as well, I need to get through the next couple of weeks anyways. thanks for your support.

          • Bummer. You’re not able to mail order any of the relays? Are there any electronics stores or repair shops near you? Maybe they could sell you one.

          • Ian

            Hi guys…..I live in Canada and you can get all the parts quoted in this blog at B&E Electronics. Great service and they will custom order for you….and even help with education where required. I highly recommend them.

  • Chung

    Hi Steve. Incredible info that was really helpful. I did everything that you did on my board and reinstalled everything. Now it looks like I’m running into an issue where the the fridge is running all the time. I can’t recall if that’s how it always was, but thought I would ask you. I thought maybe it was in demo mode, but everything is refrigerated and running at the right temps. Any idea what it might be? It’s been going on for over a week now.


    • Hi, Chung. If it’s running all the time, are the temps getting too cold?

      • Chung

        The temp is staying at what it should be. It just sounds like the fan is constantly running, but every once in a while the compressor will kick in.

        • That could be caused by relay being “stuck” in the on position. I’d try replacing that replay again.

    • Niles

      Hi Chung, did re-installing the relay solve your problem?

  • Vark Kalluri

    I have KItchenaid KSCS25IN5500 refrigerator. From the Whirlpool site from the parts list the part number is 230728. I opened the control part and it looks complete different than what you have. It is a EECON VCC31158 08 with more numbers like 219320026 and 1020320EL1. If I type into sears parts direct 230728 it gives me the part which I was told compatible with my refrigerator. However the pins are not same. I do not know how to put the picture of my board here. If you could send me your email I could send that picture to you.

  • Andy

    Just wanted to drop a quick line of thanks … I encountered this post by a search for “2307028 failure”, and immediately absorbed this entire thread … After having ordered the refurbished board from Sears Parts Direct website (where they DO NOT tell you it is a refurbished part), I found your website, ran to the local Radio Shack, and already have a repaired refrigerator! We were experiencing the same “clicks and chirps” as another post — of course those being extreme short-cycling and audio resonance on the control board with the failed capacitor … All I have left to do now is cancel the Sears Direct order and order a couple of Omron relays — just in case … Awesome post, and completely agree that it is completely irresponsible for Whirlpool to disregard customer frustrations with these high-end refrigerator control failures.

    • Hi Andy – I have the I have KItchenaid KSCS25IN with the 2307028 board. I have not removed it yet, but we are experiencing the constant clicking whereby it sounds like the compressor and fan are cycling on and off. We also went through a few days where it wouldn’t keep temperature and the ice-maker was having a hard time keeping up with daily demands of a family of 5. My assumption was the two were related, so I cleaned off the very dirty coils with a vacuum cleaner and a compressor. But the clicking and cycling did not stop despite the unit maintaining temperature.

      It sounds like you had the same problem and that you were able to solve the problem just by replacing the capacitor. Is that right?

      I will go ahead and order (or locally source) some capacitors in prep for surgery. Sounds like I probably also need to order the relays just in case since they appear to be the next weakest link… Chris

      • Andy

        Chris … All your comments and questions are spot-on … I had also cleaned the compressor heat exchanger coils at first in hope that it was just a thermal issue, and also “hotwired” the compressor cooling fan to run continuously, but to no avail. In our case, the short cycling at first was a nuisance, but over a few days it got worse, the “chirping” started (audible resonance from the failing control circuit that needs that capacitor), and at the end our refrigerator section could not maintain temperature … It has now been over a week with just the C32 capacitor replacement (the original did indeed have the tell-tale bulging appearance), and everything remains great — quiet, normal operation … However, I am concerned with the number of cycles experienced by the relays during the several days of short-cycling when the capacitor had failed, and will order a couple of spare relays this weekend … I hope this helps you and your family as well … God Bless.

  • Antoni

    Thank you very much Steve. I had similar problem with KitchenAid fridge model KSCS23INss00. Evaporator fan did not work and it was double short beeps error and blinking light in freezer. Evaporator fan did not work because 12VDC voltage comming from electronic board was fuctuating betveen 7 and 11V. I bought in Sayal Electronics 9because I am in Mississauga, Canada ) 2 capacitors 220uF/50V for $1.30 +tax and one of them I use for replacement on board. Also light inside freezer and fridge did not work. I find that it was no neutral wire connection was comming from board to bulbs because of fellure of one relay 12V on board. I did not replace it only solder jumper on its contacts. Now fridge working Ok. also lights inside. Thank again.

  • Vark kalluri

    Steve my control board looks like this The part that is available on the sears site looks like this They say it is compatible with my board. Is there a conversion kit that comes to convert it connectors. Obviously I am not able to see where to connect my cables on this new board.

  • Dan W

    Steve, just wanted to say thanks for posting this repair procedure. After figuring out that the intermittent, faint beeping sound was coming from the fridge (and not inside my head), moved most of the contents over the weekend to the 22 year old GE Profile in the garage (which, btw, has never had a problem). Had the appliance repair guy out this morning to look at my $5200, 6-1/2 year old KitchenAid built-in. Same diagnosis – ‘fried’ control board, no replacement part available, tsunami, blah blah. Would need to remove it, ship it off, wait two weeks while it was ‘refurbished’. Would also need to replace the evaporator fan motor which supposedly caused the problem with the board. About $700. Ouch. While he was writing up an official estimate, I found your website. Told him never mind and paid him for the $80 service call for the diagnosis and sent him on his way. Quick trip to Radio Shack. 1 capacitor: $1.49. 1 hour later and fridge is humming along nicely. Thanks again.

    • Great job, Dan! Glad the prospect of a $700 heartburn was enough to bring you here. 🙂 Congrats on a successful fix.

  • Tom Charbonneau

    Steve, thanks for posting this. I have the built-in version, so the control board is on top. I got the capacitor at Radio Shack, soldered it in and I’m back in business again. I did not need to change the relay. Your article is very well written and illustrated.

  • Keith Bloom

    This kind of post was exactly what I was hoping to find. I have replaced bad caps an IC chips in computer power supplies and plasma televisions saving hundreds of dollars. I was really put off by the idea that a controller board had to be shipped to someone for repair, when I have tackled far more complex jobs on my workbench. Kudos for the writeup, I am spec’ing caps and relays on a mouser order right after I send this.

    • Brendan

      Core Centric inspected/tested my board and tell me the Microprocessor is bad and they cant get replacments. The processor # is MC68HC705B16N made by motorola. Any idea where I can get a replacement on line and change it out ? I see one at ebay (china) $25 but prefer a US source.

  • Huang

    Steve, I have the same exact model fridge as your ours. However, my just went completely dead. No fan, no compressor running but everything light, water/ice dispenser seems to be working fine. I replaced the capacitor and turn it back on. Still no running. I will buying the relay soon but was wondering if you or others might have other troubleshoot tips… Thanks!

    • Huang

      I paid a service tech $80.00 to diagnose my fridge. It turns out the controller box is bad and power is not going up to the display control where you turn it on/off, set temps, and modes. This tech wants $375.00 for a controller and $150 labor to repair it. He has no controller boards in stock so I have to wait 2-3 weeks. Anyway, I am thinking about using action maytag in CA for $100.00 to rebuild my controller board. Any inputs are appreciated.

      • Hmm… not sure how much more input I can give you, my friend! Try the fix explained in this article first, and then use CoreCentric (who guarantees their work) if that doesn’t fix it. 🙂

  • Rise

    Thanks! I used all your info here to replace the capacitor and now the fridge is purring as normal.

  • robin

    I seem to have the same problem. My 7 year old fridge model #KSCS25TMKO2 has been going on and off for a few days. Repair guy wanted 800 bucks! We paid 1400 for it. (we live in Los Angeles everything cost more here)The guy wanted to take the part and have it rebuilt and put back in to my fridge. UGHHH. I am not as mechanical as all of you guys. I don’t own a soldering tool. My husband is worse then me with fixing stuff. Got any suggestions? :(….

    Btw Steve I agree with you: ” I’m very disappointed in Whirlpool Corp’s lack of customer service with this issue, particularly since this one control board affects so many of their products.”

    • Sorry to hear that, Robin. I’d recommend printing out this article and then taking the board (you can leave it in the metal tray if you want) to a local electronics repair shop. They can follow the instructions here and fix it in an afternoon. That’s probably the fastest solution.

  • Kathleen

    On 9-15-14 I made a repair appointment with Sears Home Repair for My whirlpool Gold refrigerator purchased from Sears in 2007. On 9-18-14 the sears technician evaluated the refrigerator and determined the problem to be a “baffle.” I then paid 357.93 of a 462.66 estimate.
    The technician returned on 9-24-14 and determined that he ordered the wrong part, the “baffle” was not in need of repair; he then determined that two electronic control boards needed to be replaced. The new estimate was 581.89 of which I paid an additional 149.93. He ordered two electronic control boards for the refrigerator and took the “baffle” with him when he left.
    During the following week the refrigerator stopped working to the point that I lost hundreds of dollars in food. I spoke with customer satisfaction at Sears and was informed that my next appointment was scheduled for 10-6-14; I was given a simple apology and told that the parts were on their way.
    On 10-5-14 I received an automated call from sears confirming my appointment on 10-6-14. I called Sears to advise them that I had not received any parts for the service call. I was put on hold several times and then finally informed that they could not determine the delivery date of my parts and someone would return my call with more information. I never received that call.
    So on 10-6-14 I again called Sears’s customer satisfaction and was informed that Sears could not repair my refrigerator and the main control board is no longer available. I was told that there was nothing Sears could do for me, when I return the part I received, a refund would be issued.
    This was a problem because I never received any parts; despite paying Sears. UPS has no signature verifying delivery and I have no refund of over $507.86. I am now disputing the charges through my credit card company…
    That same evening I began to Google my refrigerator problem, refusing to believe that my $3000.00 7/8 year old refrigerator was just garbage. I found your article Steve and said why not try. I have never soldered anything in my life, but I do work on computers as a hobby.
    So I ordered the relays (precisely the parts you specified!) from the sights suggested; went to radio shack and bought a soldering kit and then spent the last week awaiting the arrival of my relays, watching YouTube tutorials on soldering and practicing on old computer boards.
    Steve, I studied and followed your instructions and guess what, when I plugged in my refrigerator tonight… it started right up fan and all…!!!

    • Hi, Kathleen. Wow. That is awesome. I’m sorry about the $500+ charges and hope that your credit card company comes through for you. But congratulations on a successful fix — especially if this was the first thing in your life you’ve ever soldered. Very cool!

  • Tony

    Steve, a question about relays. If I can’t find aa exact relay, can I go up or down in either voltage or current? Do you know? Thank you!

    • Hi, Tony. You need the same voltage, since the relay is “actuated” when it received the voltage it’s expecting. I don’t see any problem with going with one that will accept a higher amperage, but just make sure it will trigger properly with the voltage and amperage it’s going to get from the board.

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  • Charles

    Thank you for this article from my neighbor. Her refrigerator had exactly the same symptoms and the relay fixed it. Mouser part number is 653-G5Q-14-DC12 and they have a few thousand of them in stock for $2.65 each quantity 1 ( shipping 2 day priority is $7 from TX ).

  • Victor

    Hi Steve I have a superba Ihat’s beepeing, freezer is ok but refrigerator is not.

    I unplgged t and let it unplugged for a couple of days and plugged back today and now it seems to be working, i checked before thebaffle and it is not stuck, checked the fan on the back and it works… I did cleaned the coils under the fridge which were dirtier than the one you posted.

    Was you refrigerator beeping… If it’s beeping I can go directly to the board and check

    • Mine wasn’t beeping, but others report that theirs was, and that this fix addressed it.

  • BAJ

    Steve, what a great step by step post. My 7 year old Kitchenaid was experiencing the same issue; tried ordering board from Sears as it said it was available. Turns out, they cancelled the order and said it is no longer available but there is a substitute that’s available but requires technician installation. I had nothing to lose but a few bucks – got all the parts in and the desoldering tool made this job a snap. Took about 45 mins to remove part from frig, replace the 2 components and put it all together. Everything is working like a charm. Sad Sears/Whirlpool forces consumers to use “qualified” people – just their usual $$$ grabbing scam. Thanks for taking the time to help consumers take charge. Have a blessed day.

    • Great to hear, Baj. Congrats on a successful fix!

  • Eric sheffels

    I’m a hero in my house (at least in my own eyes…). My wife found your blog while searching the internet for the control board part number. She had two separate repairmen tell her that the board had to be sent out and repaired. Total cost for board replacement, take out and reinstall was estimated at $600. I ordered two of the suggested relays from digikey. Arrived today. Already had the board out. Took ten minutes to remove the old relay and two minutes to put in the new one. Another ten minutes to put it all back together. Now running great. Poured myself a double… Figured I deserved it. Thanks for all of the information. Was a lifesaver.

    • Awesome news, Eric. You ARE a hero! 🙂

      • Eric Sheffels

        Post script… refrigerator ran for about 24 hours, then the condenser fan shut down again. Hadn’t originally replace the capacitor, so I went to radio shack and bought one. pulled out the board and replaced capacitor. Condenser fan immediately ran. Now been running for a week. Looks like I needed to replace both the relay and the capacitor…

        • Good to hear, Eric! My advice is always to replace both those parts at the same time and just be done with it. The hard part of the procedure is unplugging and removing everything before doing the soldering, so may as well just do them both while the fridge is offline. 🙂 That capacitor is the #1 weak spot on this control board. The relay is #2. And glad you’re still a hero at your house. 🙂

  • Krishna

    Hi Steve,
    I came accross this post while looking for the possible repair for my Kitchenaid kscs25inss00 refrigerator. Last week my wife noticed strange intermittent churning noise and hot mullion strip. The technician diagnosed that both condenser and evaporator fans were malfunctioning and the culprit was the control board and needs to be sent to CCS for repair. After reading all the success stories here I am encouraged to tackle it my self. Now your refrigerator was having only condenser fan problem. My question: will the solution you mentioned cure both the fans problem or the evaporator fan has separate capacitor?

  • Krishna

    Hi Steve,
    I came across this post while searching for possible fix for my Kitchenaid refrigerator kscs25inss00. Last week my wife noticed strange ‘intermittent churning’ noise and the hot mullion strip. The technician diagnosed that both condensor and evaporator fans were not working due to malfunctioning control board and needs to be sent to CCS for repair ($700). After reading the success stories here I am getting encouraged to tackle it myself. My question: will your solution fix both fans or the evaporator fan is controlled by different capacitor?

    • I think that one single capacitor on the board controls a few different things, but a different fan will use a different relay. I’d try seeing if you can locate where the other fan attaches to the control board, and figure out which relay runs it… then swap out both relays!

  • Calumetpontoise

    Thank you so much Steve for your blog. We had a problem with our built-in Kitchenaid Architect model KBRO36FMX01 (freezer on bottom – custom hardwood panels). The fan and compressor were not working well for some times, fridge and freezer were not able to keep cold. And finally, last weekend everything went dead after a 24 hours of panel beeping, flashing and chirping and temperature going up and down.
    We tried to connect the fan directly on the wall but the beeping and chirping was still there and no cold. Even if our problem was not exactly the same as for you, we decided to change the two components on the boards as you suggest. On our board, it was already Omron relays and not NAIS like on yours. And the 2nd relay from top (the one you change) was already a Omron 5A 250VAC. I order from (in Canada) the Omron Relay (item number Z225-ND) for 3.94$ and a capacitor that is exactly the same as the original one on the board (item number 493-1082-ND) for 0.39$ and have them shipped overnight for a big extra 8$. Total : 15$. My husband and his friend change them on the board and Voila!… everything is working fine since – 72hours now. We are so happy. Can you imagine 15bucks!!!! and they sell us in Canada refurbish board for over 1000$.
    If you ever come to Montreal in Canada we want to celebrate that with you and offer you a good beer and a big poutine (local dish with homemade fries, gravy and cheese curds). Great blog!

    • Salut, Calumet. Alors, ca c’est des bonnes nouvelles! Felicitations! 🙂

  • Hi Steve,
    I’m another VERY happy reader of your blog on the dreaded control board issue. My Kitchenaid was short cycling and I just knew there had to be someone out there like you with the correct answer. I had already tried replacing the inverter box before finding your article but I am still way ahead of the game on cost. In my case the relay was fine so all I had to replace was the capacitor and now everything works fine. Since my wife and I do all our own home repairs and renovations we will definitely be checking your other articles.

    Thanks, Dave

  • Jay

    AWESOME! Steve, thank you so much for posting this information! You are a lifesaver! I had the same problem with my large side-by-side refrigerator and was getting frustrated over the cost and time it would take to repair. I did exactly as you described and went down to Radio Shack and purchased a $1.50 capacitor and soldered it in myself. This was really my first solder job, so I bought a solder kit and a desoldering iron (which made it soooo easy). Out the door with everything for $30. Took about 15 minutes to solder in, once I got the board off the refrigerator. Works great so far! THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR SHARING THIS!!!

  • Thank you for all the information.

    I have a 48 inch KitchenAid built in side by side (KSSP48QMS01). We had a brown out, the evaporator motor stopped working and the digital control board just blinked off and on. The lower end of the freezer kept frozen but that was about all. I called KitchenAid they sent out a repairman that said the evaporator motor and the digital control board was bad and he had to order them. Three weeks later we had to call KitchenAid to find out where are parts were and the repairman. They said the digital control board was not available. I found one on e-bay ($109.00 +$6.50 shipping) called the repairman who had the evaporator motor for him to install the components. Three days later he showed up installed the components and the issues were not fixed. While he was installing the components I was looking on line and found this article. Long story short he was stumped and said he would call KitchenAid. I went out to find a capacitor and the relay. Couldn’t find a relay in stock but did find the capacitor ($1.49). Installed it and it worked.

    Thank you again, Ray

  • stan

    Thanks for the detailed info — just wanted to say it inspired me to fix our kitchenaid frig, which had been constantly cycling on and clicking (though still seemed to cool). I had never soldered before but bought a soldering tool at radioshack and replaced the capacitor on my control board and now the frig is working great. a repair guy wanted 600 bucks to fix it. I spent under 20.

    • Congrats, Stan. That’s great!

      • Dan Foltz

        Steve, I never call a service repair company until I check the web because of the great people like you that post your experiences and knowledge for the rest of us to benefit from. Thank you.

        I was lucky to find your blog and replaced the capacitor and Orman relay and all systems preformed great. I have a 2006 48″ with compressor on the top and I left the grill off so I could check to see if the fan was coming on when I would hear the compressor come on and to my disappointment the fan was not coming on every time the compressor turned on. Any suggestions for analysis.


  • Kevin B.

    Another satisfied customer! Just finished up the repair, temps are 18/44 and falling!

  • Ken A

    Thank you for taking the time to write this up. I along with all the others I’m miffed as to why KitchenAid would ignore the postings that goes on with this. Even if its true with the plant that burned down in Japan after typhoon, Whirlpool would own the tape-up for the semiconductor that is on the board. It was likely a matter of finances whether they should farm it out to someone else. Sometimes the bottom line affects decisions like this because the board wasn’t shipping any longer. But just like ruining web visitors trust, manufacturers can also ruin consumer trust. This is the particular case where an executive decision didn’t have past customers in mind and it was purely a decision based on cost. ie: How many spares could they sell and at what cost / new line spin-up.

    To have a recondition process and contract with a repair company is so lame in today’s age where electronics are so inexpensive. In addition, they could have redesigned this to use an off the shelf FPGA and rid the custom (if indeed there is a custom). Everyone reading this blog should know that the current management only cares about future customers and not past.

    I did this repair: My 6 year old $7,000 KitchenAid KSSP48QMS02 fridge and required a > 20 minute restart. I had given up and was unloading whole fridge to another and it came on. (yeap I ensured I wasn’t in demo mode). It’s been running fine and I only changed the Capacitor. My symptoms were that Evap fan was cycling off and on. The relay could be heard picking and the audio beep was faint as it cycled. The fridge wasn’t cooling because the fan blows air to do so.

    If yours doesn’t come on right away, give it a while before you give up (note: it wasn’t 7 minutes like some other blogger mentioned as I timed it). 😀

  • Maureen

    Very interesting that so many people have the same experience (with Kitchenaid in my case) Your site was very helpful. I wasn’t able to reach Core Centric (full voicemail!) so I was very near to spending $1800 on a new fridge. There was no way I was going to spend $600 for a rebuilt board on Amazon. Did some calling around to local computer repair people this morning and my husband and I removed the board in about 15 mins (we’re NOT very handy.) As soon as he saw it he pointed to the capiciter and said it was bulging on top. Will be ready tomorrow! $95 in labor for those of us not experienced solder. He also recommended the surge protector as you said. Ordered in on Amazon. MANY THANKS!

  • Chuck C.

    Just wanted to thank you for this outstanding blog topic. I just spent that $1.49 ($1.58 with tax) at Radio shack and fixed this exact problem on our fridge.

  • Billy

    48″ built in with problem. I hear a beeping coming from what I guess is the main control board. Evap fan coming on and off and fan making growling noise. Called service tech and he said main control board would have to be sent out for repair. Two weeks turn around time and a loaner fridge, $585.
    After reading this blog and finding out no replacement boards available I am hesitant to try repair myself cause symptoms are different. Has anyone had this symptom/problem? Thanks

    • The growling noise might be the fan bearings going bad.

      However, there’s VERY little risk in trying this fix yourself. It’s $6 and not even an hour’s worth of work (keep the fridge closed and your stuff won’t even spoil while you do it). I’d say give it a shot and cross your fingers!

  • Hi Steve, Thank you so much for posting this.
    I have a KSSC42FMS01 and i am at the infancy stage of the problem. I hear the clicking and the fridge seems to always be restarting but the Fridge still seems to be working well.

    Should I apply the fix or wait until it dies?
    the sound is really annoying…

    Thank you.

    • Hmm… Couldn’t hurt to give “the fix” a shot and see if it solves the problem. At the very worst, you’ll at least extend the amount of time before the capacitor and relay fail (and they WILL fail). 🙂

  • Gary

    Thanks Steve! This article was a lifesaver! After Whirlpool told me nothing could be done and offered me 15% against purchase of a new unit, I was able to find someone to make the circuit board repairs as you outlined and everything back to normal in less than one day!

  • Peter Pham

    Hi Steve,
    I have a KitchenAid side-by-side model KSCS25FTMS02 with the same humming and chirping issue, called KitchenAid CS and they sent the tech to our home and he said they don’t fix the control board and don’t make it any more. So they refunded my extended warranty for @ $370 and told me I am on my own. I called local Appliance Repair Service and had 3 quotes ranging from $400-$600 and takes @ 3weeks. I googled the model and ran into your blog, I opened the control board and inspected the capacitor as you indicated, indeed, it went bad. I ran to Fry’s Electronics store nearby and got the capacitor for $1.49+tax, within 30 minutes I have the refrigerator back to life. Wahoo…
    Many thanks to you for this very details blog, I saved few hundreds bucks plus stopped the nag from my wife, just for the moment :-).

    A week went by, then my boys kept open/close the freezer door and suddenly we have no light to the dispenser, no water, no more making ice despite everything else works just fine. I am stumped and hope anyone have the same issue that can share how to resolve it.

    Thank you so very much in advance

  • Peter Pham

    Ah ha! I found the culprit. I re-opened the control board and checked all the wires and connectors, I found a loosing wire on connector P6 (3 wires) from the top left picture from Steve, one of the wire was loose and came off, probably during the time I opened to change the capacitor. I re-wired and pushed the connector back, powered up and voila, the light from the dispenser comes on, water works, waited about an hour and started to hear the ice making goes on. That’s it! Probably my bad during unplugging connectors but I learned a lot from this post and I even tested the freezer door switch for continuity and it works so that led me to think that I might have loose connectors in the control board.

    • NICE! Congrats on a successful fix, and for sticking with it till the problem was solved. 🙂

  • Radu Popovici

    Excellent article but is far too much for me as I am just a doctor. I likely have the same problem as my KitchenAid fridge does not cool anymore, I can hear a hi pitch low intensity on/off noise and the displayed temperature is fluttering. Can you tell me if that paper have the specs for the parts contained on the command board? Or where I can find the list with the parts?
    Thank you!

    • Dr. Radu: Sounds like your fridges symptoms are common. Just buy the parts I identify in the post, do some minor surgery, and your patient will live! 🙂

  • Tom Chou

    Awesome thread on a common, annoying problem it seems. My KSSC36FTS00 started
    beeping a lot, then one day stopped cooling and I lost control panel
    control. I replaced all 5 relays with panasonic JQ1P-B-12V-F 10A/250V,
    and three capacitors (I left the 2 small 16V 100uF untouched). Now,
    when I flip the main power switch on, after about 2 seconds, I hear a
    click which are the relays engaging/disengaging. The control panel is
    fully functional, the interior lights (both fridge and freezer) come
    on. Then after about another 2 seconds, there is another click of the
    relay(s), and the interior lights go off, but the control panel is
    still fully functional. At no time does the compressor or any fan turn
    on. Then, I did the 7-step diagnostic from the control panel and I get
    that everything works (fans turn on) except the compressor never does
    (and of course the interior lights stay off).

    Anyway, no matter what I do, I always get the second clicking and the
    interior lights going off after a few seconds, and everything stays
    dead (except when I do diagnostic mode where some components turn
    on). I put my finger of the relays and I THINK I feel that the second
    click comes from the thrid relay from the top of column of four, and
    perhaps also the lone relay.

    ANY clue what this could be? Could a broken invertor board to the
    compressor actually make the lights extinguish? Any suggestion what to
    do next? Replace the last 2 caps? I am buying GE or LG from now on….
    let’s boycott this company!

    • Wow – you’re already deeper into repair territory with your control board than I’ve been, Tom! Have you checked to see if the compressor is getting power when the relay switches power to it?

      • Tom Chou

        I learned all this from your website and one other blog!

        120 VAC is going into the inverter, but the red/red-white control wires (corresponding to P7 pins 2 and 3) read ZERO, so no power is going into the compressor. The compressor leads are also at 6-7 Ohms. This is so strange and the only think I can come up with is either the bad inverter board is inactivating the other fridge components (unlikely), OR, your streak has been broken by a REALLY bad board (bad processor chip?). I ordered a refurbished board at great cost and I hope it works, or I’ll be out more money and be even more angry at KitchenAid/Whirlpool.

        • Hoping Peter is right and that it’s a loose connection. Otherwise, I think the dead chip is the next likely culprit, since you’ve pretty much replaced all the other problem spots. Rather than purchase a refurb board, did you consider sending it to CoreCentric?

    • Peter Pham

      Hey Tom,
      Double check all the connectors and wires from the control board to any loose connection. It happened to mine when I fixed the capacitor and had 1 loose wire, couple days later my dispenser light went out, no water, no ice (even the ice maker stopped). Good luck!

  • Steve,
    Thanks for allowing me to post a link to my website here.

    I own
    We specialize in repairing discontinued appliance control boards.

    These boards are almost impossible to come by for under $800 (used) it’s not a repair you want to go wrong.
    I could be a resource for your visitors who may not feel comfortable tackling this repair themselves. My repair has a 2 year warranty (if installed by an appliance company) & uses upgraded components than what came OEM. Depending on the board part number the repair typically range from $160-$220.

    Again, thanks for allowing me to post.

    • I want to thank Andy for actually emailing me for permission before commenting with his link. And while I can’t personally endorse his work because I haven’t had to use it (yet?), the fact that he asked for permission instead of acting like a spammer gets him a thumbs up in my book. 🙂

  • Also Tom,
    Yes, I’d replace the other 2 caps 16uF?
    Also, double check your work on all the solders you did. They should look like tiny, shiny volcanos. Have a slight concave to them. If they’re balled up its too much solder or could have been a cold joint. (I.e. Solder not allowed to flow)
    Your problems do sound board related & power control board specifically.
    Also, when you were soldering – there is a 2 second rule – where you shouldn’t apply heat for more than 2 seconds at a time. Longer and you may have damaged components.

    I’d inspect every single solder joint on the board and reflow (I.e. Apply heat with the solder gun) any solder joints that look suspect.

    Keep us posted.

    • Tom Chou

      OK, I replaced all 5 electrolytic caps, and all 5 relays….and I am experienced with soldering.
      Made very nice shiny smooth “volcanoes” and used flux pen to get solder into the thru-holes.
      Also, I used an ohm meter to check all solder joints on caps and relays.

      No dice….the streak is broken (although someone earlier seems to have had a broken microprocessor). I bought 2 boards, one new, one refurbished (the total cost was probably the same as a new LG fridge). Both work. My old board cannot engage the compressor and shuts off internal lights after 3 seconds….but otherwise seems to go through the diagnostics fine. I think some other element must broken like a diode or one of the surface mount transistors. Now with 2 working boards they should last me the lifetime of the ice box.

    • Tom Chou

      Also, after leaving my bad board plugged in, relays K1 and K2 feel hot….this doesn’t happen with the working boards. Current is flowing through when it shouldn’t. I would love to be able to fix this board still….so I can sell one of my two extra boards and recoup my losses in this stupid product/company!

  • Gianni

    Steve, I can’t thank you enough for sharing. Your article saved me from replacing my $7,000 fridge as a local service company wanted just under a $1,000 to do the repair. While I did cheat and use CoreCentric to rebuild my board, the $121 was well spent and made me look like a hero at home.

  • Dan Midtdal

    I am mystified because several months go my fridge was shutting down twice a day. I found that once I had removed the control panel and laid it down flat, that when the fridge shut off I could feel (touch) the relay right away. Sure enough the relay was hotter than the other ones. i thought heat dissipation might be the problem so I left the board laid out. I also ordered the relay on line, no one in this town had anything like it. In the meantime, my wife was cleaning the fridge in preparation for it being out action for the repair part to arrive. There was a plastic bag blocking a vent in the freezer apparently. Well it never shut down again after that and I already have the relay in hand just in case. Could an overstocked freezer be the cause of some of these relay failures?

  • D McNab

    Thanks for your fix. You just saved me $7,000 (yes I have one of the built-ins). Replaced the capacitor and she fired right back up. Sweet. Thanks again.

  • Maureen

    Replaced the capacitor at Thanksgiving and 2 weeks later having problems again. Had the relay replaced and we’re back in business. If you’re like us and are paying someone to do the soldering, I would replace both at the same time and save the extra labor cost. Still beats buying a new fridge, though.

    • Hi, Maureen. Great feedback. As you’ve discovered, the hard part is having the fridge offline and removing the control board. While it’s out, it’s literally only $5 more expensive to replace the relay at the same time as the capacitor. Glad you got it fixed! 🙂

  • Francisco

    Steve, hi…I also want to thank you for this blog post. My fridge started acting up 3 weeks ago, when the tech came a weeks later he told me the control board was discontinued, I could send to repair for $200 or replace fridge.
    Thankfully after reading your post I took out the control board and noticed the bulging capacitor. I when into amazon to ordered a soldering kit, the relay, and capacitor for about $34 total. This morning I unsoldered and replaced both…been running smoothly for over 8 hours now. Thanks so much!

  • Leo Freeman

    Great post Steve. The fans on my unit were short cycling 24/7. After changing the capacitor the problem was solved. Thanks for your public service. It saved me $1000+. You’re the best.

  • Ken Wirgler

    Hi Steve,
    I am one of the many who had the same problem with my KitchenAid refrigerator. Thanks to your blog I also was able to solve the issue by replacing the capacitor and relay. All seems to be working great again. Given the long list of folks who have been suffering with this problem and the even longer list of products from Whirlpool that may end up with the problem it is interesting that some sort of class action law suit has not been started. If this were cars we were dealing with the lawsuit probably would be under way. My refrigerator is the same age as yours – about 8 years now. The gentleman who sold me the product tells his customers that the refrigerator should be good for 15 to 20 years. He is having different thoughts now. KitchenAid customer service was absolutely no help other than to offer me a slight discount on a new unit. They did not even suggest to go on the internet to find help. Fortunately I happened to do a search on the Control Board part number and found your blog. You saved me about $7000 for a new unit. I probably feel like many others – I will avoid Whirlpool products in the future. And let others know as well.

  • Warren

    Steve, thank you from another very satisfied reader. I was extremely pissed when I found out the control board isn’t made anymore. Talk about a company not standing behind their product. Anyway, rather than send the board into be repaired, I did the cap/relay replacement and all good. The capacitor was bulging so it was definitely an issue.

    My Jenn Air is just 6 years old – and is a built-in model. It is completely unacceptable that a major manufacturer doesn’t stand behind an $8,500 appliance!!

    Anyway – your blog was brilliant and much appreciated. Like most here, I will never give Whirlpool another dime of money in my lifetime!!

  • Hey Steve. Wow, you’re amazing. This is pretty awesome, and now I know how to solve this problem! Here is my issue, my parents are the one who have been having the problem with their refrigerator for quite a while, and a new problem on top of this one (that the cold air doesn’t seem to be circulating inside the refrigerator and freezer) has appeared. The freezer is very cold at the bottom, so I think the compressor is working, but the air isn’t circulating. Does this board control the evaporator fan that circulates air that is behind the panel in the freezer as well? Or should I just check and try replacing that fan as well?

    Thanks so much!!


    • Dan Midtdal

      I think I had a similar problem. The fridge kept shutting down and I would reset it by unplugging it fro an hour and tyen plugging it back in. At the end of all this my wife cleaned out the freezer and discovered a plastic bag covering a vent between the freezer and fridge. Problem solved.

  • Just did this on a 42″ built-in Kitchen Aid refrigerator. Replaced both the capacitor and relay. Fixed the annoying beeping sound! I never did any soldering before (and never even thought about trying it on a circuit board for a $7,000 fridge), but your blog and instructions gave my confidence to do it myself. It now works! Many thanks Steve!!!

  • Bella

    Thank you so very much!!!! We have a Kitchen Aid kbro36fmx01 that we inherited from the previous owners of the house we bought 5 years ago. The beeping was driving us crazy. So much spoiled food overtime. I found your blog and bought a new capacitor and relay. Thankfully my husband already knew how to solder, so today I took the control board out and voila!! Within 8 minutes I could hear it kick on and we now have a fully working refrigerator. You are so kind to share your experience.

  • Is it possible/likely that multiple relays would have failed? Is there a way to test each relay to figure out which are bad? I ask because I think two relays have failed but I don’t know how to confirm. Can a multimeter be used somehow?



    • Hi, Thomas. Yes, it’s possible that more than one relay is dead. Based on the comments in this post, the most likely is the single capacitor and relay, but if one relay can fail, they all can. 🙂 The way to test a relay is to supply power to the power leads, then test the relay circuit leads to ensure zero (or near zero) resistance. Here’s a great YouTube video that shows how with a car relay, but the concept is the same.

    • Tom Chou

      Sort of….there is one pair of leads on the relays that should be about 360 Ohms (figure out which two by testing all combinations….I can’t put a picture up right now).
      Other leads should be open (infinite resistance). This does not guarantee that they are working though, but if not 360 Ohms, then they’re probably bad.

      However, from my previous post, I think although it seems 95% of times its C32 and K2 or K3,
      it can be something else since I replaced ALL relays and ALL electrolytic capacitors and I still couldn’t get it to work.

      • Tom’s right, and he’s also our streak breaker (LOL!). But I’ll still holding out hope that Tom will figure out yet another way to fix these fridges — and then we’ll have yet another way to stick it to the factory repair guys. 🙂

  • Jeff Niesz

    Hi Steve, awesome site I stumbled upon after my wife threw out the service and wiring sheet from the secret compartment which forced me to frantically search the internet for a replacement. I ran the diagnostics because a fan (not sure if freezer, condenser, evaporator fan?) keeps intermittently and inconsistently starting and stopping all day. Sometimes on for 2 seconds, off for 2 secs, sometimes on 5, then off 2, then runs for 20 secs, etc.. The fridge and freezer itself are working otherwise, keeping things cold in the fridge and frozen in the freezer. When I run the diagnostics from the directions on the super secret sheet, it all seems to check out with the exception that I get a “2” for item 5 which is the compressor. Do you think this is truly a compressor issue, or simply a relay or control board issue? Trying to be proactive, but don’t want to pay KitchenAid $379.00 for their rep +1 service that provides basically visits, diagnostics, part and labor for a period of one year from date of service. Thanks!

    • Jeff Niesz

      Also, forgot to mention that this started (or at least we started noticing) the fan issue 2 to 3 weeks ago.

    • Hi, Jeff. It’s so cheap and easy just to replace the items (and they are the weak link anyway and will eventually die if they haven’t already), that you may as well give it a shot and see what happens! 🙂

  • steve

    Steve you are awesome! Thanks so much for your great post. After getting a $1200 repair estimate and up to 2 weeks without a fridge estimate I luckly found your post and for $6 and a couple hours of work my Kitchenaid 48″ built-in works as good as new!

  • Kimberly

    Hi Steve, my Whirlpool (GC3SHEXNS00) is having issues. I followed your instructions by replacing a relay and capacitor (same circuit board as yours). Now rather than having dead silence, the fridge is now making a chirping sound. I must have done something right, but I’m not 100% —yet. Any suggestion on what [else] might be wrong? I appreciate you sticking up for the average consumers.

    Thank you,

  • Kim K.

    Hi Steve, I changed the capacitor and relay on my Whirlpool (GC3SHEXNS00). Before changing it, the fridge was dead with no displays. After attempting a fix, it now chirps with no display. I appreciate any feedback and am at your mercy right now.


    • Strange. I’d check to make sure there’s no extra solder touching anything. And it’s possible that one of the other relays is fried. At this point, I’d attempt swapping out the remaining relays. If that doesn’t fix it, it’s likely a fried chip… and that’s not fixable. 🙁

  • David

    I am having similar issues with our built-in Kitchen Aid refrigerator and I plan to attempt to the switch out with the new capacitor and relay. However, I’m curious as to why it always seems to be the same relay that goes bad? What functions do the others control? It seems like a bit of a gamble for me to assume the same relay is bad on mine without visible evidence. How do I know for sure which relay needs replaced? It sounds like everyone here is replacing the same one as you, the 2nd from the top?

    • Hi, David. I have no idea why that seems to be “the one” — I just know that it’s the high percentage shot. If that didn’t fix my issue, I’d probably take a stab at the others, too, since they are not expensive.

  • Steve,

    Because I started out armed with the knowledge you have written in this blog…….

    Same story, different day! 7 year old built in Kitchen Aid refrigerator. Called Whirlpool…The Rep said, Oh, can’t really tell you anything….need a diagnosis….you need to have a repairman come to your door….will set you up with an appointment for next Wednesday…here is their number…..they called early this morning and said it would be $95.00 to show up. I told the receptionist that it “was” the control board and did they have a source to get one?….they said “Can’t give you that information without the tech coming by first to confirm it is the control board. I told her again, “IT IS” the control board and I know they are no longer available! Do you have a source for this “unavailable” part? The response I received was….I am not going to argue with you! The tech must come out before ANY information is given!……..I said ” Cancel the call immediately”! Felt good to tell them that!

    I immediately went to Da Shack and per your instructions picked up the capacitor, brought it home and soldered it onto the board. I also ordered the relay, from Amazon and as soon as it arrives, I will replace the suspect one.

    Bottom line “Thank you”!!! The capacitor was an immediate success story! The beeping stopped, the compressor is working and the frig has gone from 67 degrees to 44 degrees, so for the moment, everything is looking good…frustration level is subsiding, blood pressure dropping, food is cooling again, what more could a guy want?

    Thanks again,


  • Kimberly

    Steve, I will likely send my board to Core Centric. I haven’t ruled out checking the other relays, but I’m apprehensive as I may fry the board. Many thanks to you for your time and assistance.

  • David

    He Steve. Great info. Just wanted to point out that your Amazon link for the relay and your Listmania link both take me to a 10A version of the relay, not the 5A version you show and describe in the blog. That may lead some to purchase the 10A relay and not even realize it. Not sure if a 10A relay would be safe to use since the original is a 4A?

    • Hi, David. Great catch. That was a typo in my article (I’ve fixed it). The Omron relay has two ratings 5A max for 30VDC, and 10A max for 250VDC. So yes, it’s a 10A relay, and the one in the Amazon link I provide is the right one. Thanks! 🙂

  • Al

    Many thanks Steve for posting this fix! I ordered the parts you posted from amazon and just received them today. Replaced the cap and relay and was back up and running in less than an hour!

    I didn’t use the desoldering tool as you suggested, but I could see instantly that it would have made removing the old components, especially the relay, much easier. I needed quick fingers to keep the solder hot on all five points to get that relay out… But all-in-all it was a fast fix.

    Thanks again!!!

  • Bruce

    Hi Steve, I have a KItchenaid KSCS25IN with the 2307028 control board. I have had multiple symptoms similar to yours and those posted by others, e.g., hot mullion strip, flakey temp readings, fan problems, etc.. It became more difficult to maintain set temps and then the evaporator fan started to cycle off and on. I also found that it was not defrosting. I replaced the evaporator fan and defrost thermostat without success. I came across your post and ordered the caps and relays. Before my order arrived, the evaporator fan finally shut off. I had power but no cold air circulation and the temperatures were rising rapidly. I ran out and bought the C32 capacitor. The plug of the old capacitor was pushing out of the bottom. Amazing, after replacing it, both fans work (condenser fan probably hadn’t worked for some time), temps are stable and as set, no more noises or cycling off and on! I plan to replace the relay as well.
    Thank you!!!

  • Kurt

    Awesome info Steve! Our 10 year old KitchenAid built-in recently started chirping. i noticed the display panel was blinking synchronized to the chirps. I used my voltmeter on the capacitor and could see the voltage dropping. What’s happening is the cpu tries to switch on the relay. The current surge is causing the voltage to drop due to the failing capacitor. The reduced voltage causes the cpu to reset. It powers back up and the cycle continues. I saw no need to replace the relay as the problem was clearly the capacitor. I replaced it and its back to normal operation now.

    BTW, our controller board was already populated with 10A Omron relays. This was the first problem we’ve had with this refrigerator


  • Ray


    I just want to add my name to the others and THANK YOU for this blog. Your research and reporting was top notch and it saved me a lot of money.

    We have a Kitchen Aid built-in purchased in the spring of 2007 that started to exhibit many of the same symptoms described. Our coil fan was fine, but the compressor was “short cycling”; on for 20 seconds, off for 2 seconds, on for 20, off for 2, etc. The displays would flicker and not always come on. It also made a very distinctive “chirping” noise every few minutes.

    I replaced the capacitor and it has been working fine for 2 days now. No chirping, solid displays, and the compressor is running normally.

    One comment, although the original capacitor is designed for power supply applications and has very good ratings, it is obviously a high failure rate part, and I would recommend a higher quality part with higher ratings be used as a replacement.

    The Radio Shack part you suggested is very easy to get, but it is just an average grade general purpose cap. It’s rated life, temperature rating, and ripple current rating are all less than the original part. I would recommend a “low ESR” or “low impedance” capacitor designed for power supply applications, with a minimum 5,000 hour life rating, a 105 deg C rating, and a 50 volt rating rather than 35 volt to hopefully give it a little more life. There are multiple parts available from multiple sources. I happened to use a Nichicon brand capacitor, part number: UPJ1H221MHD6 that I got from for $.82. The capacitor has a slightly larger diameter but still fits nicely on the board.

    I also bought the relays, but since I was not having any fan problems, I decided not to replace the relay (if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.) One difference in my case, was that that the board was originally built with the higher rated Omron relays you suggested, so I felt comfortable with the original parts. (Mouser also has the Omron relay listed at $2.65.)

    Thanks again.


    • Thanks, Ray. Interesting that some of the boards (probably later ones) have the beefier relays. If my cap fries again, I will certainly check out the higher rated one you recommended. Thanks!

  • Marion Triner

    Steve, cant thank you enough. Very few people would take the time and trouble to post a fix like this with all the details and pictures. Had same issue built in 42, same diagnosis from kitchenaid. We are not handy at all. We got the control board out and sent it to another place for 100.00 plus shipping.They were familiar with the fix. They replaced all capacitors and relays. Had it back in 6 days. Just installed it a few hours ago. so far no chirping or cycling. Hopefully a few more hours till its ready. We did take your advice and put the surge protector in.
    Once again thanks!!!!

  • Marion Triner

    when we replaced the control board today everything seems fine and temp is correct. when I opened the fridge to put things away I noticed the gaskets(seals ) around fridge door seem very hot. Checked and the fan seems to be running ok? any ideas

  • Joe

    I wanted to say thanks for your Whirlpool control board post on your blog.
    Our 2006 side by side the KitchenAid started having issues over the 2014 Christmas break where the condenser fan would run constantly, but stop and start all day long. Some times it would only run for less than a second before kicking off, and stay off for less than a second before kicking back on. I could also hear a small chirp, like when you press a temperature control button everytime it started. Off and on, and chirping all day/night long. The price to reman the board was not bad, but it was the turn around time to ship, reman, and get the board back that was not possible (Especially during the holidays). I found your blog and I know what I had to do. I followed your advise and purchased the replacement capacipter from Radio Shack, and the relay from Amazon. The most expensive piece of this project was the soldering iron that I also purchased from Radio Shack. After a couple quick tutorials from youtube, I was able to successfully desolder, and solder the new pieces into place. I put the everything back together and haven’t had any issues since.
    Again, thanks for time that you took to write the blog and document your steps in detail. You saved us!

  • Chris McGann

    Just wanted to say thanks for this info. I had the exact problem with my KitchenAid Superba refrigerator, but I followed your steps to a “T”, and everything works great now. Thanks again and keep up the good work.

  • Suzie


    A few months back we read thru your great blog and were able to replace the capacitor on our Kitchenaid control board. Working great until it just went dead the other day. Fiddled with the capacitor and it went back on so figured our solder may have gone bad. replaced the capacitor again just to make sure, but now when we go to plug it all back in we get a air blowing whistle sound – maybe an alarm? coming from the black flat round disc thing….any ideas? is it just time for a new board? I am determined to fix it again myself!

    Thanks! Suzie

  • Larry Hunter

    Hello Steve and thanks very much for your blog. I went along with your advise to replace both the capacitor and the relay. I got the Cap. at Radio Shack for $1.49 plus tax of .12 and ordered the relay on line through “Mouser Electronics”. The relay is the beefier one you suggested, cost me $2.65. The bad news is I paid $4.95 for shipping and handling. So, all of the parts and shipping were less than $10.00. Nice!! All I had was old soldering equipment and not good at that kind of work either. Rather than going out and purchasing everything, I found a man at EPO computers that did it all for me for $20.00. I installed the repaired board yesterday and the refrigerator is working like a champ.

    Before I discovered your blog, I had a quote from a local service group for $686.00 and at least 7 days for repair turn around. I complained to the Retail Store where I bought the Frig. 7 years ago, and two other repair groups would not even call me back! I was unhappy to say the least. So I figure you saved me over $600. in repairs and I ‘ve heard others just went out and bought a new refrigerator. My unit is a high capacity counter depth frig. and a like in kind replacement stared at 2,650.

    I hope others, with this problem, get on the net and discover your site. They won’t regret following your advise. Thanks again, Larry in Houston

    • That’s great news, Larry. Congrats on the fix — now go spend that $600 on something fun. 😉

  • George C

    I just fixed my builtin: KSSC48QMS03!

    Thanks so much. I only replaced the capacitor, but I will order the relays. The frige was on its last leg.

    I sent the wifey out to RadioShack while I pried the board out….uuuggh! On the KSSC48QMS03, you need to remove all of the screws on the right side of the main aluminum housing so you can prop it up, otherwise it will be especially difficult-to-impossible to work the board out. Then you need to remove the two screws of the main board housing which is a real pita. You’ll need a short flat head screw driver to access these screws.

    You can order everything from

    Nichicon UPW1V221MPD
    Digi-Key Part Number 493-1863-ND
    $0.43 each

    Omron Electronics Inc-EMC Div G5Q-14 DC12
    Digi-Key Part Number Z225-ND
    $3.25 each

    Note: the above Nichicon cap is better than the RadioShack. 105c vs 85c. My RadioShack is going out of business in a few days, btw.

  • Ken

    I just fixed my builtin: KSSC48QMS01 on Chinese New Year Eve !

    Thanks so much for great info and detailed instruction. A local repair guy quoted $685 and one week lead time. I only replaced the capacitor from Radio Shock. Not sure how long it will work, as it is only 85C instead 105C temperature rating.

    B.T.W You can use socket ranch to remove the two screws of the main board housing that hold the main control board. Took me no more than 2 min.

    Thanks again Steve !

    • Congrats, Ken – and Happy CNY! BTW – I’ve recently updated the links in this article to point to 105C rated capacitors at Amazon and Digi-Key.

  • Andy

    Loved your excellent write up. I too had a similar problem, except my refer was staying cool. But you could hear the fan relay start and stop the fan over and over all day long. I had a repair company come out, because I knew the constant start/stop function wouldn’t last long before something failed.
    They diagnosed the problem as the relay control board and said they would call with an estimate. When they called, I couldn’t believe that Whirlpool no longer supplied the part and they couldn’t fix it. They offered to remove the board and reinstall it if I had the board repaired at a place they recommend (Core Centric). Approx. $150 labor and $110 at Core Centric.
    That’s when I started scouring the web for alternatives. Found all the usual ones mentioned in the comments above and your blog. I did find the board at Sears Parts Direct for $151, and decided to try the repair myself and if it didn’t work, to buy the board. Although I hadn’t done any soldering like this since I built a Heathkit ham radio in the 1960’s, I was inspired by the lady above who had never done any soldering, and fixed her refer.
    I found the relay at Newark and when checking out, I noticed that they had a “frequently bought with” item which was the capacitor I needed. (Makes you wonder how many of these failures there have been)
    Anyway, the parts arrived, I removed the board, replaced the capacitor and the relay, reinstalled the board, waited the 8 minutes, and WaLaa, refer fixed for under $20.
    Thanks for a great write-up. The surge protector is on order.

    • Congrats, Andy! Another fantastic success story to add to our collection. But you’re being modest – if you can build a Heathkit HAM radio, you can pretty much fix anything. 🙂

  • Ken


    It has been three days since I replaced capacitor C32 and my KSSC48QMS01 is working fine.

    However, seems the fan is always runing now and I m no sure if this is right? FYI: The temperature setting is 1F for Freezer /34F for Refg.

    Please advise.

    Thank you.


    • I bet your fan relay is stuck “on.” I’d go ahead and replace the recommended relay, too. Come back and let us know if that solves your problem! 🙂

  • Josef

    Bottom line: You bestride the earth like a colossus of yore! My Kenmore Elite *Counter-depth* fridge was busted like nobody’s business – for a several weeks, the compressor fan cycled on and off every 5-6 seconds continuously for 24 hours/day. The fridge kept cold (too cold, actually) but the freezer wouldn’t properly defrost (it was like a mini snowstorm in there with all of the accumulated frost) and the compressor fan cycling continuously couldn’t have been good for it either. Then about a month ago it gave up the ghost completely and we ended up having to trek downstairs to the ancient garage fridge for cold stuff. The kids hated it, and the evil stares from my wife were starting to make me feel nervous. So, I did what everybody else with 3 brain cells does and checked out google for a solution. Voi la – I find your blog and order the parts you recommended (two of each, just in case!). Taking the back panel off and the control box out took 15 minutes, and the circuit board was out 2 minutes later. The first thing I see is a capacitor that looks like a miniature Pepsi can left overnight in the freezer – bulging nearly to the point of exploding! 2 minutes later, it’s swapped out (I have a great hot air SMD station for this sort of stuff). And then I took the rest of your advice and replaced the potentially offending relay. Put it all back together, and seconds later, my fridge is fixed, my kids are happy, my wife is back to giving evil stares to the dog for all of the dumb cr#p she does, and my credit card is thrilled for spending less than $10 in total, as opposed to the several hundred for a refurb board (with $5 of parts they would have replaced in less than 5 minutes of labor) or the several thousand for a new counter-depth high-end fridge. Phew! You saved me. If you’re ever in the South San Francisco Bay area, I owe you a beer! By the way, Digi-Key is a GREAT place to order these sorts of one-off items – good prices, reasonable shipping, and got it here fast!

    • LOL – thanks, Josef! There’s nothing like the feeling of a good DIY fix… except for the ability to redirect wife’s ire back to the dog! 🙂

  • Greg D

    Hi Steve –

    You, sir, are an internet legend. I have no real soldering skills, or good tools, or really much of anything to qualify me for pulling apart my refrigerator. But for about $25 and in less than an hour, my fridge is working again! The pinging/cycling noise has stopped, the fridge is staying cool on its own, and now I know how a solder sucker works!

    Thank you Steve. You have helped me be a household hero tonight! By the way… those 7 minutes waiting for the fridge to restart are a looooong 7 minutes.

    Do you have a PayPal address? I would love to send you something for all the heartache and expense you have saved me. I’ll bet others would want to do the same. Please post if you are comfortable.


    • Hi, Greg. All hail the household hero! 🙂 Congrats on the fix, and while I appreciate your offer, your kind words are payment enough!

  • Dan Marshall

    Thank you very much for sharing the issue, symptoms, trouble shooting steps, solution, and parts ordering link. My 9 year old refrigerator was identical to yours. I was able to get the parts and repair it in one week. Cooling just fine now.
    My ice maker has not worked in six years. Everything I checked was good so I just buy ice every few months. Do you have any steps to resolve the icemaker not running?

  • David

    Thanks for the post Steve! Saved me lot so of money and mental anguish. It was a first for me to: use a solder vacuum, un-solder and re-solder capacitors and relays and also attempt to fix an appliance myself. Now I want to check out our Kitchen Aid Microwave and Dishwasher, which we purchased at the same time as our newly fixed fridge, and see why they do not work. Fixed any of those before? I probably will never buy anything new from that brand, but I think it could also be because they lacked a surge protector. Not sure why the Sony TV’s power strip has never tripped though. It is connected to the same line (circuit breaker) as the fridge and microwave. Dish washer has its own line. Anyways more fixes to do. Thank you for the post and as an engineer I love the details you put into it!

    Btw the capacitor stuck to the board on mine. The capacitor blew towards the board and kind of attached the two together. In case people feel the capacitor is not coming out, don’t be afraid to carefully wiggle it out with a pair of pliers. You are going to throw it away anyways.

    Also if the surge protector for anyone else who after installing it starts beeping. It means the person that wired your outlet reversed the black and white lines. That is what happened to me. Its not defective as I initially thought and sent one back to Amazon. Oops. Remember to shut off the circuit breaker and testing the line for current before rewiring it.

    To save people time, these are the parts I bought from digi-key, they have a looooooot of capacitors. My pins were too narrow though by about 1mm (suppose to be 3.5mm), anyways maybe it will save people time:

    1189-1897-ND, capacitor, $0.92
    Z225-ND, relay, $3.52


  • Larry

    Hi Steve,
    Another happy camper here. Followed your step by step instructions and got it fixed. It’s been two weeks now, still running nice and cool. Unfortunately I bought a fan first before I found your link so I had a ~$90 tuition cost as well. So, thanks for taking the time to posting these very detailed process steps.

    Best regards,

    • Hi, Larry. Sorry you were out an extra $90, but glad to see you are up and running again! 🙂

  • Kent

    Steve – Did repair, hooked everything back up, NOTHING! I thought maybe it was in Demo Mode. Tried that, nothing! Everything works except for cooling. I ordered 3 more relays to replace all of them. Should I replace those and try again for the nominal cost? GC5SHEXNS00 Whirlpool. HELP?!?!?!

    • Hi, Kent. It’s possible that it’s the other relays, since those “kick on” everything electrical (fan, compressor, etc.) But it’s also possible that if your fan wasn’t kicking on for a long time, the compressor possibly overheated and failed. If you swap the relays and it still doesn’t work (check your soldering to make sure it’s all clean), then I’d start wondering about the possibility of a failed compressor.

      • Kent

        Relays are on the way! Keep you informed in the next week on my results.

  • Mauricio

    I have a similar story. My 48″ built in KitchenAid refrigerator started making clicking, buzzing and beeping noises. The control panel was working intermittently and the temperature was fluctuating. I did a google search and came upon your website. The diagnosis matched but the fix seemed like alot of work so I call the repair man.

    Nice repair man tells me the main board is toast *and* that I need to replace the compressor, fan and who knows what else because a no longer functioning fan caused other components to fail. Estimate: $1500 – $2000. Don’t want to do the repair, fine, go buy yourself a new $8,000 – $10,000 fridge. I send the man packing with $40 for his time.

    Back to google and back to re-reading your article a few times. I place the order for the required components and tools. Worst case the fridge still doesn’t work and I need to send the board out for repair. Best case I save lots of cash.

    The components arrived in a few days and I started to work. Once the board was out I soldered the components, reassembled everything and fired the fridge up…twice (forgot to attach a power harness). Second time around everything works perfectly!!! The compressor ran overtime for about 24 hours as the temperature normalized. Since then (a couple of weeks ago) everything has been normal.

    Thank you for your excellent write up!

  • Rita

    Hey Steve! I just wanted to share this option for people who may have bad microprocessors! I sent my board to Core Centric and was told I have a bad MCU aka microprocessor. I sent it to Fix your board and they replaced my chip, and gave me a 10 year warranty on the board. It was $400 for this service.. but given the warranty, I think it is a much better option than buying a replacement board.

  • Ian Harrill

    Hi there….. Like everyone who has already commented, this was the fix for my kitchenaid refrigerator. THANK YOU so much. never would have thought I could do this myself but alas – success !!

    A follow up also – on my first ‘repair’ iteration I only replaced the capacitor, and, like one of your comments above, the fridge worked well for about a week until it started displaying high temperature warnings. BUT the compressor and fan were both working and the capacitor did not exhibit bulging. The freezer compartment was very cold, the compressor seemed to be running full time yet the fridge compartment wasn’t keeping up and was beginning to warm slightly more each day. I eventually opened the freezer compartment, pulled out the lower drawers and presto – there was the problem. FROST buildup over and within the lower vent – the intake for the cooling column where the ‘radiator’ like freezing grill is located. Air was not flowing…..and WHY? Because I had not replaced the relay on my first attempt (as you suggested). Refrigeration was occurring but frost had built up because there was no airflow because the fan wasn’t working because the relay hadn’t been replaced. I took the interior back panel off, defrosted the buildup in the grill, replaced the relay on the control board and we are good to go!

    Btw – I was not able to find a 4amp relay but used a 10 amp – this was also mentioned above re:reconditioned controller boards

    • Glad you were able to get it working, Ian! And thanks for helping remind everyone that as long as you have the board out and the fridge offline, you may as well replace the capacitor and relay (10A one is fine) at the same time! 🙂

  • Tom

    Hi Steve,
    I have a KSSC48QTS02 KitchenAid built-in refrigerator. I have similar problem where the freezer is always -9 and Fridge is always 59 and mullion strip is hot. The alarm kept beeping and the relay kept tripping. So after reading your article and people comments, I decided to send my board in to corecentric solution to get it fixed.

    Today my board arrived, and they replaced the relay and capacitor just like you’ve mentioned in your article. I installed the board back and turned on the fridge. At first, everything started up fine, no alarm or relay tripping sound. But I’ve noticed the compressor is hot- I can’t put my hand there for even 5 seconds. The fan blowing to the condenser is running normal. Is that normal? After a few hours, the display on the freezer showed 0 and then jumped to -9 and back to 0 and the fridge’s 37. The manufacture’s recommended setting is 0 and 37, I wonder if you know what’s going on? Is there anything I can test or replace?

    Thank you very much for your help, I really appreciated.


    • Hi, Tom. That’s a weird one. Have you checked to see if you have lint buildup?

  • Kathy

    Hi Steve – My Kitchen aid is only 6 years old & was overhauled completely while under warranty, 2 years ago. My motherboard apparently is shot. What a stupid appliance company – discontinued part? Anyway, I will try & follow your instructions with the new parts you indicated, & hopefully this will fix my basically, brand new refrigerator. Also I think the surge protector is an excellent idea because our electricity goes our randomly.
    Thank you for the information.
    Have a good day!

  • Sam

    Thanks Steve

    Superior blogging job! Replaced cap & relay and all works great. Wife now figures I am smart (somewhat). May you get an eternal reward!

  • Hey Steve,

    I am in need of your help again and I would be enormously grateful! I’m experiencing a problem with the defrost system that I think is related to a relay failure, and I was wondering if you could tell me which of the relays (and capacitors if that’s an issue) on the board are responsible for the defrost system. I replaced the parts you showed here which fixed my problem with the fan and compressor cycling, but I’d like to try and fix the defrost problem before my spring break ends and I go back to school this weekend. Thank you so much!

    • Hi, Thomas. I’m not actually a repair guy, and basically just figured out the stuff on this blog via trial and error (and shipping the board off to CoreCentric). So my best advise would simply be to replace ALL the relays. They’re cheap, and the hard part is getting the board out anyway. If it is a relay problem, rather than spend the time tracking down which one, your time’s probably best spent just swapping them all out. 🙂

    • Thomas, as Steve said, my recommendation is to change all relays. I opened the first one I replaced just to take a look inside. Fro my surprise, contactor inside relay was FRIED!!!…so I decided to replace all of them ,as I think they have a factory issue with them. I replaced the 5 relays and 2 capacitors a year ago after read this post and my fridge went back to life. Defrost issues, holiday mode, unbalanced temps, fan issues etc are all of them handled by this board. Good Luck!!!

  • r lavigne

    Thank you for the thorough DIY details, outstanding.
    We used Circuit Board Medics and could not be happier with the results. Their communication was top rate, they turned our board around in 24 hours and our $7000 Kitchenaid refrigerator is working perfectly again (hope it stays that way).

    Tell your friends about Circuit Board Medics, tell your enemies to buy a Kitchenaid fridge 🙂

  • Thanks! Problem solved. My fan was running full-time, but turning on and off for short bursts at a time accompanied by a small beeping noise. When pulled the panel, I could feel the “click” from what I assumed was the relay component on the board each time the fan power switched off. I replaced the relay ($12 on Amazon), which was a no go — problem still persisted. I then replaced the capacitor ($1.49 Fry’s Electronics) and my refrigerator just purrs now. My friend introduced me to a cool little tool, a “solder sucker”, a simple plastic syringe-like device with a spring loaded plunger that sucks the hot solder off the board during the removal process. Huge help. This project has been so satisfying!

    • Awesome, Ken. Congrats on the fix! And yes – a solder sucker is the perfect tool to make this fix easier. 🙂

  • André Morissette

    Thanks for the post – I had the same problem, but the only culprit was the capacitor.. a 35cents parts.. Whirlpool was telling me to change my fridge! fixed now and working as new.

    • Hi, André. That’s great to hear, but keep an eye on it. A lot of people of people have reported that just the capacitor change fixed their problem for a little while, but later had to also go back and change the relay. But I’ll keep my fingers crossed! 🙂

  • Pingback: How to Cheaply Fix a KitchenAid / Whirlpool Ice Maker by Just Replacing It - Steve Jenkins' Blog()

  • Robert Byrd

    I fixed my Whirlpool Gold refrigerator with the above instructions and it fixed it. I order way to many capacitors and relays and willing to fix other for $50 which not include shipping. If interested, email me byrd331[email protected]. Thanks.

  • Excellent information!

    I found your site while searching for reviews on CoreCentric Solutions.

    I’m going to contact them to discuss refurbishing two “relay control boards” in a Dacor double oven model MOV230S. The original part number for the relay boards was 72720, the new number for the refurbished boards is 101559. Sometimes the new number will be shown as 101559-C, meaning that the board is sold with a higher price because the original board must be returned for a refund of the “core price.

    I di buy a replacement 101559 board from eBay (actually, two of them) and found by serious study that there are two component changes: a small signal diode (D17) was changed to a 223K ohm resistor and a bypass capacitor (C56) was removed.

    The other change was an update to the operating firmware on one of the two microcontrollers (U7) on the relay board.

    (I appears that the change to the diode (to a resistor) and the capacitor removal is due to the Dacor relay control board designers re-thinking the method to control the “base” current to a small transistor controlling a test circuit which confirms the door interlock mechanism.)

    I can change the diode to a resistor is easy for me. It’s a small surface mount device, but I have no problem doing such fine desoldering/soldering work as “I’m in the business”. Removal of the surface mount capacitor is just a s easy for me. (I emphatically do not recommend this work be performed by anyone without significant experience working on such miniature components.)

    It is the reprogramming of the flash memory in the microcontroller that will require the help of CoreCentric. Since I do not know if I can read the memory of the “new” refurbished relay boards due to the possibility that the program is secured via the microcontrollers own internal features. I have not even tried to read the microcontroller’s memory because my own products use a similar secure memory programming method. I figure that I will simply let CoreCentric do the work…if they can unconditionally tell me that they will update the firmware, not just update the components.

    I know for certain that there are no defective capacitors, relays, resistors, etc. on the relay board.

    I should mention that the problem with the oven is that after starting the self-cleaning program (for either the upper or lower oven) the oven begins the self-cleaning program until the temperature reaches the maximum “burn off” level. At that moment the program checks the door latch mechanism and reports a non-existing fault.

    The replacement resistor costs $0.20. Removal of the unneeded capacitor costs…well..$0.00. And if CoreCentric does in fact, update the firmware for the “U7” microprocessor from version “1001” to version “1003”, I will actually spend the $109/board to do the update. Doing so will give me two extra boards for the future, or maybe I’ll sell them on eBay.

    I’ll report back later as to what I ended up doing.

    • I meant to type a “22K ohm resistor”, not a “223K ohm”. Sorry!

  • Tunc

    Thanks Steve. In my case just replacing capacitor worked. I was pretty sure there was no issue with the relays (well at least not yet!) because the refrigerator and freezer were cooling just fine. The power supply kept cycling on an off (you can tell because the readout display would go on and off and you would hear a pinging sound as the power supply restarted continuously).
    I wish I could find a 50V capacitor though instead of 35V, it would probably last longer.

    The customer care at Whirlpool is unbelievable. The excuse that they can no longer build this relatively simple controller board is just unacceptable. They chose to not even try.

  • Fan was stopping, then immediately re-starting. Hadn’t found your blog yet, so, through research (and a $25 service call), found out I needed a new board. I actually found 2307028 for around $92 and ordered it. My service guy said he would put it in for another $95. Hmm – $180 to fix a fridge (when some sites showed the control board to be $800!!)…not too bad. But then I really started poking around – AND FOUND THIS BLOG!! YES!! Bought the capacitor, bought the relay, got my tech guy standing by, unplugged the fridge, took out the board, took it to the tech guy (he de-soldered and re-soldered), put the board back in, plugged it in, waited 10 min, and sure enough….works just like new. With proper planning, the entire fridge was unplugged less than 2 hrs.

    I cancelled the order from Sears PartsDirect, so I don’t know how long it would have taken them to ship the part. I really don’t even know if they had the part. But I like this solution better.

    Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Steve. I live for this stuff, and you’re work on this really helped me out!

    • Nice, Mark. I love these success stories! 🙂 2 hour downtime is impressive!

  • Nate

    I know it has been a while since this was posted, but I just wanted to say thanks for putting this together. I had never even soldered anything before, but this inspired to buy a cute little training kit to practice and with the detail here I knew what to expect. It worked. Probably not a great idea to have your second soldering job (after the flashing light and siren circuit board in the training kit) be an appliance with the cost of a mistake so high. Oh well. Worked out in the end.

  • Raso

    Thanks for posting this. My parents builtin KitchenAid was suffering similar problems – fridge would not cool (freezer side was fine) and display in fridge would flicker and beep. At first I was going order a new display then I stumbled across your post.

    I went to the local electronics supply and got a 95 cent capacitor, popped the board out and on the kitchen table on a cutting board soldered the new cap in (all the relays seemed fine, fans worked). Popped the board back and it came back to life.

    All in all I spent $30 – I had to buy a mini ratchet set cause the board is tucked away on the top fridge, and a soldering iron – couldn’t find mine from 9th grade electronics class 20 years ago.

    My father in law, who is a retired electronics engineer and worked for the Canadian Standards Association testing fridges for years, could not or more likely would not believe that one simple capacitor could cause so many people so many problems.

    Thanks Again

    • Thanks for posting your success story, Raso! I know… crazy that a simple cap is the root of all this.

  • Scott Patton

    I am having the opposite problem with my kitchenaide KSCS25FTMS02. The compressor fan in the back runs then switches off and then right back on again. I never turns off which makes me think the compressor is not turning off. Both compartments seem to be cooling fine and I did just remove a ton of dust from the coils thinking that would solve the issue but it didn’t. And sometimes I hear a little beep when the fan cycles on and off all the time.

    Does this sound like it could be a control board issue of a compressor issue?

    • Yes – if you’re hearing a beep, I would definitely try this fix.

  • Chand

    Hi Steve, I changed both the capacitor and relay. The fan started working but the compressor doesn’t seems to start. fridge is not cooling. How do I confirm whether the compressor is working? Rthanks

    • Hmm… the compressor is the noisy part (not a fan noise). If that’s not working, it could have failed… and will need to be replaced by a professional. 🙁

  • Elton

    Hi Steve,
    Thanks so much for this great article. My refrigerator stopped cooling and I found your article. My condenser fan was not running. I check and it is getting 0 volts so I put a fan similar to yours blowing across the compressor and coils. Voila the temps in the frig and freezer return to normal. It’s been 24 hours and I seems as though the compressor never turns off. It’s slightly warm and has a slight vibration. I leave the freezer door open for a minute and the compressor does kick into a higher gear and gets things back to normal. Do you think this is normal or something that will be fixed when I install the new parts, which I have ordered?

    • I think this parts have a good chance of fixing your issue! Please let us know if they do.

  • Miguel

    Hi Steve.
    I am running with the same issue. 7 year KitchenAid fridge not cooling down. Called service and I was told the control board is busted and they dont support it anymore. I found your blog and interested in getting the board fix. Does anybody know if CoreCentric Solutions are still fixing the board? I see several people saying that the board was sent back to them not repair. Are the Ebay sources reliable to get this done? I am not capable to do it myself so willing to pay the cost and get it done ASAP.

    • Gary Brown

      I recently sent a board to Florida, after two try’s, it was worse. I then sent the board to Core Centric. They turned it around in two days, working perfect for two months. They also warranty their work for six months. Their site lets you put your model number in, prices it out etc. I highly recommend Core Centric!

      • Miguel

        Hi! Today I received the board from Core Centric. I installed it in my KitchenAid and restarted it. It seems like the fan and compressor started to work but after a few minutes the compressor stopped. I tried to restart the refrigerator a few times and it seems that it does the same thing. Compressor and fan start working and after a minute or so the compresor stops. The temperature inside the refrigerator after 8 hours has not changed, it still says 70degrees. Any suggestions?

  • Steve- you have saved my sanity! I was starting to hear the beeping sound that was coming from the back of my fridge in my sleep!
    Parts replaced, fridge running quietly. Thank you. Thank you.
    I’m going to have to go check your blog to see if you can help me with the other broken things I have around the house!

  • CEC

    Steve — I have a Kitchenaid built-in model (KSSS) and am having troubling issues mainly with the freezer not keeping temps — it does then doesn’t and on and on. The control board beeps periodically. I ran the diagnostics and everything checks out fine. The evaporator and condenser fans are running. I suspect that the issue is with the control board and I have found a local person who can solder and desolder parts for me. My issue is knowing which parts are bad if you don’t see any obvious bulging, etc..

    How did you know which parts to replace? Sending the board away means the company can test the components to see which ones are bad but Is there a way for us to do that? Would we need a schematic? I have all of the paperwork from the “secret compartment” and the manuals, but there isn’t a typical board “schematic” that I can see. I don’t think that replacing the parts that you did would fix my issues, as yours was fan related and my fan is running.

    Thanks so much for this excellent blog!

    • Hi, CEC. As I mentioned in the article, I figured out which parts to replace by looking at before/after photos that I took. I’d go ahead and take a first stab with the capacitor and the relay, since about 99% of those who’ve commented here report that does the trick. It’s a cheap first step, and if it doesn’t work, then you can move on to more expensive ones. 🙂

  • whistlepigger

    Another immense THANK YOU to add to your list. My kitchenaide door jamb was burning up – and in my first pass at a diagnosis, I replaced the fan – but the problem persisted. Then I found your post and replaced the cap and fan relay as you suggested. Fridge has been working fine for a week now.

    I ended up buying parts from Mouser – because all the Amazon time estimates for delivery were >30 days. Also, i bought a coil brush – but it’s so large that it doesn’t really get between the coils. I’l just have to remember to do more frequent vacuum cleanings.

    Thanks again.

  • Jake L Eiser

    Hi Steve, I frequent repair blogs and have yet to see one as superb as yours. I was searching for info on this part and your blog came up on the top of the list. a friend of mine has a similar problem. His model is included in your list (ksbs25inss00) but instead of the cond fan making trouble, i can hear that the evap fan is coming on and off every few seconds. my question to you is, which relay controls the evap fan? and does it pay to do both? and do i need to replace any other caps other than the one you indicated or that one controls the evap as well. If he sends it in to core centric are they going to know which relay to change. should i request them to do all of them once he’s paying $120 for it? I personally do not have any experience with soldering and would gain from a blog by you showing it step by step. It seems that my friend has a very expensive model and had a warranty company send down a repair tech 3 times already and they condemned the fridge. First they diagnosed a fan. then when that didn’t do the trick they said it must be the control. I don’t know which control they tried changing but i suspect the jazz board control and not the main control. when that didn’t help, they said there must be a wire shorting and advised customer to replace the fridge. i beg your apology if this question is dealt with in the Q&A’s already since i couldn’t go thru them all. Thanks a mil.

    • Hi, Jake. CoreCentric will generally test the board (including the relays) to see which ones are faulty. If a different relay is the cause of the issue, they should find and replace it.

  • cece2150

    i Steve,I cant believe you are so kind with your advice and unbelievably thorough!!!

    I have a question about our kitchenaid side by side 48″ built in fridge with water/dispenser. KSSc48QMs01

    We sent the main board to circuit repair company and got it repaired (yes, the capacitor was fixed judging from the soldering marks.) The fridge was left on to cool overnight and no change in temp. The temp in the freezer and fridge read -21 and 1 degrees celsius and it definitely is not accurate. The OVER temp has been on but i imagine it is bc the fridge is not cooled down …the repair company stated that they test these board before returning to sender in an appliance to make sure it is working…sounds like the fan is working in our fridge but not cooling. Any thots to help with this mystery. Your guidance would be very helpful.

    Thanking you in advance

  • David Brock

    This also fixed my same fridge issue. However, the motor on the ice dispenser does not work either (it only makes clicking sounds up near the region of the motherboard). It makes ice fine but the dispenser/crusher motor does not work. I suspect a power surge likely knocked out both the fridge fan and the motor on the ice dispenser. Any idea what capacitor, relay, etc may be the culprit behind the ice motor?

    • Hmmm, that could be a failed relay on the board, too… but I’m not certain. If it’s making ice, then my ice maker article ( won’t help. It’s for a dead ice maker motor. But clicking is often a sign on a relay issue, so if I were you, I’d probably just replace all the relays on that board and call it a day! 🙂

    • David Seidman

      I am having the same problem with my ice dispenser. Were you able to find a fix?

        • David Seidman

          Hi Steve,

          Thanks for the fast reply. I have a KitchenAid Refrigerator Model KSSC42QTS00
          Fortunately my ice maker is working, however, the dispenser won’t activate the auger motor or the flapper motor.
          The light comes on when the dispenser is pressed so some connection exits. I tried replacing the dispenser actuator but that didn’t work. It all started when the main board capacitor went bad and the fridge was beeping etc. The capacitor change fixed the fridge but not the dispenser. I am now awaiting the relays to try to change them out and see if that helps. Any other thoughts. Thanks, Dave

          • Ahh… THAT kind of not working. 🙂 I’ve heard of that happening, and have to think that yes, there’s a relay that controls the dispenser when the switch is hit. If the light comes on, the switch is working. I think you’re on the right track with the relay idea.

          • Kyle McBride

            I had a failed ice dispenser motor, caused by melted ice and water getting inside to the ice dispenser auger motor and corroding the wiring harness to the motor. I opened it up (inside the freezer door under the dispenser) and found the motor in a block of ice. Had to replace the motor and create a makeshift connector since they don’t sell the harness anywhere. With a new motor (about $100) and new wiring, the augur works and ice dispenses fine now.

          • Well played! 🙂

  • Bill Brock

    Thanks for a great tutorial. I’m looking at a condition where the fan remains “ON” constantly. Compressor cycles on and off normally. Does anybody know if there is any other logic tied into the fan relay that would cause this condition?

    • Hi, Bill. I’ve actually heard of others with this problem who replaced the two items I suggest (capacitor and relay) and the problem goes away!

      • Bill Brock

        I’ve ordered the parts. We’ll see what happens.


        • Please come back and let us know! 🙂

          • Bill Brock

            Replaced the cap and relay in question. The symptom did not change. The condenser fan shuts off during the defrost cycle, but still runs even when the compressor is off. That suggests to me that the relay is working. I’d love to find a schematic/logic diagram for the control board to determine if there is anything else that controls the fan.

          • Well, at least you now have a more reliable cap and relay (which are the two most likely parts to fail in the future). I doubt a separate relay would be used to control that same fan, which leads me to believe that it COULD be a problem with an integrated circuit on board… and that’s bad news. As a last ditch effort I might try swapping out the other relays, but beyond that the “user servicable” parts run dry. 🙁 But if you do happen to come across any schematic, please let me know and I’ll post it here.

          • Bill Brock

            Yea. it looks like the big chip is a microprocessor. So, to troubleshoot this you will need a program listing and knowledge of God knows what programming language. The fan uses very little current. So I’ll deal with that and hope that I can get a few more years out of an otherwise well performing refrigerator. Gees, I’m thinking if I could get the board program logic, I could replace it with an Arduino based board. Sounds like there’s a market for a replacement. Anybody got that info?

          • I’d love for that to be possible, but I doubt the logic is anywhere public. 🙁

  • Greg

    Thanks so much for posting this – My Kitchenaid KSSC48FMS02 built in refrigerator was cycling the evap fan on and off and the refrigerator side was not getting cool. After spending some time researching this, I guessed that I had a bad control board and learned that it was no longer available to purchase (thx Kitchenaid for the great (actually horrible)customer support!) My $6000+ refrigerator was useless and it was going to cost me $500 or more to buy a replacement board from ebay.

    I was lucky enough to find this blog, and replaced the capacitor and relay on my board. Interestingly enough, the relays on my board are all the OMRON style – My refrigerator was built in 2006. Anyway, so far so good – I spent around $80 for a new eval fan and blade and another $8.00 or so for a new capacitor and relay and now everything seems to be working. Thanks again for this blog!

    • Great to hear. Congrats on the successful fix, Greg!

  • Miguel

    HI Steve.
    My Kitchenaid built-in refrigerator stopped working. The repairman came and told me the board was busted and there was nothing that he could do. After finding your page on the internet I sent the board to CoreCentric Solutions. I came back but after installing the refrigerator didn’t work. The fan would start but the compressor will stop working after a few seconds.
    I sent the board back to be checked again and I was told the board was working properly. Installed it again and I ended up in the same place. I am not sure what to do. Do you think that the compressor could be busted? Could I check something else before giving up? thanks

    • Hi, Miguel. I hate spending money on repair guys, but it might be worth having someone test the compressor now that the board is repaired.

  • Joe

    Hi Steve- thanks for the tips for fixing the board- it worked. However, now it won’t defrost- the heating wire has continuity, and I replaced the defrost thermostat. Since this model ( Kenmore 106.44433601) doesn’t have a timer, it seems narrowed to the board. Any suggestions what to replace on the infamous control board?
    Kailua, HI

    • Hi, Joe. Sorry, I’m no help there — my research and experience is limited to the capacitor and relay I replaced. However, if that were happening to me, I’ll roll the dice and just replace the other relays, hoping that one of them controls the defrost function. Probably a cheaper first step than calling a tech!

  • Mike Wren

    Thanks for putting up this blog. My Kitchen Aid fridge had exactly the same problem with the overheating mullion and replacing the capacitor and the relay fixed it. It’s been working OK for 2 weeks now. Note that you can order the replacement board from Sears for only $91.42 (versus the Amazon price of $1600!). However, although the Sears website stated the part was in stock it could only be ordered by standard delivery (not priority or expedited). I waited 2 weeks before contacting Sears by phone asking where it was (it showed as “In Process” all the time) and I was told I wasn’t allowed to order it and they were canceling the order and crediting my credit card. I will never be using Sears again.

    • Sorry to hear that, Mike. I’m not surprised, tho. I’ve heard that same result with people ordering discontinued parts from Sears. Glad you were able to easily fix it on your own!

  • Stephen Billington

    Hi – What a great blog. I think I have the exact problem with the control board needing a couple of new parts as you brilliantly show. I also installed a new condensor fan (before reading yor post) and it also wouldn’t turn on. Actually it has come on twice, but won’t stay on when needed and so the condensor keeps overheating and I end up needing to point an external fan on it to cool it down. Everything you described was just like what I experienced so I went ahead and ordered the parts you suggested, but foolishly I didn’t actaully inspect the control board first. It looks like the capacitor I need is a different size. I think that’s it on the lower right corner, it’s bigger than the one I ordered from your list. ALSO – what is the yellow thing?! Your control board doesn’t even have that so I guess I have an altogether different design. You inspired me to go ahead and give the soldering a try but maybe now I have reached my DIY limit!

    My fridge is KitchenAid KSCS25INSS00, built in 2004. Thanks for any thoughts you may have.

    • Hi, Stephen. Let’s push your limit JUST a bit further. 😉 Looks like you’ve got an older / slightly different board version, but I still believe you can fix it yourself with the same process. Those relays are all in the right position, and look to be the same ones as my board. And while your capacitor appears bigger, what’s important is the capacitance rating. Read on the side of that capacitor to get the size (will be shown next to uF) and voltage (probably 35V). If both are the same as the one you bought (probably 220uF and 35V), then it’s OK to install as long as the leads line up properly. If not, then just order a matching one (it won’t be expensive). Also, those yellow things are the plastic that are insulating what are copper bits of the power supply. I wouldn’t worry about them. If your unit is powering up, they’re fine. 🙂 You CAN do it! 🙂

      • Stephen Billington

        Yes exactly — I found out that my control board is an earlier model. Well I actually switched out the Omron unit but left the capacitor as is (just hours before your reply) and the fan started right up after putting it all back together. The temp inside freezer and frige is good, and the wall in between is keeping cool as well. So hey, that was my first ever soldering job and it seems ok for now. The surge protector that you suggest – would that specifically protect the capacitor and/or relays? Or the entire circuit board?

        The yellow plastic looks a bit bulgy to me but I don’t really know what to compare it to other than the defrost thermostat (obviously a very different componant) which I successfully replaced last year. It was bulged out and somehow I figured out how to do all that after the repair guy back then wanted to replace the entire control board for the frost build up problem in the freezer –for $800.

        Hats off to you Steve for your generosity to me and to many others on this!

        • Well awesome! Glad it worked! And the surge protected I recommend protects your entire fridge. Congrats on getting things working again! 🙂 If it fails again, however, I’d seriously consider swapping that capacitor. Maybe your version is stronger, but on my style board, it’s a serious weak link.

  • Michelle Clay

    Sears Direct now has this part available. New and reconditioned for those of you who don’t want to attempt to repair it yourself. I just ordered mine today and am so relieved that I didn’t just take the repairman’s word for it but checked for myself! I was told I needed to just go buy a new frig. Whirlpool wouldn’t do anything for me either. I am very disappointed in their customer service!!

    • Michelle: I hope that I’m wrong, but I think you’ll find that Sears will call or email you soon to inform you that they’re cancelling your order… because they don’t REALLY have them. I haven’t found anywhere that actually fulfills the order.

    • John F

      Did you ever receive your board from Sears? I have one on order for about a week now and all it says is it’s backordered.

      • I’d wager Michelle didn’t, and I don’t think you will, either. They don’t have these boards. But you can totally fix it yourself! 🙂

  • Great job, Shane!

  • Robert Falco

    Steve, your solution worked like a charm. One note to add–we cleaned out our sidexside and when we fixed the board, the fridge had trouble achieving the correct temp. Apparently an empty fridge is not a good thing. A friend recommended filling a couple of glasses with water and placing them in the freezer to generate a load. This allowed the freezer to regulate the temp. Thanks again for your beautiful blog–saved us at least $400, easy!! God bless, Rob

    • That’s fantastic, Robert! And you make a great point. Fridge’s work best when they have stuff in them vs. being empty.

  • Kyle McBride

    Thanks for this blog post – my circuit board had the same capacitor bulging at the top…I was able to replace the capacitor and relay but the mullion strip is still very warm/hot to the touch (about 90-100 degr). Is that normal? The symptom is that the ice bucket I believe is getting some of that warmth and the ice is melting and dripping water down the dispenser chute. Back wall of freezer is 0 deg., around the ice bucket is 40 deg. I’d like to solve the problem. Any thoughts?

    • Kyle McBride

      condenser was running non stop all day, but now stopped. Perhaps door strip will cool off. The other contributing factor to melting ice I discovered is the ice chute flap isn’t closing all the way and temp reads about 50 deg. inside the chute compared to about 30 deg when I hold the flap closed tightly. Guess I’ll replace the flap and hoping all will be well now.

      Thanks again for your awesome article, thanks for letting me get off topic here.

  • Fred Hoffman

    Hi great post.
    Maybe you can suggest a solution for me-I had had my frige frost up 2x in 10 days. SOOOO i decided op trouble shoot & shot myself in the foot so to speak. I found the service & wiring sheet & tried to ru through the test modes. i had already let freezer warm up so defrost heaterf bi metal was open tried to bypass it to test heating element but misunderstood wrlpl instr. & jumped wrong brown & pink wires-in freezer rather than behind user control panel in frig side. popped circuit breaker and something inside frig no I need to figure out which parts burned up. bi-metal is good and heater is good put it in another freezer & checked continuity on heater all good. BUT indicators in control interface now sayn j & j. don’t know if prob. is in user interface or main board. Do u hav idea how 2 sort it all out??

  • Thanks for the info, Drew! I’ve reworded to make that more clear. And happy this fix worked for you!

  • That’s great, Bill! Congrats on the successful DIY fix! 🙂

  • Jimm Weey

    Mr. Steve Jenkins, you are a wonderful person to present this DoItYourself so clearly and unselfishly. When my $7000 Kitchen-Aid refrigerator became defective (unceasing intermittent running of the compressor fan and poor cooling), I did exactly what you suggested. I had to wait about 4 weeks to get all the tools and electronic parts; in the meantime, I bought 2 compact refrigerators for under $300 which I’m going to keep using even when my big K-A refrigerator works again. It took me only about 1/2 hour to repair the PCB and another 1/2 hour to install the PCB, close up everything, and power up the big refrigerator. The results were beautiful!!! and exciting!!!

    The symptoms of defect were gone and the compressor and fan purred smoothly. The next day, the freezer reached a steady 0 and the refrigerator reached 37 degrees F as previously set, and the compressor purring paused; the only sound was the faint whirling of the fan circulating cold air from the freezer through the refrigerator.

    It is now 2-1/2 days since the DIY repair, and everything is working fine!!!!
    I’m using a lot of exclamation marks because I want to shout to the world what a wonderful experience I have had with your help.

    You can see all 3 refrigerators in the attached picture.

    P.S. Manufacturers of expensive refrigerators should be required by law to install a power line suppressor in every unit. As a matter of fact, I think ALL manufacturers of expensive (over $200? $500?) electrical equipment ought to be required by law to add an appropriate power surge suppressor!

    • That’s awesome, Jimm. Bummer you had to wait 4 weeks, but hope it was all worth it when your self-fixed appliance purred back to life. 🙂

  • Cesar

    Hi Steve. So glad I found your post! My Whirlpool GC3SHEXNS00 refrigerator went out. The fan was not working and was getting the beeping also every 2 minutes or so. I bought and replaced the cap and the relay. I was ecstatic when I plugged everything back in and the fan started working! The issue I am having now is that the temperature for the freezer and the fridge is constantly at 70 degrees. If I turn on the Quick Cool feature on, it drops the freezer temperature to -6 and the fridge temperature to 34. It has not, however, “reset” itself the 0 degree temp for the freezer and 37 degree temp for the fridge side as it should be “normally” running. If I disable the Quick Cool feature the temps jump back up to 70 degrees respectively and stay there.
    I ran the diagnostics (holding the Temp Mode button and the Power On/Off button together for 3 seconds) and now its apparently telling me that there are shorts with the fridge and freezer thermistors. Do you think it could be a cold solder joint somewhere or is this another problem? Anybody else report this problem? Thanks so much for your help. If I can get over this little problem I will be so happy to have fixed my fridge, with your help of course, for $12.45. 🙂 Thanks again for the info.

  • Gia Pagani

    My KitchenAid built in 48″ side by side fridge (bought in 2007) suddenly stopped cooling the fridge section (freezer was fine) just as described here. I was without a fridge for over four weeks while I went round and round with a KitchenAid recommended repair tech. First a week to wait for him to come out, then two weeks to wait while he ordered a new board, then another week to wait for him to come out and try to install it. Guess what it didn’t fit at which point he said I could buy a new fridge or he could try and find someone to repair the board for over $500 and another estimated four weeks without a fridge. Are you kidding me??? I have three kids and live in California, it’s over 100 degrees most days. That’s when, after a 15 minute internet research excursion I found this! You saved my life! Within three days and a few dollars I have a fridge that is humming along like new! Replaced the capacitor and relay just like you described. You are a life saver! Thank you so much!

  • Mitch

    Thank you Steve Jenkins for the info on fixing the control board worked like a charm. you are the best 🙂

  • John F

    Steve, I posted a reply below. I ordered the board as a backup if they have it. Sears said in an online chat I had with them that a “tech” would have to order it but the website let me place the order anyway. I too doubt I will get one. I have a ksso48fmx built in. I bought it used recently and thought it was fine. But I noticed the temps in the freezer are occasionally very low compared to the 5 degrees I have it at and the fridge seems to go warmer than it is supposed to. I had noticed that the condenser fan was always running and the compressor seemed to cycle correctly. So I popped in the capacitor and the relay and it seems as though the fan now corresponds to the same cycle as the compressor. I am still having an issue with the fridge being too warm. I am wondering if I should have done all 5 relays? I also noticed my control panel in the fridge always has the same temp readings on it, the ones I set it at. Occasionally the freezer readout says what it is in the freezer (-5 or -10, etc.) but the fridge side never says anything but the 35 I have it on. Is it supposed to show the current temp in the fridge and freezer or my settings? I have been watching them with a fridge thermometer. Also if anyone has the details on how to run the diagnostics on a model similar to this one that would be greatly appreciated. My schematic sheet is missing. Thanks in advance.

  • Mike McGregor

    Your post has helped a lot. An FYI – been rebuilding boards on major appliances for 40+ years. The most common failure we are seeing is no evaporator fan – clicking noises – display dim or blinking – especially on the KABI (Big built in side by sides) If you use this capacitor it will last roughly 100 times as long – – 10,000 hour Panasonic – EEU-EB1J221 Mouser # 667-EEU-EB1J221 (taller higher voltage and yes it will fit) – – and G5Q-14-EU12DC relay (better version Mousers # is 653-G5Q-14-EU12DC – higher MTBF and more board protection + cheaper) Mouser has no minimum order and they are VERY fast at shipping. Ship costs about the lowest in the industry. – – try them out? I do not work for Mouser BTW ! Don’t bother with the surge protector – it will not help for board damage from transients.

  • Joe

    Thank you for sharing the solution and providing the detailed info. I followed your instructions and the problem with my 7-year old kitchen aid fridge is now resolved. You’ve done an outstanding job in providing a detailed step-by-step procedure. Next time I have a problem, I will check you site for possible solution.
    Again Thank you.


  • Dave Mosbach

    I ordered the parts you suggested. Haven’t received as yet. The fridge cools and freezes but the interior lights don’t come on and lights on the control panel won’t stay on. I can’t tell what the temp is. The ice maker does not work. A repairman said it’s the main control board but he won’t take the responsibility to get the board repaired. Do you think when I replace these two parts it will solve all the problems?

    • Hi Dave. Yes, there’s a good chance that the new capacitor will fix those issues. Swapping out the relay that controls the compressor is still recommended, as long as you’ve got the board and soldering iron out. 🙂

      • Dave Mosbach

        Thanks Steve. I’ll let you know.

  • Ken

    I am having similar issues with my 48″ Kitchenaid side-by-side. Paid $5,474 for it in 2007. The beeping noise and the evaporator fan cuts on and then off about every 10 seconds. The freezer is cold and is making ice. Before I found your wonderful step-by-step fix, I called Kitchenaid and they referred out a factory authorized repair man. Took him about 7 minutes to diagnose. He called Kitchenaid for the control board and of course they don’t have it.

    I sent him on his way after paying him $85 for a 10 minute service call.

    The Kitchenaid repair guy said that my evaporator motor likely caused the problem. He said that when the evaporator motor is failing it often times creates a load on the 12V circuit and causes the control board to fail. I already ordered all of the parts you suggested….capacitor AND relay.

    QUESTION for you Steve: Have you ever heard of the evaporator more causing the control board to fail? Should I preemptively replace the evaporator motor?

    Thank you in advance for you help and for making this step-by-step instructional.

    Valencia, CA

    • Hi, Ken. I haven’t heard of that, but I suppose it’s possible. But for the price of the parts and simplicity of the fix, I’d start with the cap and relay and see how that affects things. Let us know how it turns out!

      • Ken

        Thank you Steve! Parts will arrive Wednesday. I will update you after installation is complete….Fingers crossed!

  • Ivan

    Thank you for this detailed post. For me, the issue was the control board resetting like this: I have a Kitchenaid 48″ built-in KSSC48QMS03. The 220 uF cap was bulging. Replacing it fixed my problem. I didn’t have a fan issue so I didn’t touch the relay. Thanks again – you saved me money and time!

  • Hi, Ken. The capacitor itself should fix your issue (yes, the one in the same location). The relay I recommend replacing is for the fan, but it’s prone to failure, so best to replace it at the same time. Let us know how it works out!

  • That’s great, Pat. Congrats on a successful fix!

  • YES! That’s awesome, Ken. Great job! That’s a very generous offer, but seriously… comments like this are all the thanks I need. I love reading them, and yours made me laugh, too. 🙂 Enjoy your good-as-new fridge! 🙂

  • Craig Spery

    Hi Steve,

    Thanks for providing the information on how to bring this refrigerator back to life. It worked! I even learned a new skill…desoldering.

    Appreciate it, Craig

  • Farooq Mo

    I had the same problem with my whirlpool. My refrigerator is cooling just fine now, but my freezer is not maintaining recommended setting of 0•F. Do you know what the problem is?

  • Farooq Mo

    I replaced both parts per your instructions. After 2 weeks my Whirelpool quit working again. Any help will be appreciated.

    • Ah – that answers my previous question then. It’s possible that your condenser motor is shot, too. 🙁

      • Farooq Mo

        Steve, FYI: I have replaced capacitor and Relay. Today my refrigerator was working fine and was at 37 F, but the freezer temperature went up and ice started to melt and started to leak on the floor. I unplugged everything and just got home and all is well. Temperature for both refrigerator and freezer are normal. Please let me know what your thoughts are. Thanks buddy!

        • Any chance the freezer door wasn’t closed all the way? Beyond that, I don’t know what the problem could be!

          • Farooq Mo

            Update: it cools just fine and hold correct temperature now. I’ve made sure kids are closing doors properly. Every morning when I get up and open the freezer door, I see ice in the lower section of the freezer. Please view picture.

  • Karl

    Forgive my long-winded story…but it is a story of praise and thanks! I too suffered the W10219463 Control Board failure. Fortunately (or so I thought) I have a Home Warranty, as I am not in the least but handy. The repairman that the Warranty company brought over insisted that the only thing wrong with the unit was that the condenser coils needed vacuumed, and that was not covered by Warranty. He charged me $300…which I have learned is a ridiculously high amount…he broke the fan in the process (which Warranty did replace) and said it was cured. It admittedly did seem to cool a smidge better for a few days, but the constant chirping and cycling remained…and it often had temp spikes to the 50s.

    So I started googling and came upon your excellent DIY article. It nailed the symptoms and diagnosis. I called the Home Warranty company again, and requested they send a technician from a different company as the Fridge was still not working. They agreed, and this technician was much more dialed in. I told him the exact problem I suspected and even told him he would likely find a blown capacitor on the control board. He stated that these fridges had known issues with the board and was aware they were no longer made. He pulled the panel and, sure enough, the capacitor was blown. He said he would get with the Warranty company and have it shipped off for repair.

    Two weeks later, I contacted my Warranty company to inquire what was taking so long, and they responded “They don’t make the part anymore and it is too expensive to fix, so we are just going to give you a check for $1100 to go towards the purchase of a new refrigerator.” Great….but I then still need to cough up several thousand dollars more to buy a new built-in.

    So I called the repair technician and asked if he still had the control board. He said he did, and was kind enough to bring it back over. I then ordered the capacitor from amazon for a couple of bucks, and had a buddy who is quite handy replace and re-solder the new capacitor.

    So the last step was to put everything back in place. Since the technician did the removal, I was at a loss as to how to put things back together. You have some amazing screen shots that help and this video also helps if you just do the steps in reverse

    Unfortunately, neither the video or the article explain where the green ground wire originated and ends…do you remember? It was just left in there loose by the technician. I surmise that one end it screwed into the top plate to ground, but no clue where it goes on the other end??

    Oh well…I figured grounding is important, but perhaps not necessary to see if the fridge now works. So I fired the sucker up. No chirping and 12 hours later it is at a sustainable cool temperature!!!!!

    Amazing. I likely would have already shelled out another 8K for a new built-in if it wasn’t for your article. Instead, despite getting ripped off of $300 for a condenser coil cleaning, I got $1000 to replace my now wonderfully working refrigerator. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you!

    I didn’t replace the relay, but do feel that if that is needed, I now know what to do.

    My only remaining question is the issue of that darn green ground wire…any recollection of where that thing goes, before I close the unit back up??

    Thanks again so much…by the looks of all of the comments, I suspect you have single-handedly saved the online community thousands upon thousands of dollars.

    • That’s awesome, Karl. Congrats — that’s the best type of success story: one where you end up with money in your pocket! 🙂

      • Oh, the green ground wire. As I recall. there’s a screw hole on the fridge chassis — just wire the ground wire to the metal frame of the fridge and you’re good to go. If you can’t find the screw hole (I promise it’s there), just make a new one. It will be within reach of the green wire’s length.

  • Hi, Marco. Hmm… that could actually still just be the capacitor causing those issues. I’d try the easy fixes first before messing with the inverter.

  • Marco

    Hi Steve is me again…the soap opera goes on…I did rebuilt the mother board for 99 dollars plus taxes and they send it back revised and tested saying that the failure was on the DC…of the mother board….which I don’t know whats that.. I did put all back perfectly and turned the refrigerator on….again the same failure persists…The led lights on for 3 seconds and bye… nothing turned on except the interior lights and the fan in the bottom of the fridge…
    Next I went on to check the OHMS of the compressor which is not shorted inside;… all windings measured from 6.9 to 7.0…all three.
    Some people a saw in YOUTUBE said is ok and others said is a bad compressor…

    I took the inverter out and noticed a very light brown colour in one of the sides, the one we normally don’t see very easily…

    I am now at crossroads since I have no idea if it is the inverter or the compressor…grrrrr
    I did vacuum all the coils and they are perfect… can you give light please Thanks a lot for your prior answer…

    The model is KSSC42QMS00 side by side Kitchen Aid with all up top…

    • If they’re saying it’s a DC (direct current) failure, then my GUESS is that the inverter is bad (the brown coloring might be related, or might not). Seems like it’s not able to generate enough current for a long enough time to keep things going. I’d try to find a replacement inverter and swap it out.

  • Nice! 🙂

  • Jeff Belliveau

    I must say this is the best tidbit of information I have come across. excellent photos, excellent description/explanations of all aspects. I do have one question that perhaps was answered already and overlooked on my part.
    I had a repair tech review my issue and he pinpointed the relay you have discussed exactly. He indicated the board needed to be replaced, and also indicated that when he performs this repair he replaced the fan motor as well as it is suspect for causing the relay to go. Is there any merit to that?
    I will be sourcing the capacitor, as mine as well CLEARLY looks faulty, and the relay as well.

    • HI, Jeff. If you swap the capacitor and relay and the fan works fine, don’t bother with it. It’s probably just something they up-sell as a standard procedure. 🙂

  • bobwalicki

    I found this site because of some recent issues with our KA KSCS25INSS01. The interior light to our fridge stopped working. Shortly thereafter, starting having troubles with temperature control – for example, things are freezing in the fridge and the freezer is running a bit warm. The mullion strip is also wicked hot. I pulled the fridge out of its ‘cubby’ and confirmed that the condensor fan is running but then also noticed terrible dust on the coils. I vacuumed those up real good and also put a small fan on the floor nearby and ordered some parts. Since vacuuming the temperature control looks better and the mullion strip is warm, not hot.

    But, I’ve still got the light out issue. Once the parts arrive I’ll take a deeper look and see what I find out. The light bulb inside the fridge is on a normal 120VAC, so it’s possible that I’ll be to identify a bad relay once I take the controller board out… We’ll see.

  • Hugh Gallagher

    Steven – I have Kitchenaid Refrigerator Model KSCS25INSS01. About 7 years old. Two interior top lights burned out – replaced them. Did not come on. Everything else was working fine. Like an idiot, I took a voltmeter to test the sockets – I must have touched something because I heard a loud “pop” like when old fashioned Christmas lights break. All lights, control panel, ice maker and water dispenser stopped working. Refrigerator keeps cooling fine.

    I was told by factory repair that the part number W10219463 control board was no longer available – new refrigerator is not in budget. I know I can remove the board, but have no confidence I can repair – didn’t work so well before.

    Does the loud “pop” that happened tell you anything? I would love to send it off for repair or buy a refurbished one but again don’t feel confident in how I should approach.

    Thanks, Hugh Gallagher ([email protected]) – Richmond Virginia

    • Hey, Hugh. Yeah… a “pop” is never good. 🙂 I’d follow the link to Concentric in my article, and see about sending the board to them. You probably fried something other than the two parts I recommend replacing… especially since it’s still cooling fine. I don’t know if there’s a separate fuse somewhere in the fridge for those components, but I’d also search for that.

      • Hugh Gallagher

        I thought it actually sounded like a fuse – heard those blow before. Where would you suggest I look? Would it be near the board in the back?

        • I’d try to look up some sort of schematic for your fridge. I’m not really a fridge expert, just a geek who persisted on this until figuring it out. 🙂 It’s possible something on the board itself “popped,” tho. I’d inspect it for anything charred.

      • Hugh Gallagher

        The Kitchenaide local service rep came and checked two boards in the front he said were fine – he then went on to say it had to be the board in the back. Was told today the board from them no longer exists.

        • Yes, the “board in the back” is the main control board. In most cases, I recommend trying this fix yourself. But since your symptoms are different, you might consider sending it to CoreCentric (link is in the article).

      • Hugh Gallagher

        he never checked the board in the back – for $89 I thought he’d be more thorough

  • Hugh Gallagher

    I did forget to say, thank you I think

  • I’d bet it a different relay that runs the evap fan vs. the compressor fan, but you can follow the same basic steps I did and swap them out on your board. Just match the capacitor and relays you need (or get slightly beefier ones) and just replace them on your board. There’s a good chance that will do the trick!

  • curt

    Steve, thanks for the excellent tutorial. I have a similar problem and wanted to get your opinion. We had a power surge and since then, the fan basically runs all the time. You can hear it click off, but then it clicks right back on. Everything else is working fine, fridge temp, freezer temp, ice maker, etc. I’m pretty sure it’s not only running when the compressor is.

    • Hi, Curt. Sorry to hear that. But this fix can’t hurt, and might just do the trick! Give it a go and tell us how it goes!

  • Marco

    Hi Steve, is Marco. Today was a celebration day in my house….I received the brand new Power Inverter I purchased in ebay for $145.00 and after installed, “BAMN” all ON and working perfectly. Thank you very much for your advice to what the problem was…and recommending the right move…
    Rebuilding the mother board where the DC was failing for $120, I basically fixed the Refrigerator for $265.00 not bad…Thank you again

    • That is GREAT news, Marco! Can you tell me what the part number of the inverter is? I’ll update the article to include that as another possible fix (when the problem is worse).

  • Marco

    The Power Inverter original number of a KSSC48QMS00 # is 2223385. The number that replaces that is: W10629033 Kenmore Refrigerator Compressor Inverter Box. However, you must understand that the Power inverter comes with another number stuck on as W10133449. As per Kitchen Aid’s parts expert they use different numbers when they make some upgrade internally. It means that any of these 2 numbers you purchase will fit the refrigerator, replacing the number 2223385. By the way when you buy in eBay you have these inverters in several prices. The cheapest ones are second hand sometimes; I missed one for 68.00 and another for 75.00 (I was confused about the numbers at that moment!!!)…I end up paying more but was new 145.00. If you buy from Sears Direct price is crazy like 275.00 and from Kitchen Aid even more!!! I hope this help you all…

  • LOL, dude. I laughed all the way through your reply and just read it to my wife. I’m glad the fix worked for you, and that you also figured out how to get the LED display working. Was that the $72 used one you got on eBay? Mind sharing the part number, so I can also include that in the article?

    Thanks and congrats again! 🙂

    • Steve Maurer

      But wait there’s more….. Fridge and freezer working 100% Sans ice maker…..

      Go figure….After I fired ‘er up Wednesday and all worked so well, and, being only three days until Canadian Thanksgiving, I was not about to mess with it or dinner for sixteen.

      Filled the ice bucket in the fridge with a cubed, 7-11 reasonable facsimile, which got us through the night…

      Dinner was on, even had the aircraft maintenance engineer poke his nose in the freezer section but to no avail….

      This morning, My wife wakes up and no lie…. says ” I dreamed we had ice.”

      Went downstairs to fix breakfast. Had some left over punch that would go good with brunch…. (Rhymes too… ) Opened the freezer for something and…… wait for it……

      WE HAVE ICE!!!

      I’m not asking any questions…..nor do I want to know..

      Only asking that my wife now dream about winning lottery numbers….

      The part number for the temperature controller inside the fridge

      2307037 – 2319756 – Whirlpool Refrigerator Control Box w/Board; C3-3

      All good….

      • LOL – DO NOT make eye contact with it!

        Just let it make ice… 🙂

  • I actually have a post on fixing the ice maker, too! Search for it in the upper right. 🙂

  • LOL. That’s awesome! 🙂

  • Nice, Yvette! Congratulations on a cheapo fix! 🙂

  • F. Lindberg

    Thank you for posting this! You covered detail in such a concise manner! I found myself riveted to ‘the process’ as you sleuthed your way through to the solution. Nicely done – you must be a teacher 😉

    • Thanks! No, not a teacher, but I did help pay for my MBA writing technical documentation. 🙂

  • KathyT

    Thank you soooo much! My barely 8-year-old 48″ Kitchenaid built-in fridge failed on us (fridge temp rising, freezer still worked). It came with the house that we bought. After calling out a Kitchenaid specialist, we learned that the control board needed to be replaced. Sounded simple enough. Unfortunately, the repair man called us back two days later to inform us that the part is no longer being made (as everyone else experienced). Our only option was to buy an entire new fridge???!!! After some online sleuthing I came across your website. Your details and photos of your process were incredibly helpful. We purchased the capacitor and relay as you described. Our only hope for labor was my dad – an electrical engineer Ph.D. who dug out his 35+ y.o. solder. He said getting the board out was the tougher part. Fixing the board with the right tools (including the solder remover that you recommended) was the easier part (given his background, I’m sure). You are a life saver (i.e., bank account saver) – it would have cost us $10K+ to replace the fridge. Of course, we were lucky to have my dad around too! Thank you!

    • That’s wonderful news, Kathy. Congrats to you (and your dad)! 🙂

  • Hooray! 🙂

  • Paulo

    I replaced the parts but now the fridge is tripping the gfci even when i have it off
    Any suggestions?

    • Hmm… sounds like you may have bridged something during soldering that’s causing a short. Double check all the soldering. My gut says something on the board that connects to the ground is causing the problem.

  • Awesome. It’s never wrong to replace parts in a preventative manner, especially when it’s easy and you have the parts exposed. Congrats on the fix!

  • Madan

    Hi Steve, You are blog is awesome. Very thankful to you. You saved $1500 bucks for me. As I was thinking I may had to purchase new refrigerator for thanks giving after my GC5SHEXNS05 died just before thanks giving, After little research online I thought overload /relay could be culprit but couldn’t figure out exact part to purchase, as all other blogs/videos talking about a external relay/overload capacitor part which was not present in this Whirlpool Gold model. By stroke of luck landed on your blog post after some research and all problems solved. Exactly followed your instructions and replaced bulged 220uF capacitor and bought replacement from Radio shack and Omtron 10A SPDT relay purchased online from
    And after replacing with these parts, refrigerator is work perfectly fine and it’s been 48 hours now and everything is back to normal as before.
    A Big thank you from bottom of my heart. You won a fan here!

  • Oleg

    Hi Steve,

    While trying to troubleshoot issue with lights in refrigerator I accidentally shorted yellow wire with the green (ground) on light socket by voltmeter probe. Refrigerator is working except lights, ice and water dispenser, and display.
    Looking for solutions to fix this issue before contacting Core Centric.
    Refrigerator model KSCS25INSS00
    Service and wiring sheet older revision 2223419T
    Main control board 2223443

    • Hi, Oleg. Yikes… it sounds like you blew something… but I’d have no idea where to start looking! 🙁

  • Ray Lopez

    So far so good with your tips. Anyone with the mechanical abilities can accomplish this repair. Going on 2 hours and no cycling and relay clicking of the fan. I thank you so much for sharing your experience.

  • Dave

    Thank you for this great post. I installed a new fan and it still did not work so was pricing a new fridge ($2,500) when I found your post. My local Radio Shack has the capacitor and this relay in stock (RadioShack® 15A 12VDC/125VAC Relay – Catalog #: 2750031). Can this relay be used instead of the one you mentioned above? It is rated 15A. Thank you.

    • Hi, Dave. As long as the specs are identical (or better) and the relay outputs are identical and in the same spots (that’s what I’d worry about), you should be fine. But if it were me, I’d go with the Omrons.

  • Marshall

    You saved me 2,000 bucks. Thanks for posting…SEARS SUCKS as does Whirlpool & Kitchen aid…They tried to charge me 11.00 dollars for 50 cents circuit board spacer. Sears tried to trick us into a service agreement promising they had the circuit board and It would be free under contract…which was a lie…Anyway, I can’t over state me gratitude for you taking the time to post this solution…

    • Great to hear, Marshall. Sorry to hear you got the runaround from SEARS, but glad you were able to get up and running again on your own! 🙂

  • Hooray! Smart move ordering some spares, especially since shipping is the most expensive part! 😉

  • Hi, HS. Yes… it could have been the invertor all along. That’s the next thing I’d replace!

    • HS

      Thanks Steve.
      I will post the final outcome for the sake of helping the next person in the same situation.

    • HS

      Hi Steve
      I just got the new inverter and installed it. Unfortunately no fan or compressor action. I waited about ten minutes and nothing happened. Any idea where to go from here? Again the panel turns on, all the buttons seem to work properly. No chirping noise. The display shows the set temp and also the current temp (= room temp).
      I would appreciate any advise.

      P.s. I just noticed that there is a green light on the new inverter and when I turn it on (after a few minutes) it blinks twice every few seconds. Any meaning to that? Is my compressor gone?

      P.P.S. I checked the voltage at the converter. Input is 120V, but output is still close to zero. I measured the resistance at the compressor pins and between any two pins is about 6.5 ohm (should be 6-7 ohm based on the service sheet). what are the other two wires (red and red/white) connected to the inverter? They come from the control board. Is there a setting or resetting process I am missing?
      Thanks again

  • Hi, Gabe. If you have the exact Main Control Board, then your repair guy is mistaken. He will not be able to get a new one. If you read the comments here, you’ll see that many have gone through the same thing, and then the repair guy calls back and says “oops, I can’t get you one.” Since your problem is different than mine, I can’t guarantee that this same fix will fix the same problem. But I can say that this is the most common fix for such problems, and that had you spent that $28 on parts, it MIGHT have fixed it. 🙂 Worst case, send the board to CoreCentric and have them diagnose and repair it for cheaper than the $320 you were bid to replace it. If I were in your situation, I’d try this fix myself first.

  • Steve

    I would recommend changing the relay along with the cap as Steve highlights. I changed just the cap a few months back and my problems went away. This past weekend, the fan stopped working again and the compressor over heated. Turns out that I had to replace my inverter, due to the extreme temperatures ($175) which could have been avoided had I replaced the relay at the same time. The inverter fixed the compressor not starting problem and now I’m just waiting on the new cap and relay. Thanks for all of your help Steve!

  • Mark D

    Steve, Awesome site and advice. I had the constant relay clicking the compressor on and off several times a minute with an occasional chirp noise symptoms. The Capacitor was just as you described with the bulge and cracked top. I replaced both parts on my 2007 Kitchen Aid built in and it worked perfectly. You save me thousands before everything quit working all together. The solder vac was delayed so I used a long stick pin to open up the contact holes while applying heat. Thanks for sharing.


  • TK

    I’ve got a similar board in mine but not exact symptoms. My fridge beeps a couple times every few seconds, and the baffle motor runs while this happens too. I unplugged the baffle and the beeping continued. While the beeping is happening the compressor won’t run. I have not noticed a fan problem or any other symptoms, really. The beeping eventually stops and the fridge works again. I have not seen temps rise too high inside, but the beeping was happening for a couple hours the other day and it got to maybe 45-50 degrees inside. I think I will try the relay & capacitor swap, but am wondering if you’ve heard of this too?

  • Hi, Tim. Impossible to say without further diagnostics. If it’s a whole-fridge power issue, my GUESS (and it’s a total guess) would be the inverter.

  • DmaxMatt

    I have a Kenmore side by side fridge and my compressor is running as is my compressor fan. what is weird is that my evaporator fan is not starting up immediately when first plugged in. it’ll make one revolution every 4 seconds or so until about five minutes pass by, then it will come on. the fridge will run constantly for a day or two then the evaporator fan will stop and do the intermittent revolution thing and never start back up causing my coils to freeze and ultimately the fridge to stop cooling. after doing hours of research i find this thread, which is amazing by the way, and now i feel like there is hope. from what i read it sounds like my defrost mode is stuck on and then the fact that im only getting 10 volts to my evaporator fan which is a 12vdc motor i suspect the board is the culprit, like yours. i just don’t know where to start as i am a beginner in the electronic field. i am very capable i just need help in the direction that i should go. thanks in advance!

    edit: grammar and missing words

    • HI, DmaxMatt. Do the exact fix described in this article first. There’s a good chance that’s all you need. 🙂

  • Tim M. Lopez Sr.

    I replaced both boards and the blue light around the power button blinks and beeps inside the refrigerator. Nothing is coming on except the light inside.

    • Then it sounds like you may have accidentally soldered together a circuit that shouldn’t be touching. Turn the board over and double-check to make sure you didn’t make a connection that shouldn’t be there…

  • rob argo

    I have the same thing with the condenser fan not working and I had to straight wire it. I know now it the board and will fix it later. Thanks for the info.

  • Jen Swanlund

    Hey Steve, my husband and I have been trying to “buff up” our DIY skills as it seems there is constantly something needing to be fixed in the kitchen. I found your site while looking for an idea of what might be wrong with my icemaker, it stopped making ice, but the water dispenser still works . (And, I think you have my solution, to replace it!) Then saw this post. I had the same problem with my fridge 2 years ago. My appliance repair guy sent it off to be fixed and we had to make do with no refrigerator for a painful week! Wish I’d found you then, but you might have been in the process of figuring it out at that time. Anyway, just wanted to let you know that I’m enjoying your clear, helpful, and entertaining repair tips. Thanks for your help!

  • Mark

    I join the rest when I say thank you for your detailed post. I had been hearing intermittent beeping coming from the my kitchen aid side by side. I had learned from various postings that it was likely the no-longer-manufactured controller board, but I didn’t want to wait for the thing to fail on me (probably during the holidays) and then wait a week + to get a board fixed. I felt the de-soldering and soldering of these large components was within my skill level. Your shopping list on amazon was a great touch. Just be sure the relays ship from the US and not china – I had to reorder mine. I assumed that if I used Amazon prime, they would arrive in a couple of days. You posted an alternate part # which helped me with ordering a part locally.

    Since my controller board was accessible from the front/top access panel, I didnt have to roll my fridge out. I was able to find, remove, repair, and reinstall the board in under 2 hours. I admit I had help from you tube from a board repair house on how to remove the board which was helpful. They will fix your board if you don’t feel comfortable with the repair, and thus make it easier for you to remove the board to send to them.

    My only anxious moment was waiting for the condenser fan to spool up after I plugged it in and turned on the power switch. I didn’t time it, but it felt like it took 10 very long minutes. Finally kicked on, and no beeps since. Glad I was able to get ahead of this issue thanks to your post!

  • Hard to say, but if it’s running fine for a few days, chances are it’s NOT the board, and something else… like the compressor.

  • Nate

    Hi Steve,
    First of all, thanks for helping all of us right the wrongs of the world…under our refrigerators.
    Secondly, I am looking for some positive reinforcement that this might be my problem. I am having similar issues with our KitchenAid fridge. The board looks the same, etc., etc…however, ours is shutting off everything related to the refrigeration. No vibration from the compressor and the condenser fan goes off. Additional symptoms: every three seconds a low-pitch humming noise (sounds like “buzzety, buzzety, buzzety, buzz”…and might be coming from the area of the damper door?) is accompanied by two short beeps that are being emitted from a small speaker on the board, and the display on the control panel dims/flickers in time with those beeps (making me feel like there is a voltage drop as something is pulling a load while trying to start up). It will do this for awhile, and then inexplicably start working again. Might work for a couple of hours, then everything stops for a fraction of a second, beep-beep, and run again for awhile. In shorter and shorter intervals between beeps, this will happen for about ten minutes until it hits the point where I started the description. Any ideas? I have the board and inverter out, but still connected for observation purposes, and really not getting the feeling that your cap and relay fix is going to be my magic bullet…and of course it’s Sunday, so my resources are limited and my groceries are warming up!
    Thanks in advance!

    • Hi, Nate. That sounds more like the inverter than the cap/relay. Though I’d swap out the cap and relay anyway, as long as it’s exposed. They are a weak link… even if they’re not dead yet.

      I’ve never replaced my inverter, but a few readers have, and I’ve documented it here:

      Please let me know how things turn out!

      • Nate

        I’m going to head to Frys Electronics to see if I can locate them. Being Sunday, I’m sure the inverter is unavailable until tomorrow. I just don’t understand how it starts back up after awhile and runs fine until the next episode.

      • Nate

        Ok, I was unable to locate the relay at Fry’s. I did get the capacitor, though. When I walked into the house, the beeping and nonsense were going on. I unplugged the fridge, quickly removed the board and desoldered the existing cap. Had the new one soldered in less than two minutes, so maybe unplugged for about four minutes. As soon as I popped the connections onto the board and plugged it back in, everything started right up. She’s been humming along for about 20 minutes now with nary a beep or a squeak. I’m feeling really proud of myself right now, so I bet that means she’ll explode in the next hour or so. I’ll keep you posted…

        • Fingers crossed!

          Did the capacitor do the trick? Since it’s responsible for temporarily storing electrical energy for the control board, it’s possible that alone might fix it. Curious to hear what happened!

    • Dee Dee

      I got my W10219463 repaired by Circuit Medics. When putting things back together today, I came up with an extra set of wires (from the big bundle) that has nothing to plug into. There are 8 groups coming out of the box, and only 7 connectors from the base. The extra wire is a two-wire, pink and brown, with a white male connector. Has anyone run into this? The frig seems to be running fine without it.
      Dee Dee

  • Jesse N

    PANASONIC EEU-EB1J221 CAPACITOR ALUM ELEC, 220UF, 20%, 63V, RADIAL is 63V that you recommend, not 35V wouldn’t that matter?

  • Dee Dee

    I got my W10219463
    repaired by Circuit Medics. When putting things back together today, I
    came up with an extra set of wires (from the big bundle) that has
    nothing to plug into. There are 8 groups coming out of the box, and
    only 7 connectors from the base. The extra wire is a two-wire, pink and
    brown, with a white male connector. Has anyone run into this? The
    frig seems to be running fine without it.
    Dee Dee

  • don

    We seem to be having the same problem however when I follow the instructions for putting out of demo mode the fridge starts working again. Is it possible I am still having issues with the Relays and this is possible. For example could the relays be getting stuck and then by intermittently following the instructions for getting out of demo mode is “unsticking” them?

  • Stanley L

    Hi Steve, It’s very nice of you taking so much time to guide us step by step to fix this common issue. You saved me hundreds of dollars and much time. As the control board has 5 capacitors that might go bad sooner or later, I replaced them all. The capacitors cost less than a dollar each. Each relay costs a few dollars and I replaced them too. My refrigerator is working again. Thank you so much!!!

  • Ed Prosser

    Steve, you are da man. I just completed the capacitor and relay replacement this morning on our Kitchenaid Superba fridge. The annoying chirping sound and intermittent fan cycling has gone away. Prior to this, I had never desoldered a PCB component before. That relay was a bit of a struggle for a first-timer. 🙂 Thanks so much for sharing your detective work and the very detailed instructions and explanations.

  • Salut, Martin! Je suis heureux que votre réparation a bien marchée! Felicitations!

  • Henry


    i finally fix it but my BIG issue now is i forgot where the wires go back for the gray inverted box.
    Any help will be appreciated. any one has a video for the connections of gray box or photos.


  • rodger

    You are not working on the control box. You are trying to take apart the inverter box for the compressor. Search youtube for W10219463 Electronic Control repair. Circuit board medics has videos for the 3 types of refrigerators and shows how to remove the control board.

  • rodger

    You are trying to open the inverter box for the compressor. Search you tube for W10219463 Electronic Control repair. Circuit medics has instructions on 3 types of refrigerators and how to remove the control board .

  • rodger

    My board has different capacitors for C33 and C34 they are 10uf 250v. Any idea if either controls defrost since the voltage is higher?

  • Ellen I

    Steven thank you soooo much for posting this. my fridge is fixed because of you. I am female and NOT handy but i could not fathom a repair person telling me that my relatively new fridge could not be fixed! Your blog was like color by numbers for fixing it. I ordered the soldering iron, desoldering tool, relay and capacitor you recommended from Amazon. I think I got the wrong capacitor because it was smaller than the one on the board but I desoldered and replaced the relay plugged it in and success!

    I do not own a voltage meter and diagnosing this independently would have been way beyond my abilities but you putting in the time and effort to explain and simplify it (with pics!) made it plausible. Sooo nice!

    For those who don’t have confidence soldering, it was a bit tricky to desolder with the tool but I googled desoldering/soldering a component to a circuit board watched a couple of demonstrations, changed to a finer point on the solder, put on reading glasses and got started. My attempts were a bit rougher than the demos but I guess I didn’t do too much damage since it worked!

    • HI, Ellen. I use wireless printers in my home and office, so I’ve never had to tinker with the DD-WRT printer settings. I’d recommend the DD-WRT forums to help troubleshoot that.

      As far as a future router goes, I’ve made the switch to Ubiquiti (UBNT) products. Their USG (Ubiquiti Security Gateway) is an excellent product for home or small office use.

    • That’s great to hear! Good job! 🙂

  • Spencer L. Crawley Jr

    I can’t begin to thank you enough for this. My fridge had been acting up for a few weeks, and one Saturday afternoon it was quite apparent something was wrong, as the fridge would just reset itself every 2-5 minutes. Getting a tech to the house wasn’t possible, as the first appointment available was in a week. Searching for possible causes and repair parts led me to this post on Sunday morning. With few options and little to lose, I hopped on Amazon Prime and ordered up the parts with same day shipping. Parts came late that evening, and the job was done before bedtime. I think it took longer to move the fridge and remove the board than it did to solder the new parts on. All for the low. low price of $22. My father was impressed, and my wife told people that’s why she married me. Now, I don’t know if ‘being able to fix a refrigerator’ is high on the list of marriage candidates, but still…Kudos and thanks to you. If you’re ever in the DC area, I owe you a drink.

    • Spencer: Wow. I think yours is the first “success” story where you were able to order the parts on a Sunday morning and have the fridge running again that night. No wonder your father and wife were impressed… I’M impressed! 🙂 Congrats on the fix.

      • Spencer L. Crawley Jr

        No, thank you again. I think being relatively close to an Amazon warehouse was they key. When I went looking that Sunday morning, I had a 2 hour window to get the order in for it to be shipped the same day. Since we had food that would possibly go bad, I figured paying whatever extra fee was worth it to get the parts that day. Finding the parts on a weekday would be hard enough, but on a Sunday? It was worth the shipping costs. Needless to say I’ll be keeping Amazon Prime for the foreseeable future…

        As an aside, it turns out my fridge woes weren’t quite over. The evaporator fan and defrost thermostat didn’t like being cycled on and off when the board was bad. After a week, the freezer was rock solid, but the fridge would no longer cool. So, back to Amazon for parts. After emptying the freezer I saw the coils had frozen over, confirming my suspicions that the fan and/or thermostat were bad. So, swapped the motor, spliced in the new thermostat, used a heat gun to melt the ice off the coils and buttoned everything back up. Now the fridge runs nice and quiet, and the compressor actually switches off when not needed. All told, I spent less than $150 on parts and saved close to four figures doing it myself. All because of your post. I can’t thank you enough (and I’m sure many others share the same sentiment). Salute!

  • Ken

    *** You’re Still our Hero Steve! ***
    10 Months and Still Going Strong!….Back in September 2015 I replaced the Capacitor and Relay on our KitchenAid (model# KSSC48QMS03) per your Fix. Our fridge hasn’t missed a beat and is still going strong! I still can’t thank you enough for sharing your repair and helping the many homeowners save the expense of replacing their refrigerators. I owe you one Steve….My offer still stands to PM or direct email me with your PayPal account so I can buy you a drink. ~Ken (Valencia, CA)

    • Yay, Ken! Thanks for the 10 month update! 🙂 And I truly appreciate the generous offer, but really, a friendly comment and a “yay, it’s still working!” is payment enough.

  • Jeff Smith

    My Kitchen Aid had the same problem and after reading the post I replaced the cap and relay. It’s been a long time since I had the soldering equipment out but all is well now. Thanks for your explanation and advise.

  • Congrats! 🙂

  • Hi, Dave. I would. The fan relay will be replaced, which is what has likely failed in the “on” position in your case. It’s a cheap attempt, and my gut says it’s gonna work. Please come back and let us know!

  • WeiZ

    Thanks Steve! Follow your instructions and was able to fix my fridge for a few bucks!!! You da man!!

  • Paul G

    God bless you Steve! I have the same exact board with the same exact problem. I soldered in the $1.49 capacitor from RadioShack (apparently some are still in business???) and woala, fridge is working just fine! They didn’t have the relay, so for now I just did the capacitor. Its working for now, hopefully will keep on working but I think you said it may not last w/o the relay. At least I’ll know what to do now! 🙂

    THANK YOU SO MUCH for taking the time to write this blog in such detail! You have helped so many people! Thanks again!

  • adon boyd

    Hi Steve,
    I have a Whirlpool, Model Number: GC5SHEXNB00. My problems are different from yours. It started with the rubber shield on both sides being very hot but the cooling inside both were fine. Then, water came thru the ice cup. The next day, the refrigerator on both sides were not cooling. All the fans are working. The digital control shows 57 (freezer) and 61 (refrigerator). I checked the compressor in the back at the bottom of the fridge and found out the fan next to it runs all the time but the compressor will start running for about 5 seconds then slowly dying down. After 15 minutes, the compressor will start again, runs for 5 seconds, then dying down. I called the appliance parts store and the men told me the compressor is bad. Then, I called a repair guy and told him the whole scenario. He told me it could be the starting terminal or the compressor. The compressor is made by EMBARCO. I don’t think the compressor is bad if it is still running. I am thinking it might be the inverter. Do you know by any chance which part(s) I have to replace (de-solder and solder)? By the way, I have cleaned the coils under the refrigerator. Thanks for your help.

  • Gwen C. Dexter

    steve, just wanted to say thank you,, I just came back from vacation and my kitchenAid frig wasn’t working. I called the repair man and he came out checked everything with his multimeter and said everything was working fine $90 BILL.. well it stopped working bout 20 minutes after he left.. I then got on the internet and found your repair,, order parts through amazon prime came today and installed and we up and running,, wanted to say Thank you for your post,, saved about 900 following your post,, Thanks again .. RWDexter

  • Brandon M

    I had the same problem and was planning to replace the board until I saw this. I ordered the parts and its up and running for less than $20. Thanks for posting this fix!

  • Herb

    Thanks for the detailed post. However, I think your analysis is wrong. Also, I have an alternative fix:

    1. I don’t think a surge was the cause of the relay failure. My condenser fan draws ~50 ma. The relay is rated at 10 A. If a surge came, I think it would take out a lot of other stuff before a 10 A relay driving a little fan. Rather, the problem is the opposite: Power relays rely on the opening spark to burn away any corrosion on the contacts. A 10 A relay is designed for something close to 10 A. The puny spark from the 50 ma fan does not have enough energy to burn away the corrosion that has built up over time. Eventually, there’s enough build-up that the contacts never make good contact. Putting in an even bigger relay won’t help; what’s actually needed is a smaller relay, designed for these low currents. Smaller relays may even have gold contacts because they can’t rely on an opening spark to cleanse them. My suspicion is that this is a design flaw by Westinghouse. They made all 4 relays the same, but this one should have gotten a smaller relay.

    2. Though replacing the relay on the board most probably will fix the problem, this is a high risk repair. If anything goes wrong with the controller removal, repair, and re-installation, the refrigerator is toast; there is no spare controller you can buy. At best, the refrigerator will be down for at least a week while the controller gets repaired. Besides that, on my KitchenAid side-by-side, getting at the controller was a royal pain.

    The solution I came up with was to bypass the controller and control the fan externally. The fan needs to go on whenever the compressor goes on. The refrigerator draws current whenever the compressor goes on. The solution is a current operated switch, sensing the refrigerator line current. See CR9321-ACA, available in stock from as part number

    582-1020-ND for $23.

    I got a 4″ 1-1/2″ deep electrical box with a duplex outlet on the cover and made a short extension cord for the refrigerator. The hot wire goes through the current sensor on its way to the outlet, and the condenser fan is wired to the AC line through a 3AG 1 A fuse and the relay wires. Now, whenever the refrigerator draws more than 0.35 A, the condenser fan turns on. In my case, even opening up the door (which turns on the interior light and the display) draws enough current to trigger the relay, so this is an easy check that the box is working properly.

    So for under $30 (plus shipping) I got the fan working properly without having to take the refrigerator apart, no down time, and no risk of causing further damage to the refrigerator or the controller. If anyone needs more details, they can contact me at [email protected]

    • That’s an interesting approach, Herb! I “stumbled” onto my version of the fix only after seeing CoreCentric replace those two items on my board. However, for this specific fan issue, I think your solution is an elegant one. However, there have been a number of other incidents reported here in the comments of “chirping” and other strangeness as a result of the control board, and replacing the capacitor seems to do the trick. I supposed the bottom line is that there are many ways to skin a cat — and I’m glad you found a different one that worked for you. 🙂

  • David

    Thank you Steve! I’m experiencing the same thing right now! I had hard wired the fan just before finding your blog, you really made me feel better by confirming what I was thinking. I’m leaving it that way while I order the parts. My sons friend is more experienced than I am at soldering circuit boards so he’ll charge me dinner and a 12 pack of coke… So, it’ll be a bit more than $6.00, but I’d rather ay him any way.
    Regarding Kitchenaid: ten years ago when I remodeled my kitchen we bought the Kitchenaid “Archetict Series” suite. We extended the warranty to 5 years. Well, 5 yrs and 2 months after purchase the combination range-hood-microwave-convection oven quit working. We were unable to have it repaired. When I called Kitchenaid they asked me “how long did you think it would last.” Later in the conversation they said “well, they don’t make them like they used to.” I speak with my wallet and neither Kitchenaid or Whirlpool will ever make so much as a dime from me again
    Thank you for this fix.

  • Kevin Ost

    Thank you for posting this outstanding article! Our fridge crapped out last night and it is working now since I was able to repair the board with your step by step instructions. I wasn’t able to replace the relays but have ordered four new ones that should be here on Friday. Hopefully the cap will hold until then. 🙂
    All the best from Kansas City!

  • P Bruno

    Dude, thank you SO much for the write up. My fridge was on the fritx the last few weeks… blinking temp display and beeps… the evaporator fan would rumble for a few seconds, and the condensor fan not run. It would cycle like this every few seconds, then it would start at some point, and the fridge would cool down. But it got increasingly worse over the weeks, with longer delays between when it would work.

    I replaced the capacitor and the relay, and on first power, it all ran as expected. Brilliant!! Again, good on you for putting this together!

  • James Teller

    Thank you sir for this post, I spend a week replacing everything from the evaporator motor to the inverter board and the issue continued. I was about to give up and came across your post. I went out the next day to radio shack and a hour later I am good to go. After spending $400 in parts which i will be returning, I am glad it was a $2 dollar part that fixed the issue. Again thank you for the detailed post.

  • Derrick

    Right up was awesome! Fixed the board last week. Thanks!

  • Hi, Rick. It’s possible, and even likely, that you just bent it. If it bent back, it’s probably fine. I’d install it and test. If if works, you’re good to go.

    • Rick Ragland

      Thanks.. that’s exactly what i did! Now, it appears my inverter box may be bad. Since i replaced the parts on the control board, all fans are working however the compressor kicks on and after a couple of minutes it goes silent. After researching some videos, voltage to the inverter box is correct both the the control board and the 115v main. And i checked the posts on the compressor… all 6.5 ohm, which according to the video would make the compressor good. I believe this would make the inverter board bad. Do you know the correct inverter box part number? Thanks

  • Bruce

    A big thanks to everyone for your help I just fixed my kitchenaid control board after it started beeping. If I had not seen this information it was going to cost me $90.00 for a technical to come and diagnose it and then parts and labor would have been close to $400.00 and about a week wait. I fixed it myself today for $1.13 with an extra capacitor in case it happens again.

  • Trevor O.

    Thank you Steve for such comprehensive instructions. While I had originally come across this fix on my own like you, I later discovered your blog when the problems kept recurring. Everything else that you went through helped me narrow down another problem I had with the exact same symptoms, which I’ll add here to help others who may have already replaced the caps and relays but still have issues.

    I was having the same problem with no cold air blowing into the fridge compartment, even through all the caps and relays tested fine (I had actually replaced them twice over the course of a couple years). So I took apart the housing for the evaporator fan so I could test and/or replace it. What I found was that the evaporator fan was frozen in place by little icicles that had formed bridging the fan blades to the mount. I flicked them away and the fan started spinning just fine. I thought all was good but it froze up again a few days later. I took it apart again, and on closer inspection the freezer coils had accumulated a good amount of frost. Back to the internet to get a better feel for how things are supposed to work down there, and it appeared something was wrong with the defrost cycle. I tested the defrost coils by applying power directly and they heated up just fine and melted the frost away. I also tested the defrost thermostat, which if it was bad would have an open circuit to the defrost coils, but it worked fine, I traced the wires for the defrost coils back to the control board, but they were soon lost in a maze that went in and out of the microprocessor. The board was unable to control the defrost cycle, and there appeared to be no way to fix it.

    So, I went to the appliance parts store and bought a MANUAL defrost timer, like those found in older fridges. There’s no complicated circuitry, it’s basically gears and a motor that toggles the defrost cycle on and off at various intervals that you can set by turning little dials. $20. I was able to install the manual defrost timer by cutting some wires that go into the board (scary!) and splicing it in to toggle power to the compressor and power to the defrost coils. It took some fiddling with the time intervals, but now my defrost cycle works without being controlled by the board! The evaporator fan doesn’t freeze up any more. and everything is running fine.

    Unbelievable that we have to go through so much with these damn fridges. On a side note, the guy at the appliance parts store was really impressed with this fix!

    • Sergey Sirotinskiy

      Trevor, would you be willing to share with me how you spliced your wiring? I got the manual timer as well, but can’t seem to figure out which wire is the one that control compressor cycle while timer goes into defrost state. I would really appreciate your help.

      Thank You

  • Daniel Dziak

    Thank you for saving me the diagnostic time. Worked like a charm!!!!!

  • Trayton Jay

    I’m a new “victim” of this issue. Thank you very much for sharing the great information on troubleshooting and resolution.

  • Jean Armour

    Much appreciated and good work Steve. I bought this refrigerator at the Restore in Park City for $75. After cleaning, etc., noticed that the Mullin strip was hot and icemaker didn’t work. Luckily, I found your post right away. Due to my previous soldering efforts being complete failures, I opted for the Circuit Board Medics exchange deal (maybe gave the old refrigerator away a little to hastily). Anyway, I now have a perfectly working and beautiful refrigerator for a grand total of $325. I am so grateful to you for sharing your investigative and repair skills. Also, appreciative towards the generous people who donated this refrigerator and obviously didn’t see your post. Thank you again.
    P.S. If you have any trouble with your matching appliances, please post, so I can watch for them at Restore. (LMHO)

    • Wow – $75 for a fridge that you can get working for a few hundred more? NICE JOB!

  • The defrost mode could indeed be relay related, but the holiday mode makes me a bit more concerned that perhaps it’s a problem with the on-board chip. I’d replace all the relays (they’re all the same) and see if that works. Will be much cheaper than sending the board out for repair.

  • NICE. Great job, Chad!

  • Mike C

    Steve, thanks a million I just finished the repair…sort of. Since I had multiple issues, condenser fan, evap. fan and damper all acting strange or not working I replaced ALL four relays. Freezer is cold and the refrigerator is catching up. HOWEVER now I don’t have power to the water dispenser and freezer lights (I am guessing ice maker too). Since there is no schematic I was wondering if you (or anyone else here) know which wire bundle and which relay on the control board powers these items. Thanks much.

    • Hi, Mike. Sorry, I don’t have any schematics (I would have shared them in the article). You might try finding a local TV repair shop, as they might be able to diagnose the soldering and check the relays.

  • Mike in MD

    I just finished the repair…sort of. Since I had multiple issues, condenser fan, evap. fan and damper all acting strange or not working I replaced ALL four relays. Freezer is cold and the refrigerator is catching up. HOWEVER now I don’t have power to the water dispenser and freezer lights (I am guessing ice maker too). Since there is no schematic I was wondering if you (or anyone else here) know which wire bundle and which relay on the control board powers these items. Thanks much.

    post script; Hey Steve, I must have pulled a connector in a wiring harness, when I was buttoning everything up I noticed it plugged it in I am back in business, I can’t thank you enough.

    • Hooray! Glad you were able to catch that. Congrats. 🙂

  • Josh W

    I have the KSCS25FTSS02 KitchenAid Refrigerator, out of the blue tonight it started beeping every 10 secs or so, when I open the door the lights go on and off and the display keeps flashing with different numbers. It stopped cooling completely and the fan isn’t turning on at all.


    Of course this happens over the weekend. I’v spent a good number of hours looking up site after site, after reading through this site, Im hoping very much that the board is the primary issue here. The clicking I hear seems to be coming from the control board box, or it’s from the inverter but Im not %100 sure. I plan on ordering the parts next day shipping from amazon but I still have to wait til Tues before it comes. I really hope this fixes it.

  • Yeah! Way to save the holiday. Nice job. 🙂

  • That’s great to hear, Dwight. Congrats on a successful fix!

    • Dwight Bridges

      Now, do you know anything about aiming a 2013 Land Cruiser headlights? lol

  • Blaire P

    Thanks Steve for providing this solution, we have the Kenmore Elite Refrigerator Model 106.44429603
    Audible Beeping,
    Beeping continuously coming from the left side of the compressor opposite the fan.
    Ends after about 5 minutes.
    Clicking noise from the compressor and very hot.
    Fan cutting in and out.
    No overheating of the strip between the two doors.
    Refrigerator continued to work.

    I tried the fan bypass to help cool the compressor, that seemed to help but resulted in the strip between the two doors getting warm and 2 beeps a second then a delay of 2 seconds continuously.
    I pulled the board and took it down to the local electronics shop, they pulled the capacitor and tested it, tech had a little grin “that won’t work”.
    They soldered a new capacitor in for me, took them 10 minutes, charged me next to nothing for it.
    They seemed confident the relay was fine and asked me to try this first.. SUCCESS!!!!
    Refrigerator up and running like new… can’t thank you enough for taking the time to post this solution.. Thanks again Steve!


    When we hear the word Father it means something ,no matter what, You sound just like yours. God Bless

  • Luis Cabrera

    What a great reading – Mau God Bless you my friend. you save me lot of trouble. – 2 more people like you will make the difference in the world.

  • Greg

    Steve – I am having the fan issue with my Kitchenaid KSCS25FSMS01 serial: SU1231529 fridge. I read your fix noted above for the control board, bought the parts, lined up someone to repair the board BUT when I went to pull the board for repair, it looks nothing like the board you have pictured. I am stumped… kitchenaid, repair man all told me my fridge has control board w10219463 but the board in the fridge is different. Any ideas to help? I believe my fridge is 2007 model.

    Thank you.


  • Karan Bajwa

    Hopped on THE GOOGLE and found your blog. Tried the demo mode fix – no joy. Opened the board housing and found a capacitor with a tiny-bulge. Ordered the capacitor and the relays on Amazon. Am waiting for the stuff to show up so I can get back to the science project. Will update when its fixed. One question: How did you walk the issue back to the specific capacitor and the relay? As you must’ve noticed, there are 2 other capacitors on the board and 3 other relays. The relay that you replaced, is that the start relay? I am trying to come up with plan B – so any help is appreciated.

  • Massoud Razavi

    I was Just reading very interesting journey you took to fix your Refrigerator, I also had the same problem and took the easy way out and didn’t see this report at the time, however after the board came back and I installed the board every thing worked ok.
    however two weeks later Refrigerator didn’t go to defrost mode automatically, checked bi metal and heater both are good.
    Any idea what went wrong and what course action now? thanks in advance, Massoud.

    • Often, when it fails to go into defrost mode, it’s the sensor near the defrost coil. I believe there’s a way you can wire in a timer (like the old fridges used to have) and do it the old (and reliable) way. 🙂

      • Ali

        Hi Steve. I have exactly the same problem after replacing the capacitor and relay … the freezer is not defrosting.. I order a new control board and installed it but it seems it disabled the temperature control module located in the fridge so I return it. I still did not solve the problem of the defrosting. Now I am your above suggestion about putting a timer! how to do that? but do you have any idea what part on the board is responsible for this defrost cycle?

  • Green Tomato

    I followed your directions and replaced the capacitor and single relay and it worked!! My refrigerator is cooling on both sides and actually hitting the temperatures it is set on. No more beeping, lights blinking and 53 degree refrigerator side temperatures. I invested a total of $14 into this including the solder and wick, Thank you so much for this post!!!!

  • Well done!

  • Ben

    Excelling Discussion. Thank you for posting. This thread was thorough and helped me solved the issue. Unfortunately could not get any support from Whirlpool…a little searching goes a long way. Cheers
    -Mississauga Service Technician

  • David Brown

    Thank you for posting this Steve. I need to replace the control board in my Whirlpool refrigerator, board number WPW10503278. The defroster in my freezer compartment isn’t kicking on and I’m guessing the relay you’ve detailed is the source of my problem. I’ll update this post after I found out for sure.

  • Tony

    Hi Steve,
    Thank you so much for taking the time to help your fellow man. You are a blessing! Even though I work with electronics & probably could have figured out what was wrong, you saved me lots of precious time. As of yet, I have only replaced the capacitor, & everything is working fine. But I have ordered a relay & will replace that also. I am up & running for less than $2.
    God bless you!

  • Sean

    Hi Steve! I feel like this is Terminator and you’ve saved mankind in the war vs machines. You need the DIY Purple Heart for sharing this! Really blessed me man I appreciate it sincerely! I’m an electrician and I don’t know why I was so intimidated by circuit boards but I did it!!!!!!!!

  • kevin

    My built-in can power up but finally failed mid-November. Whirlpool directed us to nearby repair services who insisted a “repair kit” was necessary. This “kit” is an oversized motherboard, not like the first one. This article is extremely helpful, Thank you!

    Whirlpool parts also said to me, and I quote, “I have not heard of this issue before, I cannot tell you what the issue is and as for the motherboard, those are discontinued and will not be available in the future so tell your repair service to get the “repair kit.” Nice.

    I did keep the recommended mother board left by my service company- the kit did not work at all. Now I am curious if the capacitor and the relay that your identified are on this spare board. Worth a look, worth a try. Winter is almost over and the outside icebox has served us well.

    If there is a class-action suit against #whirlpool on this #kitchenaid issue, count me in.

    • Spencer L. Crawley Jr

      I ended up having to replace the original board with a ‘repair kit’ as well. There definitely is a size difference, as the kit is made up of 3-4 PCBs instead of the 1 original PCB (it’s possible some of the parts on the original PCB simply aren’t made anymore, or it’s easier or more reliable to have separate PCBs). It’s an extremely tight fit, but it will go in with some coaxing. After that, the connections all match up. 9 months in and there hasn’t been a problem since

  • John Fish

    Wow, never in a million years would I have thought I know more than a refrigerator repair guy. I bought a used Kitchen Aid side by side from the local used appliance place. It was running in the store and everything seemed good. The issues started as soon as I got it home and plugged it in. You could hear a little chirp which happened at the same time the fan kicked off. This was pretty random, happening every five seconds, then maybe 10-15 seconds. As the refrigerator cooled down the freezer went really cold (-9) but the refrigerator side stayed in the 50s.

    I called and told them of the problem and they sent a tech out… Waste of time, tech said no problems and I should have waited 24 hours for the refrigerator to stabilize, this was on a Friday. That is when I went on google and found your site. On Monday I called again, board chiming, center of unit would get really warm at times, can hear the fan clicking on and off. This time the tech actually opened things up. When he pulled the circuit board the blown cap was so obvious even I could spot it. I told the tech the capacitor was blown on the board and I got this blank stare back. His solution was to see if they had a replacement board. He will check back with his boss and they will get back to me… (It’s been a month and they have yet to check back with me)

    The day after the first service call I bought everything you said I needed from Amazon. Having Amazon Prime it all arrived Monday and I decided that since I knew they would not find a replacement board I might as well conquer my fear of soldering circuit boards and give it a try. I made a mess of removing the cap and relay. Despite having the desolder tool I was rather clumsy getting the components off the board. New cap, new relay, overheated the board but they are attached. Put it all back together and shockingly it fired right up and ran perfect. It’s been a month and I’m happy as can be with my repair job. I can’t thank you enough!

    As far as buying a used appliance I learned something… Over the weekend the refrigerator did come to proper temps with the defective board. So my guess is the board was bad in the store but with the ambient noise level you’d never hear the fan clicking on and off or the very quiet chime of the board. This week I’m calling the store to tell them how disappointed I am with them and how every review site will be told of their after sale indifference. Maybe I can coax some money back from them. If not, I spent $600 on a $3000 refrigerator and fixed it myself!

    Thanks again for this…

  • JP

    Hi Steve – Great post and thanks for putting this info up for all to benefit from. My 2004 Kitchenaid frig built-in side-by-side has finally given me my first problem…frig side is not syaing cool. I’ve determined the condenser fan motor is not coming on. The C32 cap and fan relay seem fine. When I look into the motor with an ohm meter it reads open circuit. Does that mean it’s shot? RepairClinic says to do this and if open, then the fan motor is shot. Just want to confirm with you that makes sense before ordering a new $100 fan

    Thanks in advance for yuor help, John

  • William Kluepfel

    Steve, thanks for taking the time to create this post! Although I had no problem with my refrigerator maintaining temperature and the condenser fan was operating normally, something was amiss. The “mullion” strip was always hot, and there was a beeping sound that constantly emanated from the back of the refrigerator as something was trying to start. I purchased the item on your list from Amazon and had a go at it. I replaced the capacitor and relay without a hitch. The refrigerator has been running for a week now. The beeping is gone and the mullion strip is no longer hot to the touch. I am so disappointed in KitchenAid/Whirlpool products. All within a year, I had to replace the magnetron in the over the range microwave, the drive shaft, bearings, and seal in the washing machine, and now the fridge. Fortunately I’m an Aircraft Technician and have been able to fix all this on my own with Amazon as my parts supplier, but I feel sorry for the people that have to pay someone to do perform these repairs. These tasks are relatively easy for someone with my skill set, but your post with the pictures hopefully puts in range of people that have some basic skills.

  • Julio

    Hi Steve, in my case fan and compressor are intermittent together forever and beeping and singing together forever. Can you help me? Thanks in advance.

  • FMQ

    Thank you for your efforts Mr. Jenkins. Your willingness to help and precision is unrivaled!

  • Ben Nguyen

    Hi Steve. Thanks so much for your posts. My fridges running again after I replaced the capacitor. I’ve ordered your recommended relay from Amazon and will install it. However, the freezer got frosted after 3 days. The bi-metal thermostat and the heater tested ok. It seems like the freezer does not go into defrost cycle. Is there anything else wrong with the control board causing this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • J. Chiu

    Just finished fixing my 10 year old fridge per you instructions. I never soldered before, but after watching several instructional solder videos on Youtube and practicing on an old circuit board, I was able to remove the two components without any problems. I think the hardest part of the whole process for me was removing the control board off the 5 small white plastic mounting clips on the fridge. I also had a Dell E520 computer that went down because of a blown capacitor which I fixed by buying a new motherboard. I wonder how many nonfunctional electronic devices and appliances I have discard in the past which may have also been an easy fix by changing a blown capacitor. Thanks for posting the useful information.


    First, i thank you for all you effort and willingness to help others.

    The capacitor was a dance, pulling from one side while de soldering from the trying to keep both spots hot to release tricky.

    The relay more difficult, 5 point to loosen. 5 point to reaching melting point. Had to pry from top side with wedge tool. Then release, wedge more release two more.

    After relat finally came off, some point had soldering covering the hole, i used the point on the welder to push through the old solder.

    Three of the 5 points points solder great, the last two i cannot get to solder. See pick, any help?

    • Karan Bajwa

      Sorry this is a bit late and maybe you’ve found a solution. Anyway, I found that there was a plastic film of some sort that was making it harder to desolder/resolder. I had to be patient and careful to melt the old solder. Hope that helps.

  • 🙂

  • Horst Mielke

    Steve, amazing that this blog has been going with the same control board issue for over 3 years!! All links to replacement parts for board 2307028 come up with “no longer available”. Repairs don’t seem to be available in Canada and USA options involve expensive shipping and customs issues – a real bummer! Our 7 year old Kitchenaid is working fine except for the unpredicatable cycling of the condenser fan with its annoying beeping. I guess I will order the relay and capacitor and try to replace them, but am skeptical that the cycling can be caused by only these 2 parts??? Repair guy checked fan is ok and quoted replacing board for over $600. Too bad that no one repairs these things in Canada and as a result tons of otherwise good fridges end up being junked!

    • It’s OK to be skeptical. Just be sure to report back when it works. Cuz it’s gonna work. 🙂

  • M Margol

    Steve thanks for your great blog post. I have a 9 year old Kitchenaid KSCS25FTMS02 side by side. It keeps cold, but I hear the compressor cycle on and off. No beeping. I followed your instructions and my circuit board was in a greyt plastic box that they had glued the screw in. Jeez, after much work I removed and took to a friend who is a PhD in electrical engineering. Only one problem, the board looks totally different from yours so relay and capacitors are different and also have parts on back side covering solder points. He said all looks great. Replaced everything and all temps went back to normal but still cycling. Any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

  • Amir Mozafari

    Steve, first off Kudos to you sir for this post. Can’t believe it’s been up for over 3 years. You’ve helped so many people!

    I have a Kitchenaid KSCS25FTMS02 also, it’s about 10 years old. Did the usual, repair guy comes out tells me its something expensive then I found your article opened up the back found the board and sure enough the exact same capacitor was blown so I went ahead and ordered a soldering kit, capacitor and relay. After a few youtube Videos I taught myself how to solder and replaced the capacitor. Like you said, it fixed it up and my fridge worked great for about 2 weeks! Just yesterday it stopped keeping cold so I read your site again and replaced the relay as well. But still it’s not keeping cold. The fan is constantly on and the compressor is on as well. Everything seems to be working fine, the fridge is just not keeping cold at the levels it should. Any ideas or help is greatly appreciated! I’ve also cleaned my coils! Thank you again!

  • Leo

    Thank you, Steve! I have a KitchenAid Model KSSC42QTS03 about 7 years old. I just replaced the ice dispenser chute door and motor because I was having water dripping out from that area and the ice cubes in the bucket would become a solid mass. I have also noticed my unit runs a lot and I keep hearing a clicking sound (switch?) as if it is going to (switch) shut off but comes right back on (fraction of a second off?). I found your article and I’m going to investigate per your instructions. I just wanted to say THANK YOU VERY MUCH for helping all of us (out here) out, really great of you!

  • Karan Bajwa

    Hey Steve, Few months ago I had chirping issues with my KSCS25FTSS02 side by side and I followed your directions to fix the circuit board. It worked well until now. I was away for a few days and when I came back, the fridge is now stuck in Holiday Mode. it cools ok but the water and ice maker alongwith the lights keeps shutting off. I thought it may be one of the relays (read it on applianceblog), so I replaced the remaining 4 (3 in a row out of the row-of-4 and 1 located on the far side of the board) with 10A 250VAC relays. None of the capacitors look like they are blown. Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot?

  • Karan Bajwa

    Hey Paul! I am having the same issue. What did you end up doing?
    Few months ago, I was having the chirping issue that the cap and relay fixed. The fridge ran perfectly for 5 months and now I am having the “holiday mode issue”. The fridge is cooling fine and the freezer is holding temps as well. Since I started having this issue, I changed the remaining 4 (3/4 on one side and the 1 near the P5 connector) – no joy 🙁
    Now I am contemplating sending it to circuitboardmedics for an exchange or buying a new one from applianceparts365. Thoughts?

  • Tom Watson

    My Kitchenaid has been dying slow death for 6 months with loud constant motor noises turning on and off and great difficulty holding temperature. It has also had an intermittent high pitched tone which I didn’t realize was originating with the refrigerator. I tried cleaning the coils to no avail. I finally gave in and called a tech ($79 diagnosis visit) who traced the problems to the circuit board. He wanted an additional $315 ($212 the board) parts and labor to replace it so I told him to hold off while I did a little research to see if I could get the board for less. I found nobody to sell the board but several board repair services. Then I found your post!! Replaced the capacitor and relay for $15 last night and plugged it back in. Working perfectly. This morning temps at 37 and 0…Awesome!!!Thank you! Thank you! You Rock!

  • Peter Andersen

    I am a Electronic Technician with 35 years experience.

    I did the capacitor/relay fix last Fall. Fridge worked perfectly for the Winter. It started another problem near the Spring where all the lights would go out including the Temp display, ice maker and water dispenser stopped working also. It is an intermittent problem. Sometimes it quits after 2 seconds sometimes it quits after 6 hours…

    I finally found the right diagram for the unit after much searching. I can now put it into Servicing Mode. Kenmore/Whirlpool model 106.44423603.

    The BiMetal switch on the coils was open to start with. I replaced it only to find that it isn’t going into Defrost Mode by itself…..although I was able to defrost it using the Codes from the Service Mode.

    I see there are others with the same issue.

    I am very suspicious that the 12 Volt Power Supply on the Board(??) which supplies the fan in the back and possibly the relays isn’t working properly, so that is my next thing to figure out……

    • Peter Andersen

      Well I put in an afternoon yesterday on it. Lots of Logic in it.
      I did find out that:
      1, when the lights go out, display etc….4 of the 5 relays are actually energized and working….the 5th is turned off…..Logic is taking care of it all. It appears like the 12 volt supply is fine btw!
      2. I looked really close at all the solder connections so I believe all these are good.(“if you replace the relays be really careful as those circuits are pretty small and can easily be damaged). You may end up with an intermittent just from poor soldering.
      3. there aren’t really any electrolytic capacitors left as I changed them all…..
      4. I was thinking that it might be something to do with the 3 phase power board so I took it apart to have a look. There is quite an extensive electronics board in there as well with capacitors too….they look different as they don’t have the standard plastic skin as the other board. I measured them all with my capacitance meter and they look good…..I just want to say that this board isn’t easy to take apart and “wouldn’t really recommend it” as the transistors in it are epoxied to a heat sink and is better left alone.
      4. About 4:40 in the afternoon I thought I would just bypass some of the circuitry by cutting a wire and moving it to a different power source. The result of doing that is that now my ice maker is working and the lights/dispenser are working in the door. I thought I also had fixed the light issue inside the fridge but to my disappointment the lights quit same as before. Powering off the Fridge and re-powering bring back the lights……..
      4a. However this morning my ice bucket was full! The Ice Dispenser is really almost a stand alone unit in these Fridges…..I found a site on the Internet where a guy had moved one to a Deep Freeze and he keeps his Freezer full of ice.
      5. The Defrost portion also isn’t working automatically yet so I put it into manual defrost by pushing the Celsius/Fahrenheit button then pushing the power at the same time…..holding them in for a few seconds..picking option 7……wait until the second window turns to a 02 or just wait 20 minutes for it to come out of the Diagnostics Mode automatically. (I may end up putting a old style timer like an old fridge and bypass the electronic board altogether??)

      That’s it for now….will post more if I find out anything more.
      I would rather not post how I cut the wire yet as I may have a better way. This is gonna work perfectly for me the way it is as I have this unit in my garage….shop.

    • Peter Andersen

      See the 3 holes to the left….when this relay is energized it supplies power from the contact on the right to the top one. When it is in the idle state it is just turned off with nothing on the bottom hole… a basic on-off switch for one light.

      The 2 right holes are hooked to the 12VDC power turning it on and off……when measuring the power on a relay if it is turned on you will have both 12V on one terminal and zero on the other. If you are getting same voltage on both pins the relay isn’t energized.
      The capacitor that is mentioned in this Article filters the pulsating DC voltage to a flat DC Voltage……the relays have a really hard time keeping fully closed if the DC voltage is wavering. That Flat DC voltage supplies all 5 relays.

      The capacitors like “C21” can go bad and I have replaced many in my Career……but it is usually always the Electrolytic ones (cans) that go. The capacitors like the C35 Blue one are extremely rare to fail!

      As a general rule the Electrolytic goes and puts pressure on other electronics such as Diodes.Transistors, etc and then they die. Or a Solder connection goes bad from poor soldering or too much heat on the component.

  • Leo

    Thanks Steve! I replaced the relay and capacitor (noted in your article) about ten days ago, and the problem I was having with the condenser fan seems to be fixed… The parts cost me about $13, other than that just my time to remove and replace the components. Thanks a bunch for sharing, you saved me a bunch of money with this information, thank you!

  • I can’t believe it…it worked!!! Thanks for writing this post and saving me from buying a new fridge. $40 worth of parts and tools vs. $2,000 for a new fridge! Amazing.

  • John S

    Steve,,, I was all excited but then hit a roadblock. When I pulled out the control board to being the repair (I had ordered the capacitor and relay) it was totally different. My refrigerator is the same model, KitchenAid KSCS25FTMS00, but the control board was labeled EECON VCC3115609. Cannot find any information on the control board. Looks like I am buying a new refrigerator. Thanks for your information,,,,, looks like it would have worked well.

  • Hi, AHall. No, you shouldn’t need anything else when soldering. And yes, I suspect this fill will address all those problems!

  • Lou Pernia

    THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU 🙂 the mother board repair you walked me through about 2 years ago is working great 🙂 HUGE thanks for saving our family a couple of thousand $; headache now is replacing the water line to filter unit; of COURSE NO SERVICE MANUAL to be found and Sears no help at all; have repaired/spliced water line several times but it is old and deteriorated and new pin holes develop after splicing it; best option IMO would be replace the entire line BUT no manual and can’t get my hands in side far enough to unhook it from where it goes into filter housing and replace w/o taking the entire face and back apart; open to ANY suggestions and advice……………….

  • Miles

    Shortly after 10 days the freezer failed again due to ice build-up and lack of auto-defrosting. Exchanged the the control board inside the fridge side behind the temp display. No effect. Could get the fridge into diagnostic mode ( F/C button and an/off) and option 7 sends it into defrost. Will replace the remaining 3 relays tomorrow since the number 2 from the top turns the condenser fan on while evap fan, compressor, cond fan have to turn off while the defrost heater is on. Checked the wiring diagram but it’s not helpful in identifying the role of each of the four relays.