Arris TM822G Cable and Telephony Modem

Review: Arris TM822G DOCSIS 3.0 8×4 Ultra-High Speed Telephony Cable Modem 79

Arris TM822 ReviewTo lease, or not to lease. That’s the question for anyone who gets their high speed Internet through Comcast Xfinity. Literally millions of Comcast customers (over 18MM, to be exact) are paying an extra $7 per month to rent a modem from the cable company, and if you’re unsure whether or not you’re one of them, then I’d be willing to bet you $7 that you are.

Admittedly, there are some benefits to coughing up the monthly $7 fee to Comcast. First, if your modem breaks, they’ll replace it for free. Second, if your modem becomes outdated, they’ll swap it our for an upgraded one for free. So, if those two benefits are worth $7 a month to you, then go ahead and keep on renting.

Me? I’m a cheapskate frugal. Thinking back on my cable modem ownership (and checking my Comcast account), it seems I’ve owned three cable modems over the past 12 years. My first was a Thompson RCA DCM 235 DOCSIS 1.0. The term “DOCSIS” is an acronym that stands for “Data Over Cable Service Interface Specification,” which simply refers to the type of technology used to send Internet “stuff” over cable TV lines. My original first-generation cable modem worked fine for years, but when Comcast started supporting the DOCSIS 2.0 technology on their network (which allowed for faster and more reliable Internet service), I upgraded my modem to a Linksys BEFCMU10 v4 to take advantage. I used the Linksys without issues until April 2012, when Comcast called to inform me that in order to take advantage of their most recent network upgrades, I’d need to upgrade to a newer DOCSIS 3.0 modem. That’s also when I decided to ditch my local telephone provider and switch my phones over to Comcast Voice, meaning I’d need to replace my cable modem anyway for one that supported telephone in addition to Internet. So, after reading some online reviews about the latest and greatest cable modems, and talking to some Comcast technicians, I purchased an Arris TM822G on Amazon for $59.95 (with free shipping and no tax).

Arris TM822G Cable and Telephony Modem

Arris TM822G Cable and Telephony Modem

Over the past 12 years, on average, I paid no more than $70 for each of the three cable modems I purchased. So if I take 12 months times $7 times 12 years, that equals $1,008 — and if I subtract $210 (3 modems times $70 each), that means I’ve saved close to $800 in modem rental fees over the past 12 years. And since each cable modem has paid for itself in less than a year, and none of them have ever broken before I’ve needed to upgrade them voluntarily, I still believe that purchasing your own modem is the right way to go.

I would have written a review on this modem back in April 2012, when I first bought it. However, I forgot one very important step when purchasing the TM822G:

I neglected to check Comcast’s Approved Devices List to verify that the TM822G was on the list.

In my defense, I never even imagined it wouldn’t be. Arris manufactures the modems that Comcast leases to its customers, so it never occurred to me that they wouldn’t support one of Arris’ most highly rated, fastest, and feature-rich modems — especially when a Comcast tech specifically recommended the TM822G to me as (and I quote) “the best.” But, to my dismay, the TM822G wasn’t supported by Comcast, so in order to switch over to their voice service last April (which saved me a bunch on my monthly phone bill), I was forced to pay the $7 monthly fee to rent an Arris TG862G instead, until they eventually got around to including the TM822G on their approved devices list. Finally, in September 2012, Comcast announced support for the TM822G, so I was able to return the rented modem and start using my own, which had been sitting… sad, lonely, unused, and unloved… in a box under my desk for months.

Without turning this post into a rant, suffice it to say that switching from the leased modem to my owned one didn’t go smoothly. It took two full days of constant phone calls and online chats with Comcast tech support, some posts in their support forum, and an in-person visit to a Comcast store, to finally get it all working properly. But, once all the wrinkles were ironed out, I was able to focus on an honest evaluation of the Arris’ TM822G modem without Comcast’s crappy customer service clouding the issue.

Quite simply, the TM822G is nothing more than a cable / EMTA (phone) modem. It’s not a wireless access point, it’s not a router, it’s not a gateway… which is exactly what I want in a cable modem. Keeping my wireless router and access points separate from my cable modem gives me far more flexibility over my network setup, especially since I use third-party firmware (such as DD-WRT and Tomato) on my WiFi routers and access points. And even though history has shown that I haven’t needed to do so often, having it separate also allows me to swap out the modem as necessary, without losing all the configuration options on my router. That’s exactly what I did when putting the TM822G into service. It took less than 5 minutes to physically disconnect the old modem and hook up the new one, without the need to take my internal network offline.

Speaking of connections, the Arris TM822G keeps things simple, with only five connections on the back: a power cable connector, an RJ-45 Ethernet port to connect to your router, a coax “F” connector to connect to the cable company, and two RJ-11 phone jacks to connect up to two telephone lines (technically, it’s actually one RJ-14 and one RJ-11). There’s also a reset button (which you’ll need a paper clip to press when the 14th Comcast support agent of the day asks you to press it, over… and over.. and over…)

The TM822G only has one available accessory: a backup battery to keep the modem (and your phone lines) running run the event of a power outage. I decided not to install it, however, for two reasons. First, I already plug all my network devices into a large battery backup unit, which only has to run long enough to wait for the generator to kick on. Second, I connect my modem, router, and main switch to that battery backup unit via a remote control Baytech power strip, which allows me to kill and restore power to any of those devices remotely — including via a Linux shell script that pings a number of sites to see whether everything’s working ok, and then automagically logs into the Baytech and reboots the modem and router if I’m offline (which fixes the issue more than 90% of the time).

Where the TM822G shines, as would be appreciated by former First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt, is “speed… hot, nasty, bad-a$$ speed.” It supports up to 8 bonded channels for downstream connections (providing for a theoretical max download speed of 343 Mbps), and 4 bonded channels for upstream connections (yielding a theoretical max upload speed of 122 Mbps). In actuality, with Comcast’s top tier of residential service, I get around 35 Mbps down, and 5 Mbps up. UPDATE! Comcast upped their speed for my service tier in April 2013, so now I’m getting just under 50 MBps down and almost 12 Mbps up:

That’s at least 10 25 Mbps more “down” than I was getting with my old DOCSIS 2.0 modem, and a couple more double the speed “up,” to boot. That’s still comfortably within the expansive capabilities of the TM822G, so if (when?) Comcast eventually decides to cough up more bandwidth (like they did in April), the TM822G will be able to handle it.

In addition to raw speed, the TM822G also shines when it comes to specifications compliance. It supports IPv6, PacketCable 1.0 and 1.5, SIP (according to RFC2161), encoded speech codecs G.711, G.726, G.728, and G.729E, and has T.38 fax relay support. If all that makes your eyes glaze over, just take my word that the TM822G has all the “goodies” to ensure that it won’t be outdated anytime soon (you can check the spec sheet for more geeky awesomeness). And to get all that for $59.95 is a steal.

Which brings me to the only bad news of this review:

You can’t buy an Arris TM822G for $59.95 any more.

I suppose it’s the law of supply and demand. When the TM822G wasn’t supported by Comcast, there was little demand, meaning retailers had to sell them for cheap if they wanted to sell them at all. But now that it is on Comcast’s list, and given that it’s the fastest, most highly rated, and one of the most reliable cable modems in a number of independent tests, the Amazon price is now closer to $190 and the eBay price is around $160. Even used, they’re going for between $80-$100 on eBay.

Warning: if you decide to buy one used, be very careful. If it was already provisioned (or set up) on the Comcast network by another customer, I’ve read horror stories online about trying to get them re-provisioned for your account.

Of course, this price jump isn’t Arris’ fault, but it does extend the break-even point for your $7 per month potential savings, which is something to keep in mind as you make that decision.

My decision is easy. At the price I paid for it back in April, and even at the price you’d probably have to pay for it today, this cable modem is a winner. So if you’re ready to stop coughing up $7 a month to Cabletown Comcast, the Arris TM822G is almost certainly going to last more than long enough to get you to a break even point.

  • Mike Craft

    Wow, after reading this, I can’t figure out what you are, I guess the best I can come up with is renaissance man :). This next quoted part is AWESOME, i have been in IT 15 years and I never think of it, SHAME on me, but on my list to do ASAP, hopefully FAR FEWER tech support calls from home when the “internet isn’t’ working” :). I have been writing Perl/KSH/TCL for almost 20, this sounds like fun!!

    Thanks for the review too, although I despise Comcast, I am a happy U-Verse customer, with their top tier service(18/3, and that is exactly what I get, ALWAYS, I have a bandwidth monitoring script because of all of the issues I had in the past with Comcast and Time Warner screwing me on bandwidth, and I always got credit back when I showed them how crappy my bandwidth really was half the time, why should I pay 100% of their top tier fee when I am not getting the bandwidth?), although I live in North KCMO, the first city that Google picked(we won some kind of contest) to completely run a private fiber network with Gb speeds and cable TV (I am thinking about moving to get to their phase I area :D): $120/mo for 1Gb (synchronous up/down I think!!) AND ALL cable TV??? Forgeddaboutit!

    This rocks:
    Second, I connect my modem, router, and main switch to that battery backup unit via a remote control Baytech power strip, which allows me to kill and restore power to any of those devices remotely — including via a Linux shell script that pings a number of sites to see whether everything’s working ok, and then automagically logs into the Baytech and reboots the modem and router if I’m offline (which fixes the issue more than 90% of the time)

    • I just added a new post that includes my setup and scripts for the remote power cycle. Feel free to steal and tweak for your needs, Mike! 🙂

    • June Helen

      Hi Mike, I picked up the new ARRIS TG862 from Comcast Store
      on Thursday. Am no guru. Have Comcast Triple Play. They took my
      existing modem which worked fine and gave me this new one. Well,
      after 2 days of trying unsuccessfully to get any phone dial tone or
      voice on my land line, I gave up. Read all the negative stuff about
      this company online. Am without any phone. Notice if anybody comes
      over with a cell phone, it goofs up their cell phone. I have no
      cell, just the landline, tv and internet service. Will return to CC
      store and return their ARRIS TG862 and hope to get my old modem
      back. Does anybody know why this modem killed my phone service? No
      dial tone, no sound. Cannot call out, people cannot call in. This
      is dangerous; what if emergency? Thanks for listening to my rant.
      June Helen

      • Sam

        if your phone was activated on old modem and you got new modem you will need to call the CDV phone activation again and ask them to activate your phone on the new modem because your no longer using the old modem, if u called the 800comcast ask the representative to give you CDV activation phone number and transfer the call to them within 15-20 min they will reactivate your phone from the old modem to the new modem

        • That was not an option a year ago, it has been since Jan 2015 tho

  • Mike Craft

    P.S. with U-Verse I am using their VOIP, but I have a brand new Ooma Telo and Ooma Linx (got on sale from Costco for $130 for both!) with two line capability (home and office lines) that I got the family for xmas, should save me $25/mo while I get 2 lines instead of my current one… and has AWESOME features and integration with Google Voice(VM transcription, access to VMs from the inet and sent to your cell, and so much more, oh yeah), pretty excited!

    • How’s that working out for you now, since Google got rid of Google Voice?

  • Doug Parrow

    Comcast indicates that it supports the TM822G (NCS) and TM822G (NIS), but I am unsure about the significance of the last three letters. The modem that I currently am leasing is a TM722G/CT. The modem sold on Amazon is listed as a TM822G/NA. Does that mean the one available through Amazon is not supported by Comcast?

    • The one sold through Amazon is the exact one I purchased, and it IS supported. I don’t believe the NCS and NIS letters are specific to the device, as I can find no reference to those model numbers and letters together, other than on the Comcast page. I believe Comcast is just staying that modem support NCS and NIS technologies (NCS is a variation of the Media Gateway Control Protocol (MGCP) signaling method to control endpoints, for example).

      • Doug Parrow

        Thanks, I’ll order one, relax, have several drinks, then begin the process of getting Comcast to recognize it.

  • Herbie Severe

    What is the best wireless router to use with the Arris TM822G?

    • Currently, I like the Cisco E4200. I buy them refurbished from the Cisco Home Store and then flash them with DD-WRT firmware. I’ll be posting a full review soon.

      • Herbie Severe

        Any links on exactly how to flash the router?

        • Yeah – check out the wiki entry for your router of choice at Be sure to follow the instructions closely, as installing the wrong version of the firmware could render your router useless. Also keep in mind that only the first version of the Cisco/Linksys E4200 is flashable. The E4200 V2 is not. Although, this is a great router even WITH the stock firmware, and there’s no need to change it unless you feel like tinkering. 🙂

          • Herbie Severe

            Well, I took a look at that wiki entry and I got got of scared to tell you the truth. I’m afraid that I might end up damaging my router. Have you posted any youtube video on how to flash the Cisco E4200? And do you have a condensed step by step instructions that was created by you. Please help. By the way, both the Arris TM822G modem and the cisco E4200 router are great products.

          • This post should help, Herbie!

    • NOW the best is the Netgear N150 (WNR1000 v3 – updated to v4 8/2014) , this one is also great for WWDRT and Tomato upgrades

  • Herbie Severe

    Success!!! Thank you Steve..

  • What do you have to do to get the Modem to work with Comcast? Did you have to take it to their office to have it addressed to your account or just plug it in and call them? Thinking about buying (don’t like paying $7 a month) but not sure how complicated it will be to set up. (I use my own wireless router). Thanks for any help you can provide.

    • Just call them and read them the serial number. They provision (configure) it to work on their end.

  • Thank you SO much, never expected a reply that quick. Great article with very useful information. Keep up the good work, it’s very much appreciated!

  • dave

    not much more than a rant of costs, then a note that most of the rant no longer applied.
    I was looking for a comparison from your old, or any other device.

    • Comparison is easy. My old device (a Linksys) was DOCSIS 2.0. This new Arris is a DOCSIS 3.0. No matter how much I may have liked my old modem (and I did like it), it would never be as fast on Comcast’s upgraded system as a DOCSIS 3.0. My Linksys didn’t support telephone service, this does. That’s pretty much it. 🙂

  • Ruth

    I’m so bummed!, price on this unit from amazon is now $160!
    after spending all day on phone w/ C.Cast, and researching
    online—then finding this great info! (thanks Steve!!)— I
    thought I was onto something I could commit to…Wrong :(….back
    to the drawing board….unless other model?

    • The general party line from Xfinity (no longer Comcast, in fact)is they accept pretty much ANY modem that is at least DOCSIS 3.0 or higher AND updated to latest available patching (for your particular brand choice)

  • Lorraine

    Steve, You could be my twin, because you were where I am
    now. I’ve been on the phone with COMCAST for nearly 2 hours trying
    to switch my phone service from AT&T to COMCAST. The newest
    wrinkle – they said they are going to charge me $33 for a
    technician to come out to wire something. I want to be able to use
    my old land line handsets on the new phone service. Is that what
    you did and did you have to have someone come out to re-wire
    something with the old phone jacks?

    • RANDY

      Lorraine, I changed from AT&T to COMCAST. Be sure you plug your telephone line into jack T1. This is the left jack not the right one. The right jack is for a second telephone like a fax machine and requires a special setup from COMCAST. My problem occurred regarding my GE burglar alarm. COMCAST reversed the polarity of the telephone connections. This did not affect my existing telephones, only the GE unit. I had to pay $130 for the alarm company to come out and switch the wires to the alarm unit. Other than than I just plugged the T1 jack into a wall telephone jack just like AT&T. Hope this helps.

  • Todd

    Just checked, this modem is now selling for $239 on Amazon. Seems like price gouging to me… Rediculous

    • What rapist was charging that!? Not a legitamte source, even then.

  • Dave

    Hey Steve,

    I have the ArrisTM822 and using Comcast as well. We’ve had it for a year or so. My problem is that randomly, but pretty predictably every morning, the Arris seems to shut down, lose signal, whatever you want to call it (I’ve never actually seen it reboot and turn off and then back on so I’m not really sure what happens. The net effect is that we lose internet and phone.) It will eventually come back up on it’s own but not quickly. (In the morning when this happens it’s actually a good alarm clock as my girls always walk out of their rooms and yell, “Wireless is out” 😉

    Anyway, any thoughts on what might be going on? Do I just have a bum modem and need a new one? FWIW I rent this from Comcast and it does NOT have a back up battery.



    • Hi, Dave. Could be a bad modem, or could be bad connection. In either case, it’s Comcast’s responsibility to address, since you’re renting the modem from them. Get your money’s worth by calling their customer service dept (1-800-COMCAST) and have them send you a replacement, or service the line.

      • INSTALL the battery, it’s free from any store, that will prevent the shutdown, because Xfinity (used to be called comcast) softboots your device once per day, every day and re-flashes the device if it cannot get a confirmation from the modem itself, so since the abttery backs up the modem memory… info is present to give the servers, so a hardboot (like a PXE image boot for Windows machines in an AD environment) and a reflash is performed on the modem, every day – but usually at 2 or 4am your time. Odd that irt would be at a normal morm wake up time though. Oh wait, sure, not odd becuase the internal clock does not run to keep the current TX intact without THE BATTERY.

        Ya, get the battery.

  • Amit Singh

    Hi Steve,

    Your review motivated me to buy a used TM822G. I got it provisioned today which took about 3 hours on the phone and talking to about six Comcast staff! The reason was a dropped call and some Comcast staff not doing their job carefully in noting down the serial number, CMAC address, etc. Now it is working. Thank you for the detailed description.

    • Glad to hear you were able to beat Comcast tech support into submission. 🙂

    • Oh yes, in EVERY case we must always demand a service person repeat back ANYTHING said that is of utmost importance: contact number, name, address, last 4 SS (stupid), MAC addy, serial number, etc ALL must be repeated by the service person in order to confirm you know they heard you correctly. And do it later in the conversation, as some service techs a real good at short term memory repeating, as most of us, but if they dont write it down, later in the convo you will know if they failed that test.

  • Ruth

    Hey Steve~ I too wanted to purchase my own Modem to get away from paying Comcast the $7 a mo….NOW, $8 a mo.!!! Needing a Telephony type modem….coulda..shoulda bought one a couple years ago for around $90 from Radio Shack…and YES it had telephony! Now there outrageous $250 and more!**** Currently: After some techno-issues with Comcast they told me I should upgrade to a Gateway, they sent me one along with a box to return my current Modem; an Arris model: TM502G…telling me I would most likely be experiencing more problems “After the first of the year”. The gateway they sent me is an ‘Xfinity’ Gateway with (I think) model #TC8305C. What I’m not sure about, is DO I Really Need to switch these out or not? or does Comcast just want my old modem back to update its internal hardware and sell on Amazon for $300!!!!

    • And only 1 year later, now 10.00 per month for the same goddam modem, where nothing internally has changed.

  • Ruth

    PS, please notify me… (I forgot to check the boxes)

  • Fred

    I just went through this process, successfully, but with a lot of cursing directed at Comcast.

    I decided to purchase a modem right after paying my last cable bill, which was quite high. International long distance? Texting? No—a call to Comcast uncovered several rate hikes, including an increase to $8/mo for rent on the old cable modem.

    Step 1 was to threaten to leave for Verizon and drive the services and costs down to the bare minimum. That saved almost a third from the monthly bill.

    Step 2 was to purchase the Arris TM822. At this point, it was less about saving money than it was about not giving Comcast even an extra penny. I purchased the TM822A for around $70. The TM822A is identical to the TM822G without a battery. I also use a hefty UPS for my LAN, so the puny battery in the G isn’t of any use to me.

    Step 3 was to get Comcast to provision TM822, and this was a nightmare. The self-activation process didn’t work. Self-activation should be your first priority, but don’t be too optimistic. I spent almost a week of daily phone calls asking Comcast to fix it. None of the tier 1 techs could get it provisioned, and Comcast failed to call me back within 24–72 hours with tier 2 support, as they said they would. My strategy shifted to issuing daily complaints that my phone and internet didn’t work, which was true as long as my modem was attached. Finally, Comcast sent tech support to my home, and with the right phone calls the home techs arranged to get the TM822A provisioned and running in less than thirty minutes.

    Everything is working great now, and wget says that the TM822 downloads at the current 25 Mbps Comcast limit.

    • You mean your subscribed limit, as they can go to 300MB down , 50 up since Jan 2015

  • Myrna

    Hi hopefully you still comment on this post. I’m tired of paying $8 (yes that’s what they charge now) for my modem and want to buy one. So I’m reviewing comcast list to see which one to buy. I’m not a tech person by any means so this stuff confuses me but I do want to buy one that will work, so I’m trying to review the different ones they have listed. I noticed you used the Arris TM862G and wanted to know what you thought of it. Would you recommend buy a modem/router combo? I don’t need the modem to work on telephone lines (unless of course it’s needed for my internet). And if I were to purchase the modem you have and buy separate router what is “flash” mean? I’m so confused, any suggestion you can part would be much appreciated.

  • I was reading your post and wanted to just say that the Battery for this device would not provide Data during a power failure it is solely for eMTA purposes to provide Voice/E911 service during a power outage.

  • kb

    So I just jumped through all the hoops to “Own” a modem and get it activated. I purchased it from eBay, it was the Arris TM822. As soon as it arrived I plugged it in and got everything up and running without difficulty. I thought everything was good. I waited a few days to make sure everything continues to run and returned the rented modem to my local Comcast store. The customer service lady was unable to remove it from my account because they did not have my new serial number. I was instructed to call when I returned home and it would be removed from my account.

    This is when things got tricky. I spoke with several people at Comcast that couldn’t help me. Then I connected to the telephone department and the man told me that it is impossible to own a modem and continue to have Comcast telephone service. I explained that it was the Comcast website that directed me toward which modem to buy. I also tried to explain to him that I was talking to him using the phone connected to the modem that he assured me would not work, he didn’t like that response. I decided not to argue and just call back, which is exactly what I did. I spoke with a woman in the billing department, she was very helpful, when she couldn’t change my account she contacted someone in the telephone department and we were on a 3-way call. I explained the situation again, and after about 15-20 minutes the issue was resolved and I am told that the $8/month rental fee has been removed.

    I have not gotten a bill yet to confirm, but based on the conversation I believe that the issue has been resolved.

    I will repost if I have any addition problems or updates.

  • Shirley W

    I have Comcast Triple play- internet, cable, phone. I’m sick of their escalating prices and the Comcast Tech guy suggested I purchase my own modem specifically the Arris TM722G. I found the Region Supply, LLC, on line which seems to be a well rated business to purchase a modem from. They sell both the TM722G and TM822G. I see my rented modem from Comcast is the TM822G- so why would the tech guy have specifically told me to purchase the TM722G? Which should I buy? And should I be concerned about all the posts reporting what a nightmare it was to get their purchased modem recognized by Comcast? I’m afraid I don’t have the stomach to spend time and numerous phone calls to get my modem working. HELP?!

    • kb

      I purchased a TM822G online, set up was easy and it worked fine. The hassle came when I tried to get them to remove the lease rental fee from my old equipment, I was told initially that it was no problem, then when I actually called to remove it the man said that is impossible and if I was using my own modem it would work for a while then it would be disabled by comcast. I called back once again and they did take care of it, I had to work with someone in billing and someone in the telephone department to make it work. It was a hassle but in the end I am glad I decided to purchase the modem.

  • Bill Shurtd

    I wish I had NEVER gotten this Arris TM822G Modem. As soon as the tech installed it I lost my e-mail.I called Comcast for help again and again with NO results. Comcast help is Terrible. Then a supervisor came out and tried to get Comcast to fix my lost e-mail. He also had no luck. The loss of e-mail (I use Microsoft Outlook 2003) is not worth the unnoticeable increase in speed and the higher price.

    • Tony

      My daughter had a similar problem. Sometimes Comcast assigns a new email to your account when you get this telephony modem. Ask them what the primary email is on your account. If this does not help, sorry.

  • Butch

    Ah, I wish that comcast would upgrade their help, as they upgrade there services.. The tech help I got didn’t understand that the modem comes with a battery, so every time they ash me to turn off my modem it never really went off. I finally figured it out and took the battery out. It’s working now but my speeds both down and up are slower than what I had on my Surfboard mod: SB6120

  • A fan

    After verifying that Comcast supports personally purchased eMTA modems in my local area, I purchased an Arris TM822G from a reseller on eBay, going with one that promised a modem that worked with Comcast AND offered a return policy. I called Comcast when it arrived, and within about 20 minutes had it up and running. Comcast makes you talk to two people, one to get the internet working, and one to get the phone working. Both asked me where I’d acquired the modem, and I simply said “a reseller,” and that I didn’t recall the specific name. That satisfied them.

    I’m very happy with the modem, which replaces an all-in-one Cisco 9393 modem / wifi gateway that Comcast was renting me. I have signed up for the Blast! 105 Mbps down service, and with the Cisco, my max wired speed was ~120Mbps down, but it fluctuated greatly. Phone call quality also echoed a bit. With the new Arris, phone calls sound a bit better, and I am getting dependable wired speed of 126.15 Mbps down (upload still bites at 11.5 mbps). But the real reason I made the switch was for wifi. In getting a stand-alone modem and router, I could put the modem in my basement and my router on the main level. The net result is living room wifi speeds that are two to three times faster than they were (from ~30 Mbps to ~70-90 Mbps), and second floor wifi speeds that are twice as fast (from ~25 Mbps to ~60 Mbps). I purchased a Netgear Nighthawk AC1900 router which is amazing, as it offers fast 802.11n connections and is relatively future proof in supporting the new 802.11ac standard. I highly recommend the setup of TM822G + Nighthawk to anyone who’s on a faster speed tier with Comcast.

  • Larry

    I purchased my Arris TM822G about a week ago and added a wireless router, so far smooth sailing, it took 15 minutes for me to be up and running!
    My cable provider is Comcast
    My wireless router is made by Netgear/Nighthawk

  • Ben.

    What is the difference between the TM822G and the TM802G? Why is the TM802G not supported anymore by Comcast? I have the TM802G. Would love to figure out a Hack to make it look and act like a TM822G.

  • Trent

    Thanks for the info Im helping my aunt out to try to save money with comcast by purchasing the modem. I found Arris TM822G Touchstone® DOCSIS 3.0 at a,azon for $150 but I am not sure it has the right output because I cant see the back, though it does say telephony. Also you mentioned 2 days of efforts you had to put forth in order for it to work, so what exactly did you have to do, is it not compatible on its own right out of the box?

    • You have to call Comcast and have them “provision” it. Like I said in the article, those 2 days were spent talking to Comcast people trying to find the right person to “flip the switch” to allow it to work. All ISPs have to set up certain things on their end to allow the device onto their network. Otherwise, anyone could just buy a device and hijack free Internet. 🙂

  • Steve, I have made several changes to my Communist Cast account recently. I got rid of VoIP and went with a Magic Jack and got rid of their DVR. I have a rental Modem from them which just so happens to be an Arris TM 822G. I am going to buy my own modem and save another $10.00 per mo. I like the modem but don’t need the VoIP feature. I know I need DOCSIS 3.0. Technology and I don’t want to sacrifice speed. I’d like to find something for under $100.00 what would you suggest?

    • Hi, Timothy. You might want to consider the DOCSIS 3.0 Motorola Surfboards I’ve seen at Costco lately!

  • Mary

    Steve, just read your article and all the response posts. Great article! I spent the weekend working with comcast as I installed my own arris 822g modem and with a lot of patience and phone to ear, my modem is up and working! Hooray! Now, it looks like my net gear router is not compatible with my new arris. I see a couple of comments recommending the nighthawk by net gear. Do you endorse that or have any other routers you recommend with the 822g? I am currently on the internet package with 25mbps. Thanks again for the helpful article.

    • Hi, Mary. The Nighthawk is a fantastic router, and is absolutely compatible with the Arris. If Comcast is telling you otherwise, they’re misinformed! Make sure they put your modem into bridge mode, so that your router is the one that gets the WAN IP address (just read that to them — they’ll know what it means… and if they don’t, ask for a different support rep). 🙂

      • Mary

        Thanks Steve, now I wonder if this is the case for my current Netgear WGR 614 router. Maybe the reason it doesn’t work is because of this bridge mode status. Honestly I’ve been learning A LOT about modems and router this past month, but I can never seem to get ahead of the learning curve. Thanks for your help – again!

  • The rep who signed me up for Comcast gave me the option of a gift card or owning my own modem. I chose to own the modem, but I was given a combination modem/router with telephony and charged $8/month for the first three months and then $10/month the last two months. I had nothing but problems with their device, so I bought the TM822G and an Asus RT-RC68U router which has fixed all my issues. I wish I had taken the gift card and bought the modem and router sooner instead of being charged five months of rental fees after being misled into thinking I was going to own the modem they gave me.

    The good news is that I was able to get the 822G activated and provisioned without a single phone call. I used online activation to start. After I did that the internet worked fine but the phone didn’t work, so I used the Comcast chat and they were able to get the phone working. I took the old combo device to a service center and turned it in and was told I should call support with the serial number of the new modem so it would get updates. Instead of calling, I used the chat to get it provisioned by giving them the make, model, serial number, CMAC address and MTA-Mac address. I assume they can copy and paste the numbers directly from the chat window which makes errors less likely. You also don’t have to listen to elevator music and get transferred around to different people like you would on the phone. The 822G is now listed under my account as SUBOWNEDWIRELESS TM822G. I assume since it is marked that way they won’t try to say I was renting it if I ever cancel service. Of course, I don’t understand the wireless part since I’ve never heard of a wireless modem.

    I read somewhere that you should block your modem’s ip address in your router’s firewall because cable modems are vulnerable to cross-site scripting attacks that can cause the modem to be factory reset. The ip address of the 822G is

    • Yes, do that. On the newtwork INSIDE you will always see – youy can never change that.

  • Eddie

    I have been using Comcast for cable TV and Internet service for many years. 3 weeks ago I added Comcast Voice to get their Triple Play promotion. I have my own router & modem, a Netgear R7000 and a Motorola SB6120. I’m using the rented modem/router from Comcast for telephone service only. The cost for rental is $10 per month now. It was one big mess getting the phone service together using their equipment. First someone at Comcast insisted that if I use their modem/router for phone service I had to use it for Internet also. Of course that’s not true but why don’t all of their customer service reps know that? It also took almost 2 weeks to get my old Verizon phone number ported to Comcast when they said it would take a couple of days. Anyway I am thinking about getting a Arris TM822G so I can pay Comcast as less as possible. My concern is that it will take forever to get Comcast to connect my own modem to their system. BTW, they are selling refurbished TM822G with battery for under $90 and the A model for under $60 on ebay. I wonder if a newer Arris VoIP model will be available soon since the TM822G has been available for a few years now.

  • Steve, upgraded to the TriplePlay on my Comcast, I opted out using their gateway and will purchase my own device. At this point, I am deciding between the Arris TM822G and the Arris TG862G. I am leaning toward the 822G and use my own router. I have my monitored alarm system on a landline (which I am hoping to drop the landline service). I have searched about the capability of the telephone line of the alarm to the 822G in the second phone port. (I did see an earlier posting about someone using a GE alarm system, mine is a DSC alarm system). My question: Can I connect the alarm phone line to the 2nd port on the 822G? for that matter on the 862G?

    • Joe: You can, but if you have a DSC alarm, I’d recommend using an EnvisaLink to allow your system to be monitored via the Internet, like I wrote about back in 2011:

      • Steve, appreciate the quick response. Excellent suggestion, this would also allow me to reduce the cost of my monitoring service while giving me the smartphone access to the system. BTW, I checked out your blog and immediately found another solution from one of your postings….The TPMS issue, my tire shop quoted that it would cost about $120 to fix only one tire. Thank you for being a DIY person and sharing your findings with the rest of us.

    • The dumbest mistake anyone can make, and any good security tech will tell you this, NEVER have “all of your eggs in one basket”, meaning: Always use a different company for your monitored alarm line.

  • Lonnie

    Hi Steve,
    Love your blog. the info on the arris tm822g was very helpful. However I ran into a problem with self-owned modem and Comcast. I purchase the Arris TM722G and after some difficulties was successful in getting it provisioned and working with Comcast. It ran fine for about two weeks when one Friday morning it stopped working. When I went and looked at it only the green power light was on. I recycled it and the green power light came on and then the DS, US, and online lights came on with the online light green and the DS and US lights blinking yellow. That went on for a while then all went out but the power light. I called Comcast and they tried to contact the modem and were unable to see it. A technician from Comcast came to the house and tried to get the modem working, but was unable and said that the lights were not cycling correctly and the modem was broken. He installed another Arris TM722G owned by Comcast and got the phone back up working. Not wanting to lease their modem and having read your blog, I ordered a TM822G Arris modem from Amazon. When it came, I plugged it in and the light pattern that it started with was the same as the “broken” TM722G. I called Comcast to have them install it but they had the same problem seeing it as they did with the old TM722G that I had replaced. The cycling of the lights on the Arris TM722 modem from Comcast is sequential and different from the “broken” modems. Do you have a clue to what is going on? Are the modems that are cycling as above faulty? I’m unsure how to proceed, please help.

    • Eddie Hicks

      I’m not Steve but I’ll tell you my experience. I purchased a refurbished TM822G on ebay about a month ago. I removed the Comcast rental modem and connected mine. I then called Comcast tech using my cell phone to have my modem connected to the service. I spent about an hour with a lady who was nice but spoke broken English. No matter what we did she couldn’t get my modem to work on Comcast and convinced me that I had a defective modem. I was quite upset with the ebay vendor and was going to send the modem back first thing next day. I reconnected the Comcast rental modem and guess what? Yep, no phone service. I was told there would not be a problem with reconnecting their modem. So I called back to tech service and this time got a guy I assume was an American but anyway spoke clear English. I explained what had happen with the modem I purchased and needed to get the Comcast modem working again. He asked me if I wanted to try connecting the modem I purchased again first. I figured it would be a waste of time but I said OK. About 10 minutes later we had my modem working perfectly and it’s still working great. If he had not ask me to try my modem again I would have sent a good modem back to the vendor and probably would have had issues with him. I guess my point is that there are probably a significant number of tech service employees at Comcast that really don’t know what they are doing. Even some of those who come to your house my be inexperienced. I would try several different tech before giving up on the modem.

      • This remonds me of the eaerly days and growing pains of Crystal Hosting (Now a huge conglom in Canada that owns over 100 ISPs and resellers – they actually own the American company that Xfinity sub-contracts for cable trenching work!)

  • Final statement thoughts: In a way, because since 2015, the modem rental price is now 10.00 per month

    Also, mentioned later – U-verse has WAY higher offerings than just 18/3

  • googly thrombosis

    I called Comcast to confirm the Arris TM822G was compatible, they confirmed it was. I purchased one from Region Supply “Seller Refurbished” for $65. Comcast refused to connect it as a privately owned modem because this particular modem, by serial number, had previously been owned by Comcast and rented to another customer. I was told by Comcast tech support that a modem can only be sold once, after the initial purchase other customers can use that same modem only if they continue to pay a monthly lease fee. They said I would have to purchase a new one ($145) for Comcast to connect it and remove the monthly lease fee. Terrible policy from Comcast. A supervisor confirmed this policy. I had been with AT&T for many years, will never go back to AT&T due to unacceptable bad customer service also.

  • John

    Five months after owning the modem, Comcast has noticed that they aren’t charging me a modem rental fee and are going to start with the next bill. It must be nice to have a business that can charge someone a rental fee for something they own. What’s next are they going to try to charge me a rental fee for the televisions, phones, and computers that I own? They’ve got away with this practice for years and the government has done nothing, so I guess it’s true that they are in bed with the government.

    I’m glad I saved the chat transcript from when I had them activate the modem. I will give them the reference number and if they can’t find it, I will paste it into the chat and insist that I own the modem as much now as I did five months ago and insist that they take the fee off my bill.

    • Yikes. Glad you caught that, and good luck getting them to take the fee off!

  • Micah: Yep! You’ve got it. That’s how mine is set up. The modem connects to a wireless router. The router acts as the WiFi access point and the gatewy for all the devices on your home network.

  • Lisatee

    WIth rapid developments coming in delivery of cable, I still think you are better going with your provider’s equipment. I just view it as part of the cost. I LOVE Comcast’s X1.

    • Hi, Lisatee. There are certainly benefits to using Comcast’s equipment, including replacement when it fails, upgrades when needed, etc. For me personally, it “pencils” in my favor to own my own stuff. For others such as yourself, it might not! 🙂

      • John

        This modem should be able to handle any upgrades for the foreseeable future. Unfortunately, I can’t afford to replace it if something goes wrong. I thought I was going to have to go back to renting when the power went off and on 17 times one morning while I was at work and it failed to load several sites consistently for the next week. Resets didn’t work, Comcast sending a signal to the modem didn’t work. Fortunately, I figured out how to do a factory reset of the modem. It wasn’t in the manual, but holding the reset button for 30 seconds did the trick and all is well. I think it’s supposed to work after 20 seconds but my wife had tried that and it didn’t work.